Date   
Re: Painting

Nick Gully
 

I follow the instructions on Mr. Sergent's site and it works really well. With the smaller parts I put a loop of low tack masking tape to hold them to the cardboard while i take a few passes in an afternoon with the Rustoleum. When assembling them I "draw" with a #2 pencil on the friction points (top and bottom of the knuckle, inside of the top and bottom of the body.

-Nick

Re: [SergentEng] Painting

Christopher Zurek
 

I haven't built that many of the new no-rust colored ones yet, but I lightly airbrush mine also.

This was also discussed on the Facebook group.

Chris Z.

On 5/25/2015 6:59 PM, Rob Barker robkbarker@... [SergentEng] wrote:
 
I airbrush mine after assembly but avoid spraying into the ball bearing area.

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 4:24 AM, Nathan Rich thaddeusthudpucker@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 

I like that idea, no paint to gum up the works and it's just rust anyway. I just run mine unpainted.


Nathan Rich

On Monday, May 25, 2015, Peter Burr pburr47@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 

I don't paint mine at all, just weather with Pan Pastels.




Re: [SergentEng] Painting

Wayne Snyder
 

Thanks guys, got notified that my bulk pack of couplers are in the mail, maybe get them by this weekend and will see how things go.

Wayne

Sergent Compatibility

Alan Hummel
 

Hello all,

I was doing some experimenting with my Sergent couplers&tried coupling a Sergent lower shelf coupler with a McHenry double shelf-the result was an effortless tie!! I know they work with standard Kadee E couplers,but didn't think they'd work with the Mchenry because of the oversize knuckle. They couple just fine.


I'm replacing all other brands of couplers & going with all Sergent couplers of both the E & F styles,but for modelers who's budgets are cramped,(not that mine isn't to),I thought this bit of knowledge might be a help.


Al Hummel

Re: Sergent Compatibility

Richard McQuade
 

I was looking at the KD site but couldn't find the E couplers. Is that the model name or is listed as something else?

Richard

Re: [SergentEng] Sergent Compatibility

Nathan Rich
 

If you're looking at the Kadee site for couplers I think you're in the wrong place... Try Sergentengineering.com and click on 'Products' then 'Compatible Shank'

Kadee offers a 'scale' coupler, number 58 if I recall correctly, that is easier to stomach than the old #5 but it is nothing compared to the beauty and better operation of the Sergent Engineering coupler. 

That's the closest you'll get to an E coupler from Kadee.

Nathan Rich 

On Thursday, June 4, 2015, richardmcquade@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 

I was looking at the KD site but couldn't find the E couplers. Is that the model name or is listed as something else?

Richard

Re: [SergentEng] Sergent Compatibility

Richard McQuade
 

Thanks Nathan. I have been a happy user of Sergent's for many years and am not at all interested in changing. It was more out of curiosity based on the previous post about compatibility that made me raise the question. For me, nothing beats Sergent's.

Richard

Re: [SergentEng] Sergent Compatibility

Nathan Rich
 

It's really the most bastardized definition of "compatible," I've seen it done with a Kadee "scale head" coupler and a Sergent coupler but the joint is kicked out to the side because the knuckle on the Kadee is so large. People are really better off to use glatzl couplers and get rid of Kadee's post-haste.

That being said, I run conversion cars to pull anything behind that is not Sergent behind my Sergent locomotives in a club setting. My girlfriend's train of weathered cars is still using Kadee's until budget allows for purchase of another bulk pack... I'll get there!

Nathan Rich

On Saturday, June 6, 2015, richardmcquade@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Nathan. I have been a happy user of Sergent's for many years and am not at all interested in changing. It was more out of curiosity based on the previous post about compatibility that made me raise the question. For me, nothing beats Sergent's.

Richard

Intermountain Auto Racks?

Byron Rissetton
 

Hi guys I'm new to the group but I was just wondering has anyone got any experience with the Intermountain Auto Racks, I've put EC87P100K's in them and thinking about glueing the swinging draft gear to the middle! Has anyone done this?

Re: Intermountain Auto Racks?

Josh Baakko
 

I used the 100's as well, and I have not yet glued the coupler pocket.  I'd considering going a more conventional route with later builds, completely removing the system, and shortening up the pocket, similar to what Pelle did in Model Railroader.
Josh

Re: Intermountain Auto Racks?

Byron Rissetton
 

Cool thanks for that I'll check it ou!

Tangent 4750 covered grain hoppers

Alan Hummel
 

I just tried installing SBE couplers to my 1st Tangent 4750.


1st problem.

The coupler post seems just a bit thick though tolerable perhaps the coupler will have to be reamed a bit,ever so slightly.


2nd problem.

A more serious problem is the coupler mounting lid. It secures with a tiny,(for old eyes),mounting screw,almost too tiny to keep track of. I'm considering cutting new threads for a larger,easier to handle screw,say a 1-80 or 2-56. Will this cause the post that holds the coupler to expand? Along with this problem,the screw can't be tightened as it makes the coupler freeze in position,so it must remain more lose than I like. My thoughts here are sketchy short of sanding off some of the inside of the lid or surface around the post in the coupler box to allow the screw to be tightened more & still allow adequate swing on the coupler.


3rd problem.

The center post is larger than many freight cars I've added Sergent Couplers to so far,which will in my opinion not allow room for the spring to be inserted. The only thing I know to do here is shorten the spring. I've not been able to mount a spring yet,they all end up in outer space at warp speed-are they really of that much benefit?

Thanks to all in advance for your help & replies.

Al Hummel

Re: [SergentEng] Tangent 4750 covered grain hoppers

Ryan Harris
 

It is far easier to modify the coupler than the coupler mounting system. Ream the coupler to allow it to fit around post. I use a small, tapered round file. Use a mill file to remove material on both the top and bottom of the shank until the shank moves freely with a secured coupler lid. Alternately, you could remove more material from the top than the bottom of the shank or vice versa to correct a height issue if one exists.


Ryan H
Fort Worth TX 


-------- Original message --------
From: "ahummel72@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...>
Date: 06/16/2015 10:10 (GMT-06:00)
To: SergentEng@...
Subject: [SergentEng] Tangent 4750 covered grain hoppers

 

I just tried installing SBE couplers to my 1st Tangent 4750.


1st problem.

The coupler post seems just a bit thick though tolerable perhaps the coupler will have to be reamed a bit,ever so slightly.


2nd problem.

A more serious problem is the coupler mounting lid. It secures with a tiny,(for old eyes),mounting screw,almost too tiny to keep track of. I'm considering cutting new threads for a larger,easier to handle screw,say a 1-80 or 2-56. Will this cause the post that holds the coupler to expand? Along with this problem,the screw can't be tightened as it makes the coupler freeze in position,so it must remain more lose than I like. My thoughts here are sketchy short of sanding off some of the inside of the lid or surface around the post in the coupler box to allow the screw to be tightened more & still allow adequate swing on the coupler.


3rd problem.

The center post is larger than many freight cars I've added Sergent Couplers to so far,which will in my opinion not allow room for the spring to be inserted. The only thing I know to do here is shorten the spring. I've not been able to mount a spring yet,they all end up in outer space at warp speed-are they really of that much benefit?

Thanks to all in advance for your help & replies.

Al Hummel

Re: [SergentEng] Tangent 4750 covered grain hoppers

Alan Hummel
 

Ryan,
Thank you that makes sense. Thought of that too,but that was before I went to sleep & forgot it.
The coupler height seems right on,on these hoppers the knuckle slides right into the Sergent Height Gauge.

Thanks again.
Al



On Tuesday, June 16, 2015 11:20 AM, "Ryan Harris ryan.harris@... [SergentEng]" wrote:


 
It is far easier to modify the coupler than the coupler mounting system. Ream the coupler to allow it to fit around post. I use a small, tapered round file. Use a mill file to remove material on both the top and bottom of the shank until the shank moves freely with a secured coupler lid. Alternately, you could remove more material from the top than the bottom of the shank or vice versa to correct a height issue if one exists.


Ryan H
Fort Worth TX 


-------- Original message --------
From: "ahummel72@... [SergentEng]"
Date: 06/16/2015 10:10 (GMT-06:00)
To: SergentEng@...
Subject: [SergentEng] Tangent 4750 covered grain hoppers

 
I just tried installing SBE couplers to my 1st Tangent 4750.

1st problem.
The coupler post seems just a bit thick though tolerable perhaps the coupler will have to be reamed a bit,ever so slightly.

2nd problem.
A more serious problem is the coupler mounting lid. It secures with a tiny,(for old eyes),mounting screw,almost too tiny to keep track of. I'm considering cutting new threads for a larger,easier to handle screw,say a 1-80 or 2-56. Will this cause the post that holds the coupler to expand? Along with this problem,the screw can't be tightened as it makes the coupler freeze in position,so it must remain more lose than I like. My thoughts here are sketchy short of sanding off some of the inside of the lid or surface around the post in the coupler box to allow the screw to be tightened more & still allow adequate swing on the coupler.

3rd problem.
The center post is larger than many freight cars I've added Sergent Couplers to so far,which will in my opinion not allow room for the spring to be inserted. The only thing I know to do here is shorten the spring. I've not been able to mount a spring yet,they all end up in outer space at warp speed-are they really of that much benefit?
Thanks to all in advance for your help & replies.
Al Hummel


Re: [SergentEng] Tangent 4750 covered grain hoppers

Ryan Harris
 

You're welcome, Al.

What I do for the coupler spring - and I do consider it necessary - is position the car upside down as close to level as possible, but with the end I'm installing the coupler raised a wee bit. Then I place the spring on the coupler box resting against the center post. I hold the coupler at an angle with the shank top touching the striker plate and the center post opening up above the center post. Then I slide the coupler making sure the rectangular spring opening moves over the spring being careful not to move it. When I have the spring in place, I continue sliding the coupler toward the post with my finger covering the spring. As I compress the spring with my finger over it, the coupler center post opening drops onto the center post and the spring stays in place. Kind of hard to describe, but easy to do. I've lost a couple springs in nearly 300 cars equipped since I figured out this way.

Ryan H
Fort Worth, TX

On 6/16/2015 10:31 AM, Alan Hummel ahummel72@... [SergentEng] wrote:
 
Ryan,
Thank you that makes sense. Thought of that too,but that was before I went to sleep & forgot it.
The coupler height seems right on,on these hoppers the knuckle slides right into the Sergent Height Gauge.

Thanks again.
Al



On Tuesday, June 16, 2015 11:20 AM, "Ryan Harris ryan.harris@... [SergentEng]" wrote:


 
It is far easier to modify the coupler than the coupler mounting system. Ream the coupler to allow it to fit around post. I use a small, tapered round file. Use a mill file to remove material on both the top and bottom of the shank until the shank moves freely with a secured coupler lid. Alternately, you could remove more material from the top than the bottom of the shank or vice versa to correct a height issue if one exists.


Ryan H
Fort Worth TX 


-------- Original message --------
From: "ahummel72@... [SergentEng]"
Date: 06/16/2015 10:10 (GMT-06:00)
To: SergentEng@...
Subject: [SergentEng] Tangent 4750 covered grain hoppers

 
I just tried installing SBE couplers to my 1st Tangent 4750.

1st problem.
The coupler post seems just a bit thick though tolerable perhaps the coupler will have to be reamed a bit,ever so slightly.

2nd problem.
A more serious problem is the coupler mounting lid. It secures with a tiny,(for old eyes),mounting screw,almost too tiny to keep track of. I'm considering cutting new threads for a larger,easier to handle screw,say a 1-80 or 2-56. Will this cause the post that holds the coupler to expand? Along with this problem,the screw can't be tightened as it makes the coupler freeze in position,so it must remain more lose than I like. My thoughts here are sketchy short of sanding off some of the inside of the lid or surface around the post in the coupler box to allow the screw to be tightened more & still allow adequate swing on the coupler.

3rd problem.
The center post is larger than many freight cars I've added Sergent Couplers to so far,which will in my opinion not allow room for the spring to be inserted. The only thing I know to do here is shorten the spring. I've not been able to mount a spring yet,they all end up in outer space at warp speed-are they really of that much benefit?
Thanks to all in advance for your help & replies.
Al Hummel



Re: Tangent 4750 covered grain hoppers

David R. Olsen <drolsen@...>
 

Al, Ryan has a lot more experience installing Sergents than I do, but in case you're interested, I have a few photos here on the Atlas Rescue Forum of an in-progress Tangent PS 4750 equipped with Sergents (this desperately needs to be updated):

http://atlasrescueforum.proboards.com/thread/2572/modeling-csx-4750-covered-hoppers

I'm of the same opinion as Ryan, that it's better to thin down the coupler shank with a large file rather than modify the model's coupler pocket, assuming that it comes out at the right height. I find that the Sergent shank is a little bit too thick for quite a few models these days, maybe because manufacturers moved to the whisker-style couplers (both Kadee and plastic versions) over the past decade and are making the coupler box a little smaller.

On a side note related to the PS 4750, I also find that Sergent's standard coupler seems to stick out too far on many freight cars, I think because most couplers have a larger-than-scale coupler head. Sergents appear to be designed to be the same length from the pulling face to the pivot point (the mounting hole in the shank), but since the head is smaller, it makes the shank look longer. In the case of my model in the link above, I feel like the coupler appears to stick out too far, so I'm going to try the short shank Sergent (SBEC87M040K). I'm going to change it to a lower shelf coupler too, since many CSX 4750s are equipped with them. 0.040" may be too much to shorten it for the Tangent model, but looking at this prototype photo, I think it shouldn't stick out as far as the standard coupler does, so I'm going to try it:

http://drolsen.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=3704325

Good luck with your project!

Dave Olsen

Re: [SergentEng] Re: Tangent 4750 covered grain hoppers

Dale Kritzky
 

On the subject of couplers being too long, I've found that on cars like kadee box cars, the shank is a little short and yes you need to thin the shank down, I want to try the longer shank couplers when they're available again. Dale
Sent from my NOOK

"'David R. Olsen' drolsen@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:

 

Al, Ryan has a lot more experience installing Sergents than I do, but in case you're interested, I have a few photos here on the Atlas Rescue Forum of an in-progress Tangent PS 4750 equipped with Sergents (this desperately needs to be updated):

http://atlasrescueforum.proboards.com/thread/2572/modeling-csx-4750-covered-hoppers

I'm of the same opinion as Ryan, that it's better to thin down the coupler shank with a large file rather than modify the model's coupler pocket, assuming that it comes out at the right height. I find that the Sergent shank is a little bit too thick for quite a few models these days, maybe because manufacturers moved to the whisker-style couplers (both Kadee and plastic versions) over the past decade and are making the coupler box a little smaller.

On a side note related to the PS 4750, I also find that Sergent's standard coupler seems to stick out too far on many freight cars, I think because most couplers have a larger-than-scale coupler head. Sergents appear to be designed to be the same length from the pulling face to the pivot point (the mounting hole in the shank), but since the head is smaller, it makes the shank look longer. In the case of my model in the link above, I feel like the coupler appears to stick out too far, so I'm going to try the short shank Sergent (SBEC87M040K). I'm going to change it to a lower shelf coupler too, since many CSX 4750s are equipped with them. 0.040" may be too much to shorten it for the Tangent model, but looking at this prototype photo, I think it shouldn't stick out as far as the standard coupler does, so I'm going to try it:

http://drolsen.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=3704325

Good luck with your project!

Dave Olsen

We got trouble in River City.

Mike Van Hove
 

Hi:

My original message to Frank at Sergent Engineering, (He suggested I share this problem with you):

I built a bunch of your HO Standard Gauge couplers about a year ago.  I did all the steps as the instructions said and made sure each coupler was given the "Break in"  They all seemed to work just fine.  Then, due to surgery on my foot, I didn't operate the RailRoad all winter.  When I finally got started again, about half of the couplers won't work.  It's almost like they are glued shut.  Is it possible the ACC has migrated to close up the knuckles?  I used as small an amount as possible and, as I said, they all worked just fine, until they sat over the winter.
 
I've tried to put a drop of Liquid Wrench in the opening.  No help.
 
I've squirted a puff of powdered graphite in.  No help.
 
I've tried a small drop of NeoLube.  No help.
 
Only thing that has worked is to disassemble and reassemble the coupler.  That works.  Sort of a pain in the rear to have to do that on half of a 100 car fleet.  VBG
 
Any ideas?
 
I really don't want to redo the entire fleet.  Well, half of the entire fleet.
 
They worked so well before I stopped using them in November.
 
Thanks for any helpful suggestions.

Mike Van Hove

Then, Frank replied:

Your problem with standard gauge couplers isn’t one I think I have heard of before. I would recommend posting to our yahoo group (link on our home page) to see if anyone else has had a similar experience.
 
I don’t think the ACC will migrate over time. One thing that I imagine could happen is that corrosion could build up inside the coupler when not in use and that could keep the ball from lifting and falling properly. If you peer into a stuck coupler when you put the uncoupling wand over it... can you see the ball move up into the top casting? You can see this with a coupler that is operating properly (at least I can with good light and my reading glasses). If the ball doesn’t lift, then there might be corrosion build up in the ball cylinder on the top castings. Corrosion on the zinc castings will be in the form of a white powder on the surface that is typically very easy to remove. If you have a bigger magnet than the ones in the uncoupling wands, you can probably force the ball to come up. Then put the magnet on the bottom of the coupler to force it back down. Once you repeat this a few times the corrosion will be knocked of the critical surfaces as original operation will be restored. I haven’t actually seen this happen – even though I have tried to make it happen by purposely leaving couplers in damp locations for an extended period of time. If you are actually seeing this problem, then I would recommend this big magnet trick. I would also recommend coating the ball cylinder in the top casting and the ball seat in the bottom castings with Neolube prior to assembly (or reassembly as the case may be). The Neolube is a great corrosion inhibitor. One of the reasons I recommend painting the couplers with Rustoleum is that it includes corrosion inhibitors. Even though the Rustoleum is only on the outside surface of the couplers, its ingredients act as a sacrificial electrode to prevent corrosion and that works for the whole part – not just the surface where the paint is applied. Please let me know what you find out and share with the Yahoo group. I’m certain those guys would be very interested in your findings.
 
Thanks,
Frank


Mike writing again:


Okay, I have seen the very light, white, corrosion on some of the couplers.  Perhaps my mistake was in not using Rustoleum, but in using brushed on acrylic craft paints.  I used very little, almost a dry brush, as I didn't want to gum things up.  As I said earlier, they worked just fine last fall.  The problem only came on after they sat all winter, with no usage whatever.  After the foot surgery, I was not allowed to go to the train/work shop for about 6 weeks.  Maybe the water based craft paints absorb water, hence the corrosion?

I love these couplers, and really want to get them back in working order.  Hopefully without having to rebuild the half that won't work.
Been trying the bigger magnet idea from Frank, this afternoon, with only about 50% success.  I have a small magnet that will pick up a 3/4" X 1" x 2" block of steel.  That surely should be enough to loosen one of those .039 diam. balls, you would think.

All suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Mike Van Hove
Columbia, MO

Re: [SergentEng] We got trouble in River City.

jerry via FMW.com
 

Hello Mike,

If you have access to a ultrasonic cleaner it might just remove your corrosion. I had a few couplers that I put lubricant in which only gummed things up. I put the couplers that needed cleaning on a rod so they hung knuckle down so that the ultrasonic cleaner as it cleaned the lubricant out gravity also lowered anything in the coupler down and out of the inside of the coupler. 

You could do several couplers at a time and not have to disassemble them.

Jerry Kitts

On Jun 28, 2015, at 2:35 PM, Mike Van Hove mvanhove@... [SergentEng] wrote:

 

Hi:


My original message to Frank at Sergent Engineering, (He suggested I share this problem with you):

I built a bunch of your HO Standard Gauge couplers about a year ago.  I did all the steps as the instructions said and made sure each coupler was given the "Break in"  They all seemed to work just fine.  Then, due to surgery on my foot, I didn't operate the RailRoad all winter.  When I finally got started again, about half of the couplers won't work.  It's almost like they are glued shut.  Is it possible the ACC has migrated to close up the knuckles?  I used as small an amount as possible and, as I said, they all worked just fine, until they sat over the winter.
 
I've tried to put a drop of Liquid Wrench in the opening.  No help.
 
I've squirted a puff of powdered graphite in.  No help.
 
I've tried a small drop of NeoLube.  No help.
 
Only thing that has worked is to disassemble and reassemble the coupler.  That works.  Sort of a pain in the rear to have to do that on half of a 100 car fleet.  VBG
 
Any ideas?
 
I really don't want to redo the entire fleet.  Well, half of the entire fleet.
 
They worked so well before I stopped using them in November.
 
Thanks for any helpful suggestions.

Mike Van Hove

Jerry Kitts
Foothill Model Works
Visit our web site at
(707) 459-5587



Re: [SergentEng] We got trouble in River City. [1 Attachment]

Mike Van Hove
 

Jerry, yes, I have an ultrasonic cleaner, and I would never have thought of that.
Terrific idea.  I'll give it a shot, tomorrow, and report back.
I might be able to rig up some kind of fixture so I don't even have to take the couplers off the car.  Who knows?
Thanks,
Mike

On Jun 28, 2015, at 6:51 PM, 'jerry via FMW.com' jerrykitts@... [SergentEng] wrote:

 

Hello Mike,


If you have access to a ultrasonic cleaner it might just remove your corrosion. I had a few couplers that I put lubricant in which only gummed things up. I put the couplers that needed cleaning on a rod so they hung knuckle down so that the ultrasonic cleaner as it cleaned the lubricant out gravity also lowered anything in the coupler down and out of the inside of the coupler. 

You could do several couplers at a time and not have to disassemble them.

Jerry Kitts

On Jun 28, 2015, at 2:35 PM, Mike Van Hove mvanhove@... [SergentEng] wrote:

 

Hi:


My original message to Frank at Sergent Engineering, (He suggested I share this problem with you):

I built a bunch of your HO Standard Gauge couplers about a year ago.  I did all the steps as the instructions said and made sure each coupler was given the "Break in"  They all seemed to work just fine.  Then, due to surgery on my foot, I didn't operate the RailRoad all winter.  When I finally got started again, about half of the couplers won't work.  It's almost like they are glued shut.  Is it possible the ACC has migrated to close up the knuckles?  I used as small an amount as possible and, as I said, they all worked just fine, until they sat over the winter.
 
I've tried to put a drop of Liquid Wrench in the opening.  No help.
 
I've squirted a puff of powdered graphite in.  No help.
 
I've tried a small drop of NeoLube.  No help.
 
Only thing that has worked is to disassemble and reassemble the coupler.  That works.  Sort of a pain in the rear to have to do that on half of a 100 car fleet.  VBG
 
Any ideas?
 
I really don't want to redo the entire fleet.  Well, half of the entire fleet.
 
They worked so well before I stopped using them in November.
 
Thanks for any helpful suggestions.

Mike Van Hove

Jerry Kitts
Foothill Model Works
Visit our web site at
(707) 459-5587