Date   
New guy with some thoughts about couplers

Michael Graff
 

Hey all!
This narrow gauge thing in HOn3 can be a bit tricky at times...
I have tested some of my Kadee equipped locomotives and cars on the layout I bought last spring.
Then I experienced one thing that annoyed me. Greatly!
When running the coaches at speed they oscillate longitudinally.
Not good....

This is obviously because of the Kadee couplers construction ( # 714)?
They spring in the longitudinal direction, and the result makes it look very unrealistic.

How did I find a cure?
I bit the bullet and order a copious amount (well, almost...) of Sergent Sharon couplers!!
Both short and long ones, all inspired by the article in the 2014 HOn3 Annual.
These very scale like couplers, can they solve the oscillating issue and not only the ugly uncouplers that the Kadees have.

I have ordered assembly jigs for them too, as it should make things a bit easier.
They was not much more expensive than Kadees, so that alone speaks for Sergent.
Wish me patience!
:D

Re: Intermountain Auto Racks?

Cliff
 

The autos look good. Mind sharing a measurement from the "heel" portion of the coupler head to the striker?

Also I'm digging the Sergents on the BLMA beer box. Was the conversion easy? My Exactrail beer box wasn't.

Re: [SergentEng] New guy with some thoughts about couplers

Jeff Young
 

Hi Michael,

I did the same as you recently, and for the same reason.

I’ve only installed them on 2 cars so far (a pair of Micro-Trains C&S coal cars), but that went smoothly enough.  And they certainly look more prototypical, even just sitting there.


Cheers,
Jeff.

Re: [SergentEng] New guy with some thoughts about couplers

John Niemeyer <jniemeyer@...>
 

Jeff & Michael
 
That effect with the Kadee 714 coupler, I refer to is coupler bob. Very annoying. I see that with any of the split shank Kadee or Micro Trail Line “N” scale couplers that many narrow gaugers use on HOn3 and HOn30.
 
Please share more photos. If you are doing anything out of the ordinary, please share that as well.
 
Are those C&S gons Micro Train Lines or Grandt Line? Really nice weathering.
 
John Niemeyer
 
 
[Attachment(s) from Jeff Young included below]

Hi Michael,
 
I did the same as you recently, and for the same reason.
 
I’ve only installed them on 2 cars so far (a pair of Micro-Trains C&S coal cars), but that went smoothly enough.  And they certainly look more prototypical, even just sitting there.
 
 
Cheers,
Jeff.

Attachment(s) from Jeff Young | View attachments on the web

1 of 1 Photo(s)

Re: [SergentEng] New guy with some thoughts about couplers

Jeff Young
 

Hi John,

Those are MTL coal cars.  I have some Grandt Line and La Belle coal car and boxcar kits, but I haven’t assembled any of them yet.

More info on the MTL coal car Sharon install here:

Dale thought I might have issues with the Accumate boxes fouling the trucks of these cars on short-radius turns.  I’ve nothing tighter than 25” on my layout at present, but I’m constructing a couple of test tracks at 18” and 15” radii to experiment with.  (My layout probably won’t ever go below 18”, but it’ll be good to have the info.)

Cheers,
Jeff.

Re: [SergentEng] New guy with some thoughts about couplers

John Niemeyer <jniemeyer@...>
 

Jeff
 
I use a wheel interference tester fro Crystal River Products http://www.crystalriverproducts.com/Products/Accessories/wheel_interference_tester.htm I use the HOn3 17” radius #720-117. If the clearance is good at 17” then I will have no problems on any larger radius. In some cases I use the Kadee 714 coupler pocket of even just the centering pin removed from the Accumate box.
 
John
 

Hi John,
 
Those are MTL coal cars.  I have some Grandt Line and La Belle coal car and boxcar kits, but I haven’t assembled any of them yet.
 
More info on the MTL coal car Sharon install here:
 
Dale thought I might have issues with the Accumate boxes fouling the trucks of these cars on short-radius turns.  I’ve nothing tighter than 25” on my layout at present, but I’m constructing a couple of test tracks at 18” and 15” radii to experiment with.  (My layout probably won’t ever go below 18”, but it’ll be good to have the info.)
 
Cheers,
Jeff.

Re: Intermountain Auto Racks?

Byron Rissetton
 

approximately 2mm or 0.0787402inches, the conversion was pretty good actually, you don't need to ream or thin the shank if you dont want to, the box cover was a little fiddly but way easier than the exactrail trincools, the blma beer car cut bar is the only part attatched to the box and is quite flexible for installing the bottom e's

Byron

Recommendations and Advice for Someone New to Sergent Couplers

Rick Payne
 

Hello All,

I am new to these couplers and my son wants to try them.  With my son wanting to use them and with some of the recent pictures that have been posted, I though I would give them a try.  I would like to ask the group which type of coupler I should get for Athearn Blue Box rolling stock and engines, HO.  Would it be the EC87K or should I be looking at a different one.

I am hoping to purchase them later this week or early next week.  Any and all advice for a noobie will be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,

Rick


P.S. I think I'll have my son assemble the couplers. :)

Re: Recommendations and Advice for Someone New to Sergent Couplers

Alan Hummel
 

How old is your son? I ask because of the level of care needed for proper assembly for good working & that wasn't meant in a derogatory manner,just the opposite.

The type coupler you choose,depends to a high degree on the era you're modeling in. Before 1975,the common E coupler would be my coupler of choice.

In 1975,the Government mandated that all tank cars carrying hazardous materials,install the double shelf couplers to keep an adjoining common E coupler from sliding up & out of the coupler on the tank car&puncturing the tank. In years since that date,the railroads have changed much of their engines & rolling stock over to double shelf couplers for tankers and lower shelf couplers for non hazardous cargos.

Again,depending on your era of modeling interest,will depend on your couplers of choice. You can have E couplers,SE,(double shelf E couplers),SBE,(E lower shelf couplers),SF,(double shelf F couplers),F couplers&H couplers all intermingled,again depending on era of modeling. The H couplers are designed primarily for passenger trains.

Hope this helps.
Al Hummel

Re: [SergentEng] Re: Recommendations and Advice for Someone New to Sergent Couplers

Rick Payne
 

Mr. Hummel,

Thanks for your reply.  My son is 15.  I understand why you asked and no offense is taken.  He amazes me sometimes since he prefers to scratch build then build kits. He started making buildings out of paper, kind of mock setup, and then moved to plastic and wood.  He is teaching himself the 'art' of modeling.  I only help when he asks for help.  Kind of the way I learn how over the years.  He currently building a diorama of SFO back in the 40's at a scale of 1:400.  While it's not a scale I would start with, its turning out looking good.  It is his first real attempt at scratch building to boot.  With model railroading I am helping him with scenery and weathering.

We both belong to a local model railroad club so our rolling stock and motive power cover late 40's to late 60's.  Home layout will cover the 60's to present.  From what you say, I can pick up a mixture of couplers and install them per year and car type.  Thanks again for the info.

Best Regards,
Rick



On Tuesday, December 8, 2015 4:07 PM, "Alan Hummel ahummel72@... [SergentEng]" wrote:


 
How old is your son? I ask because of the level of care needed for proper assembly for good working & that wasn't meant in a derogatory manner,just the opposite.

The type coupler you choose,depends to a high degree on the era you're modeling in. Before 1975,the common E coupler would be my coupler of choice.

In 1975,the Government mandated that all tank cars carrying hazardous materials,install the double shelf couplers to keep an adjoining common E coupler from sliding up & out of the coupler on the tank car&puncturing the tank. In years since that date,the railroads have changed much of their engines & rolling stock over to double shelf couplers for tankers and lower shelf couplers for non hazardous cargos.

Again,depending on your era of modeling interest,will depend on your couplers of choice. You can have E couplers,SE,(double shelf E couplers),SBE,(E lower shelf couplers),SF,(double shelf F couplers),F couplers&H couplers all intermingled,again depending on era of modeling. The H couplers are designed primarily for passenger trains.

Hope this helps.
Al Hummel


Re: [SergentEng] Re: Recommendations and Advice for Someone New to Sergent Couplers

Alan Hummel
 

Rick,

That's a remarkable skill your son has. Builders in O Scale are especially badly needed & the money is great in that scale although it's a fantastic skill in any scale.

Glad to help with the couplers. These are indeed fine couplers. I started with Kadee but as soon as the shelf couplers came along I moved to all Sergent.

Good luck & if I can be of any help,drop me a line.

Al Hummel



On Tuesday, December 8, 2015 7:59 PM, "Richard Payne rpayne101@... [SergentEng]" wrote:


 
Mr. Hummel,

Thanks for your reply.  My son is 15.  I understand why you asked and no offense is taken.  He amazes me sometimes since he prefers to scratch build then build kits. He started making buildings out of paper, kind of mock setup, and then moved to plastic and wood.  He is teaching himself the 'art' of modeling.  I only help when he asks for help.  Kind of the way I learn how over the years.  He currently building a diorama of SFO back in the 40's at a scale of 1:400.  While it's not a scale I would start with, its turning out looking good.  It is his first real attempt at scratch building to boot.  With model railroading I am helping him with scenery and weathering.

We both belong to a local model railroad club so our rolling stock and motive power cover late 40's to late 60's.  Home layout will cover the 60's to present.  From what you say, I can pick up a mixture of couplers and install them per year and car type.  Thanks again for the info.

Best Regards,
Rick



On Tuesday, December 8, 2015 4:07 PM, "Alan Hummel ahummel72@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:


 
How old is your son? I ask because of the level of care needed for proper assembly for good working & that wasn't meant in a derogatory manner,just the opposite.

The type coupler you choose,depends to a high degree on the era you're modeling in. Before 1975,the common E coupler would be my coupler of choice.

In 1975,the Government mandated that all tank cars carrying hazardous materials,install the double shelf couplers to keep an adjoining common E coupler from sliding up & out of the coupler on the tank car&puncturing the tank. In years since that date,the railroads have changed much of their engines & rolling stock over to double shelf couplers for tankers and lower shelf couplers for non hazardous cargos.

Again,depending on your era of modeling interest,will depend on your couplers of choice. You can have E couplers,SE,(double shelf E couplers),SBE,(E lower shelf couplers),SF,(double shelf F couplers),F couplers&H couplers all intermingled,again depending on era of modeling. The H couplers are designed primarily for passenger trains.

Hope this helps.
Al Hummel




Re: Intermountain Auto Racks?

Cliff
 

Thanks for the numbers. I will be using the .130 then.

With my Exactrail box, all I had left was a pair of narrow shank couplers in the Accurail draft sills; removed them, had to chop the inner post on the Exactrail draft sill and make my own further up.
I havent't opened up the BLMAs...

Re: [SergentEng] Recommendations and Advice for Someone New to Sergent Couplers

Nathan Rich
 

I've put many EC87's into Athearn cars.

Get a nice 1" flat mill file and give your assembled couplers a few swipes top and bottom of the shank. I find that they will operate a bit more smoothly.

You might consider EN87, then they go into the supplied Accurail box. I've had more than one coupler drop out on the mainline when the metal cover pops off.

Take Care,
Nathan Rich


On Tuesday, December 8, 2015, Alan Hummel ahummel72@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 

Rick,

That's a remarkable skill your son has. Builders in O Scale are especially badly needed & the money is great in that scale although it's a fantastic skill in any scale.

Glad to help with the couplers. These are indeed fine couplers. I started with Kadee but as soon as the shelf couplers came along I moved to all Sergent.

Good luck & if I can be of any help,drop me a line.

Al Hummel



On Tuesday, December 8, 2015 7:59 PM, "Richard Payne rpayne101@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:


 
Mr. Hummel,

Thanks for your reply.  My son is 15.  I understand why you asked and no offense is taken.  He amazes me sometimes since he prefers to scratch build then build kits. He started making buildings out of paper, kind of mock setup, and then moved to plastic and wood.  He is teaching himself the 'art' of modeling.  I only help when he asks for help.  Kind of the way I learn how over the years.  He currently building a diorama of SFO back in the 40's at a scale of 1:400.  While it's not a scale I would start with, its turning out looking good.  It is his first real attempt at scratch building to boot.  With model railroading I am helping him with scenery and weathering.

We both belong to a local model railroad club so our rolling stock and motive power cover late 40's to late 60's.  Home layout will cover the 60's to present.  From what you say, I can pick up a mixture of couplers and install them per year and car type.  Thanks again for the info.

Best Regards,
Rick



On Tuesday, December 8, 2015 4:07 PM, "Alan Hummel ahummel72@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:


 
How old is your son? I ask because of the level of care needed for proper assembly for good working & that wasn't meant in a derogatory manner,just the opposite.

The type coupler you choose,depends to a high degree on the era you're modeling in. Before 1975,the common E coupler would be my coupler of choice.

In 1975,the Government mandated that all tank cars carrying hazardous materials,install the double shelf couplers to keep an adjoining common E coupler from sliding up & out of the coupler on the tank car&puncturing the tank. In years since that date,the railroads have changed much of their engines & rolling stock over to double shelf couplers for tankers and lower shelf couplers for non hazardous cargos.

Again,depending on your era of modeling interest,will depend on your couplers of choice. You can have E couplers,SE,(double shelf E couplers),SBE,(E lower shelf couplers),SF,(double shelf F couplers),F couplers&H couplers all intermingled,again depending on era of modeling. The H couplers are designed primarily for passenger trains.

Hope this helps.
Al Hummel




Re: Recommendations and Advice for Someone New to Sergent Couplers

Frank Sergent
 

Hi Rick,

 

There is a step-by-step installation guide on the sergent engineering website for Athearn blue box models. Go to the website, then click "Instructions, Etc". Then scroll down to "Click here for installation tips". Then click on "40' Box car (old blue box style)". There are quite a few other installations documented here. For some reason, few people seem to find this section of the website...

 

Thanks,

Frank

 


 

Re: [SergentEng] Recommendations and Advice for Someone New to Sergent Couplers

Nathan Rich
 

Yes, you are correct. I have equipped about 75 Athearn cars with Sergent couplers, and with the excepting of one caboose they all had those metal clips. I am well aware of the difference.

I was suggesting replacing the stock box with EN87 and the Sergent supplied Accurail box, which will reduce the loss of the metal plate. I have had that happen about five times while running trains. They also pop off easily when they are in my transport box. I personally feel that the A-Line screw system, while clever and good enough for a Kadee coupler, is unnecessary because we have the EN87. I'd rather spend the 23.95 and whatever else to get a minimum $35 order from A-Line on EN87's and a scale size coupler box that will look better on the end of the car.


On Tuesday, December 8, 2015, Andy Jackson <lajrmdlr@...> wrote:
Nathan
The old Athearn cars have the metal coupler covers not Accurail. Aline does make an assembly to put a screw to hold the metal cover on now.
Andy Jackson
Santa Fe Springs CA


Re: Intermountain Auto Racks?

Byron Rissetton
 

Ive just used compatibles at the moment but will look at putting narrows in for a more prototypical look later on down the track! those BLMA's are quite cool!

Re: Using with Rapido passenger cars

Dennis
 

Hey everyone. New to the group but not Sergent couplers. Love em and have been using them for several years!

I've NOT yet installed any on my Rapido passenger cars and that's the reason I came to this group.

Has anyone had experience with which couplers to use on the Rapido cars?

I tried using the standard EC87K but the shanks were too thick to use in the Rapido coupler box. I thought about filing them down thinner but thought I'd check here for a more compatible model Sergent before going through all that trouble of filing down shanks.

Thanks,

Dennis

Narrow Shank Couplers

Alan Hummel
 

I just noticed most of the narrow shank couplers,like SE,SF.mostly,modern couplers, are no longer listed. I never used many of these of these except for Intermountain tankers that use the Accurail narrow couplwe boxes-have these been fazed out?

Thank you,

Al Hummel

Help

Scott Atchison
 

Guys, I am having great difficulty assembling these couplers. does anyone have any advice?


-Scott 

Re: [SergentEng] Help

Michael Graff
 

We need more info, which sort of Sergents?
And do you use a jig?

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Ämne:[SergentEng] Help

 

Guys, I am having great difficulty assembling these couplers. does anyone have any advice?


-Scott