Date   
Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Alan Hummel
 

Thanks Chris that's nice to know. i need a wand anyhow,so that will be like killing 2 birds with 1 stone,or something like that.  
Thank you.
Al Hummel


On Friday, February 7, 2014 3:49 PM, Christopher A. Zurek wrote:
 
I have a pair of stainless steel tweezers. One in totally non-magnetic and the other is not.

The magnetic one has only a very slight amount of magnetism that it got from touching an uncoupling wand. I use that one to pick up springs or balls. I use the non-magnetic one to help place the item and remove it from the magnetic tweezer.

Chris Z.


On 2/6/2014 8:52 AM, Mike Van Hove wrote:
 
Good morning all,
I have had great success with a very small screwdriver.  It's the smallest of the set of drivers that I own.

It has somehow become ever so slightly magnetized.  I can pick up a spring on the end.  I don't try to impale the spring with the screwdriver.  I can guide the spring into the pocket of the coupler with the screwdriver blade, then just hold the spring down with my thumbnail and withdraw the screwdriver.  Works nearly every time.
I also use the same screwdriver to pick up (1) ball Bearing and insert it in the hole in the coupler.  I use a .5 mm lead pencil to hold the ball while I remove the screwdriver.
Like I said, the blade is just barely magnetized.  I'm not sure how well this would work if it were heavily magnetized.

Hope something here may help.

Mike Van Hove
On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:13 AM, Alan Hummel wrote:

 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed







Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Christopher Zurek
 

Frank,

Any seller on eBay that you recommend for these bits? I have a few right now that I got out of Harbor Freight variety packs, but I'd like to have more in case I break any.

Chris Z.

On 1/25/2014 10:23 PM, fsergent@... wrote:
 
I use #80 carbide drills intended for printed circuit boards at a high speed. You can generally find these on ebay by the pound. Be aware and beware that these are very brittle though. Don't think you can do this without safety glasses. A Seig X2 might be a bit overpowered for this job and vibration might be more than the tiny carbide drills can handle. I think you can buy kits to convert these to belt driven to reduce the vibration. I've got a Seig X2 as well, but I go to the small (really small) Unimat for this job.




Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

George A.Nefstead Sr.
 

Frank,

As I normally do not use Harbor  Freight or E Bay for any tool purchase I can not  recommend  them as a source for small drills.

I generally purchase all my perishable tooling from the links provided below. If for no other reason then quality and knowing that item is new

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-drill-bits/=qm9iz0

 

http://www.mscdirect.com/?cid=ppc-google-Brand+--+P_sXALkJDC7_m%20sc_p_28652162704_c_S&mkwid=sXALkJDC7|dc&pcrid=28652162704&002=2167139&004=8097509704&005=270919242&006=28652162704&007=Search&008=&025=c&026=

 

Two other sources I have dealt with for supplies are  Grizzly Tools & Little Machine Shop . com ( Mainly for larger tooling & Machine parts )

 

Good Luck in your search

 

George @ TVW Miniatures

 

 

 

 

 

From: SergentEng@... [mailto:SergentEng@...] On Behalf Of Christopher A. Zurek
Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2014 1:03 AM
To: SergentEng@...
Subject: Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

 

 

Frank,

Any seller on eBay that you recommend for these bits? I have a few right now that I got out of Harbor Freight variety packs, but I'd like to have more in case I break any.

Chris Z.

On 1/25/2014 10:23 PM, fsergent@... wrote:

 

I use #80 carbide drills intended for printed circuit boards at a high speed. You can generally find these on ebay by the pound. Be aware and beware that these are very brittle though. Don't think you can do this without safety glasses. A Seig X2 might be a bit overpowered for this job and vibration might be more than the tiny carbide drills can handle. I think you can buy kits to convert these to belt driven to reduce the vibration. I've got a Seig X2 as well, but I go to the small (really small) Unimat for this job.

 

 

 

Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

John Niemeyer <jniemeyer@...>
 

I think Frank and his wife are away from the computer until after Feb. 15. It’s posted of his web page.
 
John
 
Frank,

As I normally do not use Harbor  Freight or E Bay for any tool purchase I can not  recommend  them as a source for small drills.

I generally purchase all my perishable tooling from the links provided below. If for no other reason then quality and knowing that item is new

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-drill-bits/=qm9iz0

 

http://www.mscdirect.com/?cid=ppc-google-Brand+--+P_sXALkJDC7_m%20sc_p_28652162704_c_S&mkwid=sXALkJDC7|dc&pcrid=28652162704&002=2167139&004=8097509704&005=270919242&006=28652162704&007=Search&008=&025=c&026=

 

Two other sources I have dealt with for supplies are  Grizzly Tools & Little Machine Shop . com ( Mainly for larger tooling & Machine parts )

 

Good Luck in your search

 

George @ TVW Miniatures

 

 

 

 

 

From: SergentEng@... [mailto:SergentEng@...] On Behalf Of Christopher A. Zurek
Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2014 1:03 AM
To: SergentEng@...
Subject: Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

 

 

Frank,

Any seller on eBay that you recommend for these bits? I have a few right now that I got out of Harbor Freight variety packs, but I'd like to have more in case I break any.

Chris Z.

On 1/25/2014 10:23 PM, fsergent@... wrote:

 

I use #80 carbide drills intended for printed circuit boards at a high speed. You can generally find these on ebay by the pound. Be aware and beware that these are very brittle though. Don't think you can do this without safety glasses. A Seig X2 might be a bit overpowered for this job and vibration might be more than the tiny carbide drills can handle. I think you can buy kits to convert these to belt driven to reduce the vibration. I've got a Seig X2 as well, but I go to the small (really small) Unimat for this job.

 

 

 

Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Arthur Flatray
 

This is one place to get all kinds of drill bits

https://www.drillbitcity.com/Default.asp

 Art


From: Christopher A. Zurek
To: SergentEng@...
Sent: Saturday, February 8, 2014 11:02 PM
Subject: Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

 
Frank,

Any seller on eBay that you recommend for these bits? I have a few right now that I got out of Harbor Freight variety packs, but I'd like to have more in case I break any.

Chris Z.

On 1/25/2014 10:23 PM, fsergent@... wrote:
 
I use #80 carbide drills intended for printed circuit boards at a high speed. You can generally find these on ebay by the pound. Be aware and beware that these are very brittle though. Don't think you can do this without safety glasses. A Seig X2 might be a bit overpowered for this job and vibration might be more than the tiny carbide drills can handle. I think you can buy kits to convert these to belt driven to reduce the vibration. I've got a Seig X2 as well, but I go to the small (really small) Unimat for this job.





Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Jared Harper
 

I use McMaster-Carr.

Jared Harper
Athens, GA


---In SergentEng@..., <zurekc@...> wrote:

Frank,

Any seller on eBay that you recommend for these bits? I have a few right now that I got out of Harbor Freight variety packs, but I'd like to have more in case I break any.

Chris Z.

On 1/25/2014 10:23 PM, fsergent@... wrote:
 
I use #80 carbide drills intended for printed circuit boards at a high speed. You can generally find these on ebay by the pound. Be aware and beware that these are very brittle though. Don't think you can do this without safety glasses. A Seig X2 might be a bit overpowered for this job and vibration might be more than the tiny carbide drills can handle. I think you can buy kits to convert these to belt driven to reduce the vibration. I've got a Seig X2 as well, but I go to the small (really small) Unimat for this job.




Getting back to work

Frank Sergent
 

Hi Folks,
I have been out of the country for two weeks and am just now back and trying to get caught up. I thought I would be able to keep up with my email while away, but that didn't work out so well. Please have patience while we try to get the piles of orders and other requests that have come in over the last two weeks sorted out.
Thanks,
Frank

Re: Draw Bars

Frank Sergent
 

Hi Ian and others,
This sounds pretty easy. Does anyone have drawings or prototype dimensions?
Thanks,
Frank

Re: Bulk RNB87K with draft gear boxes

Frank Sergent
 

Hi Cameron,
The RNB87 couplers have a shortened shank to allow them to be a drop-in replacement into Blackstone draft gear boxes. The RN87 couplers use our standard shank length and come with their own draft gear boxes. We can do those in bulk as well, but I didn't figure there would be enough interest in those to make it a standard product. Contact us offlist if you are interested in a bulk version of the RN87 kits.
Frank   

Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Frank Sergent
 

Hi All,
I have a theory that says a magnetized ball can get you in trouble. Magnetizing the ball is easy. Just pick one up with the magnet on the end of the uncoupling wand and there you go. The theory is that once the ball is magnetized, it will have a north and a south pole. If you try to unlock a coupler that has a magnetized ball and the north pole of the ball happens to be pointing up whilst the north end of the magnetic uncoupling wand is closest to the ball, then the ball will actually be repelled by the wand instead of attracted to the wand - so the coupler won't unlock.
This is a neat theory, but in practice I don't think it matters. I have purposely magnetized balls and marked them so I could tell the north and south end. Then I tried pick them up with the like pole of the uncoupling wand. What happens is that the ball actually spins around in its seat and then snaps up to the uncoupling wand. Bottom line is that I don't recommend letting the balls become magnetized, but I can't really demonstrate that it creates a problem to do so. In the end, I'd say use whatever method works best for you to get the ball in the hole and don't worry too much about the ball becoming magnetized.
Frank

Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Frank Sergent
 

Hi Chris,
I'd love to see a picture of the etched lift ring mounted on the coupler. This is something where I have never come up with what I consider to be an ideal solution.
By the way, my X2 vibrates like crazy. I think quality of these things probably varies a lot. I'm glad you got a good one. I wish I had a good one.
Frank 

Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Frank Sergent
 

I tend to very often break the extremely brittle carbide drills used to drill the tops on couplers. If I could find a way to chuck up HSS drills so they wouldn't wobble all over the place, I would go that route because they are not anywhere near as brittle as the solid carbide drills. The solid carbide PCB drills have a 1/8" shank that makes them easy to chuck up. In my experience new ones break just as easily as used ones (re-sharpened or otherwise). The only big difference seems to be the price and the level of the sick feeling in your stomach when one snaps. That's why I just get them off ebay. I have also sourced them from drillcity and go there when I need a specific diameter or flute length. Order more than you think you will need, because you will break more than you think you will. As drill size increases, the likelihood of breakage drops considerably. For anything larger than #70, go for the quality stuff. For anything smaller, go for cheap.
In general, I don't like cheap tools, but I make an exception for tiny drills.

Frank

Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Alan Hummel
 

Frank: Understood what you said about magnetizing.

This brings up another question regarding magnatization. On the new Mangelock airlines sold by PACIFIC WESTERN RAIL SYSTEMS,how can those airhose magnets,not repel each other if you spin the car 180 degrees? All I can think of,is like you said with the magnatized ball-the repelling magnets spin around&couple. I was thinking that if the magnatized gladhand is placed flat,with what they call the red dot facing up,repelling forces spin around&couple-nothing else makes sense. Have you had any experience with these yet?

Thanks,Alan Hummel

Re: Draw Bars

ian clasper
 

I have one drawing in the car builders cyc that shows the distance between strike plates of 32in, which would translate to a tie rod of:

0.230+0.230+0.370 = 0.830 between centers for a compatible pockets
0.165+0.165+0.370 = 0.700 between centers for a Accumate pockets.

Using my photos, 32" between striker plates does look to be correct.

The drawing is rather vague for the cross section dimensions, however it appears to be 7in  - 7.5in square, however compromises on thickness may be necessary to work with existing coupler pockets.

In the areas that are visible, the draw bars have a constant square section with rounded corners.
Looking at my photos, cars do appear to be fitted with different draft gear at the draw bar end of the car that features a deeper throat, this might be to allow for vertical movement that would normally be taken out in the coupler.  Therefore to make a true scale draw bar would require some modification to the draft gear, which may not be desirable.

I will put some detail photos in the photo section.

Ian

Photo's posted

jzook@...
 

Hi fellow Sergent coupler enthusiasts,

I created a folder in the photos section of some of my HOn3 locomotives and rolling stock that I've installed Sergent Sharon couplers on.  The folder is called "Jon Zook's Sergents".  I'd like to point out the Blackstone locomotive #459 that I installed both a snowplow on and a Sharon coupler.  It looks worlds better than the Kadee 714 that stuck out well past the front of the plow.  I also posted a photo of a double-header I was running with two of my Blackstone; a C-19 and a K-27.  You'll see that since the Sergent's don't use a trip pin, the snowplow on the second locomotive (again, my #459) doesn't interfere with coupling to the tender of the lead loco.

Lastly, I posted some photos of a Micro-Trains reefer that I haven't converted yet from 714's coupled to a Railline box car that has been converted to the Sharon's.

Hope you find these photos interesting and useful.  I'll be adding more photos at later dates.

Jon

Re: [SergentEng] Photo's posted

William Uffelman
 

Those are nice looking couplers --- can't wait for the S/On3 (3/4 size in O scale) coupler.

Bill Uffelman


On Wednesday, March 12, 2014 3:56 PM, "jzook@..." wrote:
 
Hi fellow Sergent coupler enthusiasts,

I created a folder in the photos section of some of my HOn3 locomotives and rolling stock that I've installed Sergent Sharon couplers on.  The folder is called "Jon Zook's Sergents".  I'd like to point out the Blackstone locomotive #459 that I installed both a snowplow on and a Sharon coupler.  It looks worlds better than the Kadee 714 that stuck out well past the front of the plow.  I also posted a photo of a double-header I was running with two of my Blackstone; a C-19 and a K-27.  You'll see that since the Sergent's don't use a trip pin, the snowplow on the second locomotive (again, my #459) doesn't interfere with coupling to the tender of the lead loco.

Lastly, I posted some photos of a Micro-Trains reefer that I haven't converted yet from 714's coupled to a Railline box car that has been converted to the Sharon's.

Hope you find these photos interesting and useful.  I'll be adding more photos at later dates.

Jon


Re: [SergentEng] Photo's posted

Edwin Anderson
 

Hey Jon!
Great looking couplers! I have about 16 pair for my Colorado Midland RR.
Making them from kits is easy too!!!!

Andy A--Texas


On Wednesday, March 12, 2014 6:00 PM, William Uffelman wrote:
 
Those are nice looking couplers --- can't wait for the S/On3 (3/4 size in O scale) coupler.

Bill Uffelman


On Wednesday, March 12, 2014 3:56 PM, "jzook@..." wrote:
 
Hi fellow Sergent coupler enthusiasts,

I created a folder in the photos section of some of my HOn3 locomotives and rolling stock that I've installed Sergent Sharon couplers on.  The folder is called "Jon Zook's Sergents".  I'd like to point out the Blackstone locomotive #459 that I installed both a snowplow on and a Sharon coupler.  It looks worlds better than the Kadee 714 that stuck out well past the front of the plow.  I also posted a photo of a double-header I was running with two of my Blackstone; a C-19 and a K-27.  You'll see that since the Sergent's don't use a trip pin, the snowplow on the second locomotive (again, my #459) doesn't interfere with coupling to the tender of the lead loco.

Lastly, I posted some photos of a Micro-Trains reefer that I haven't converted yet from 714's coupled to a Railline box car that has been converted to the Sharon's.

Hope you find these photos interesting and useful.  I'll be adding more photos at later dates.

Jon




Old Sergent EC's for sale

dull.chris@...
 


I have 3 packages of HO scale Sergent EC couplers I don't need, plus a few spare parts if anyone's interested.  The packages are unopened, but they're probably 8-10 years old.  I'm doing strictly narrow gauge now and moving everything to the new Sharon couplers.

 

Chris Dull

Highlands Ranch, CO

Re: [SergentEng] Old Sergent EC's for sale

Alan Hummel
 

Are these couplers the new die cast couplers&are they assembled or in kit form? How much are you asking for them?
Thanks,Alan


On Wednesday, March 26, 2014 9:27 PM, "dull.chris@..." wrote:
 

I have 3 packages of HO scale Sergent EC couplers I don't need, plus a few spare parts if anyone's interested.  The packages are unopened, but they're probably 8-10 years old.  I'm doing strictly narrow gauge now and moving everything to the new Sharon couplers.
 
Chris Dull
Highlands Ranch, CO


Re: [SergentEng] Old Sergent EC's for sale

dull.chris@...
 


Are these couplers the new die cast couplers&are they assembled or in kit form? How much are you asking for them?

 

They're not the new couplers.  They're the older design with the wire through knuckle.  They're kits, not assembled.  I think I paid $6.95 for them new.  I'll take $10 plus postage for all 3 sets plus the extra parts.

 

Chris Dull

Highlands Ranch, CO