Date   
Re: [SergentEng] Re: Need sergent advice !

Matt S
 

Great, thanks!

Re: [SergentEng] Need sergent advice !

Nathan Rich
 

If you are placing your first order, remember to get an assembly fixture and an uncoupling wand!

I can assemble them 5 at a time without a fixture but I've also assembled about 500 couplers by now, I've lost track.

If you have older cars, Sharon couplers are also an option, they will interchange with the E couplers, I like to mix in a few because it provides a little variety.

If you do not feel comfortable with the assembly process, contact me off-list and I can make something happen for you.

Nathan Rich


On Friday, April 22, 2016, sav12man@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 

Great, thanks!

EC87A?

Edward Sutorik
 

Are the EC87A's discontinued?  I don't see them on the website for ordering.




Ed


Edward Sutorik

Re: [SergentEng] EC87A?

Tim L
 

I do remember Frank saying that he was moving away from assembling
couplers and just offering the kits.

If you need assembled ones I'm sure there's plenty of people willing to
do it for you.

Tim

On 27/04/2016 11:28, Edwardsutorik@... [SergentEng] wrote:


Are the EC87A's discontinued? I don't see them on the website for ordering.




Ed


Edward Sutorik

Re: [SergentEng] EC87A?

Edward Sutorik
 

Tim,


I was just trying to put off the inevitable.  I've got all the "makin's"; it's just easier to order a few more assembled ones instead of taking the plunge.


Maybe today's the day.  Well, not today.  It's time for dinner and the intellectual stimulation of television.



Ed


Edward Sutorik

Re: [SergentEng] EC87A?

Andrew
 

Ed
During intellectual television stimulation is the best time, so long as you don't care about what you are watching

Andrew

On Apr 26, 2016, at 10:04 PM, "Edwardsutorik@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:

 

Tim,


I was just trying to put off the inevitable.  I've got all the "makin's"; it's just easier to order a few more assembled ones instead of taking the plunge.


Maybe today's the day.  Well, not today.  It's time for dinner and the intellectual stimulation of television.



Ed


Edward Sutorik

Re: Corrosion on couplers

Mark
 

I know I'm responding quite a bit after the discussion has more or less ended.......but has anyone thought to try using Sanchez no-oxygen product.

It evidently works by not allowing oxcedisation to occur.  People swear by the product to stop oxcedisation of track thereby improving electrical contact.  So just maybe it might protect couples from "rust" build up in lightly used couplers.

Then again it "may" cause couplers to not work at all.

I figure it has got to be worth a try.  Given that we can't get rust oleum in the right colour here in OZ I think we have to find a solution for this problem.

Mark Stafford
Victoria
OZ



Re: Corrosion on couplers

Mark
 

Don't you just love the way some computers "improve" what one has written.

The product is Sanchem no-ox 

Sorry for my computer's interference in what I intended to write.

M
Have a good day guys.


Re: Corrosion on couplers

Michael Graff
 

This must be a humidity issue...
I have unassembled couplers in an open box at my desk, and they show no sign of corrosion.
The white powder mentioned before is probably a zinc residue and as such it is very moisture sensitive.

Re: [SergentEng] Re: Corrosion on couplers

Tim L
 

I'm not so sure that humidity alone was the cause of the problem, it can
get quite humid here and I've not experienced it, assembled or not;
though my assembled couplers seem to get a good amount of graphite in
them when using the pencil.

The white powder is oxidisation, essentially rust for Zinc. The only way
I can think of to get that much oxidisation is a galvanic reaction
between the zinc coupler and stainless steel ball, and given the size
of the ball that's got to be a huge long shot.

Anyway, nice to see another Oz member (from my state to boot) here using
Sergents.

Tim
Land of OZ

On 03/05/2016 18:14, @Graffen [SergentEng] wrote:


This must be a humidity issue...
I have unassembled couplers in an open box at my desk, and they show no
sign of corrosion.
The white powder mentioned before is probably a zinc residue and as such
it is very moisture sensitive.

Re: [SergentEng] Re: Corrosion on couplers

Jason McKee <jdmkee@...>
 

Funny, i haven't had a problem with oxidisation with my sergents and i am in Queensland, i don't do anything different from what i have seen other doing,  mind you i haven't got my new non painted ones built, so maybe that has got something to do with it

 

Jason

Brisbane

 

From: SergentEng@... [mailto:SergentEng@...]
Sent: Wednesday, 4 May 2016 12:23 AM
To: SergentEng@...
Subject: Re: [SergentEng] Re: Corrosion on couplers

 

 

I'm not so sure that humidity alone was the cause of the problem, it can
get quite humid here and I've not experienced it, assembled or not;
though my assembled couplers seem to get a good amount of graphite in
them when using the pencil.

The white powder is oxidisation, essentially rust for Zinc. The only way
I can think of to get that much oxidisation is a galvanic reaction
between the zinc coupler and stainless steel ball, and given the size
of the ball that's got to be a huge long shot.

Anyway, nice to see another Oz member (from my state to boot) here using
Sergents.

Tim
Land of OZ

On 03/05/2016 18:14, michael.graff@... [SergentEng] wrote:
>
>
> This must be a humidity issue...
> I have unassembled couplers in an open box at my desk, and they show no
> sign of corrosion.
> The white powder mentioned before is probably a zinc residue and as such
> it is very moisture sensitive.

Re: Corrosion on couplers

Dave Snyder
 

Mark, I would think that any spray can automotive primer paint would coat the Sergents and inhibit any further oxidation. And even Rust-Oleum doesnt remove the oxidation, it just binds to it. The NoOx is a grease like substance that I have tried with mixed results on rail and wheel wipers, etc.
It really did not remove oxidation well and polishing the rail before application gave the longest lasting results. I doubt paint would adhere to it
well because of its petroleum properties.

Dave Snyder
Louisville, Ky.

Re: Corrosion on couplers

Talmadge C 'TC' Carr
 

Expansive stuff$

Found a good price here
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sanchem-Inc-NO-OX-ID-A-Special-Rust-Preventive-Two-8oz-Tubes/262407458810?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35389%26meid%3D06332c7f93664f73be5aa23c76000c39%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D290897005057>

TCC:}
Tocson
 

Re: Corrosion on couplers

Mark
 

Hi Dave.

Thanks for your reply.  

I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong.....but it is my current understanding is that ruskolium is a product that uniquely has some sort of propitiates that make it much better than just using a generic automotive undercoat for these couplers.  It somehow acts as a anode and is not just a covering for the metal.

Secondly it is again my understanding that when you paint the couplers the instructions require not painting the operational surfaces so as not to interfere with the fine tolerances involved.

What I had envisaged was first painting as specified in the instructions then brushing a tiny amount of No-Ox on those working surfaces.  Ensuring I get off as much of the No-Ox  off the coupler before final assembly.  

Using No-Ox "may" protect the unpainted portions of the coupler.

Mark

Ps that ebay No-Ox seems cheap, thanks for the heads up.

Re: Corrosion on couplers

Dave Snyder
 

Mark, I wasn't suggesting that you spray paint the operational surfaces of the couplers. I was going by Frank Sergents recommendations for
rattlecan spraying the couplers, check his website. Per the Rust-Oleum website, what started as a fish/whale oil additive to paint to the modern
conglomerate is an amazing journey that doesn't readily disclose the chemical complexities of their products, trade secrets I suppose. Maybe you would share your results with us as you progress, I'm always open to enlightenment.

Dave Snyder
Louisville, Ky.  Derby day is imminent. 

Assembly step 1, knuckle flash

Andrew
 

What is the easiest way to perform step 1 on the knuckle?

Andrew

Re: [SergentEng] Assembly step 1, knuckle flash

Jeff Young
 

X-acto knife (or even better a scalpel) and one of those magnifying fluorescent ring lights.  (Well, I don’t know about “easiest”, but that’s how I do them anyway.  In my experience you won’t find any flash on about 80% of them, but you still need to do the step for the 1 in 5 that does have some.)

Cheers,
Jeff.

On 5 May 2016, at 13:36, Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:

What is the easiest way to perform step 1 on the knuckle?  

Andrew


Re: [SergentEng] Assembly step 1, knuckle flash

Andrew
 

Jeff and all,

I should have been more specific with my original question.   How do you hold the knuckle while scraping the flash off of it?

Andrew

On May 6, 2016, at 7:10 AM, "Jeff Young jeff@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:

 

X-acto knife (or even better a scalpel) and one of those magnifying fluorescent ring lights.  (Well, I don’t know about “easiest”, but that’s how I do them anyway.  In my experience you won’t find any flash on about 80% of them, but you still need to do the step for the 1 in 5 that does have some.)


Cheers,
Jeff.

On 5 May 2016, at 13:36, Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:

What is the easiest way to perform step 1 on the knuckle?  

Andrew


Re: [SergentEng] Assembly step 1, knuckle flash

Darren Boes
 

I always hook the pulling face under the fingernail on my left index finger, so I can wield the xacto knife in my right hand with the correct portion of the knuckle facing up. I'm righthanded though, not sure how a southpaw would do it.

Darren Boes 

On Sat, May 7, 2016 at 1:27 AM, Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng]
wrote:
 

Jeff and all,

I should have been more specific with my original question.   How do you hold the knuckle while scraping the flash off of it?

Andrew

On May 6, 2016, at 7:10 AM, "Jeff Young jeff@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:

 

X-acto knife (or even better a scalpel) and one of those magnifying fluorescent ring lights.  (Well, I don’t know about “easiest”, but that’s how I do them anyway.  In my experience you won’t find any flash on about 80% of them, but you still need to do the step for the 1 in 5 that does have some.)


Cheers,
Jeff.

On 5 May 2016, at 13:36, Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:

What is the easiest way to perform step 1 on the knuckle?  

Andrew


Re: [SergentEng] Assembly step 1, knuckle flash

Tim L
 

I too normally just hold it between thumb and forefinger. It is a bit
awkward until you get used to it but it isn't too bad.

Something I'm going to try is drilling a shallow hole the "diameter"
and depth-to-tang of the knuckle in a piece of wood or something, then
I can just place the knuckle in the hole (the tang resting on the piece
of wood) and then I can just use light finger pressure to hold it there
to clean up the tang.

Tim

On 07/05/2016 17:27, Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng] wrote:


Jeff and all,

I should have been more specific with my original question. How do you
hold the knuckle while scraping the flash off of it?

Andrew

On May 6, 2016, at 7:10 AM, "Jeff Young jeff@...
<mailto:jeff@...> [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...
<mailto:SergentEng@...>> wrote:



X-acto knife (or even better a scalpel) and one of those magnifying
fluorescent ring lights. (Well, I don’t know about “easiest”, but
that’s how I do them anyway. In my experience you won’t find any
flash on about 80% of them, but you still need to do the step for the
1 in 5 that does have some.)


Cheers,
Jeff.

On 5 May 2016, at 13:36, Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@...
<mailto:ihtsbih_2014@...> [SergentEng]
<SergentEng@... <mailto:SergentEng@...>> wrote:

What is the easiest way to perform step 1 on the knuckle?

Andrew