Date   
Any Spare Couplers lying around?!?

John Degnan
 

Group,


Due to the production issues currently afoot at our favorite coupler manufacturer, I am looking for anyone out there who might have a stash of spare S SCALE - EC64K couplers you'd be willing to part with.


If so, this could be a good $$$ day for you!  Please contact me, and let's make a deal.  I'll gladly buy ALL you're willing to part with!  My e-mail address is below...



John Degnan

Scaler164@...


Re: Coupler stock

Todd Fisher
 

Thank you Frank for that update. I am glad to at least hear it from you that it ain't over yet. I truly hope to see them all back in stock soon. In the meantime I will continue to build the ones I currently have. Thank you again and I hope all is well with you. 


On Thu, Feb 7, 2019, 10:33 PM Frank Sergent <fsergent@...> wrote:
Hi Todd, et al,
 
So far I have found no solution for manufacturing the investment cast items. I have not given up completely. However, the whole thing is pretty discouraging and I’m not dedicating as much time as I did to finding the solution. I have recently had some personal issues pop up that require a lot of my attention too and to be honest, those take priority. I do feel like these will eventually be available again, but I really just can’t say when. In the meantime, I encourage any willing soul to download the designs and give it go. If you can get these to print (currently I can not), the hard part is done.
 
Something I should clarify is that the die cast items are in a much better situation. You may have noticed that the bulk packs (EC87KB and SBE87KB) are currently listed as out of stock as well. However, there are more of those on the way soon.
 
Frank
 
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2019 6:31 PM
Subject: [Sergent Engineering] Coupler stock
 
Still no news on stock availability for long shank and type F couplers? Really hoping this isn't the end for them especially how popular theyve become now. I've got almost all my fleet done except for my cushion cars and coal cars requiring type F's.

Re: Coupler stock

Frank Sergent
 

Hi Todd, et al,
 
So far I have found no solution for manufacturing the investment cast items. I have not given up completely. However, the whole thing is pretty discouraging and I’m not dedicating as much time as I did to finding the solution. I have recently had some personal issues pop up that require a lot of my attention too and to be honest, those take priority. I do feel like these will eventually be available again, but I really just can’t say when. In the meantime, I encourage any willing soul to download the designs and give it go. If you can get these to print (currently I can not), the hard part is done.
 
Something I should clarify is that the die cast items are in a much better situation. You may have noticed that the bulk packs (EC87KB and SBE87KB) are currently listed as out of stock as well. However, there are more of those on the way soon.
 
Frank
 

Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2019 6:31 PM
Subject: [Sergent Engineering] Coupler stock
 
Still no news on stock availability for long shank and type F couplers? Really hoping this isn't the end for them especially how popular theyve become now. I've got almost all my fleet done except for my cushion cars and coal cars requiring type F's.

Need coupler assembly

Peter York
 

I'm looking for someone to paint and assemble up to 500 pairs of couplers for me. Price is completely negotiable. If interested please contact me at peterdyork@.... Thanks!

Coupler stock

Todd Fisher
 

Still no news on stock availability for long shank and type F couplers? Really hoping this isn't the end for them especially how popular theyve become now. I've got almost all my fleet done except for my cushion cars and coal cars requiring type F's. 

Re: Membership

David Colvin
 

Hi all.  Been lurking, but decided to join.  I actually glue the spring into the coupler before assembling into the coupler box.  Worked like a charm and they don't fly off.  I'm 50/50 on whether to keep using the springs as others have mentioned.

Re: Couplers lock up and won’t close.

Markus Nee
 

Yes! I've had that happen, too. Sometimes the arm on the back of the knuckle wears down or the end breaks off, and it no longer hits the stop inside the coupler head. When this happens, the knuckle can open too far and allow the ball bearing to fall back down on the wrong side of the arm, locking the knuckle in the open position. Flipping it upside down, or using the magnetic wand will pull the bearing back out and allow you to close it, but truly fixing it usually means disassembling and replacing the knuckle.

Markus



On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 1:28 PM Rob Briney <drgw4ever@...> wrote:

I have been using Sergent Couplers for several years now. From time to time I will have one that refuses to close. If I take it and turn it upside down it will open just fine. I will usually take it off soak it in Acetone   then clean and examine it before reassembling it. Sometimes the cleaning doesn’t work and sometimes it does. I have had a few that this has happened to right after  removing them from the assembly fixture.

Does anyone know what causes this? 

Rob Briney 

 

Couplers lock up and won’t close.

Rob Briney
 

I have been using Sergent Couplers for several years now. From time to time I will have one that refuses to close. If I take it and turn it upside down it will open just fine. I will usually take it off soak it in Acetone   then clean and examine it before reassembling it. Sometimes the cleaning doesn’t work and sometimes it does. I have had a few that this has happened to right after  removing them from the assembly fixture.

Does anyone know what causes this? 

Rob Briney 

 

Sergents For Life!

Colin O'Brien
 

Hello,

I'm a 33 year old HO scale modeler from Iowa who discovered Sergent couplers after reading about Pelle Søeborg's experience in Model Railroader. I have been a fan ever since and have managed to convert a few friends as well. 

I hope the group can help provide tips and techniques to ensure my Sergents are functional for years to come!

Thank you,
Colin O'Brien

About myself

Paul Thomson
 

Hi,
I have been a model railroader for over 40 years, and a few years ago began
updating my modeling to add realism and satisfaction from improvements in this
hobby.
Part of that was adding Sergent couplers and semi-scale wheels. I have refined
my modeling and found Sergent couplers added one of the final dimensions in
progressing to added detail with operation.
Paul Thomson

Frank Sergent

Todd Fisher
 

Frank if you get this if you don't care check your inbox please I sent you an email. 

Re: Membership

Rob Barker
 

The finger method is for getting the springs in the coupler box - you sort of mash the coupler and spring between your thumb and fingers and slide them into the box at the same time.   For coupler assembly, tweezers are needed!

For the last two years or so an Optiviser has become my number one most used tool...  Used to only need it for the finest of work but now... pretty much goes on my head whenever I sit down to the workbench.

On Mon, Jan 7, 2019 at 1:06 PM L. J. Casey <ljcasey1@...> wrote:
is this method easier than using the assembly jig?    my eyes are starting to slow down, and last time I tried to assemble some, I got a little frustrated and quit like usual.

LJCasey
Maryville,IL

Virus-free. www.avast.com

On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 4:30 PM Rob Barker <robkbarker@...> wrote:
+1 on the thumb/finger over trick.  I *seems* like it would *never* work but once you get the hang of it, after two or three couplers, it's amazing how well it actually works!

And that said there are still conversions where you can't get your thumb in, and then I usually give a tweezers/knife combo approach a go but if they aren't cooperating I just skip the spring :-)

Rob

On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 1:36 AM Tim L <tim@...> wrote:
I use the method given in the first Installation Tip
(InterMountain/Tichy Single Sheathed Box Car) on the Sergents website.
Amazing how well this method works. It's a bit more difficult when a
molded on coupler box doesn't have a flat top, like the Proto2000 Type
21 Tank Car (Installation Tip 8) but even then "finger-over" method can
work. I can't link directly to the tip, Franks site sill uses Frames
(for shame Frank) but just go to Instructions Etc on the Sergent website
and scroll down the the Installation Tips link.

- Tim



On 04/01/2019 11:00, Nick Brown wrote:
> I have been an HOn3 modeler for more than 40 years.  I've always used
> Kay Dee couplers.  I was inspired to try Sergents by articles in the
> HOn3 annuals but only got the proverbial 'round to it' a few days ago.   
> I'm wondering how anyone keeps those little springs from flying away. 
> I'm trying a method that doesn't use springs.   Hope it works.





--
Loren (LJ) Casey
Maryville,IL

--
Loren Casey
Maryville, IL

Re: Membership

L. J. Casey
 

is this method easier than using the assembly jig?    my eyes are starting to slow down, and last time I tried to assemble some, I got a little frustrated and quit like usual.

LJCasey
Maryville,IL

Virus-free. www.avast.com


On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 4:30 PM Rob Barker <robkbarker@...> wrote:
+1 on the thumb/finger over trick.  I *seems* like it would *never* work but once you get the hang of it, after two or three couplers, it's amazing how well it actually works!

And that said there are still conversions where you can't get your thumb in, and then I usually give a tweezers/knife combo approach a go but if they aren't cooperating I just skip the spring :-)

Rob

On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 1:36 AM Tim L <tim@...> wrote:
I use the method given in the first Installation Tip
(InterMountain/Tichy Single Sheathed Box Car) on the Sergents website.
Amazing how well this method works. It's a bit more difficult when a
molded on coupler box doesn't have a flat top, like the Proto2000 Type
21 Tank Car (Installation Tip 8) but even then "finger-over" method can
work. I can't link directly to the tip, Franks site sill uses Frames
(for shame Frank) but just go to Instructions Etc on the Sergent website
and scroll down the the Installation Tips link.

- Tim



On 04/01/2019 11:00, Nick Brown wrote:
> I have been an HOn3 modeler for more than 40 years.  I've always used
> Kay Dee couplers.  I was inspired to try Sergents by articles in the
> HOn3 annuals but only got the proverbial 'round to it' a few days ago.   
> I'm wondering how anyone keeps those little springs from flying away. 
> I'm trying a method that doesn't use springs.   Hope it works.





--
Loren (LJ) Casey
Maryville,IL

--
Loren Casey
Maryville, IL

Re: Membership

Rob Barker
 

+1 on the thumb/finger over trick.  I *seems* like it would *never* work but once you get the hang of it, after two or three couplers, it's amazing how well it actually works!

And that said there are still conversions where you can't get your thumb in, and then I usually give a tweezers/knife combo approach a go but if they aren't cooperating I just skip the spring :-)

Rob

On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 1:36 AM Tim L <tim@...> wrote:
I use the method given in the first Installation Tip
(InterMountain/Tichy Single Sheathed Box Car) on the Sergents website.
Amazing how well this method works. It's a bit more difficult when a
molded on coupler box doesn't have a flat top, like the Proto2000 Type
21 Tank Car (Installation Tip 8) but even then "finger-over" method can
work. I can't link directly to the tip, Franks site sill uses Frames
(for shame Frank) but just go to Instructions Etc on the Sergent website
and scroll down the the Installation Tips link.

- Tim



On 04/01/2019 11:00, Nick Brown wrote:
> I have been an HOn3 modeler for more than 40 years.  I've always used
> Kay Dee couplers.  I was inspired to try Sergents by articles in the
> HOn3 annuals but only got the proverbial 'round to it' a few days ago.   
> I'm wondering how anyone keeps those little springs from flying away. 
> I'm trying a method that doesn't use springs.   Hope it works.



Re: Membership

roblmclear
 

That's what I do as well Ed, seems simple to me and I learned it putting Kadee springs back into the coupler heads.   Very rarely do I loose a spring and when I sweep the floor around the workbench they always seem to turn up :-) 

Rob McLear
Aussie.

Re: Membership

Edward Sutorik
 

I put the springs in with an X-acto blade.  I put the pointy end of either a #16 or the pointy one between the coils.  Then I can pick up the spring and put it in the slot/hole.  I rarely lose a spring doing it this way.  I started with this method back when we had to build up our own trucks--placing 4 springs in each one.

If/when I get where it's just too difficult to get the spring in, I'll leave it out.  I do like that the spring keeps the coupler from wiggling, but it's not really that big a deal to me.


Ed

Edward Sutorik

Re: Membership

Nick Brown
 

After all the springs I had flown away I cut a tiny piece of foam rubber to use in place of the spring.  It provides a little friction to keep the coupler from swinging too easily.  Just leaving out the springs seems like the best idea.   I'll decide once I have a little experience operating with the new couplers.

Thanks for all the replies
Nick

Re: Membership

crg21@comcast.net
 

I use a KaDee spring pic. Once I get the spring in the slot I use a small screwdriver to hold it there while removing the pic.

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE device

Re: Membership

Robert Margerum
 

Never use the centering springs too much fiddling for me 



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

-------- Original message --------
From: Andy Jackson <lajrmdlr@...>
Date: 2019-01-03 11:44 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: SergentEngineering@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Sergent Engineering] Membership

At least Sergents don't weigh 75 lb, so quit complaining about moving it by finger or a stick!
Andy Jackson
Santa Fe Springs CA




On Thu, Jan 3, 2019 at 8:37 PM Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:
Yup Andrew, me either. Unless you want them to work like Kadee 714's with the trip pins removed. To me that is like a GIANT step backwards with Sergents. I designed a coupler box that would do this centering chore for Sergents and I sell it on Shapeways. Sales have been very slow. It was not a project  that wanted for myself. Rather, I did it as a project to see if there was really a large interest in this whole coupler centering thing. For myself, I use prototypical coupling practices. My grandfather and his father were Switchmen. What grandad taught me about car movements and the coupling of cars to trains works just fine with Sergent Couplers. Nuff said.

Dale 

On Thu, Jan 3, 2019 at 8:10 PM ihtsbih_2014 via Groups.Io <ihtsbih_2014=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Dale,

I seen people mention that.  To me it ruins the whole point of having Sergent couplers.  I don’t get the automatic centering thought process.

Andrew

Re: Membership

Tim L
 

I use the method given in the first Installation Tip (InterMountain/Tichy Single Sheathed Box Car) on the Sergents website. Amazing how well this method works. It's a bit more difficult when a molded on coupler box doesn't have a flat top, like the Proto2000 Type 21 Tank Car (Installation Tip 8) but even then "finger-over" method can work. I can't link directly to the tip, Franks site sill uses Frames (for shame Frank) but just go to Instructions Etc on the Sergent website and scroll down the the Installation Tips link.

- Tim

On 04/01/2019 11:00, Nick Brown wrote:
I have been an HOn3 modeler for more than 40 years.  I've always used Kay Dee couplers.  I was inspired to try Sergents by articles in the HOn3 annuals but only got the proverbial 'round to it' a few days ago. I'm wondering how anyone keeps those little springs from flying away. I'm trying a method that doesn't use springs.   Hope it works.