Date   
Re: Membership

L. J. Casey
 

is this method easier than using the assembly jig?    my eyes are starting to slow down, and last time I tried to assemble some, I got a little frustrated and quit like usual.

LJCasey
Maryville,IL

Virus-free. www.avast.com


On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 4:30 PM Rob Barker <robkbarker@...> wrote:
+1 on the thumb/finger over trick.  I *seems* like it would *never* work but once you get the hang of it, after two or three couplers, it's amazing how well it actually works!

And that said there are still conversions where you can't get your thumb in, and then I usually give a tweezers/knife combo approach a go but if they aren't cooperating I just skip the spring :-)

Rob

On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 1:36 AM Tim L <tim@...> wrote:
I use the method given in the first Installation Tip
(InterMountain/Tichy Single Sheathed Box Car) on the Sergents website.
Amazing how well this method works. It's a bit more difficult when a
molded on coupler box doesn't have a flat top, like the Proto2000 Type
21 Tank Car (Installation Tip 8) but even then "finger-over" method can
work. I can't link directly to the tip, Franks site sill uses Frames
(for shame Frank) but just go to Instructions Etc on the Sergent website
and scroll down the the Installation Tips link.

- Tim



On 04/01/2019 11:00, Nick Brown wrote:
> I have been an HOn3 modeler for more than 40 years.  I've always used
> Kay Dee couplers.  I was inspired to try Sergents by articles in the
> HOn3 annuals but only got the proverbial 'round to it' a few days ago.   
> I'm wondering how anyone keeps those little springs from flying away. 
> I'm trying a method that doesn't use springs.   Hope it works.





--
Loren (LJ) Casey
Maryville,IL

--
Loren Casey
Maryville, IL

Re: Membership

Rob Barker
 

+1 on the thumb/finger over trick.  I *seems* like it would *never* work but once you get the hang of it, after two or three couplers, it's amazing how well it actually works!

And that said there are still conversions where you can't get your thumb in, and then I usually give a tweezers/knife combo approach a go but if they aren't cooperating I just skip the spring :-)

Rob

On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 1:36 AM Tim L <tim@...> wrote:
I use the method given in the first Installation Tip
(InterMountain/Tichy Single Sheathed Box Car) on the Sergents website.
Amazing how well this method works. It's a bit more difficult when a
molded on coupler box doesn't have a flat top, like the Proto2000 Type
21 Tank Car (Installation Tip 8) but even then "finger-over" method can
work. I can't link directly to the tip, Franks site sill uses Frames
(for shame Frank) but just go to Instructions Etc on the Sergent website
and scroll down the the Installation Tips link.

- Tim



On 04/01/2019 11:00, Nick Brown wrote:
> I have been an HOn3 modeler for more than 40 years.  I've always used
> Kay Dee couplers.  I was inspired to try Sergents by articles in the
> HOn3 annuals but only got the proverbial 'round to it' a few days ago.   
> I'm wondering how anyone keeps those little springs from flying away. 
> I'm trying a method that doesn't use springs.   Hope it works.



Re: Membership

roblmclear
 

That's what I do as well Ed, seems simple to me and I learned it putting Kadee springs back into the coupler heads.   Very rarely do I loose a spring and when I sweep the floor around the workbench they always seem to turn up :-) 

Rob McLear
Aussie.

Re: Membership

Edward Sutorik
 

I put the springs in with an X-acto blade.  I put the pointy end of either a #16 or the pointy one between the coils.  Then I can pick up the spring and put it in the slot/hole.  I rarely lose a spring doing it this way.  I started with this method back when we had to build up our own trucks--placing 4 springs in each one.

If/when I get where it's just too difficult to get the spring in, I'll leave it out.  I do like that the spring keeps the coupler from wiggling, but it's not really that big a deal to me.


Ed

Edward Sutorik

Re: Membership

Nick Brown
 

After all the springs I had flown away I cut a tiny piece of foam rubber to use in place of the spring.  It provides a little friction to keep the coupler from swinging too easily.  Just leaving out the springs seems like the best idea.   I'll decide once I have a little experience operating with the new couplers.

Thanks for all the replies
Nick

Re: Membership

crg21@comcast.net
 

I use a KaDee spring pic. Once I get the spring in the slot I use a small screwdriver to hold it there while removing the pic.

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE device

Re: Membership

Robert Margerum
 

Never use the centering springs too much fiddling for me 



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

-------- Original message --------
From: Andy Jackson <lajrmdlr@...>
Date: 2019-01-03 11:44 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: SergentEngineering@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Sergent Engineering] Membership

At least Sergents don't weigh 75 lb, so quit complaining about moving it by finger or a stick!
Andy Jackson
Santa Fe Springs CA




On Thu, Jan 3, 2019 at 8:37 PM Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:
Yup Andrew, me either. Unless you want them to work like Kadee 714's with the trip pins removed. To me that is like a GIANT step backwards with Sergents. I designed a coupler box that would do this centering chore for Sergents and I sell it on Shapeways. Sales have been very slow. It was not a project  that wanted for myself. Rather, I did it as a project to see if there was really a large interest in this whole coupler centering thing. For myself, I use prototypical coupling practices. My grandfather and his father were Switchmen. What grandad taught me about car movements and the coupling of cars to trains works just fine with Sergent Couplers. Nuff said.

Dale 

On Thu, Jan 3, 2019 at 8:10 PM ihtsbih_2014 via Groups.Io <ihtsbih_2014=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Dale,

I seen people mention that.  To me it ruins the whole point of having Sergent couplers.  I don’t get the automatic centering thought process.

Andrew

Re: Membership

Tim L
 

I use the method given in the first Installation Tip (InterMountain/Tichy Single Sheathed Box Car) on the Sergents website. Amazing how well this method works. It's a bit more difficult when a molded on coupler box doesn't have a flat top, like the Proto2000 Type 21 Tank Car (Installation Tip 8) but even then "finger-over" method can work. I can't link directly to the tip, Franks site sill uses Frames (for shame Frank) but just go to Instructions Etc on the Sergent website and scroll down the the Installation Tips link.

- Tim

On 04/01/2019 11:00, Nick Brown wrote:
I have been an HOn3 modeler for more than 40 years.  I've always used Kay Dee couplers.  I was inspired to try Sergents by articles in the HOn3 annuals but only got the proverbial 'round to it' a few days ago. I'm wondering how anyone keeps those little springs from flying away. I'm trying a method that doesn't use springs.   Hope it works.

Re: Membership

Nick Gully
 

For centering springs, I  skewer them on one side of a pair of needle nose tweezers, gently holding them in place with the other tong. I then point the tip into the void where the spring
belongs. With a small flat-bladed screwdriver, I keep the spring in the hole while withdrawing the tweezer blade and pressing it down so that pressure keeps it between the coupler and the pivot point. After that I slowly remove the screwdriver, and place the cover on the coupler box.

 

Best Regards,
 Nick Gully

Re: Membership

Dale Kritzky
 

I brag all the time about using Sergents and the centering question always comes up, the problem is the Kadee mentality, everybody is so set in their ways that their too afraid to try Sergents or they can't handle the extra 1 second of planning that it takes to use the Sergents.



On January 3, 2019, at 11:37 PM, Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:


Yup Andrew, me either. Unless you want them to work like Kadee 714's with the trip pins removed. To me that is like a GIANT step backwards with Sergents. I designed a coupler box that would do this centering chore for Sergents and I sell it on Shapeways. Sales have been very slow. It was not a project  that wanted for myself. Rather, I did it as a project to see if there was really a large interest in this whole coupler centering thing. For myself, I use prototypical coupling practices. My grandfather and his father were Switchmen. What grandad taught me about car movements and the coupling of cars to trains works just fine with Sergent Couplers. Nuff said.

Dale 

On Thu, Jan 3, 2019 at 8:10 PM ihtsbih_2014 via Groups.Io <ihtsbih_2014=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Dale,

I seen people mention that.  To me it ruins the whole point of having Sergent couplers.  I don’t get the automatic centering thought process.

Andrew

Re: Membership

 

At least Sergents don't weigh 75 lb, so quit complaining about moving it by finger or a stick!
Andy Jackson
Santa Fe Springs CA




On Thu, Jan 3, 2019 at 8:37 PM Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:
Yup Andrew, me either. Unless you want them to work like Kadee 714's with the trip pins removed. To me that is like a GIANT step backwards with Sergents. I designed a coupler box that would do this centering chore for Sergents and I sell it on Shapeways. Sales have been very slow. It was not a project  that wanted for myself. Rather, I did it as a project to see if there was really a large interest in this whole coupler centering thing. For myself, I use prototypical coupling practices. My grandfather and his father were Switchmen. What grandad taught me about car movements and the coupling of cars to trains works just fine with Sergent Couplers. Nuff said.

Dale 

On Thu, Jan 3, 2019 at 8:10 PM ihtsbih_2014 via Groups.Io <ihtsbih_2014=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Dale,

I seen people mention that.  To me it ruins the whole point of having Sergent couplers.  I don’t get the automatic centering thought process.

Andrew

Re: Membership

Dale Buxton
 

Yup Andrew, me either. Unless you want them to work like Kadee 714's with the trip pins removed. To me that is like a GIANT step backwards with Sergents. I designed a coupler box that would do this centering chore for Sergents and I sell it on Shapeways. Sales have been very slow. It was not a project  that wanted for myself. Rather, I did it as a project to see if there was really a large interest in this whole coupler centering thing. For myself, I use prototypical coupling practices. My grandfather and his father were Switchmen. What grandad taught me about car movements and the coupling of cars to trains works just fine with Sergent Couplers. Nuff said.

Dale 


On Thu, Jan 3, 2019 at 8:10 PM ihtsbih_2014 via Groups.Io <ihtsbih_2014=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Dale,

I seen people mention that.  To me it ruins the whole point of having Sergent couplers.  I don’t get the automatic centering thought process.

Andrew

Re: Membership

Andrew
 

Dale,

I seen people mention that.  To me it ruins the whole point of having Sergent couplers.  I don’t get the automatic centering thought process.

Andrew

Re: Membership

Dale Buxton
 

You don’t have to have the springs in there you know. They are only there to keep the coupler in specific position for coupling.  I personally don’t use the springs and they work fine for me without them.

There is a school of thought that Sergents need to modified to automatically center the couplers. I personally don’t see the need. To each their own I guess.

Dale




On Thursday, January 3, 2019, 17:00, Nick Brown <nsbrown455@...> wrote:

I have been an HOn3 modeler for more than 40 years.  I've always used Kay Dee couplers.  I was inspired to try Sergents by articles in the HOn3 annuals but only got the proverbial 'round to it' a few days ago.   I'm wondering how anyone keeps those little springs from flying away.  I'm trying a method that doesn't use springs.   Hope it works. 

Nick Brown, Boise, Idaho

Re: Membership

Andrew
 

 Nick,

I use a magnetized set of tweezers to pick up the spring.  I insert the tweezers inside the circular end of the spring then slide the spring against the mounting post in the coupler box.  I use a toothpick  or the wooden dowel that comes with the starter pack to slide the spring off the tweezers and push it down level. 

I only use a spring if the coupler feels loose in its side to side motion.

Ive had about a 90% success rate with this method.   YMMV.

Andrew

Membership

Nick Brown
 

I have been an HOn3 modeler for more than 40 years.  I've always used Kay Dee couplers.  I was inspired to try Sergents by articles in the HOn3 annuals but only got the proverbial 'round to it' a few days ago.   I'm wondering how anyone keeps those little springs from flying away.  I'm trying a method that doesn't use springs.   Hope it works. 

Nick Brown, Boise, Idaho

Rivarossi Heisler conversion.

Andrew
 

Has anyone installed Sergent couplers on a Rivarossi Heisler.  Has anyone used the metal coupler pocket for this conversion?

Thank you

Andrew

Re: n-2-a couplers

Markus Nee
 

The closest I've been able to find are Japanese-prototype Shibata couplers from Kato and Tomix, which look more like Scharfenberg couplers than N-2-A. They're quite a bit oversized in Japanese HO (1/80), and the Tomix and Kato couplers don't seem to be compatible with each other so you'd need to pick a brand and stick with it. For subway cars and light rail, you might be able to use their N scale versions as stand-ins for HO Tomlinson couplers.

I'd also be interested in some prototypical N-2-A couplers of Sergent quality. It seems like they would require quite a bit of development work.

Markus


On Fri, Dec 21, 2018 at 2:48 PM Martin Matsil via Groups.Io <martinmatsil1953=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
any one make couplers like the n-2 A type used on  the LIRR,mu cars,would be great for all trains.!

n-2-a couplers

Martin Matsil
 

any one make couplers like the n-2 A type used on  the LIRR,mu cars,would be great for all trains.!

Re: Coupler stock

Logan Thurman
 

Welp, I know the feeling all to well. I've been rebuilding my 3d Printer for the past two years and now I wish I could just get a new one, I've been trying to get wax models for my Brass and Steel hybrid GS-3 4-8-4 I've been trying to get started in the casting process of the Frame and other required parts for it.


On Tue, Dec 11, 2018 at 2:35 AM Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:
Oh Investment casting certainly can and does use injection molded waxes! Look at these examples. The youtube vid is pretty self explanatory.



https://www.milwaukeeprec.com/investment-castings.html?pmc=BC 1&_vsrefdom=ppcbing&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=iso%20%2Bcastings&utm_campaign=Investment%20Casting&utm_content=Iso%20Investment%20Casting

Dale Buxton

On Mon, Dec 10, 2018 at 6:19 PM Edward Sutorik via Groups.Io <Edwardsutorik=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Investment casting doesn't use injection molding equipment.

Reading this article:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Investment_casting

there is a comment:  "In recent years the production of patterns using 3D printing has become popular...in which case one goes directly to step 5."  From step 1.  So, Steps 2, 3, and 4 can be skipped.  What the 3D element does is make it quite a bit easier to produce the wax patterns.  However, Cal Scale was making wonderful investment castings YEARS ago without 3D printing.  And Kemtron before them.

I believe the earlier investment cast Sergent parts were done using steps 2-3-4.  And I believe that Frank is either getting very tired of dealing with steps 2-3-4, and/or he's yearning to cut the costs of using steps 2-3-4.

Since 3D printing is mentioned in the article, it has obviously been in substantial usage.  So it's not like Frank is going where no one has gone before.  But there might very well be start-up expenses.  And start-up mistakes.  But I doubt that it's anywhere near impossible.  Maybe just too expensive.  Or irritating.


Ed

Edward Sutorik