Date   
Re: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Frank Sergent
 

On second thought I don't think a belt drive will help the Sieg X2. You need something with some serious spindle speed like a small drill press from MicroMark, etc.


Frank

Re: [SergentEng] RE: O Scale Shelf Couplers

Aaron Heaney
 

Frank
 
You are thinking of San Juan Car Company.
 
Aaron Heaney


On Saturday, January 25, 2014 11:32 PM, "fsergent@..."
 
Hi Al,

O scale couplers are currently in the "possible" column, but not in the "probable" column for now. As far as shelf couplers in O scale goes, that would seem to be a long shot.

I did just look at the Protocraft site which is interesting. I'm not certain that is a Type E coupler. I would recommend you contact them to see if they intend to broaden their offerings.

Somebody else (whose name I can't remember, somebody please help) makes some very nice looking O scale couplers. They are plastic but they make both Type E (a real type E) and Sharon versions.

Frank

Frank


(No subject)

Alan Hummel
 

Hi Frank. Thank you for your input on O Scale shelf couplers. I got about all I need to put down a great HO layout this time with no size limitations&wouldn't you know it,I bought an O Scale Weaver covered hopper 20+ years ago&the size just keeps me going back&looking at it over&over.  Prices in O Scale are just too expensive,I guess a fellow can always dream though. The company you mentioned that has plastic E couplers is San Quan. They do look nice&are VERY reasonable in price,I been trying to get some just to drool over but can't pull up ordering info. I understand about shelf couplers being a long shot in O as the market is just too limited.
Thanks again,Frank,will be ordering bulk SBE couplers from you soon as well as SE couplers. So glad the production problems in the investment cast products are solved&everything is up&running again.
Remember when we used to talk about magnetically coupled airlines years back? Have you seen the new Magnelock magnetically coupling airlines available from Pacific Western Rail Systems? They really couple&you can turn them 180 degrees &they are supposed work just great according to the video! This defies my logic but guess someone figured it out. They have a video of it even.
Thanks again Frank,have a good one.
Sincerely,Al Hummel

New To The Group

Jacob Damron
 

Hello all. I've been using Sergent couplers and preaching to the lost (LOL) for almost four years now. I sold 99% of what I had and retired from the hobby save for my Twin Star Rocket passenger train project. Alas! Type H couplers!!! Anyways, I'm here snooping around. And back in the game to finish this project. Any other passenger cars nuts feel free to chime in. I may need some help.


Jacob
Fort Worth

Urgent - D&RGW research help needed

Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...>
 

Pardon the multiple posts, but I just got this from a friend.  Can nybody help?
 
Mike Conder

We need urgent help with some information. The letter below from our president, George Neiderauer, is self explanatory. But time is not on our side and we need to have the information by the middle of March to be able to incorporate it into our submission. Please help in anyway you can as even the slightest lead might ensure success. Thank you in advance. For more info visit www.DRHS315.org and please excuse the multiple posting.
Mark Kasprowicz
DRHS Board.

The board of directors of the Durango Railroad Historical Society decided this month to commit to purchase later this year seven rail cars to add to our collection. These cars very rarely come up for sale and this is a once in a lifetime opportunity. Rather than let them fall into private hands where they might never be seen again, we intend to bring them back their former condition and display them in Silverton CO. alongside our restored drop and high sided gons and D&RGW C-18 #315.
We would like to apply for a grant from the State Historical Fund to acquire and restore these cars. However, a SHF prerequisite for applying for a grant is that they be on a local, state or national register. Being a part of the roster of cars on the Silverton Branch when the D&RGW applied in 1961 for a National Historical Landmark for the Silverton Branch qualifies the cars. D&S has no rosters for their freight cars for the period of the 1950s and 1960s, so we need to find some other kind of evidence: photos, documents, text in books, etc.
Please help us search for such evidence in your collection of photos, books, etc. We need to determine their status by March to be able to finish getting the proposal ready to submit by the April 1 deadline.
Here are the cars we are researching:

Stock car, single deck, D&RGW 5627
Stock car, double deck, D&RGW 5564
Flat car, D&RGW 6215
Box car, D&RGW 3670
Outfit car, bunk, water service, D&RGW 04432
Outfit car, tool D&RGW 04351
Flanger OT

We are looking for evidence that any of these cars was on the Silverton Branch or near it (e.g. RGS line, line from Durango to Chama) during the 1950s or 1960s.

If you know of someone or some collection that we should contact or search, please let us know at info@.... We will be searching Durango, Silverton, CRRM, and Denver Public Library collections.

George Niederauer,
President DRHS

Draw Bars

ian clasper
 

As an extension to the current now expanded product line, would you consider a fixed draw bar that features your draft gear end of the coupler on both ends.

There are many of the modern cars that are coupled this way, in particular Double Stacks and the solution provided by the manufactures is well, disappointing. 

I have a three car NSC double stack that has more slack action in that set than the rest of the Sergent equipped train combined and it would be nice to make that more realistic.

Thanks

Ian Clasper

Bulk RNB87K with draft gear boxes

c_bryars@bellsouth.net
 

Tested out the RNB87K and love them. Going to make my std coupler so wanted to know if a bulk pack with draft gear boxes was available or if we could order the draft gear boxes separately in bulk?

Thanks Cameron

(No subject)

Alan Hummel
 

I model Accurail 4600 cu ft covered grain hoppers,Atlas 2 bay cvd hoppers to a very small degree,Intermountain 4750 cu ft & a few of their cylindrical cvd hoppers. Most of my tank cars are from Athearn,with a few from Atlas& Walthers. Boxcars are mostly Athearn. I have 1 72' centerbeam from Walthers& an 89' auto carrier also from Walthers. I'm looking to install Compatible shank SBE couplers on most of my freight cars&diesel loco's with standard E couplers too. SE couplers will go on all my tank cars.
I didn't mean to ramble here,but are there certain cars from the builders I've mentioned or locomotives that require a certain coupler? I forgot to mention that all locomotives are GP-38s,GP-40-2's from Atlas with SD-40-2's & two GP-35's from Kato. Oh there's 1 GP40-2 from Athearn. I remember when Frank 1st diecast the standard E coupler,when put on an Accurail cvd grain hopper,it seemed as though the coupler was a little snug fitting on the post in the coupler,(draft gear),box. This is why I'm concerned. Am thinking about taking my 1st try at assembling the144 Compatible Shank SBE couplers.
Would appreciate all input from modelers on this subject.
Thank you,all.
Sincerely'Alan Hummel
Bremen,IN

Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Ross Dando
 

Alan,
I have recently been swapping out all my Kadee couplers. From my point of view you are taking on a similar adventure. First, buy a bulk pack of both the narrow shank with the boxes as well as a bulk pack of compatible shank. This way you will have what ever the conversion calls for. So far I have had to ream out the hole, thin the shank and shim the shank to get various conversions completed. Just like any coupler you would use the conversion is as good or as bad as you make it. I have actually ended up carving off a compatible shank box to install a narrow shank box because once I completed the converting it just didn't look right. Some cars you have to be very careful not to break anything, specifically the Kadee cars are a pain to get the coupler box off the car frame. 
Of you have any questions just let me know, my adventure continues!
Ross


On Feb 5, 2014, at 6:58 PM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:

 

I model Accurail 4600 cu ft covered grain hoppers,Atlas 2 bay cvd hoppers to a very small degree,Intermountain 4750 cu ft & a few of their cylindrical cvd hoppers. Most of my tank cars are from Athearn,with a few from Atlas& Walthers. Boxcars are mostly Athearn. I have 1 72' centerbeam from Walthers& an 89' auto carrier also from Walthers. I'm looking to install Compatible shank SBE couplers on most of my freight cars&diesel loco's with standard E couplers too. SE couplers will go on all my tank cars.
I didn't mean to ramble here,but are there certain cars from the builders I've mentioned or locomotives that require a certain coupler? I forgot to mention that all locomotives are GP-38s,GP-40-2's from Atlas with SD-40-2's & two GP-35's from Kato. Oh there's 1 GP40-2 from Athearn. I remember when Frank 1st diecast the standard E coupler,when put on an Accurail cvd grain hopper,it seemed as though the coupler was a little snug fitting on the post in the coupler,(draft gear),box. This is why I'm concerned. Am thinking about taking my 1st try at assembling the144 Compatible Shank SBE couplers.
Would appreciate all input from modelers on this subject.
Thank you,all.
Sincerely'Alan Hummel
Bremen,IN

Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Alan Hummel
 

Sounds like a mess Ross,but I've had more messes than I can remember in my time with Kadees. Shimming to get the proper height mostly. Then some of the cars would wobble. I started with Frank Sergent when he was still making couplers out of white metal. We had many phone conversations. Then he finally diecast the E coupler. But since I model mostly modern era,from the '80's to present day,I needed shelf couplers,but Frank said there was just no call for them. I stayed with the Kadees until the shelf couplers came out. I made a $500 order but that was at the time when problems developed with the investmant cast couplers. This went for 11/2 years before I cancelled my order. Then finally&thankfully Sergent solved that problem&everything seems to be back on line again. I hope I can put the couplers together.(?) I plan to purchase all the assembly tools needed for that purpose to make it as easy as possible. I have " helping hands alligator clips&magnifiers of various types,so am hoping things will go smoothly. My eyes water badly & am afraid even with magnification,it might not go as smoothly as I hope. Are there any conversions that might require the extended shank length such as with SD-40-2's? I plan to xpand my track radiuses to probably 26"-28". I've had 22"&19" on my 4'x8',but am in the process of cleaning out our basement which should allow about 12' in widthx50' in length. I'll only use small widths though,absolutely no more than 4'.
I thought I might buy a few assembled coupler packs to try different installations,thinking that might also help me to see what type couplers I need with what cars,so I know what to&what not to buy in bulk. It's only a guess,but I'm thinking since the SBE couplers are offered in bulk since they're now entirely diecast,that the SE couplers might not be too far out until they become fully diecast also.(?)
Thanks again for your great information Ross.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel
Bremen,IN


On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 9:20 PM, Ross wrote:
 
Alan,
I have recently been swapping out all my Kadee couplers. From my point of view you are taking on a similar adventure. First, buy a bulk pack of both the narrow shank with the boxes as well as a bulk pack of compatible shank. This way you will have what ever the conversion calls for. So far I have had to ream out the hole, thin the shank and shim the shank to get various conversions completed. Just like any coupler you would use the conversion is as good or as bad as you make it. I have actually ended up carving off a compatible shank box to install a narrow shank box because once I completed the converting it just didn't look right. Some cars you have to be very careful not to break anything, specifically the Kadee cars are a pain to get the coupler box off the car frame. 
Of you have any questions just let me know, my adventure continues!
Ross

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 5, 2014, at 6:58 PM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:

 
I model Accurail 4600 cu ft covered grain hoppers,Atlas 2 bay cvd hoppers to a very small degree,Intermountain 4750 cu ft & a few of their cylindrical cvd hoppers. Most of my tank cars are from Athearn,with a few from Atlas& Walthers. Boxcars are mostly Athearn. I have 1 72' centerbeam from Walthers& an 89' auto carrier also from Walthers. I'm looking to install Compatible shank SBE couplers on most of my freight cars&diesel loco's with standard E couplers too. SE couplers will go on all my tank cars.
I didn't mean to ramble here,but are there certain cars from the builders I've mentioned or locomotives that require a certain coupler? I forgot to mention that all locomotives are GP-38s,GP-40-2's from Atlas with SD-40-2's & two GP-35's from Kato. Oh there's 1 GP40-2 from Athearn. I remember when Frank 1st diecast the standard E coupler,when put on an Accurail cvd grain hopper,it seemed as though the coupler was a little snug fitting on the post in the coupler,(draft gear),box. This is why I'm concerned. Am thinking about taking my 1st try at assembling the144 Compatible Shank SBE couplers.
Would appreciate all input from modelers on this subject.
Thank you,all.
Sincerely'Alan Hummel
Bremen,IN


Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Mike Van Hove
 

Alan, Ross & others.

I can't help stating the benefits of owning the reamer Sergent sells.  It has saved my bacon, several times in changing to the Sergent couplers.  Just one warning, be careful in handling it, it's extremely sharp (a good thing).

I have no connection to Sergent, other then as a satisfied customer.

Mike Van Hove

On Feb 5, 2014, at 8:20 PM, Ross wrote:

 

Alan,
I have recently been swapping out all my Kadee couplers. From my point of view you are taking on a similar adventure. First, buy a bulk pack of both the narrow shank with the boxes as well as a bulk pack of compatible shank. This way you will have what ever the conversion calls for. So far I have had to ream out the hole, thin the shank and shim the shank to get various conversions completed. Just like any coupler you would use the conversion is as good or as bad as you make it. I have actually ended up carving off a compatible shank box to install a narrow shank box because once I completed the converting it just didn't look right. Some cars you have to be very careful not to break anything, specifically the Kadee cars are a pain to get the coupler box off the car frame. 
Of you have any questions just let me know, my adventure continues!
Ross


On Feb 5, 2014, at 6:58 PM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:

 

I model Accurail 4600 cu ft covered grain hoppers,Atlas 2 bay cvd hoppers to a very small degree,Intermountain 4750 cu ft & a few of their cylindrical cvd hoppers. Most of my tank cars are from Athearn,with a few from Atlas& Walthers. Boxcars are mostly Athearn. I have 1 72' centerbeam from Walthers& an 89' auto carrier also from Walthers. I'm looking to install Compatible shank SBE couplers on most of my freight cars&diesel loco's with standard E couplers too. SE couplers will go on all my tank cars.
I didn't mean to ramble here,but are there certain cars from the builders I've mentioned or locomotives that require a certain coupler? I forgot to mention that all locomotives are GP-38s,GP-40-2's from Atlas with SD-40-2's & two GP-35's from Kato. Oh there's 1 GP40-2 from Athearn. I remember when Frank 1st diecast the standard E coupler,when put on an Accurail cvd grain hopper,it seemed as though the coupler was a little snug fitting on the post in the coupler,(draft gear),box. This is why I'm concerned. Am thinking about taking my 1st try at assembling the144 Compatible Shank SBE couplers.
Would appreciate all input from modelers on this subject.
Thank you,all.
Sincerely'Alan Hummel
Bremen,IN



Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Alan Hummel
 

Mike thank you for the input on the reamer I had 4gotten about that but remember it quit well now from Sergent's advertising.
Al Hummel


On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 11:50 PM, Mike Van Hove wrote:
 
Alan, Ross & others.

I can't help stating the benefits of owning the reamer Sergent sells.  It has saved my bacon, several times in changing to the Sergent couplers.  Just one warning, be careful in handling it, it's extremely sharp (a good thing).

I have no connection to Sergent, other then as a satisfied customer.

Mike Van Hove
On Feb 5, 2014, at 8:20 PM, Ross wrote:

 

Alan,
I have recently been swapping out all my Kadee couplers. From my point of view you are taking on a similar adventure. First, buy a bulk pack of both the narrow shank with the boxes as well as a bulk pack of compatible shank. This way you will have what ever the conversion calls for. So far I have had to ream out the hole, thin the shank and shim the shank to get various conversions completed. Just like any coupler you would use the conversion is as good or as bad as you make it. I have actually ended up carving off a compatible shank box to install a narrow shank box because once I completed the converting it just didn't look right. Some cars you have to be very careful not to break anything, specifically the Kadee cars are a pain to get the coupler box off the car frame. 
Of you have any questions just let me know, my adventure continues!
Ross


On Feb 5, 2014, at 6:58 PM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:

 

I model Accurail 4600 cu ft covered grain hoppers,Atlas 2 bay cvd hoppers to a very small degree,Intermountain 4750 cu ft & a few of their cylindrical cvd hoppers. Most of my tank cars are from Athearn,with a few from Atlas& Walthers. Boxcars are mostly Athearn. I have 1 72' centerbeam from Walthers& an 89' auto carrier also from Walthers. I'm looking to install Compatible shank SBE couplers on most of my freight cars&diesel loco's with standard E couplers too. SE couplers will go on all my tank cars.
I didn't mean to ramble here,but are there certain cars from the builders I've mentioned or locomotives that require a certain coupler? I forgot to mention that all locomotives are GP-38s,GP-40-2's from Atlas with SD-40-2's & two GP-35's from Kato. Oh there's 1 GP40-2 from Athearn. I remember when Frank 1st diecast the standard E coupler,when put on an Accurail cvd grain hopper,it seemed as though the coupler was a little snug fitting on the post in the coupler,(draft gear),box. This is why I'm concerned. Am thinking about taking my 1st try at assembling the144 Compatible Shank SBE couplers.
Would appreciate all input from modelers on this subject.
Thank you,all.
Sincerely'Alan Hummel
Bremen,IN





Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Morgan Reed
 

As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!


Morgan Reed

Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

John Degnan
 

From: morganreed@...
To: SergentEng@...
Sent: Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24:07 AM
Subject: Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.
On models that have molded-on draft gear boxes, I back this up 100%... the reamer is a necessary tool.  But...
 
I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.
This brings up a pet-peeve of mine in that I sincereny wish that ALL model manufacturers would STOP!!! with the practice of making the draft gear boxes a MOLDED-ON detail!!!  There are SO many, much nicer looking (and working) options out there to choose from such as Kadee's # 262 "Narrow Low Profile" box (which will also accept a Sergent coupler with a very slight amount of shank filing) and Accurail's # 1020 "Proto:HO Accumate" box (which Sergent now offers WITH his 'EN' narrow shank couplers (an absolutely UNBEATABLE combo as far as appearance in concerned!)... all of which easily attach to a model with one or two screws.  So in my view, there is little to no reason for any model manufacturer to provide anything more than a flat mounting 'pad' in the area where there draft gear box goes.  Accurail has actually started doing this on some of their later models... one of which being the AAR 41' Steel Gondola... and it looks fantastic with that scale-sized draft gear and Sergent coupler on it... molded-on grabs/railings or not.
 
And the fringe benefit to manufacturers who would be wise enough to start offering their models with just a mounting pad (like Accurail's) is shorter and easier design, development and material cost by and through having one-less-detail to worry with.
 
The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.
Absolutely!
 
 
John Degnan
 

Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Alan Hummel
 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed


Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...>
 

After I lost count of the springs that launched themselves into the ether, I tried a gimmick I heard about long ago: I take a length of fishing line and thread it through the little spring.  Then holding both ends of the line between my left thumb and forefinger, I use my right hand to nestle the little devil into the Kadee coupler jig.  Once the spring is locked into position, I gently pull out the line and bingo!  Haven't lost a spring since I started using this method.

Russ Norris


On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 7:13 AM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:
 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed





--
Russell Norris
PO Box 390
West Hyannisport, MA 02672
 

Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Alan Hummel
 

Ross,that's a new 1 but sounds quite efficient. Now what did I do with my old floss? Have had false teeth for many years now& I think I pitched it,but will pilfer a little of my wife's. Just kidding. Thanks for the tip.
Sincerely,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 7:59 AM, Russ Norris wrote:
 
After I lost count of the springs that launched themselves into the ether, I tried a gimmick I heard about long ago: I take a length of fishing line and thread it through the little spring.  Then holding both ends of the line between my left thumb and forefinger, I use my right hand to nestle the little devil into the Kadee coupler jig.  Once the spring is locked into position, I gently pull out the line and bingo!  Haven't lost a spring since I started using this method.

Russ Norris


On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 7:13 AM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:
 
Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed





--
Russell Norris
PO Box 390
West Hyannisport, MA 02672
 


Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Mike Van Hove
 

Good morning all,
I have had great success with a very small screwdriver.  It's the smallest of the set of drivers that I own.

It has somehow become ever so slightly magnetized.  I can pick up a spring on the end.  I don't try to impale the spring with the screwdriver.  I can guide the spring into the pocket of the coupler with the screwdriver blade, then just hold the spring down with my thumbnail and withdraw the screwdriver.  Works nearly every time.
I also use the same screwdriver to pick up (1) ball Bearing and insert it in the hole in the coupler.  I use a .5 mm lead pencil to hold the ball while I remove the screwdriver.
Like I said, the blade is just barely magnetized.  I'm not sure how well this would work if it were heavily magnetized.

Hope something here may help.

Mike Van Hove

On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:13 AM, Alan Hummel wrote:

 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed




Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Alan Hummel
 

Thanks Mike that was a GREAT HELP with the magnatized screwdriver, I been wondering about how to get that ball in there at all. I have "mini" screwdrivers but don't know if it's magnatized. If not,do you know where a fellow could pick one up? I don't think ACE HARDWARE has 'em that small.
Thanks Again'
Al Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 9:52 AM, Mike Van Hove wrote:
 
Good morning all,
I have had great success with a very small screwdriver.  It's the smallest of the set of drivers that I own.

It has somehow become ever so slightly magnetized.  I can pick up a spring on the end.  I don't try to impale the spring with the screwdriver.  I can guide the spring into the pocket of the coupler with the screwdriver blade, then just hold the spring down with my thumbnail and withdraw the screwdriver.  Works nearly every time.
I also use the same screwdriver to pick up (1) ball Bearing and insert it in the hole in the coupler.  I use a .5 mm lead pencil to hold the ball while I remove the screwdriver.
Like I said, the blade is just barely magnetized.  I'm not sure how well this would work if it were heavily magnetized.

Hope something here may help.

Mike Van Hove
On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:13 AM, Alan Hummel wrote:

 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed






Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...>
 

If you pick up the screwdriver with a strong magnet and let it remain in contact for a while, the screwdriver will become magnetized. 

Russ


On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 11:05 AM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Mike that was a GREAT HELP with the magnatized screwdriver, I been wondering about how to get that ball in there at all. I have "mini" screwdrivers but don't know if it's magnatized. If not,do you know where a fellow could pick one up? I don't think ACE HARDWARE has 'em that small.
Thanks Again'
Al Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 9:52 AM, Mike Van Hove <mvanhove@...> wrote:
 
Good morning all,
I have had great success with a very small screwdriver.  It's the smallest of the set of drivers that I own.

It has somehow become ever so slightly magnetized.  I can pick up a spring on the end.  I don't try to impale the spring with the screwdriver.  I can guide the spring into the pocket of the coupler with the screwdriver blade, then just hold the spring down with my thumbnail and withdraw the screwdriver.  Works nearly every time.
I also use the same screwdriver to pick up (1) ball Bearing and insert it in the hole in the coupler.  I use a .5 mm lead pencil to hold the ball while I remove the screwdriver.
Like I said, the blade is just barely magnetized.  I'm not sure how well this would work if it were heavily magnetized.

Hope something here may help.

Mike Van Hove
On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:13 AM, Alan Hummel wrote:

 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed









--
Russell Norris
PO Box 390
West Hyannisport, MA 02672