Date   
Re: [SergentEng] Re: S Scale answers

David Heine <davesn3@...>
 

Earl,

 

Actually a S scale Sharon coupler with a box similar to the new Type E couplers would be a better choice for my own standard gauge rolling stock. 

 

I was thinking of the HO box option for Sn3 and On30 applications.  Actually for Sn3, much of the equipment needs a longer shank for easy installation since many of the kits are designed to use the longer Kadee #26 shank.  I see that option exists for the HO Type E coupler.

 

Dave Heine

 

 

From: SergentEng@... [mailto:SergentEng@...] On Behalf Of Earl Tuson
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 7:22 AM
To: SergentEng@...
Subject: [SergentEng] Re: S Scale answers

 

 

Dave Heine writes,

> I guess if you made an S scale Sharon coupler that fit in a Kadee HO box,
> that would be better for an O scale ¾ size coupler and would also work for
> Sn3 for those narrow gauge roads that used the full size couplers, like the
> D&RGW and RGS.

Frank had thrown out an S scale Sharon coupler as a possibility earlier in his development schedule, and I was a little
dissapointed that it did not come to fruition. Let us hope his S scale Type E coupler sales encourage him to offer a
second design. As they are investment cast, tooling costs are not quite the issue they are for die cast. A Kadee HO
compatible post would not be my personal first choice for S scale standard gauge equipment, but if that is what it took
for Frank to generate the sales he needs...


Re: S Scale answers

Talmadge C 'TC' Carr
 

You could do dat and include a nice plastic sleeve to reduce the hole size.


Talmadge C 'TC' Carr
Sn42 and Hn42 somewhere in the wilds of the Pacific Northwest
@dapenguin

Frank had thrown out an S scale Sharon coupler as a possibility earlier in his development schedule, and I was a little dissapointed that it did not come to fruition. Let us hope his S scale Type E coupler sales encourage him to offer a second design. As they are investment cast, tooling costs are not quite the issue they are for die cast. A Kadee HO compatible post would not be my personal first choice for S scale standard gauge equipment, but if that is what it took for Frank to generate the sales he needs...

Earl Tuson

Re: [SergentEng] Re: S Scale answers

John Degnan
 

Yes, you could do dat... but at what cost?  What I mean is this - the smaller dimensions of the hole required for the S scale coupler allows the width of the coupler's shank to be narrower than what it would be if the shank had to be widened to accomodate an HO sized hole.  If you enlarge the hole, you will by default, need to widen the shank.
 
Unacceptable in my book... narrower is better as it makes for more realistic, scale-sized appearance.  It was a good idea, though...
 
John Degnan
 


From: "Talmadge C 'TC' Carr"
To: SergentEng@...
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 5:38:01 PM
Subject: [SergentEng] Re: S Scale answers

 

You could do dat and include a nice plastic sleeve to reduce the hole size.


Talmadge C 'TC' Carr
Sn42 and Hn42 somewhere in the wilds of the Pacific Northwest
group_list@...


> Frank had thrown out an S scale Sharon coupler as a possibility earlier in his development schedule, and I was a little dissapointed that it did not come to fruition. Let us hope his S scale Type E coupler sales encourage him to offer a second design. As they are investment cast, tooling costs are not quite the issue they are for die cast. A Kadee HO compatible post would not be my personal first choice for S scale standard gauge equipment, but if that is what it took for Frank to generate the sales he needs...
>
> Earl Tuson


Knuckles

Christopher Zurek
 

Hello all,

Are the knuckles the same on all the non-Sharon Sergent couplers?

I know on the prototypes the Type E, Type F and Type H have different knuckles and are not interchangeable.  I'm just wondering about the Sergent couplers, so if they are the same I can put all the knuckles into one container.

Thanks,
Chris Z.

Re: Knuckles

Frank Sergent
 

Hi Chris,


All the knuckles are the same (except for the Sharon). 


Thanks,

Frank

Re: [SergentEng] RE: Knuckles

Christopher Zurek
 

Frank,

Thanks for the confirmation. 


Chris Z.

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy Note® II, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: fsergent@...
Date:01/08/2014 22:08 (GMT-06:00)
To: SergentEng@...
Subject: [SergentEng] RE: Knuckles

 

Hi Chris,


All the knuckles are the same (except for the Sharon). 


Thanks,

Frank

Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Christopher Zurek
 

Hello all,

I'm to the point where I need to drill holes in the tops of some couplers for the top operating detail. I need to do some Type E, Type F and Type H for locomotives.

I've done a few Type E by hand and that kind of sucks.

Anyone have some suggestion on how I can drill the holes easier than by hand? And exactly where the holes should be?

I do have a Seig X2 mini mill and drill machine, so I'm thinking I should just be able to put the couplers in a small vise somehow.

Chris Z.

Re: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

train346@...
 

Chris


I would spend some time with your mill and make a fixture for holding the couplers.  I would make the fixture so that the coupler would be held in place with a screw through the hole in the shank.  The fixture should precisely locate the coupler each time one is put in place.


The hole in the coupler then would be located by the Z-Y movement of the mill table and no fiddling would be necessary from one coupler to the next.  Use a solid carbide drill because they are stiff and will make a hole where they are pointed, not wander about like a typical twist drill.  A really light touch on the Z movement will be essential to avoid going too deep into the coupler. 


I cannot answer your question about exactly where the hole should be.  It think it would be worth buying a package of couplers with the top operating feature to learn just where and how deep the hole is.


Rex Beistle

NMRA RMR

Estes Valley Division

O Scale Shelf Couplers

Alan Hummel
 

Hi Frank. Do you have any idea if you'll ever do shelf couplers in O Scale? Currently,Protocraft makes just a standard E coupler,but no shelf couplers?

Thanks you.

Al Hummel

Re: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Earl Tuson
 

And exactly where the holes should be?
A quick look through a '31 CBC shows 3" forward of the back of the coupler horn on Sharon and Type D couplers, 3 1/4"
on Type E couplers. There are a few other designs with slightly different dimensions shown.

Earl Tuson

Re: [SergentEng] Re: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Christopher Zurek
 

Thanks.

I also did some searching after I posted the question and I found this from a manufacturer:
http://www.columbuscastings.com/locomotive_couplers.html

Chris Z.


On 1/24/2014 9:21 PM, Earl Tuson wrote:
 

> And exactly where the holes should be?

A quick look through a '31 CBC shows 3" forward of the back of the coupler horn on Sharon and Type D couplers, 3 1/4"
on Type E couplers. There are a few other designs with slightly different dimensions shown.

Earl Tuson


Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Christopher Zurek
 

Rex,

Thanks. I have this mill right here and I didn't even think of making a fixture...duh!
I talked with a friend this evening that has connections to find a piece of scrap brass bar or structural aluminum that I can use. I'd rather use one of those than steel.

Chris Z.

On 1/23/2014 2:32 PM, train346@q.com wrote:
 

Chris


I would spend some time with your mill and make a fixture for holding the couplers.  I would make the fixture so that the coupler would be held in place with a screw through the hole in the shank.  The fixture should precisely locate the coupler each time one is put in place.


The hole in the coupler then would be located by the Z-Y movement of the mill table and no fiddling would be necessary from one coupler to the next.  Use a solid carbide drill because they are stiff and will make a hole where they are pointed, not wander about like a typical twist drill.  A really light touch on the Z movement will be essential to avoid going too deep into the coupler. 


I cannot answer your question about exactly where the hole should be.  It think it would be worth buying a package of couplers with the top operating feature to learn just where and how deep the hole is.


Rex Beistle

NMRA RMR

Estes Valley Division


Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

jerry via FMW.com
 

Chris,

I use a Sherline mill and its machining clamp as a sort of built in fixture. I bought several extra sets of jaws for the clamp. They are not expensive and are made of mild steel.

I put the clamp on the table and close the jaws firmly. I cut the general shape of the outline of say a coupler in the jaws. I only cut down X amount so that a shelf is left for the part to sit on. This way you don't need to add a lot of clamping pressure. I don't open the cut out the full width of the pat leaving something to clamp onto. If you take too much width just come back with a end mill and take a bit off the face of the jaws.

My most common set up to just cut a step in the face of the jaws with the jaws clamped. Thus making a square and true step on both jaws. Makes for easy clamping of many parts for hole drilling or other modifications. You may be able to cut the step and just perhaps a small cut out to hold the coupler. The cut out will insure each coupler you put in the jaws will be in exactly the same spot and you can easily do a number of couplers in one session.

Jerry

On Jan 24, 2014, at 8:36 PM, Christopher A. Zurek wrote:

 

Rex,

Thanks. I have this mill right here and I didn't even think of making a fixture...duh!
I talked with a friend this evening that has connections to find a piece of scrap brass bar or structural aluminum that I can use. I'd rather use one of those than steel.

Chris Z.


Jerry Kitts
Foothill Model Works
Visit our web site at
(707) 459-5587



Re: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Frank Sergent
 

Hi Folks,


I clamp a modified assembly fixture in an old Unimat SL to drill the tops on EC87 and EN87 couplers. I just use my finger to push the coupler against the dowel pins in the assembly fixture to make sure I hit the same location each time. The modification of the fixture is basically just some shim material glued to the fixture to support the coupler head while the drill pushes down on it. You can do a bunch this way pretty quickly.


I use #80 carbide drills intended for printed circuit boards at a high speed. You can generally find these on ebay by the pound. Be aware and beware that these are very brittle though. Don't think you can do this without safety glasses. A Seig X2 might be a bit overpowered for this job and vibration might be more than the tiny carbide drills can handle. I think you can buy kits to convert these to belt driven to reduce the vibration. I've got a Seig X2 as well, but I go to the small (really small) Unimat for this job.


I generally just drill in the location that is more or less centered in the raised "D" on top of the coupler horn. Something that should be considered when drilling holes is how you are going the make the loop. I'm not really impressed with the appearance of the commercially available lift rings because they just don't seem to look right on top of the coupler. They are too big. I think you can do better with wire. The process is described somewhere on the website. If you want to go the wire route, you need to offset the hole forward or back of where you want the ring to be.


Frank 

Re: O Scale Shelf Couplers

Frank Sergent
 

Hi Al,


O scale couplers are currently in the "possible" column, but not in the "probable" column for now. As far as shelf couplers in O scale goes, that would seem to be a long shot.


I did just look at the Protocraft site which is interesting. I'm not certain that is a Type E coupler. I would recommend you contact them to see if they intend to broaden their offerings.


Somebody else (whose name I can't remember, somebody please help) makes some very nice looking O scale couplers. They are plastic but they make both Type E (a real type E) and Sharon versions.


Frank


Frank

Re: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Frank Sergent
 

On second thought I don't think a belt drive will help the Sieg X2. You need something with some serious spindle speed like a small drill press from MicroMark, etc.


Frank

Re: [SergentEng] RE: O Scale Shelf Couplers

Aaron Heaney
 

Frank
 
You are thinking of San Juan Car Company.
 
Aaron Heaney


On Saturday, January 25, 2014 11:32 PM, "fsergent@..."
 
Hi Al,

O scale couplers are currently in the "possible" column, but not in the "probable" column for now. As far as shelf couplers in O scale goes, that would seem to be a long shot.

I did just look at the Protocraft site which is interesting. I'm not certain that is a Type E coupler. I would recommend you contact them to see if they intend to broaden their offerings.

Somebody else (whose name I can't remember, somebody please help) makes some very nice looking O scale couplers. They are plastic but they make both Type E (a real type E) and Sharon versions.

Frank

Frank


(No subject)

Alan Hummel
 

Hi Frank. Thank you for your input on O Scale shelf couplers. I got about all I need to put down a great HO layout this time with no size limitations&wouldn't you know it,I bought an O Scale Weaver covered hopper 20+ years ago&the size just keeps me going back&looking at it over&over.  Prices in O Scale are just too expensive,I guess a fellow can always dream though. The company you mentioned that has plastic E couplers is San Quan. They do look nice&are VERY reasonable in price,I been trying to get some just to drool over but can't pull up ordering info. I understand about shelf couplers being a long shot in O as the market is just too limited.
Thanks again,Frank,will be ordering bulk SBE couplers from you soon as well as SE couplers. So glad the production problems in the investment cast products are solved&everything is up&running again.
Remember when we used to talk about magnetically coupled airlines years back? Have you seen the new Magnelock magnetically coupling airlines available from Pacific Western Rail Systems? They really couple&you can turn them 180 degrees &they are supposed work just great according to the video! This defies my logic but guess someone figured it out. They have a video of it even.
Thanks again Frank,have a good one.
Sincerely,Al Hummel

New To The Group

Jacob Damron
 

Hello all. I've been using Sergent couplers and preaching to the lost (LOL) for almost four years now. I sold 99% of what I had and retired from the hobby save for my Twin Star Rocket passenger train project. Alas! Type H couplers!!! Anyways, I'm here snooping around. And back in the game to finish this project. Any other passenger cars nuts feel free to chime in. I may need some help.


Jacob
Fort Worth

Urgent - D&RGW research help needed

Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...>
 

Pardon the multiple posts, but I just got this from a friend.  Can nybody help?
 
Mike Conder

We need urgent help with some information. The letter below from our president, George Neiderauer, is self explanatory. But time is not on our side and we need to have the information by the middle of March to be able to incorporate it into our submission. Please help in anyway you can as even the slightest lead might ensure success. Thank you in advance. For more info visit www.DRHS315.org and please excuse the multiple posting.
Mark Kasprowicz
DRHS Board.

The board of directors of the Durango Railroad Historical Society decided this month to commit to purchase later this year seven rail cars to add to our collection. These cars very rarely come up for sale and this is a once in a lifetime opportunity. Rather than let them fall into private hands where they might never be seen again, we intend to bring them back their former condition and display them in Silverton CO. alongside our restored drop and high sided gons and D&RGW C-18 #315.
We would like to apply for a grant from the State Historical Fund to acquire and restore these cars. However, a SHF prerequisite for applying for a grant is that they be on a local, state or national register. Being a part of the roster of cars on the Silverton Branch when the D&RGW applied in 1961 for a National Historical Landmark for the Silverton Branch qualifies the cars. D&S has no rosters for their freight cars for the period of the 1950s and 1960s, so we need to find some other kind of evidence: photos, documents, text in books, etc.
Please help us search for such evidence in your collection of photos, books, etc. We need to determine their status by March to be able to finish getting the proposal ready to submit by the April 1 deadline.
Here are the cars we are researching:

Stock car, single deck, D&RGW 5627
Stock car, double deck, D&RGW 5564
Flat car, D&RGW 6215
Box car, D&RGW 3670
Outfit car, bunk, water service, D&RGW 04432
Outfit car, tool D&RGW 04351
Flanger OT

We are looking for evidence that any of these cars was on the Silverton Branch or near it (e.g. RGS line, line from Durango to Chama) during the 1950s or 1960s.

If you know of someone or some collection that we should contact or search, please let us know at info@.... We will be searching Durango, Silverton, CRRM, and Denver Public Library collections.

George Niederauer,
President DRHS