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Sergent coupler group

Rex Beistle
 

I model in both std & narrow gauge in HO scale.  I do not have a home layout, but do have a traveling exhibition display named "HILLTOP STATION."

I am an NMRA member and participate as much as possible with The Denver (CO) HO Model Railroad Club and the Estes Valley Model Railroaders in Estes Park, CO.  This weekend the EVMRR are holding their annual Rails in the Rockies show in Estes Park.

I am a life member in the Denver HO Model Railroad Club, located in the basement of The Colorado RR Museum in Golden, CO.  This is the 50th anniversary of the Denver Club.


Rex Beistle
Longmont, CO


Re: [SPAM] Re: [Sergent Engineering] The ball will not drop!

Tim L
 

I doubt you failed anything, the ball pocket cleaning isn't in the printed instructions for the EC87 or EN87, the online instructions do have a bit about it. The instructions for the RC87K, RN87K, RNB87K, RNC87K have a pic and explanation. I can't give you a direct link as Franks website still uses frames (really Frank?, I think it's past time to update) but just go to the Sergent website, click the instructions etc button, then the Click Here for Instructions link and then finally click the RC87K, RN87K, RNB87K, RNC87K link.

Tim

On 16/02/2018 15:08, Ed Tibbetts wrote:
I was not aware of the pocket cleaning. I have been doing the pencil graphite in the ball pocket. Did I fail "reading for comprehension?", or is this just my learning curve? 😊
Ed T


Re: The ball will not drop!

Ed Tibbetts <tippytib@...>
 

I was not aware of the pocket cleaning. I have been doing the pencil graphite in the ball pocket. Did I fail "reading for comprehension?", or is this just my learning curve? 😊
Ed T


Re: The ball will not drop!

Mark Lewis
 

Tim:
I totally agree.

Mark Lewis 

On Feb 15, 2018 9:20 PM, "TL" <egroupstuff@...> wrote:
I don't think that slightly magnetic tweezers are the problem, Zinc
(what the coupler is made of) is not magnetic by itself and can not hold
a magnetic charge (unless Frank is using some sort of alloy that does contain a metal that is magnetic) so the ball cannot stick magnetically
to the casting so my guess is that the ball socket requires cleaning
out.

I just went looking on Franks site to find the info on cleaning out the
ball socket etc but I can't find it. It's there somewhere though.
Basically cut a bit off the sharp point end of the toothpics provided
and twirl the toothpic in the ball socket, like you were drilling a hole
in the ball socket but your using the toothpic instead of a drill bit.

Using non magnetic tweezers is so the ball doesn't stick to the
tweezers.

- Tim


On 16/02/2018 12:48, Mark Lewis wrote:
Ed:     Yes. I have a pair of nylon tweezers, to avoid the magnetism problem.
Also, are you thoroughly cleaning out the cavity where the ball rides, so there is no drag? I use a wood toothpick.

Mark Lewis




Re: The ball will not drop!

Tim L
 

I don't think that slightly magnetic tweezers are the problem, Zinc
(what the coupler is made of) is not magnetic by itself and can not hold
a magnetic charge (unless Frank is using some sort of alloy that does contain a metal that is magnetic) so the ball cannot stick magnetically
to the casting so my guess is that the ball socket requires cleaning
out.

I just went looking on Franks site to find the info on cleaning out the
ball socket etc but I can't find it. It's there somewhere though.
Basically cut a bit off the sharp point end of the toothpics provided
and twirl the toothpic in the ball socket, like you were drilling a hole
in the ball socket but your using the toothpic instead of a drill bit.

Using non magnetic tweezers is so the ball doesn't stick to the
tweezers.

- Tim

On 16/02/2018 12:48, Mark Lewis wrote:
Ed:     Yes. I have a pair of nylon tweezers, to avoid the magnetism problem.
Also, are you thoroughly cleaning out the cavity where the ball rides, so there is no drag? I use a wood toothpick.
Mark Lewis


These couplers look great!!

Rodney Peters
 



...and they operate just like the prototype.

Rod Peters


Re: The ball will not drop!

Mark Lewis
 

Ed:     Yes. I have a pair of nylon tweezers, to avoid the magnetism problem.
Also, are you thoroughly cleaning out the cavity where the ball rides, so there is no drag? I use a wood toothpick.

Mark Lewis

On Thu, Feb 15, 2018 at 8:24 PM, Ed Tibbetts <tippytib@...> wrote:
Help! I'm new at this, and having a problem. After I assemble a coupler, but before I ACC it, when I turn it right side up, the ball will not drop and lock the coupler. I notice that my tweezers are slightly magnetic. Am I magnetizing the ball and causing it to hang? If I hold the magnetic uncoupler below the coupler, the ball still will not drop. Will not drop when I "thump" it too. :-(((
Do I need brass, or plastic tweezers???

Ed T.



The ball will not drop!

Ed Tibbetts <tippytib@...>
 

Help! I'm new at this, and having a problem. After I assemble a coupler, but before I ACC it, when I turn it right side up, the ball will not drop and lock the coupler. I notice that my tweezers are slightly magnetic. Am I magnetizing the ball and causing it to hang? If I hold the magnetic uncoupler below the coupler, the ball still will not drop. Will not drop when I "thump" it too. :-(((
Do I need brass, or plastic tweezers???

Ed T.


Re: {Sergent Engineering} Not a Robot, and S Scale questions

Chris S
 

Bill,

Not a bad idea and I’ll look into that, but the profile of the Type E would still be pretty distinctively off. Regardless, it will look better than anything else available to my knowledge, but I sure wish there was an S scale Sharon available. As things are though, I think your idea is likely my best option.


thanks!
Chris


Re: {Sergent Engineering} Not a Robot, and S Scale questions

Bill Keene
 

Hello Chris,

Would an HO scale type E represent the size of the smaller coupler you want to install on the standard gauge equipment?

Cheers & Happy Modeling,
Bill Keene
Irvine, CA


On Feb 12, 2018, at 4:35 AM, Chris S via Groups.Io <cottonwoodarmada1651@...> wrote:

Hi group,

I am also not a robot. I recently switched from HOn3/HO to Sn3/S and am curious about what my Sergents options are. My focus is 1907, so Sharon couplers are appropriate, and in HO I had planned (and started) to use Sharons on both standard and narrow gauge equipment, since many narrow gauge railroads used full-size couplers. Now in 1:64, I'm still planning on Sharons for the narrow gauge to represent a 3/4 size coupler (I'm a freelancer, so that's fine for me), but I'm not sure what to do on the (much smaller) roster of standard gauge equipment. The HO Sharon is too small, but the S scale Type E is too modern. Any ideas out there for an S scale early knuckle coupler?

Thanks!
Chris


Re: Making the plunge!

Jim King <jimking3@...>
 

Ed,

 

I now offer detailed, Sergent-compatible coupler boxes for the compatible- and narrow-shank styles.  Go here to view more info:

 

http://www.smokymountainmodelworks.com/HO_draft_gear+cplrs.html

 

Jim King

www.smokymountainmodelworks.com

 


Not a Robot, and S Scale questions

Chris S
 

Hi group,

I am also not a robot. I recently switched from HOn3/HO to Sn3/S and am curious about what my Sergents options are. My focus is 1907, so Sharon couplers are appropriate, and in HO I had planned (and started) to use Sharons on both standard and narrow gauge equipment, since many narrow gauge railroads used full-size couplers. Now in 1:64, I'm still planning on Sharons for the narrow gauge to represent a 3/4 size coupler (I'm a freelancer, so that's fine for me), but I'm not sure what to do on the (much smaller) roster of standard gauge equipment. The HO Sharon is too small, but the S scale Type E is too modern. Any ideas out there for an S scale early knuckle coupler?

Thanks!
Chris


Couplers

Ken Anderson
 

Hi everyone,my name is ken and I have been using Sargent couplers for a couple of years with good success.


Re: Making the plunge!

Ed Tibbetts <tippytib@...>
 

Got my Sergent Starter Set in the mail yesterday. Made a parts box for all the minute parts, plus the mounting screws and Kadee coupler pockets. I was pleasently surprised to find each package of RNC87K's contained a "bakers 1/2 dozen parts😊. Thanks Frank!


Would like to join Group.

Greg Benco
 

Hi guys. Have bought these couplers in the past and like them. Not big on the conversational side but may have a question or 2 every now and then. I model HO scale. Used to be on the Yahoo group but didn't know it had moved, as I don't visit Yahoo that much. Only found out about the move recently from the Sergent website as I was looking to place another order for couplers.


Thanks, Greg Benco.


Re: New Member

Nathan Rich
 

Sergent Engineering website, hit Products, then Compatible, and scroll down. 

Nathan

On Sat, Feb 10, 2018 at 10:47 AM, Thomas Bavolar <tomsmodeltrains@...> wrote:
Hello Nathan and thanks for the reply. I'd like to get one of these uncoupler tools. Where are they available?......Tom



Re: New Member

Thomas Bavolar <tomsmodeltrains@...>
 

Hello Nathan and thanks for the reply. I'd like to get one of these uncoupler tools. Where are they available?......Tom


Re: New Member

Nathan Rich
 

Diaphragms do not preclude the use of sergent couplers, you just have to use an MWRY uncoupler tool which is designed to work with passenger equipment.

Nathan Rich 

On Feb 6, 2018 16:04, "Thomas Bavolar" <tomsmodeltrains@...> wrote:
Hello Group Members....I model HO and O scale passenger car equipment both heavyweight and streamline. I slice, dice and kit bash all of this equipment. Unfortunately the diaphragms on the cars preclude the use of the Sergent coupler. However, if I were to start modeling the older, wooden, open platform equipment, I'd use the Sergents. In the mean time I enjoy reading the posts and find them to be very informative.....Tom Bavolar


Re: Making the plunge!

Dale Buxton
 

Ed,
Funny you should ask about an after market coupler box for Sergent Sharon couplers in HOn3. Right now I’m working on a design to send to Shapeways to have them do in some kind of nylon. I’m not promising anything just yet. I have to see if my design will work with Shapeways production capabilities.

I’m thinking of a spring centering design that would use the coil spring that comes with the couplers. You would need to drill a tiny hole in the back end of the couplers shank and put a brass pin in the hole that would have about 1mm left sticking out the shanks back end. This pin would act as a keeper for the spring that would be mounted behind the shank. Or you could just leave the spring off like I do a lot of the time.

The box would be one piece with a length that is roughly the minimum of the distance between the inside back of a cars end beam and the front side of the bolster beam.

Right now all I use is the bottom half of a Kadee 714 coupler box on my scratch built cars. They do the job very nicely. But, I can see where are times where a self-centering coupler would be helpfull.

Dale Buxton




On Wednesday, February 7, 2018, 15:04, John Niemeyer <reverend455@...> wrote:

Ed
 
I modified the draft gear box from a Micro Trains Line (MTL) 1025/1029 to work with the RNB87K couplers for several of my HOn3 models, including some Labelle. It would be nice if someone better than me, would make that draft gear box and sell it. I would buy hundreds for my HOn30 fleet.
 
Also if you’re worried about shorting thru the couplers. How often are you going to couple a rod engine front to front? The rear coupler is almost always insulated anyway, so not an issue. For my brass engines, I have successfully use Sergent RS1P87 & ES1P87 front pilot couplers with very little modifications to the engine.
 
John
 
 
I "bit the bullet" today and ordered a "starter kit" of RNC87's. I have some LaBelle box cars that have very little space between them when coupled together, so I am hopeful the C's will leave room for the uncupling wand. These cars will belong to the Red Mountain R.R., a switchback line off the summit of my HOn3 Colorado R.R.. I got an email back from Frank @ Sergent last night, and he said I would have no compatibility issues mixing the Sharon's with SBEC87P130K's. I plan to use the sbec's as pilot couplers on my rod engines. All my loco's are DeadRail, so I don't have to worry about electrical shorts if I double head the hill. :-) He also said he can supply the bulk (144) pack of RNC87K's. Said just order the B's, and send an email stating I really want the C's.  :-)


Re: Making the plunge!

Ed Tibbetts <tippytib@...>
 

I put up a couple of pictures of my first candidates. This is 1/2 the Red Mountain R.R. tolling stock. I figured if Otto Mears could use a shay om the Silverton R.R, I could use a climax.
I'll post again when I have the 6 sets of couplers installed and running.