Date   
Re: Pilot couplers

Dale Buxton
 

If you put the Sharon's that you mount on the brass tenders end beam in an old Kadee 714 coupler box, the pilot of the second brass engine behind it will NEVER have any through the train shorting out issues. This same fix holds true for any of the all metal (brass) rolling stock that you own. Put those Sharon's in your old Kadee 714 coupler boxes and you will never have any through the car shorting problems. NEVER!


Dale Buxton

The RGS nut

Re: [SergentEng] RE: Pilot couplers

John Short
 

Thanks, Jon.

 

I was hoping that they were isolated, but did not really know.  I did not have a problem with the older Sergent couplers on the old layout, which I had to tear down in order to move.  However, a new (larger) layout is on the way!  Thanks for the quick reply!

 

John

 

From: SergentEng@... [mailto:SergentEng@...] On Behalf Of jzook@...
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2014 9:57 AM
To: SergentEng@...
Subject: [SergentEng] RE: Pilot couplers

 

 

Hi John,

 

I have converted one of my Blackstone's to Sharon couplers on the pilot and the tender.  The locomotive I chose was my K-27 #459, which I also did a snowplow conversion on.  I've had no problems running double headers with this locomotive.  I believe the pilot and tender coupler boxes are isolated from the frame, so this shouldn't be a problem.  BTW, the Sharon looks awesome with the snow plow!  Very prototypical in appearance.  I did have to file down the underside of the plow so the coupler could move side to side more freely.

 

Jon

Re: [SergentEng] Pilot couplers

John Short
 

Thanks, Jon.

 

I have used, in the past, Kadee 714s with my brass locos, so I wasn't concerned.  With the Sergents, I was planning, on the brass locos, to use the plastic Accumate boxes, so that should not pose a problem either.  I was not sure about using the metal coupler in the diecast Blackstone engines, and if there would be a problem with double-heading.

 

Thanks for the quick response.

 

John Short

 

From: SergentEng@... [mailto:SergentEng@...] On Behalf Of John Niemeyer
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2014 10:08 AM
To: SergentEng@...
Subject: Re: [SergentEng] Pilot couplers

 

 

John

 

I have mounted several of the front pilot “E” type couplers (ES1P87) to brass engines. No problems with double heading. I just don’t couple front to front steam engines and have never seen a narrow gauge prototype coupled that way either. The rear couplers on my equipment are all insulated anyway.

 

John



Good morning!

I am in the process of converting my HOn3 rolling stock from Kadee 714 couplers to the new Sergent Engineering Sharon couplers.  Has anyone found a problem with using these diecast couplers on the front pilot of Blackstone locomotives?  I am specifically concerned about a short-circuit when double-heading.  So far, I have seen no negative information regarding this.

By the way, these Sharon couplers are a very easy installation into the Blackstone cars!  Very impressive product!

Thanks in advance for any information that people may provide.

John Short

Re: [SergentEng] RE: Pilot couplers

John Short
 

Thanks, Dale.

 

I would be using the Accumate boxes on the brass locos - I just was not sure if the diecast Blackstone locomotives were somehow isolated to prevent a short if using the metal Sergent coupler on the front and rear of the locomotive.

 

John

 

From: SergentEng@... [mailto:SergentEng@...] On Behalf Of the_one_tuatha_ddana@...
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2014 11:50 AM
To: SergentEng@...
Subject: [SergentEng] RE: Pilot couplers

 

 

If you put the Sharon's that you mount on the brass tenders end beam in an old Kadee 714 coupler box, the pilot of the second brass engine behind it will NEVER have any through the train shorting out issues. This same fix holds true for any of the all metal (brass) rolling stock that you own. Put those Sharon's in your old Kadee 714 coupler boxes and you will never have any through the car shorting problems. NEVER!

 

Dale Buxton

The RGS nut

Re: Pilot couplers

Dale Buxton
 

As a side note here. On D&RG narrow gauge locomotives the couplers did not extend over the pilot cages prow. Meaning, that it was impossible to couple these locomotives pilot to pilot. The pilot prows would strike each other before the coupler knuckles got anywhere near each other. And the only place you will find two locomotives in a train facing opposite directions is in rotary plow trains. But even then, there was a car or caboose between these engines.

Dale Buxton

Re: [SergentEng] Pilot couplers

Dale Buxton
 

WARNING John!


If your new layout has curves with anything less than 24" radius, the Accumate coupler box will not allow your cars trucks to swing all of the distance they need to make the curve. Been there done that! So hold onto those old Kadee 714 coupler boxes. As sure as there are little green apples, There will be some instance come up where you will need them.


Dale Buxton

Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Christopher Zurek
 

I have a pair of stainless steel tweezers. One in totally non-magnetic and the other is not.

The magnetic one has only a very slight amount of magnetism that it got from touching an uncoupling wand. I use that one to pick up springs or balls. I use the non-magnetic one to help place the item and remove it from the magnetic tweezer.

Chris Z.


On 2/6/2014 8:52 AM, Mike Van Hove wrote:
�

Good morning all,

I have had great success with a very small screwdriver. �It's the smallest of the set of drivers that I own.

It has somehow become ever so slightly magnetized. �I can pick up a spring on the end. �I don't try to impale the spring with the screwdriver. �I can guide the spring into the pocket of the coupler with the screwdriver blade, then just hold the spring down with my thumbnail and withdraw the screwdriver. �Works nearly every time.
I also use the same screwdriver to pick up (1) ball Bearing and insert it in the hole in the coupler. �I use a .5 mm lead pencil to hold the ball while I remove the screwdriver.
Like I said, the blade is just barely magnetized. �I'm not sure how well this would work if it were heavily magnetized.

Hope something here may help.

Mike Van Hove
On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:13 AM, Alan Hummel wrote:

�

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble?�Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
�
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer. �I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size. �The reamer saves the day on that count. �Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs. �If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space. �The spring really does help in lining up the couplers. �The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort. �Have fun!

Morgan Reed





Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Alan Hummel
 

Thanks Chris since I need a wand anyway,that kills 2 birds with 1 stone.Uh,ya,something like that. 
Al Hummel


On Friday, February 7, 2014 3:48 PM, Christopher A. Zurek wrote:
 
I have a pair of stainless steel tweezers. One in totally non-magnetic and the other is not.

The magnetic one has only a very slight amount of magnetism that it got from touching an uncoupling wand. I use that one to pick up springs or balls. I use the non-magnetic one to help place the item and remove it from the magnetic tweezer.

Chris Z.


On 2/6/2014 8:52 AM, Mike Van Hove wrote:
 
Good morning all,
I have had great success with a very small screwdriver.  It's the smallest of the set of drivers that I own.

It has somehow become ever so slightly magnetized.  I can pick up a spring on the end.  I don't try to impale the spring with the screwdriver.  I can guide the spring into the pocket of the coupler with the screwdriver blade, then just hold the spring down with my thumbnail and withdraw the screwdriver.  Works nearly every time.
I also use the same screwdriver to pick up (1) ball Bearing and insert it in the hole in the coupler.  I use a .5 mm lead pencil to hold the ball while I remove the screwdriver.
Like I said, the blade is just barely magnetized.  I'm not sure how well this would work if it were heavily magnetized.

Hope something here may help.

Mike Van Hove
On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:13 AM, Alan Hummel wrote:

 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed







Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Alan Hummel
 

Thanks Chris that's nice to know. i need a wand anyhow,so that will be like killing 2 birds with 1 stone,or something like that.  
Thank you.
Al Hummel


On Friday, February 7, 2014 3:49 PM, Christopher A. Zurek wrote:
 
I have a pair of stainless steel tweezers. One in totally non-magnetic and the other is not.

The magnetic one has only a very slight amount of magnetism that it got from touching an uncoupling wand. I use that one to pick up springs or balls. I use the non-magnetic one to help place the item and remove it from the magnetic tweezer.

Chris Z.


On 2/6/2014 8:52 AM, Mike Van Hove wrote:
 
Good morning all,
I have had great success with a very small screwdriver.  It's the smallest of the set of drivers that I own.

It has somehow become ever so slightly magnetized.  I can pick up a spring on the end.  I don't try to impale the spring with the screwdriver.  I can guide the spring into the pocket of the coupler with the screwdriver blade, then just hold the spring down with my thumbnail and withdraw the screwdriver.  Works nearly every time.
I also use the same screwdriver to pick up (1) ball Bearing and insert it in the hole in the coupler.  I use a .5 mm lead pencil to hold the ball while I remove the screwdriver.
Like I said, the blade is just barely magnetized.  I'm not sure how well this would work if it were heavily magnetized.

Hope something here may help.

Mike Van Hove
On Feb 6, 2014, at 6:13 AM, Alan Hummel wrote:

 

Thank you Morgan,I bought a Spring Pic years ago,now the trick is to find the thing!!! Ever have that trouble? Thanks for your input.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel


On Thursday, February 6, 2014 2:24 AM, "morganreed@..." <morganreed@...> wrote:
 
As another person switching from Kadee's to Sergent I join in recommending the reamer.  I have a fair number of Sunshine kits and the mount is of VARIBLE size.  The reamer saves the day on that count.  Another tool I found useful is the Kadee "Pic" for inserting those *###?!!@ little springs.  If you use the tool and your thumb you can install quite a few in a row before one of them launches into space.  The spring really does help in lining up the couplers.  The final visual effect of the Sergent is, in my opinion worth the effort.  Have fun!

Morgan Reed







Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Christopher Zurek
 

Frank,

Any seller on eBay that you recommend for these bits? I have a few right now that I got out of Harbor Freight variety packs, but I'd like to have more in case I break any.

Chris Z.

On 1/25/2014 10:23 PM, fsergent@... wrote:
 
I use #80 carbide drills intended for printed circuit boards at a high speed. You can generally find these on ebay by the pound. Be aware and beware that these are very brittle though. Don't think you can do this without safety glasses. A Seig X2 might be a bit overpowered for this job and vibration might be more than the tiny carbide drills can handle. I think you can buy kits to convert these to belt driven to reduce the vibration. I've got a Seig X2 as well, but I go to the small (really small) Unimat for this job.




Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

George A.Nefstead Sr.
 

Frank,

As I normally do not use Harbor  Freight or E Bay for any tool purchase I can not  recommend  them as a source for small drills.

I generally purchase all my perishable tooling from the links provided below. If for no other reason then quality and knowing that item is new

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-drill-bits/=qm9iz0

 

http://www.mscdirect.com/?cid=ppc-google-Brand+--+P_sXALkJDC7_m%20sc_p_28652162704_c_S&mkwid=sXALkJDC7|dc&pcrid=28652162704&002=2167139&004=8097509704&005=270919242&006=28652162704&007=Search&008=&025=c&026=

 

Two other sources I have dealt with for supplies are  Grizzly Tools & Little Machine Shop . com ( Mainly for larger tooling & Machine parts )

 

Good Luck in your search

 

George @ TVW Miniatures

 

 

 

 

 

From: SergentEng@... [mailto:SergentEng@...] On Behalf Of Christopher A. Zurek
Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2014 1:03 AM
To: SergentEng@...
Subject: Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

 

 

Frank,

Any seller on eBay that you recommend for these bits? I have a few right now that I got out of Harbor Freight variety packs, but I'd like to have more in case I break any.

Chris Z.

On 1/25/2014 10:23 PM, fsergent@... wrote:

 

I use #80 carbide drills intended for printed circuit boards at a high speed. You can generally find these on ebay by the pound. Be aware and beware that these are very brittle though. Don't think you can do this without safety glasses. A Seig X2 might be a bit overpowered for this job and vibration might be more than the tiny carbide drills can handle. I think you can buy kits to convert these to belt driven to reduce the vibration. I've got a Seig X2 as well, but I go to the small (really small) Unimat for this job.

 

 

 

Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

John Niemeyer <jniemeyer@...>
 

I think Frank and his wife are away from the computer until after Feb. 15. It’s posted of his web page.
 
John
 
Frank,

As I normally do not use Harbor  Freight or E Bay for any tool purchase I can not  recommend  them as a source for small drills.

I generally purchase all my perishable tooling from the links provided below. If for no other reason then quality and knowing that item is new

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-drill-bits/=qm9iz0

 

http://www.mscdirect.com/?cid=ppc-google-Brand+--+P_sXALkJDC7_m%20sc_p_28652162704_c_S&mkwid=sXALkJDC7|dc&pcrid=28652162704&002=2167139&004=8097509704&005=270919242&006=28652162704&007=Search&008=&025=c&026=

 

Two other sources I have dealt with for supplies are  Grizzly Tools & Little Machine Shop . com ( Mainly for larger tooling & Machine parts )

 

Good Luck in your search

 

George @ TVW Miniatures

 

 

 

 

 

From: SergentEng@... [mailto:SergentEng@...] On Behalf Of Christopher A. Zurek
Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2014 1:03 AM
To: SergentEng@...
Subject: Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

 

 

Frank,

Any seller on eBay that you recommend for these bits? I have a few right now that I got out of Harbor Freight variety packs, but I'd like to have more in case I break any.

Chris Z.

On 1/25/2014 10:23 PM, fsergent@... wrote:

 

I use #80 carbide drills intended for printed circuit boards at a high speed. You can generally find these on ebay by the pound. Be aware and beware that these are very brittle though. Don't think you can do this without safety glasses. A Seig X2 might be a bit overpowered for this job and vibration might be more than the tiny carbide drills can handle. I think you can buy kits to convert these to belt driven to reduce the vibration. I've got a Seig X2 as well, but I go to the small (really small) Unimat for this job.

 

 

 

Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Arthur Flatray
 

This is one place to get all kinds of drill bits

https://www.drillbitcity.com/Default.asp

 Art


From: Christopher A. Zurek
To: SergentEng@...
Sent: Saturday, February 8, 2014 11:02 PM
Subject: Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

 
Frank,

Any seller on eBay that you recommend for these bits? I have a few right now that I got out of Harbor Freight variety packs, but I'd like to have more in case I break any.

Chris Z.

On 1/25/2014 10:23 PM, fsergent@... wrote:
 
I use #80 carbide drills intended for printed circuit boards at a high speed. You can generally find these on ebay by the pound. Be aware and beware that these are very brittle though. Don't think you can do this without safety glasses. A Seig X2 might be a bit overpowered for this job and vibration might be more than the tiny carbide drills can handle. I think you can buy kits to convert these to belt driven to reduce the vibration. I've got a Seig X2 as well, but I go to the small (really small) Unimat for this job.





Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Jared Harper
 

I use McMaster-Carr.

Jared Harper
Athens, GA


---In SergentEng@..., <zurekc@...> wrote:

Frank,

Any seller on eBay that you recommend for these bits? I have a few right now that I got out of Harbor Freight variety packs, but I'd like to have more in case I break any.

Chris Z.

On 1/25/2014 10:23 PM, fsergent@... wrote:
 
I use #80 carbide drills intended for printed circuit boards at a high speed. You can generally find these on ebay by the pound. Be aware and beware that these are very brittle though. Don't think you can do this without safety glasses. A Seig X2 might be a bit overpowered for this job and vibration might be more than the tiny carbide drills can handle. I think you can buy kits to convert these to belt driven to reduce the vibration. I've got a Seig X2 as well, but I go to the small (really small) Unimat for this job.




Getting back to work

Frank Sergent
 

Hi Folks,
I have been out of the country for two weeks and am just now back and trying to get caught up. I thought I would be able to keep up with my email while away, but that didn't work out so well. Please have patience while we try to get the piles of orders and other requests that have come in over the last two weeks sorted out.
Thanks,
Frank

Re: Draw Bars

Frank Sergent
 

Hi Ian and others,
This sounds pretty easy. Does anyone have drawings or prototype dimensions?
Thanks,
Frank

Re: Bulk RNB87K with draft gear boxes

Frank Sergent
 

Hi Cameron,
The RNB87 couplers have a shortened shank to allow them to be a drop-in replacement into Blackstone draft gear boxes. The RN87 couplers use our standard shank length and come with their own draft gear boxes. We can do those in bulk as well, but I didn't figure there would be enough interest in those to make it a standard product. Contact us offlist if you are interested in a bulk version of the RN87 kits.
Frank   

Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Frank Sergent
 

Hi All,
I have a theory that says a magnetized ball can get you in trouble. Magnetizing the ball is easy. Just pick one up with the magnet on the end of the uncoupling wand and there you go. The theory is that once the ball is magnetized, it will have a north and a south pole. If you try to unlock a coupler that has a magnetized ball and the north pole of the ball happens to be pointing up whilst the north end of the magnetic uncoupling wand is closest to the ball, then the ball will actually be repelled by the wand instead of attracted to the wand - so the coupler won't unlock.
This is a neat theory, but in practice I don't think it matters. I have purposely magnetized balls and marked them so I could tell the north and south end. Then I tried pick them up with the like pole of the uncoupling wand. What happens is that the ball actually spins around in its seat and then snaps up to the uncoupling wand. Bottom line is that I don't recommend letting the balls become magnetized, but I can't really demonstrate that it creates a problem to do so. In the end, I'd say use whatever method works best for you to get the ball in the hole and don't worry too much about the ball becoming magnetized.
Frank

Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Frank Sergent
 

Hi Chris,
I'd love to see a picture of the etched lift ring mounted on the coupler. This is something where I have never come up with what I consider to be an ideal solution.
By the way, my X2 vibrates like crazy. I think quality of these things probably varies a lot. I'm glad you got a good one. I wish I had a good one.
Frank 

Re: [SergentEng] RE: Drilling Holes for Top Operating Detail

Frank Sergent
 

I tend to very often break the extremely brittle carbide drills used to drill the tops on couplers. If I could find a way to chuck up HSS drills so they wouldn't wobble all over the place, I would go that route because they are not anywhere near as brittle as the solid carbide drills. The solid carbide PCB drills have a 1/8" shank that makes them easy to chuck up. In my experience new ones break just as easily as used ones (re-sharpened or otherwise). The only big difference seems to be the price and the level of the sick feeling in your stomach when one snaps. That's why I just get them off ebay. I have also sourced them from drillcity and go there when I need a specific diameter or flute length. Order more than you think you will need, because you will break more than you think you will. As drill size increases, the likelihood of breakage drops considerably. For anything larger than #70, go for the quality stuff. For anything smaller, go for cheap.
In general, I don't like cheap tools, but I make an exception for tiny drills.

Frank