Topics

[SergentEng] (unknown)

Ross Dando
 

Alan,
I have recently been swapping out all my Kadee couplers. From my point of view you are taking on a similar adventure. First, buy a bulk pack of both the narrow shank with the boxes as well as a bulk pack of compatible shank. This way you will have what ever the conversion calls for. So far I have had to ream out the hole, thin the shank and shim the shank to get various conversions completed. Just like any coupler you would use the conversion is as good or as bad as you make it. I have actually ended up carving off a compatible shank box to install a narrow shank box because once I completed the converting it just didn't look right. Some cars you have to be very careful not to break anything, specifically the Kadee cars are a pain to get the coupler box off the car frame. 
Of you have any questions just let me know, my adventure continues!
Ross


On Feb 5, 2014, at 6:58 PM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:

 

I model Accurail 4600 cu ft covered grain hoppers,Atlas 2 bay cvd hoppers to a very small degree,Intermountain 4750 cu ft & a few of their cylindrical cvd hoppers. Most of my tank cars are from Athearn,with a few from Atlas& Walthers. Boxcars are mostly Athearn. I have 1 72' centerbeam from Walthers& an 89' auto carrier also from Walthers. I'm looking to install Compatible shank SBE couplers on most of my freight cars&diesel loco's with standard E couplers too. SE couplers will go on all my tank cars.
I didn't mean to ramble here,but are there certain cars from the builders I've mentioned or locomotives that require a certain coupler? I forgot to mention that all locomotives are GP-38s,GP-40-2's from Atlas with SD-40-2's & two GP-35's from Kato. Oh there's 1 GP40-2 from Athearn. I remember when Frank 1st diecast the standard E coupler,when put on an Accurail cvd grain hopper,it seemed as though the coupler was a little snug fitting on the post in the coupler,(draft gear),box. This is why I'm concerned. Am thinking about taking my 1st try at assembling the144 Compatible Shank SBE couplers.
Would appreciate all input from modelers on this subject.
Thank you,all.
Sincerely'Alan Hummel
Bremen,IN

Alan Hummel
 

Sounds like a mess Ross,but I've had more messes than I can remember in my time with Kadees. Shimming to get the proper height mostly. Then some of the cars would wobble. I started with Frank Sergent when he was still making couplers out of white metal. We had many phone conversations. Then he finally diecast the E coupler. But since I model mostly modern era,from the '80's to present day,I needed shelf couplers,but Frank said there was just no call for them. I stayed with the Kadees until the shelf couplers came out. I made a $500 order but that was at the time when problems developed with the investmant cast couplers. This went for 11/2 years before I cancelled my order. Then finally&thankfully Sergent solved that problem&everything seems to be back on line again. I hope I can put the couplers together.(?) I plan to purchase all the assembly tools needed for that purpose to make it as easy as possible. I have " helping hands alligator clips&magnifiers of various types,so am hoping things will go smoothly. My eyes water badly & am afraid even with magnification,it might not go as smoothly as I hope. Are there any conversions that might require the extended shank length such as with SD-40-2's? I plan to xpand my track radiuses to probably 26"-28". I've had 22"&19" on my 4'x8',but am in the process of cleaning out our basement which should allow about 12' in widthx50' in length. I'll only use small widths though,absolutely no more than 4'.
I thought I might buy a few assembled coupler packs to try different installations,thinking that might also help me to see what type couplers I need with what cars,so I know what to&what not to buy in bulk. It's only a guess,but I'm thinking since the SBE couplers are offered in bulk since they're now entirely diecast,that the SE couplers might not be too far out until they become fully diecast also.(?)
Thanks again for your great information Ross.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel
Bremen,IN


On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 9:20 PM, Ross wrote:
 
Alan,
I have recently been swapping out all my Kadee couplers. From my point of view you are taking on a similar adventure. First, buy a bulk pack of both the narrow shank with the boxes as well as a bulk pack of compatible shank. This way you will have what ever the conversion calls for. So far I have had to ream out the hole, thin the shank and shim the shank to get various conversions completed. Just like any coupler you would use the conversion is as good or as bad as you make it. I have actually ended up carving off a compatible shank box to install a narrow shank box because once I completed the converting it just didn't look right. Some cars you have to be very careful not to break anything, specifically the Kadee cars are a pain to get the coupler box off the car frame. 
Of you have any questions just let me know, my adventure continues!
Ross

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 5, 2014, at 6:58 PM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:

 
I model Accurail 4600 cu ft covered grain hoppers,Atlas 2 bay cvd hoppers to a very small degree,Intermountain 4750 cu ft & a few of their cylindrical cvd hoppers. Most of my tank cars are from Athearn,with a few from Atlas& Walthers. Boxcars are mostly Athearn. I have 1 72' centerbeam from Walthers& an 89' auto carrier also from Walthers. I'm looking to install Compatible shank SBE couplers on most of my freight cars&diesel loco's with standard E couplers too. SE couplers will go on all my tank cars.
I didn't mean to ramble here,but are there certain cars from the builders I've mentioned or locomotives that require a certain coupler? I forgot to mention that all locomotives are GP-38s,GP-40-2's from Atlas with SD-40-2's & two GP-35's from Kato. Oh there's 1 GP40-2 from Athearn. I remember when Frank 1st diecast the standard E coupler,when put on an Accurail cvd grain hopper,it seemed as though the coupler was a little snug fitting on the post in the coupler,(draft gear),box. This is why I'm concerned. Am thinking about taking my 1st try at assembling the144 Compatible Shank SBE couplers.
Would appreciate all input from modelers on this subject.
Thank you,all.
Sincerely'Alan Hummel
Bremen,IN


Mike Van Hove
 

Alan, Ross & others.

I can't help stating the benefits of owning the reamer Sergent sells.  It has saved my bacon, several times in changing to the Sergent couplers.  Just one warning, be careful in handling it, it's extremely sharp (a good thing).

I have no connection to Sergent, other then as a satisfied customer.

Mike Van Hove

On Feb 5, 2014, at 8:20 PM, Ross wrote:

 

Alan,
I have recently been swapping out all my Kadee couplers. From my point of view you are taking on a similar adventure. First, buy a bulk pack of both the narrow shank with the boxes as well as a bulk pack of compatible shank. This way you will have what ever the conversion calls for. So far I have had to ream out the hole, thin the shank and shim the shank to get various conversions completed. Just like any coupler you would use the conversion is as good or as bad as you make it. I have actually ended up carving off a compatible shank box to install a narrow shank box because once I completed the converting it just didn't look right. Some cars you have to be very careful not to break anything, specifically the Kadee cars are a pain to get the coupler box off the car frame. 
Of you have any questions just let me know, my adventure continues!
Ross


On Feb 5, 2014, at 6:58 PM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:

 

I model Accurail 4600 cu ft covered grain hoppers,Atlas 2 bay cvd hoppers to a very small degree,Intermountain 4750 cu ft & a few of their cylindrical cvd hoppers. Most of my tank cars are from Athearn,with a few from Atlas& Walthers. Boxcars are mostly Athearn. I have 1 72' centerbeam from Walthers& an 89' auto carrier also from Walthers. I'm looking to install Compatible shank SBE couplers on most of my freight cars&diesel loco's with standard E couplers too. SE couplers will go on all my tank cars.
I didn't mean to ramble here,but are there certain cars from the builders I've mentioned or locomotives that require a certain coupler? I forgot to mention that all locomotives are GP-38s,GP-40-2's from Atlas with SD-40-2's & two GP-35's from Kato. Oh there's 1 GP40-2 from Athearn. I remember when Frank 1st diecast the standard E coupler,when put on an Accurail cvd grain hopper,it seemed as though the coupler was a little snug fitting on the post in the coupler,(draft gear),box. This is why I'm concerned. Am thinking about taking my 1st try at assembling the144 Compatible Shank SBE couplers.
Would appreciate all input from modelers on this subject.
Thank you,all.
Sincerely'Alan Hummel
Bremen,IN



Alan Hummel
 

Mike thank you for the input on the reamer I had 4gotten about that but remember it quit well now from Sergent's advertising.
Al Hummel


On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 11:50 PM, Mike Van Hove wrote:
 
Alan, Ross & others.

I can't help stating the benefits of owning the reamer Sergent sells.  It has saved my bacon, several times in changing to the Sergent couplers.  Just one warning, be careful in handling it, it's extremely sharp (a good thing).

I have no connection to Sergent, other then as a satisfied customer.

Mike Van Hove
On Feb 5, 2014, at 8:20 PM, Ross wrote:

 

Alan,
I have recently been swapping out all my Kadee couplers. From my point of view you are taking on a similar adventure. First, buy a bulk pack of both the narrow shank with the boxes as well as a bulk pack of compatible shank. This way you will have what ever the conversion calls for. So far I have had to ream out the hole, thin the shank and shim the shank to get various conversions completed. Just like any coupler you would use the conversion is as good or as bad as you make it. I have actually ended up carving off a compatible shank box to install a narrow shank box because once I completed the converting it just didn't look right. Some cars you have to be very careful not to break anything, specifically the Kadee cars are a pain to get the coupler box off the car frame. 
Of you have any questions just let me know, my adventure continues!
Ross


On Feb 5, 2014, at 6:58 PM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:

 

I model Accurail 4600 cu ft covered grain hoppers,Atlas 2 bay cvd hoppers to a very small degree,Intermountain 4750 cu ft & a few of their cylindrical cvd hoppers. Most of my tank cars are from Athearn,with a few from Atlas& Walthers. Boxcars are mostly Athearn. I have 1 72' centerbeam from Walthers& an 89' auto carrier also from Walthers. I'm looking to install Compatible shank SBE couplers on most of my freight cars&diesel loco's with standard E couplers too. SE couplers will go on all my tank cars.
I didn't mean to ramble here,but are there certain cars from the builders I've mentioned or locomotives that require a certain coupler? I forgot to mention that all locomotives are GP-38s,GP-40-2's from Atlas with SD-40-2's & two GP-35's from Kato. Oh there's 1 GP40-2 from Athearn. I remember when Frank 1st diecast the standard E coupler,when put on an Accurail cvd grain hopper,it seemed as though the coupler was a little snug fitting on the post in the coupler,(draft gear),box. This is why I'm concerned. Am thinking about taking my 1st try at assembling the144 Compatible Shank SBE couplers.
Would appreciate all input from modelers on this subject.
Thank you,all.
Sincerely'Alan Hummel
Bremen,IN





Morgan Reed
 

As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!


Morgan Reed

John Degnan
 

From: morganreed@...
To: SergentEng@...
Sent: Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24:07 AM
Subject: Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.
On models that have molded-on draft gear boxes, I back this up 100%... the reamer is a necessary tool.  But...
 
I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.
This brings up a pet-peeve of mine in that I sincereny wish that ALL model manufacturers would STOP!!! with the practice of making the draft gear boxes a MOLDED-ON detail!!!  There are SO many, much nicer looking (and working) options out there to choose from such as Kadee's # 262 "Narrow Low Profile" box (which will also accept a Sergent coupler with a very slight amount of shank filing) and Accurail's # 1020 "Proto:HO Accumate" box (which Sergent now offers WITH his 'EN' narrow shank couplers (an absolutely UNBEATABLE combo as far as appearance in concerned!)... all of which easily attach to a model with one or two screws.  So in my view, there is little to no reason for any model manufacturer to provide anything more than a flat mounting 'pad' in the area where there draft gear box goes.  Accurail has actually started doing this on some of their later models... one of which being the AAR 41' Steel Gondola... and it looks fantastic with that scale-sized draft gear and Sergent coupler on it... molded-on grabs/railings or not.
 
And the fringe benefit to manufacturers who would be wise enough to start offering their models with just a mounting pad (like Accurail's) is shorter and easier design, development and material cost by and through having one-less-detail to worry with.
 
The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.
Absolutely!
 
 
John Degnan
 

Alan Hummel
 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed


Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...>
 

After I lost count of the springs that launched themselves into the ether, I tried a gimmick I heard about long ago: I take a length of fishing line and thread it through the little spring.  Then holding both ends of the line between my left thumb and forefinger, I use my right hand to nestle the little devil into the Kadee coupler jig.  Once the spring is locked into position, I gently pull out the line and bingo!  Haven't lost a spring since I started using this method.

Russ Norris


On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 7:13 AM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:
 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed





--
Russell Norris
PO Box 390
West Hyannisport, MA 02672
 

Alan Hummel
 

Ross,that's a new 1 but sounds quite efficient. Now what did I do with my old floss? Have had false teeth for many years now& I think I pitched it,but will pilfer a little of my wife's. Just kidding. Thanks for the tip.
Sincerely,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 7:59 AM, Russ Norris wrote:
 
After I lost count of the springs that launched themselves into the ether, I tried a gimmick I heard about long ago: I take a length of fishing line and thread it through the little spring.  Then holding both ends of the line between my left thumb and forefinger, I use my right hand to nestle the little devil into the Kadee coupler jig.  Once the spring is locked into position, I gently pull out the line and bingo!  Haven't lost a spring since I started using this method.

Russ Norris


On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 7:13 AM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:
 
Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed





--
Russell Norris
PO Box 390
West Hyannisport, MA 02672
 


Mike Van Hove
 

Good morning all,
I have had great success with a very small screwdriver.  It's the smallest of the set of drivers that I own.

It has somehow become ever so slightly magnetized.  I can pick up a spring on the end.  I don't try to impale the spring with the screwdriver.  I can guide the spring into the pocket of the coupler with the screwdriver blade, then just hold the spring down with my thumbnail and withdraw the screwdriver.  Works nearly every time.
I also use the same screwdriver to pick up (1) ball Bearing and insert it in the hole in the coupler.  I use a .5 mm lead pencil to hold the ball while I remove the screwdriver.
Like I said, the blade is just barely magnetized.  I'm not sure how well this would work if it were heavily magnetized.

Hope something here may help.

Mike Van Hove

On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:13 AM, Alan Hummel wrote:

 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed




Alan Hummel
 

Thanks Mike that was a GREAT HELP with the magnatized screwdriver, I been wondering about how to get that ball in there at all. I have "mini" screwdrivers but don't know if it's magnatized. If not,do you know where a fellow could pick one up? I don't think ACE HARDWARE has 'em that small.
Thanks Again'
Al Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 9:52 AM, Mike Van Hove wrote:
 
Good morning all,
I have had great success with a very small screwdriver.  It's the smallest of the set of drivers that I own.

It has somehow become ever so slightly magnetized.  I can pick up a spring on the end.  I don't try to impale the spring with the screwdriver.  I can guide the spring into the pocket of the coupler with the screwdriver blade, then just hold the spring down with my thumbnail and withdraw the screwdriver.  Works nearly every time.
I also use the same screwdriver to pick up (1) ball Bearing and insert it in the hole in the coupler.  I use a .5 mm lead pencil to hold the ball while I remove the screwdriver.
Like I said, the blade is just barely magnetized.  I'm not sure how well this would work if it were heavily magnetized.

Hope something here may help.

Mike Van Hove
On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:13 AM, Alan Hummel wrote:

 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed






Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...>
 

If you pick up the screwdriver with a strong magnet and let it remain in contact for a while, the screwdriver will become magnetized. 

Russ


On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 11:05 AM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Mike that was a GREAT HELP with the magnatized screwdriver, I been wondering about how to get that ball in there at all. I have "mini" screwdrivers but don't know if it's magnatized. If not,do you know where a fellow could pick one up? I don't think ACE HARDWARE has 'em that small.
Thanks Again'
Al Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 9:52 AM, Mike Van Hove <mvanhove@...> wrote:
 
Good morning all,
I have had great success with a very small screwdriver.  It's the smallest of the set of drivers that I own.

It has somehow become ever so slightly magnetized.  I can pick up a spring on the end.  I don't try to impale the spring with the screwdriver.  I can guide the spring into the pocket of the coupler with the screwdriver blade, then just hold the spring down with my thumbnail and withdraw the screwdriver.  Works nearly every time.
I also use the same screwdriver to pick up (1) ball Bearing and insert it in the hole in the coupler.  I use a .5 mm lead pencil to hold the ball while I remove the screwdriver.
Like I said, the blade is just barely magnetized.  I'm not sure how well this would work if it were heavily magnetized.

Hope something here may help.

Mike Van Hove
On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:13 AM, Alan Hummel wrote:

 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed









--
Russell Norris
PO Box 390
West Hyannisport, MA 02672
 

Ross Dando
 

We need to remember that magnetizing the ball may be a bad thing. Frank should maybe chime in here with his take on it as the designer. 

The install tips that are on the web page work very well.
- setting the spring in place and using the shank to compress the spring and then engage the pivot pin of the box. This method has worked the best for my assembled cars that I have been converting. New cars I have been using the scale width box so the assembly is put together away from the car and I then mount it as an assembly.

~;-) Ross

On Feb 6, 2014, at 9:22, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:

 

If you pick up the screwdriver with a strong magnet and let it remain in contact for a while, the screwdriver will become magnetized. 

Russ


On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 11:05 AM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Mike that was a GREAT HELP with the magnatized screwdriver, I been wondering about how to get that ball in there at all. I have "mini" screwdrivers but don't know if it's magnatized. If not,do you know where a fellow could pick one up? I don't think ACE HARDWARE has 'em that small.
Thanks Again'
Al Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 9:52 AM, Mike Van Hove <mvanhove@...> wrote:
 
Good morning all,
I have had great success with a very small screwdriver.  It's the smallest of the set of drivers that I own.

It has somehow become ever so slightly magnetized.  I can pick up a spring on the end.  I don't try to impale the spring with the screwdriver.  I can guide the spring into the pocket of the coupler with the screwdriver blade, then just hold the spring down with my thumbnail and withdraw the screwdriver.  Works nearly every time.
I also use the same screwdriver to pick up (1) ball Bearing and insert it in the hole in the coupler.  I use a .5 mm lead pencil to hold the ball while I remove the screwdriver.
Like I said, the blade is just barely magnetized.  I'm not sure how well this would work if it were heavily magnetized.

Hope something here may help.

Mike Van Hove
On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:13 AM, Alan Hummel wrote:

 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed









--
Russell Norris
PO Box 390
West Hyannisport, MA 02672
 

Mike Van Hove
 

Al,
The screwdrivers I use most of the time are a set from a German Co. called "WIHA".
They are not normally magnetized.  I guess I must have touched the end of the smallest one to some kind of Magnet.
I bet the magnet in the end of the Sergent Uncoupling Wand is strong enough to magnetize the end of the screwdriver.  Just give it a quick touch and try it.  Easy to add more, not so easy to remove it.
Here is a link to the screwdrivers.  This is from the Micro-Mark Web site.

Your LHS should have them.
I bought mine from Mark Twain Hobbies in St Peters, Missouri.


Mike Van Hove

On Feb 6, 2014, at 10:05 AM, Alan Hummel wrote:

 

Thanks Mike that was a GREAT HELP with the magnetized screwdriver, I been wondering about how to get that ball in there at all. I have "mini" screwdrivers but don't know if it's magnetized. If not,do you know where a fellow could pick one up? I don't think ACE HARDWARE has 'em that small.
Thanks Again'
Al Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 9:52 AM, Mike Van Hove <mvanhove@...> wrote:
 
Good morning all,
I have had great success with a very small screwdriver.  It's the smallest of the set of drivers that I own.

It has somehow become ever so slightly magnetized.  I can pick up a spring on the end.  I don't try to impale the spring with the screwdriver.  I can guide the spring into the pocket of the coupler with the screwdriver blade, then just hold the spring down with my thumbnail and withdraw the screwdriver.  Works nearly every time.
I also use the same screwdriver to pick up (1) ball Bearing and insert it in the hole in the coupler.  I use a .5 mm lead pencil to hold the ball while I remove the screwdriver.
Like I said, the blade is just barely magnetized.  I'm not sure how well this would work if it were heavily magnetized.

Hope something here may help.

Mike Van Hove
On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:13 AM, Alan Hummel wrote:

 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed








Mike Van Hove
 

Magnetizing the ball shouldn't be a problem, as the rest of the material in the coupler is non-magnetic.  And, after all, the whole purpose of the uncoupling wand is to atract the ball by a magnet.
When I said to touch the end of the screwdriver to the magnet, I meant just touch it.  Don't leave it there.  We don't want much magnetism, just a wisp, if you will.  After all, the ball doesn't weigh much more than an eyelash and the spring weighs even less.

Mike Van Hove

On Feb 6, 2014, at 10:32 AM, roscodando@... wrote:

 

We need to remember that magnetizing the ball may be a bad thing. Frank should maybe chime in here with his take on it as the designer. 

The install tips that are on the web page work very well.
- setting the spring in place and using the shank to compress the spring and then engage the pivot pin of the box. This method has worked the best for my assembled cars that I have been converting. New cars I have been using the scale width box so the assembly is put together away from the car and I then mount it as an assembly.

~;-) Ross

On Feb 6, 2014, at 9:22, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:

 

If you pick up the screwdriver with a strong magnet and let it remain in contact for a while, the screwdriver will become magnetized. 

Russ


On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 11:05 AM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Mike that was a GREAT HELP with the magnatized screwdriver, I been wondering about how to get that ball in there at all. I have "mini" screwdrivers but don't know if it's magnatized. If not,do you know where a fellow could pick one up? I don't think ACE HARDWARE has 'em that small.
Thanks Again'
Al Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 9:52 AM, Mike Van Hove <mvanhove@...> wrote:
 
Good morning all,
I have had great success with a very small screwdriver.  It's the smallest of the set of drivers that I own.

It has somehow become ever so slightly magnetized.  I can pick up a spring on the end.  I don't try to impale the spring with the screwdriver.  I can guide the spring into the pocket of the coupler with the screwdriver blade, then just hold the spring down with my thumbnail and withdraw the screwdriver.  Works nearly every time.
I also use the same screwdriver to pick up (1) ball Bearing and insert it in the hole in the coupler.  I use a .5 mm lead pencil to hold the ball while I remove the screwdriver.
Like I said, the blade is just barely magnetized.  I'm not sure how well this would work if it were heavily magnetized.

Hope something here may help.

Mike Van Hove
On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:13 AM, Alan Hummel wrote:

 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed











--
Russell Norris
PO Box 390
West Hyannisport, MA 02672
 



jzook@...
 

Hi all,


I thought I'd weigh in on the discussion from my experience handling springs and the micro ball bearings.  First of all, for the springs, I purchased the spring grabber from Micro-Mark.  Here's information about it:


http://www.micromark.com/spring-grabber,7636.html


I've used this tool for many years while building Kadee 714 couplers for my HOn3 fleet, and it works very well with the Sergent couplers.


As for the ball bearing, I lightly magnetized a #11 blade on my hobby knife to pick up the ball bearing.  I magnetized the blade by touching it to the Sergent uncoupling wand.  I can then easily position the ball bearing into the cup on the coupler.  With my free hand, I use a tooth pick to hold the ball bearing in place while sliding away the hobby knife.  I have yet to lose a ball bearing using this method.


Hope this helps!


Jon

Alan Hummel
 

Thanks Russ,now if I can just find a magnet around the house. I never had any strong ones just regular magnets.
Thanks,
Al Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 11:22 AM, Russ Norris wrote:
 
If you pick up the screwdriver with a strong magnet and let it remain in contact for a while, the screwdriver will become magnetized. 

Russ


On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 11:05 AM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:
 
Thanks Mike that was a GREAT HELP with the magnatized screwdriver, I been wondering about how to get that ball in there at all. I have "mini" screwdrivers but don't know if it's magnatized. If not,do you know where a fellow could pick one up? I don't think ACE HARDWARE has 'em that small.
Thanks Again'
Al Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 9:52 AM, Mike Van Hove <mvanhove@...> wrote:
 
Good morning all,
I have had great success with a very small screwdriver.  It's the smallest of the set of drivers that I own.

It has somehow become ever so slightly magnetized.  I can pick up a spring on the end.  I don't try to impale the spring with the screwdriver.  I can guide the spring into the pocket of the coupler with the screwdriver blade, then just hold the spring down with my thumbnail and withdraw the screwdriver.  Works nearly every time.
I also use the same screwdriver to pick up (1) ball Bearing and insert it in the hole in the coupler.  I use a .5 mm lead pencil to hold the ball while I remove the screwdriver.
Like I said, the blade is just barely magnetized.  I'm not sure how well this would work if it were heavily magnetized.

Hope something here may help.

Mike Van Hove
On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:13 AM, Alan Hummel wrote:

 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed









--
Russell Norris
PO Box 390
West Hyannisport, MA 02672
 


Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...>
 

Thanks, Jon.  I had seen this tool in the Micro Mark catalog, but just never got around to buying one.  Sounds like a great addition to the workbench,.

Russ


On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 2:17 PM, <jzook@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,


I thought I'd weigh in on the discussion from my experience handling springs and the micro ball bearings.  First of all, for the springs, I purchased the spring grabber from Micro-Mark.  Here's information about it:


http://www.micromark.com/spring-grabber,7636.html


I've used this tool for many years while building Kadee 714 couplers for my HOn3 fleet, and it works very well with the Sergent couplers.


As for the ball bearing, I lightly magnetized a #11 blade on my hobby knife to pick up the ball bearing.  I magnetized the blade by touching it to the Sergent uncoupling wand.  I can then easily position the ball bearing into the cup on the coupler.  With my free hand, I use a tooth pick to hold the ball bearing in place while sliding away the hobby knife.  I have yet to lose a ball bearing using this method.


Hope this helps!


Jon




--
Russell Norris
PO Box 390
West Hyannisport, MA 02672
 

James Lackner
 

There is a cool little tool that I picked up at Ace, called a "screwdriver magnetizer/demagnetizer."  It is a small box shaped item, that has slots that you insert a screwdriver (or Xacto knife, etc) into to either magnetize it, or demagnetize it.  It has been great for dealing with small springs and other similar parts. 

 

Credit goes to Jason Shron of Rapido for mentioning this tool in one of his blogs.

 

Jim Lackner

Scottsdale, AZ

Christopher Zurek
 

I have a pair of stainless steel tweezers. One in totally non-magnetic and the other is not.

The magnetic one has only a very slight amount of magnetism that it got from touching an uncoupling wand. I use that one to pick up springs or balls. I use the non-magnetic one to help place the item and remove it from the magnetic tweezer.

Chris Z.


On 2/6/2014 8:52 AM, Mike Van Hove wrote:
�

Good morning all,

I have had great success with a very small screwdriver. �It's the smallest of the set of drivers that I own.

It has somehow become ever so slightly magnetized. �I can pick up a spring on the end. �I don't try to impale the spring with the screwdriver. �I can guide the spring into the pocket of the coupler with the screwdriver blade, then just hold the spring down with my thumbnail and withdraw the screwdriver. �Works nearly every time.
I also use the same screwdriver to pick up (1) ball Bearing and insert it in the hole in the coupler. �I use a .5 mm lead pencil to hold the ball while I remove the screwdriver.
Like I said, the blade is just barely magnetized. �I'm not sure how well this would work if it were heavily magnetized.

Hope something here may help.

Mike Van Hove
On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:13 AM, Alan Hummel wrote:

�

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble?�Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
�
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer. �I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size. �The reamer saves the day on that count. �Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs. �If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space. �The spring really does help in lining up the couplers. �The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort. �Have fun!

Morgan Reed