Date   
Re: Corrosion on couplers

Alan Hummel
 

Mike Van Hove,


Mike,I'm no sure of anything right now cause I just got up,but I don't scrape any paint off that I know of in the break in process,just use lead pencil over the inside of knuckle & inside coupling area-maybe that is scraping off paint un be known  to me.(?) So far have noticed few problems. I know frustration,sometimes you just got to walk away from it all,at least I do until I can simmer down & collect what few brains I have left.


Hope this helps.

Al Hummel

Re: [SergentEng] Re: Corrosion on couplers

Mike Van Hove
 

Thanks,
(The other Mike)

On Jul 3, 2015, at 7:23 AM, ahummel72@... [SergentEng] wrote:

 

Mike Van Hove,


Mike,I'm no sure of anything right now cause I just got up,but I don't scrape any paint off that I know of in the break in process,just use lead pencil over the inside of knuckle & inside coupling area-maybe that is scraping off paint un be known  to me.(?) So far have noticed few problems. I know frustration,sometimes you just got to walk away from it all,at least I do until I can simmer down & collect what few brains I have left.


Hope this helps.

Al Hummel



Non-closing knuckle update

Alan Hummel
 

Hello all,

I've had a lot on my plate lately so have been out of touch on any updates & solutions to the coupler knuckles freezing open on couplers you assemble. Are there any updates on what exactly was going on there & permanent solutions,or maybe I should say the best 8 out of 10 solutions, to the problem?

I've had 1 assembled knuckle do a lot of that,but always seem to be able to get it to move again. The odd thing is I can close it with the wire on the magnetic wand every time,just not in coupling as well. I buy my couplers assembled as the eyes & fingures,as well as my patience,won't allow putting couplers together.

Thanks to all for all input in advance.
Al Hummel

Re: [SergentEng] Non-closing knuckle update

Luther Brefo
 

I'm interested in answers today before I begin converting everything over....other it will remain Kadee 158s.

On Aug 14, 2015 3:33 PM, "Alan Hummel ahummel72@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 

Hello all,

I've had a lot on my plate lately so have been out of touch on any updates & solutions to the coupler knuckles freezing open on couplers you assemble. Are there any updates on what exactly was going on there & permanent solutions,or maybe I should say the best 8 out of 10 solutions, to the problem?

I've had 1 assembled knuckle do a lot of that,but always seem to be able to get it to move again. The odd thing is I can close it with the wire on the magnetic wand every time,just not in coupling as well. I buy my couplers assembled as the eyes & fingures,as well as my patience,won't allow putting couplers together.

Thanks to all for all input in advance.
Al Hummel

Re: [SergentEng] Non-closing knuckle update

Tim L
 

I guess I can give an update of sorts. Hopefully Frank can give a more
comprehensive update.

Frank has been very busy working on this and believes the end solution
is in sight, if not arrived. I know it's been a long time but for those
that don't know what Frank had to do I'll try and explain it.

He had to try and figure out what change in process(es) in the past may
have caused or contributed to the problem, then tweak the design to
overcome it, cast up a bunch of couplers, assemble and test them; and
then tweak, cast, assemble and test again, and repeat ad infinitum
until hitting a design that doesn't exhibit the problem. If Franks
estimates were correct this would have taken about 2 weeks per
iteration.

Now, for Luther, I'm at a bit of a loss to understand your comment.
I'm not sure if you have seen the posts before but the diecast couplers
(basically anything available as a bulk pack) were not affected by this
problem so you can quite safely use them, they would probably cover 90%
or more of your needs without ever using the investment cast couplers
which are really speciality / modern couplers.

Best to yo all,

Tim
Land of OZ

On 15/08/2015 05:33, Alan Hummel ahummel72@... [SergentEng] wrote:
Hello all,

I've had a lot on my plate lately so have been out of touch on any
updates & solutions to the coupler knuckles freezing open on couplers
you assemble. Are there any updates on what exactly was going on there &
permanent solutions,or maybe I should say the best 8 out of 10
solutions, to the problem?

I've had 1 assembled knuckle do a lot of that,but always seem to be able
to get it to move again. The odd thing is I can close it with the wire
on the magnetic wand every time,just not in coupling as well. I buy my
couplers assembled as the eyes & fingures,as well as my patience,won't
allow putting couplers together.

Thanks to all for all input in advance.
Al Hummel

Re: [SergentEng] Non-closing knuckle update

Frank Sergent
 

Hi All,

Tim's update on the situation is absolutely correct. I can add a little more as well.

First, there seems to be confusion about which couplers might exhibit the problem and so maybe some folks are afraid to order anything right now. As soon as I verified the reported operational problem with the couplers, I disabled online ordering for the affected items. That seems like forever ago. 

I believe that anything you can currently order on the website will operate correctly and can be shipped within a week. As Tim pointed out, this includes all the diecast couplers. The investment cast double shelf couplers are also available at this point as problems with those have been corrected and I have stock on hand. 

The next item to become available will be the type F and type H couplers. I have verified my fix for those, but I currently don't have enough stock to justify enabling online ordering for those again. I expect to cast a batch next weekend and will have items available the next week.

The next items to come will be the short shank couplers. The fix is verified, I just need to build stock but I'm working on the type H/F first.

Next up will be the long shank couplers. Again, the fix is verified - just need to build stock.

I have a short list of customers that have reported experiencing the "knuckle locked in the open position" problem to me. If you have experienced this problem and have not yet contacted me about it, please do so offlist. Just click the email-us link on the website. My intent is to make good with those customers prior to enabling ordering for those items on the my website. I should note that this problem previously only affected a small fraction of couplers shipped. Most worked just fine. That's part of what made this problem so difficult to pin down. In short, if you don't know if you have couplers with this problem - then you most likely do not.

If there is a bright side to this issue, its that I'll have quite a few assembled couplers available for styles that are typically only available as kits. Those items will be listed beside the kits on the website and will be made available at the same time the kits are released again.

Thanks to everyone for waiting. This has been a long road.

Thanks,
Frank

  

Re: [SergentEng] Non-closing knuckle update

Mark Lewis
 

Frank:

It's nice to see a manufacturer step-up and tackle a manufacturing issue head on, so as to make the buying public confident to start purchasing product again. Kudos for your efforts, as it has given me the confidence to soon order HOn3 couplers to convert my rolling stock to Sergent couplers.

Mark Lewis
Hickory, NC

On Sat, Aug 15, 2015 at 5:19 PM, fsergent@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 

Hi All,


Tim's update on the situation is absolutely correct. I can add a little more as well.

First, there seems to be confusion about which couplers might exhibit the problem and so maybe some folks are afraid to order anything right now. As soon as I verified the reported operational problem with the couplers, I disabled online ordering for the affected items. That seems like forever ago. 

I believe that anything you can currently order on the website will operate correctly and can be shipped within a week. As Tim pointed out, this includes all the diecast couplers. The investment cast double shelf couplers are also available at this point as problems with those have been corrected and I have stock on hand. 

The next item to become available will be the type F and type H couplers. I have verified my fix for those, but I currently don't have enough stock to justify enabling online ordering for those again. I expect to cast a batch next weekend and will have items available the next week.

The next items to come will be the short shank couplers. The fix is verified, I just need to build stock but I'm working on the type H/F first.

Next up will be the long shank couplers. Again, the fix is verified - just need to build stock.

I have a short list of customers that have reported experiencing the "knuckle locked in the open position" problem to me. If you have experienced this problem and have not yet contacted me about it, please do so offlist. Just click the email-us link on the website. My intent is to make good with those customers prior to enabling ordering for those items on the my website. I should note that this problem previously only affected a small fraction of couplers shipped. Most worked just fine. That's part of what made this problem so difficult to pin down. In short, if you don't know if you have couplers with this problem - then you most likely do not.

If there is a bright side to this issue, its that I'll have quite a few assembled couplers available for styles that are typically only available as kits. Those items will be listed beside the kits on the website and will be made available at the same time the kits are released again.

Thanks to everyone for waiting. This has been a long road.

Thanks,
Frank

  


Re: [SergentEng] Non-closing knuckle update

Luther Brefo
 

Thanks for clearing this up Frank.

On Aug 15, 2015 22:50, "Mark Lewis narrowrails12@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 

Frank:

It's nice to see a manufacturer step-up and tackle a manufacturing issue head on, so as to make the buying public confident to start purchasing product again. Kudos for your efforts, as it has given me the confidence to soon order HOn3 couplers to convert my rolling stock to Sergent couplers.

Mark Lewis
Hickory, NC

On Sat, Aug 15, 2015 at 5:19 PM, fsergent@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 

Hi All,


Tim's update on the situation is absolutely correct. I can add a little more as well.

First, there seems to be confusion about which couplers might exhibit the problem and so maybe some folks are afraid to order anything right now. As soon as I verified the reported operational problem with the couplers, I disabled online ordering for the affected items. That seems like forever ago. 

I believe that anything you can currently order on the website will operate correctly and can be shipped within a week. As Tim pointed out, this includes all the diecast couplers. The investment cast double shelf couplers are also available at this point as problems with those have been corrected and I have stock on hand. 

The next item to become available will be the type F and type H couplers. I have verified my fix for those, but I currently don't have enough stock to justify enabling online ordering for those again. I expect to cast a batch next weekend and will have items available the next week.

The next items to come will be the short shank couplers. The fix is verified, I just need to build stock but I'm working on the type H/F first.

Next up will be the long shank couplers. Again, the fix is verified - just need to build stock.

I have a short list of customers that have reported experiencing the "knuckle locked in the open position" problem to me. If you have experienced this problem and have not yet contacted me about it, please do so offlist. Just click the email-us link on the website. My intent is to make good with those customers prior to enabling ordering for those items on the my website. I should note that this problem previously only affected a small fraction of couplers shipped. Most worked just fine. That's part of what made this problem so difficult to pin down. In short, if you don't know if you have couplers with this problem - then you most likely do not.

If there is a bright side to this issue, its that I'll have quite a few assembled couplers available for styles that are typically only available as kits. Those items will be listed beside the kits on the website and will be made available at the same time the kits are released again.

Thanks to everyone for waiting. This has been a long road.

Thanks,
Frank

  


Coupler bining in draft gear boxes

Alan Hummel
 

Hi,
I'm still in the experiment stage with mounting Sergent couplers in various rolling stock & diesel draft boxes.
So far,Intermountain rolling stock is mostly a "drop in" procedure.
Tangent 4750 cvd grain hoppers & Athearn,represent varing degrees of problems.
Tangent is a "NO GO" as when the coupler cover is installed the couplers won't turn side to side to at all. They come with Kadee #58s installed,&they work about right. I compared the shank thickness & there's a "tad" bit more thickness on the Sergent coupler,which is all that's required for failure to swing back & forth,but am reluctant to start filing down the coupler shank. Could it be that the post spreads just enough when the screw is installed that's holding the coupler from swinging instead of the shank thickness? If this is the case,I bought the Sergent Reamer. I need to do more experimentation,but just wondered if anyone else has had this similar problem & has the answer for me.
 Also,should I use longer shank SBE couplers on SD40-2s & on cars such as 72ft centerbeam flat's & 89ft auto carriers?

Many thanks to all for your help.
Al Hummel

Re: [SergentEng] Coupler bining in draft gear boxes

Mike Van Hove
 

Just thin the shank with a couple of strokes of a good, sharp, flat file.  Try the fit as you go, you can always take off more, but it's hard to add some back on.  VBG

And, yes, the reamer is your best friend.  Go easy, as it cuts very well in this rather soft material.  One twist and give it a try.  You will soon learn how many turns to get a very good fit.

Have fun!

Mike Van Hove

On Aug 16, 2015, at 12:04 PM, Alan Hummel ahummel72@... [SergentEng] wrote:

 

Hi,
I'm still in the experiment stage with mounting Sergent couplers in various rolling stock & diesel draft boxes.
So far,Intermountain rolling stock is mostly a "drop in" procedure.
Tangent 4750 cvd grain hoppers & Athearn,represent varing degrees of problems.
Tangent is a "NO GO" as when the coupler cover is installed the couplers won't turn side to side to at all. They come with Kadee #58s installed,&they work about right. I compared the shank thickness & there's a "tad" bit more thickness on the Sergent coupler,which is all that's required for failure to swing back & forth,but am reluctant to start filing down the coupler shank. Could it be that the post spreads just enough when the screw is installed that's holding the coupler from swinging instead of the shank thickness? If this is the case,I bought the Sergent Reamer. I need to do more experimentation,but just wondered if anyone else has had this similar problem & has the answer for me.
 Also,should I use longer shank SBE couplers on SD40-2s & on cars such as 72ft centerbeam flat's & 89ft auto carriers?

Many thanks to all for your help.
Al Hummel



Re: [SergentEng] Coupler bining in draft gear boxes

Alan Hummel
 

Mike,
Thank you,will give them both a try,definately.
A Hummel



On Sunday, August 16, 2015 3:06 PM, "Mike Van Hove mvanhove@... [SergentEng]" wrote:


 
Just thin the shank with a couple of strokes of a good, sharp, flat file.  Try the fit as you go, you can always take off more, but it's hard to add some back on.  VBG

And, yes, the reamer is your best friend.  Go easy, as it cuts very well in this rather soft material.  One twist and give it a try.  You will soon learn how many turns to get a very good fit.

Have fun!

Mike Van Hove
On Aug 16, 2015, at 12:04 PM, Alan Hummel ahummel72@... [SergentEng] wrote:

 

Hi,
I'm still in the experiment stage with mounting Sergent couplers in various rolling stock & diesel draft boxes.
So far,Intermountain rolling stock is mostly a "drop in" procedure.
Tangent 4750 cvd grain hoppers & Athearn,represent varing degrees of problems.
Tangent is a "NO GO" as when the coupler cover is installed the couplers won't turn side to side to at all. They come with Kadee #58s installed,&they work about right. I compared the shank thickness & there's a "tad" bit more thickness on the Sergent coupler,which is all that's required for failure to swing back & forth,but am reluctant to start filing down the coupler shank. Could it be that the post spreads just enough when the screw is installed that's holding the coupler from swinging instead of the shank thickness? If this is the case,I bought the Sergent Reamer. I need to do more experimentation,but just wondered if anyone else has had this similar problem & has the answer for me.
 Also,should I use longer shank SBE couplers on SD40-2s & on cars such as 72ft centerbeam flat's & 89ft auto carriers?

Many thanks to all for your help.
Al Hummel





Re: [SergentEng] Coupler bining in draft gear boxes

Ryan Harris
 

I like to fill in the voids where the two parts join along the sides of the shank and the round dimple on top of the shank with CA. Then I use a large flat file to take down the top of the shank until it's smooth. Depending on the installation, I may keep going with the file on both the top and bottom of the shank until it moves smoothly in the pocket.

Ryan H
Fort Worth TX 


-------- Original message --------
From: "Alan Hummel ahummel72@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...>
Date: 08/16/2015 15:14 (GMT-06:00)
To: SergentEng@...
Subject: Re: [SergentEng] Coupler bining in draft gear boxes

 

Mike,
Thank you,will give them both a try,definately.
A Hummel



On Sunday, August 16, 2015 3:06 PM, "Mike Van Hove mvanhove@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:


 
Just thin the shank with a couple of strokes of a good, sharp, flat file.  Try the fit as you go, you can always take off more, but it's hard to add some back on.  VBG

And, yes, the reamer is your best friend.  Go easy, as it cuts very well in this rather soft material.  One twist and give it a try.  You will soon learn how many turns to get a very good fit.

Have fun!

Mike Van Hove
On Aug 16, 2015, at 12:04 PM, Alan Hummel ahummel72@... [SergentEng] wrote:

 

Hi,
I'm still in the experiment stage with mounting Sergent couplers in various rolling stock & diesel draft boxes.
So far,Intermountain rolling stock is mostly a "drop in" procedure.
Tangent 4750 cvd grain hoppers & Athearn,represent varing degrees of problems.
Tangent is a "NO GO" as when the coupler cover is installed the couplers won't turn side to side to at all. They come with Kadee #58s installed,&they work about right. I compared the shank thickness & there's a "tad" bit more thickness on the Sergent coupler,which is all that's required for failure to swing back & forth,but am reluctant to start filing down the coupler shank. Could it be that the post spreads just enough when the screw is installed that's holding the coupler from swinging instead of the shank thickness? If this is the case,I bought the Sergent Reamer. I need to do more experimentation,but just wondered if anyone else has had this similar problem & has the answer for me.
 Also,should I use longer shank SBE couplers on SD40-2s & on cars such as 72ft centerbeam flat's & 89ft auto carriers?

Many thanks to all for your help.
Al Hummel





Re: [SergentEng] Coupler bining in draft gear boxes

Tim L
 

The other way to try if you don't like the idea of thinning the shank
is to build up the coupler box with some thin styrene, effectively
making the coupler box deeper. I'll have to do this with some of
my stuff.

Another thing to watch out for, since you bought up the centre post in
the coupler box, I have found on not so great designed models this can
be fattened by the lid screw making it hard to get the coupler over the
post but the post is still the right diameter where the coupler sits.
Reaming the coupler in this case would make it a sloppy fit on the
centre post. I haven't figured out a good way of dealing with these
except to force the coupler onto the post.

Best to you all,

Tim

On 17/08/2015 03:04, Alan Hummel ahummel72@... [SergentEng] wrote:
Hi,
I'm still in the experiment stage with mounting Sergent couplers in
various rolling stock & diesel draft boxes.
So far,Intermountain rolling stock is mostly a "drop in" procedure.
Tangent 4750 cvd grain hoppers & Athearn,represent varing degrees of
problems.
Tangent is a "NO GO" as when the coupler cover is installed the couplers
won't turn side to side to at all. They come with Kadee #58s
installed,&they work about right. I compared the shank thickness &
there's a "tad" bit more thickness on the Sergent coupler,which is all
that's required for failure to swing back & forth,but am reluctant to
start filing down the coupler shank. Could it be that the post spreads
just enough when the screw is installed that's holding the coupler from
swinging instead of the shank thickness? If this is the case,I bought
the Sergent Reamer. I need to do more experimentation,but just wondered
if anyone else has had this similar problem & has the answer for me.
Also,should I use longer shank SBE couplers on SD40-2s & on cars such
as 72ft centerbeam flat's & 89ft auto carriers?

Many thanks to all for your help.*:) happy
Al Hummel

Re: [SergentEng] Coupler bining in draft gear boxes

Nathan Rich
 

After having installed about 300 of these couplers, I have found through experience that a couple of swipes up and down on both top and bottom of the shank with a mill file will remove any burrs of metal or dried CA and permit very smooth action in the coupler box. I would not be afraid to thin the shank quite a bit, just make sure you do more on the top and less on the bottom plate. As long as the couplers are within about 1/4 of the head height of nominal, and you are not using tightlocks, you're golden. Real cars can and do vary in coupler height. Tightlocks are where coupler height is critical.

Reaming the center hole is not a bad idea, but do a little at a time and test fit as you go, taking care to stop as soon as it operates freely.

As to longer shank couplers, I find that whatever looks right is probably the best. In practice on 1:1 I have seen some pretty long drawbars on centerbeam cars, but not autoracks. Racks are loaded circus-style, with the cars being driven through 4 or 5 racks before they get to where they need to be, and as such they want the railcars closer together. This is of course limited by your tightest curve that the cars are going to operate through, two racks coupled with standard shank E's will probably not go through your usual 22" radius curve. That will require probably 42" or greater, but larger equipment looks better on broader curves anyway.

On locomotives, I like to set my coupler so that the inner face of the coupler (where it pushes against the next knuckle, not the pulling face of the knuckle) is right at the outer tip of the pilot or whatever the furthest protrusion of the pilot is. This enables locomotives to be realistically close but not touch. How else is your HO scale fireman going to get back to that third unit and take it off the line because it's not putting out any power? (Note: Milwaukee Road modelers need not worry)

Nathan Rich

On Aug 17, 2015 5:02 AM, "TS egroupstuff@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 

The other way to try if you don't like the idea of thinning the shank
is to build up the coupler box with some thin styrene, effectively
making the coupler box deeper. I'll have to do this with some of
my stuff.

Another thing to watch out for, since you bought up the centre post in
the coupler box, I have found on not so great designed models this can
be fattened by the lid screw making it hard to get the coupler over the
post but the post is still the right diameter where the coupler sits.
Reaming the coupler in this case would make it a sloppy fit on the
centre post. I haven't figured out a good way of dealing with these
except to force the coupler onto the post.

Best to you all,

Tim

On 17/08/2015 03:04, Alan Hummel ahummel72@... [SergentEng] wrote:
> Hi,
> I'm still in the experiment stage with mounting Sergent couplers in
> various rolling stock & diesel draft boxes.
> So far,Intermountain rolling stock is mostly a "drop in" procedure.
> Tangent 4750 cvd grain hoppers & Athearn,represent varing degrees of
> problems.
> Tangent is a "NO GO" as when the coupler cover is installed the couplers
> won't turn side to side to at all. They come with Kadee #58s
> installed,&they work about right. I compared the shank thickness &
> there's a "tad" bit more thickness on the Sergent coupler,which is all
> that's required for failure to swing back & forth,but am reluctant to
> start filing down the coupler shank. Could it be that the post spreads
> just enough when the screw is installed that's holding the coupler from
> swinging instead of the shank thickness? If this is the case,I bought
> the Sergent Reamer. I need to do more experimentation,but just wondered
> if anyone else has had this similar problem & has the answer for me.
> Also,should I use longer shank SBE couplers on SD40-2s & on cars such
> as 72ft centerbeam flat's & 89ft auto carriers?
>
> Many thanks to all for your help.*:) happy
> Al Hummel

EOT's

Nathan Rich
 

So i know an EOT device is strictly not a coupler but they do attach to couplers. I wonder if anybody would want one mounted on a Sergent coupler though? As long as the thing is scale sized it could even have a couple of nubs on the side that slot into the indentations on the side of the coupler...

Just an idea I had

Nathan

Re: [SergentEng] EOT's

Tim L
 

I plan on doing this one day. Ring Engineering sell a ready made EOT
and theirs is just pre-glued to a Kadee much like you suggest. It might
not be too hard to prise it off and re-glue it to a Sergent. Not much
help to me though, wrong style of EOT and definitely wrong style
of bogie.

Tim

On 20/08/2015 01:00, Nathan Rich thaddeusthudpucker@... [SergentEng] wrote:
So i know an EOT device is strictly not a coupler but they do attach to
couplers. I wonder if anybody would want one mounted on a Sergent
coupler though? As long as the thing is scale sized it could even have a
couple of nubs on the side that slot into the indentations on the side
of the coupler...

Just an idea I had

Nathan

Re: [SergentEng] EOT's

Andrew Wedge
 

I found a few people with broken ring engineering ones, I'm working on making a way to mount them on a Sargent but keeping them removable as I model a switching layout and don't want it on the same car all the time, it won't flash but the way I see it they don't flash during the day anyway


On Aug 19, 2015, at 11:34, TS egroupstuff@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:

 

I plan on doing this one day. Ring Engineering sell a ready made EOT
and theirs is just pre-glued to a Kadee much like you suggest. It might
not be too hard to prise it off and re-glue it to a Sergent. Not much
help to me though, wrong style of EOT and definitely wrong style
of bogie.

Tim

On 20/08/2015 01:00, Nathan Rich thaddeusthudpucker@...
[SergentEng] wrote:
> So i know an EOT device is strictly not a coupler but they do attach to
> couplers. I wonder if anybody would want one mounted on a Sergent
> coupler though? As long as the thing is scale sized it could even have a
> couple of nubs on the side that slot into the indentations on the side
> of the coupler...
>
> Just an idea I had
>
> Nathan

Re: [SergentEng] EOT's

 




 

I plan on doing this one day. Ring Engineering sell a ready made EOT
and theirs is just pre-glued to a Kadee much like you suggest. It might
not be too hard to prise it off and re-glue it to a Sergent. Not much
help to me though, wrong style of EOT and definitely wrong style
of bogie.

Tim

On 20/08/2015 01:00, Nathan Rich thaddeusthudpucker@...
[SergentEng] wrote:
> So i know an EOT device is strictly not a coupler but they do attach to
> couplers. I wonder if anybody would want one mounted on a Sergent
> coupler though? As long as the thing is scale sized it could even have a
> couple of nubs on the side that slot into the indentations on the side
> of the coupler...
>
> Just an idea I had
>
> Nathan


 By EOT do you guys mean ETD (End Of Train Device or FRED (F______ Rear End Device) as we called them back in my conductor days.

Re: [SergentEng] EOT's

Tim L
 

Yes, that's what we're referring to. I guess it all depends on
localisation and interchangeability of the terms. Here we colloquially call them ETM's (End of Train Marker, from the first types that just
flashed a red light) though a lot of devices in use are actually ETAS
(End of Train Air System) or SBU's (Sense and Brake Unit) and not just
a simple flashing light.

Tim

On 20/08/2015 02:18, @lajrmdlr [SergentEng] wrote:
By EOT do you guys mean ETD (End Of Train Device or FRED (F______
Rear End Device) as we called them back in my conductor days.

Re: EOT's

David R. Olsen <drolsen@...>
 

On Aug 19, 2015, at 11:00, Nathan Rich <thaddeusthudpucker@...> wrote:
As long as the thing is scale sized it could even have a couple of nubs on the side that slot into the indentations on the side of the coupler...

I've thought a little about this, and I figured the best way to mount one temporarily (so you're not stuck with a dedicated EOT car) would be to make an L-shaped plug that you could just stick down into the coupler when the knuckle was locked in the closed position. You could bend a short piece of wire at a right angle and drill out a short section of styrene rod to fit over the wire. Pick a size of rod that would fit snugly inside the Sergent knuckle, and you could insert the "plug" into the coupler to mount the EOT.  Depending on what material the EOT device is made of, you could glue or solder the wire plug to the back of it.  Hope that makes sense...

Dave Olsen
Alexandria, VA