Date   
Re: Draft gear boxes

Alan Hummel
 

I have Intermountain tankers with Accurail Coupler boxes that would've been a "drop in" for Sergent narrow shank SE couplers.
With the narrow shank couplers retired,what course of action is available to me?

Is Intermountain still making these corn syrup tankers with the Accurail boxes or have they upgraded? I've been out of the railroad hobby for several years,as being busy with work has slowed my rail time to almost a halt. Now it's slowly coming back.

Thank you all for your help in advance.

Al Hummel

Re: Draft gear boxes

David Ditmer
 

For what its worth ..... I had emailed Accurail about a month ago on #1031 draft gear box availability.  Eric Cote emailed me yesterday saying that tooling was complete and that "I believe by early to mid next week we can get the #1081 coupler boxes back up on the website and available for ordering again"

Dave Ditmer

Re: Draft gear boxes

David Ditmer
 

Saw yesterday that these draft gear boxes are now available on Accurail website

Dave Ditmer

Best methods for installing Sergents

Andrew
 

Over the past 6months or so I have been converting my rolling stock from Kadee. I have moved quickly through my Accurail and other manufacturers that use screwed on coupler boxes. What are the best ways to get the coupler box lids off of factory or user glued coupler boxes?

Thanks
Andrew

Re: [SergentEng] Best methods for installing Sergents

Nathan Rich
 

I use a knife edge to gently pry things apart, super glue is not permanent. Just follow the lines and be gentle.

Nathan Rich

On Oct 16, 2016 13:03, "Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 

Over the past 6months or so I have been converting my rolling stock from Kadee. I have moved quickly through my Accurail and other manufacturers that use screwed on coupler boxes. What are the best ways to get the coupler box lids off of factory or user glued coupler boxes?

Thanks
Andrew

Re: [SergentEng] Draft gear boxes

Maxime Grenu
 

Hello,

I tried it works fine.

Best regards 
Maxime Grenu 


On Sunday, 2 October 2016, scott.d100@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 

In light of the discussion about the Accurail boxes not being available, has anyone tried using Sergent couplers in the Moloco draft gear boxes?  Would these work best with the compatible or the narrow shank couplers? Or both perhaps?


Re: [SergentEng] Draft gear boxes

Alan Hummel
 

I need narrow shank couplers I'm told, as the Intermountain corn syrup tankers I have,use Accurail draft boxes that Sergent used for their Narrow Shank couplers when available. I tried to see if these could be converted to standard Kadee #5 boxes years back when I was still active in HO,but at that time,Intermountain said the conversion wasn't possible on those particular tankers.

Al Hummel


On Sunday, October 30, 2016 9:28 AM, "Maxime Grenu cluster2600@... [SergentEng]" wrote:


 
Hello,

I tried it works fine.

Best regards 
Maxime Grenu 

On Sunday, 2 October 2016, scott.d100@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 
In light of the discussion about the Accurail boxes not being available, has anyone tried using Sergent couplers in the Moloco draft gear boxes?  Would these work best with the compatible or the narrow shank couplers? Or both perhaps?



Cleasning Castings Before Assembly

John Degnan
 

During cleaning up the castings before assembly, has anyone ever actually broken off the little piece on the knuckle that the ball locks against when the couplers are locked closed?  This piece is the area in red in the attached photo.  I have recently acquired a few micro-sized wire brushes that I'm considering using to clean up the parts prior to assembly, and I'm wondering how careful I should be with these brushes in this extension of the knuckle... or if I should use the brushes at all?

(I ask this about both the HO and S scale couplers, assuming the S coupler to be more durable due to the larger size)


John Degnan

Scaler164@...


Re: [SergentEng] Cleasning Castings Before Assembly

Nathan Rich
 

You shouldn't have any issues. There is, however, sometimes a little piece of flash that you need to nip off on that horn.

As long as you watch four pieces of Walnut husk as you assemble you shouldn't need to really even do any major cleanup.

Nathan Rich

On Nov 3, 2016 19:42, "John Degnan Scaler164@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 

During cleaning up the castings before assembly, has anyone ever actually broken off the little piece on the knuckle that the ball locks against when the couplers are locked closed?  This piece is the area in red in the attached photo.  I have recently acquired a few micro-sized wire brushes that I'm considering using to clean up the parts prior to assembly, and I'm wondering how careful I should be with these brushes in this extension of the knuckle... or if I should use the brushes at all?

(I ask this about both the HO and S scale couplers, assuming the S coupler to be more durable due to the larger size)


John Degnan

Scaler164@...


Re: Cleasning Castings Before Assembly

John Degnan
 

Either I forgot to attach the photo, or Yahoo stripped it,  So... trying again...


John D.



From: "John Degnan"
To: sergenteng@...
Sent: Thursday, November 3, 2016 10:42:33 PM
Subject: Cleasning Castings Before Assembly

During cleaning up the castings before assembly, has anyone ever actually broken off the little piece on the knuckle that the ball locks against when the couplers are locked closed?  This piece is the area in red in the attached photo.  I have recently acquired a few micro-sized wire brushes that I'm considering using to clean up the parts prior to assembly, and I'm wondering how careful I should be with these brushes in this extension of the knuckle... or if I should use the brushes at all?

(I ask this about both the HO and S scale couplers, assuming the S coupler to be more durable due to the larger size)


John Degnan

Scaler164@...



Re: [SergentEng] Cleasning Castings Before Assembly

John Degnan
 

I assume you're referring to the HO couplers?  I wonder if the same is true for the S scale coupler?  Either way... good to know.

By the way... how do you remove this flash?  Nippers?  File?  Something else?


John D.



From: "Nathan Rich thaddeusthudpucker@... [SergentEng]"
To: SergentEng@...
Sent: Thursday, November 3, 2016 10:46:33 PM
Subject: Re: [SergentEng] Cleasning Castings Before Assembly

 

You shouldn't have any issues. There is, however, sometimes a little piece of flash that you need to nip off on that horn.


Re: [SergentEng] Cleasning Castings Before Assembly

Tim L
 

I've only broken the tang off once from memory, and that was one of the
original hand cast couplers. I have filed a bit too much off the end
of the tang on the diecast knuckles before but not broken it.

My usual way to clean the tang is to either just use a hobby knife and
give each side a quick scrape or if really needed a couple of quick
passes with a needle file.

Tim

On 04/11/2016 13:42, John Degnan @Scaler164 [SergentEng] wrote:


During cleaning up the castings before assembly, has anyone ever
actually broken off the little piece on the knuckle that the ball locks
against when the couplers are locked closed? This piece is the area in
red in the attached photo. I have recently acquired a few micro-sized
wire brushes that I'm considering using to clean up the parts prior to
assembly, and I'm wondering how careful I should be with these brushes
in this extension of the knuckle... or if I should use the brushes at all?

(I ask this about both the HO and S scale couplers, assuming the S
coupler to be more durable due to the larger size)


John Degnan

@Scaler164 <mailto:@Scaler164>

Re: [SergentEng] Re: Cleasning Castings Before Assembly [1 Attachment]

Ryan Harris
 

I haven't broken that portion off, but I have a few where I've broken the shank at the hole where the bottom plate attaches. Each time it was during assembly as I pressed the parts together. All three were different styles, too.

The part you have to watch out for is on the very end of the red highlighted part and I don't find it on every knuckle, only one in three or four. Dry fit the knuckle and bottom plate without the ball to make everything works, then assemble the coupler with the ball. If it doesn't work it's pretty easy to find the cause and correct it before final assembly.

Very little cleanup is required. For me I make sure the cavity for the ball is clear as well as the cavities for the nubs on the knuckle. I also make sure the knuckle face is smooth. If those points are good, I dry fit the parts.



Ryan Harris


-------- Original message --------
From: "John Degnan Scaler164@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...>
Date: 11/3/16 22:01 (GMT-06:00)
To: sergenteng@...
Subject: [SergentEng] Re: Cleasning Castings Before Assembly [1 Attachment]

 

Either I forgot to attach the photo, or Yahoo stripped it,  So... trying again...


John D.



From: "John Degnan" <scaler164@...>
To: sergenteng@...
Sent: Thursday, November 3, 2016 10:42:33 PM
Subject: Cleasning Castings Before Assembly

During cleaning up the castings before assembly, has anyone ever actually broken off the little piece on the knuckle that the ball locks against when the couplers are locked closed?  This piece is the area in red in the attached photo.  I have recently acquired a few micro-sized wire brushes that I'm considering using to clean up the parts prior to assembly, and I'm wondering how careful I should be with these brushes in this extension of the knuckle... or if I should use the brushes at all?

(I ask this about both the HO and S scale couplers, assuming the S coupler to be more durable due to the larger size)


John Degnan

Scaler164@...



Re: [SergentEng] Re: Cleasning Castings Before Assembly

Jeff Young
 

I’ve been removing the flash with an X-Acto knife or scalpel, and fishing any walnut pieces out with a straight dental pick. I haven’t broken anything yet, but I’ve only done about 20 of them (all Sharons).

Cheers,
Jeff.

Announcing new coupler gauges for HO standard gauge and narrow gauge models

Mike Conder
 

Pardon the multiple posts, but I'll only post this announcement once.
 
My company, CESCO, has completed and tested designs for a group of coupler gauges for HO stnadard gauge and several  narrow gauge models.  These are 3D printed plastic gauges, so they can be used on live track without shorting out the track.  CESCO has them available for HOn3, Sn3, On3 and HO/On30 installations.
 
The gauges use a design and dimensions taken (with permission) from an article by Jim Vail in the Sept/Oct 1988 issue of the "Narrow Gauge & Shortline Gazette."  Jim also has just published a review of the gauges in the Nov/Dec 2016 issue of the same magazine.
 
CESCO is currently using Shapeways for printing these, and they are available from Wolf Designs at $12/each for the  HOn3, Sn3, and HO/On30 gauges, and $15/each for the On3 coupler (due to its larger size).  CESCO is also working to get them carries by a couple of other vendors.
 
The gauges are also available directly Shapeways as well.  Since these are new products, the gauges have a special introductory price of $9/each for the  HOn3, Sn3, and HO/On30 gauges, and $12/each for the On3 coupler.
 
Direct links to the Shapeways store are as follows:
 

HOn3:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/826G5CLT5/hon3-coupler-gauge?optionId=60755095
 
Sn3:
 
On3:
 

If you have problems with these links, just go to www.shapeways.com and search for CESCO.
 
Email me off-line at vulturenest1 at gmail dot com if you have any questions.
 
Thanks for viewing!
 
Mike COnder - CESCO

Re: [SergentEng] Announcing new coupler gauges for HO standard gauge and narrow gauge models

William Lugg <luggw1@...>
 

So the standard coupler height for HO equipment and On30 equipment is the same? I guess I would have expected On30 equipment to stand a little taller.

I ordered one in HO-On30 and HOn3 just the same; I love the simplicity and the fact that you can get them in a bright color so I can find them when I need them.

Thanks.
Bill Lugg

On 11/21/2016 08:55 AM, Mike Conder vulturenest1@... [SergentEng] wrote:
Pardon the multiple posts, but I'll only post this announcement once.
My company, CESCO, has completed and tested designs for a group of coupler gauges for HO stnadard gauge and several narrow gauge models. These are 3D printed plastic gauges, so they can be used on live track without shorting out the track. CESCO has them available for HOn3, Sn3, On3 and HO/On30 installations.
The gauges use a design and dimensions taken (with permission) from an article by Jim Vail in the Sept/Oct 1988 issue of the "Narrow Gauge & Shortline Gazette." Jim also has just published a review of the gauges in the Nov/Dec 2016 issue of the same magazine.
CESCO is currently using Shapeways for printing these, and they are available from Wolf Designs at $12/each for the HOn3, Sn3, and HO/On30 gauges, and $15/each for the On3 coupler (due to its larger size). CESCO is also working to get them carries by a couple of other vendors.
The gauges are also available directly Shapeways as well. Since these are new products, the gauges have a special introductory price of $9/each for the HOn3, Sn3, and HO/On30 gauges, and $12/each for the On3 coupler.
Direct links to the Shapeways store are as follows:
HO or On30:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/U9NRV6REA/ho-on30-coupler-gauge?optionId=60754347 <https://www.shapeways.com/product/U9NRV6REA/ho-on30-coupler-gauge?optionId=60754347>

HOn3:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/826G5CLT5/hon3-coupler-gauge?optionId=60755095 <https://www.shapeways.com/product/826G5CLT5/hon3-coupler-gauge?optionId=60755095>
Sn3:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/TP7BLPJSR/sn3-coupler-gauge?optionId=60754395 <https://www.shapeways.com/product/TP7BLPJSR/sn3-coupler-gauge?optionId=60754395>
On3:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/BYAB5P7E8/on3-coupler-gauge?optionId=60754450 <https://www.shapeways.com/product/BYAB5P7E8/on3-coupler-gauge?optionId=60754450>

If you have problems with these links, just go to www.shapeways.com <http://www.shapeways.com/> and search for CESCO.
Email me off-line at vulturenest1 at gmail dot com if you have any questions.
Thanks for viewing!
Mike COnder - CESCO

Re: [SergentEng] Announcing new coupler gauges for HO standard gauge and narrow gauge models

Nathan Rich
 

There's something about that that had always bothered me, I personally think that On3 and On30 should use the same height, since most On30 is lazy On3. All this Colorado outline equipment built on a compromise track gauge, but this is not to say that cool stuff can't be done with it.

Cheers
Nathan Rich

 

So the standard coupler height for HO equipment and On30 equipment is
the same? I guess I would have expected On30 equipment to stand a
little taller.

I ordered one in HO-On30 and HOn3 just the same; I love the simplicity
and the fact that you can get them in a bright color so I can find them
when I need them.

Thanks.
Bill Lugg

On 11/21/2016 08:55 AM, Mike Conder vulturenest1@... [SergentEng]
wrote:
> Pardon the multiple posts, but I'll only post this announcement once.
> My company, CESCO, has completed and tested designs for a group of
> coupler gauges for HO stnadard gauge and several narrow gauge
> models. These are 3D printed plastic gauges, so they can be used on
> live track without shorting out the track. CESCO has them available
> for HOn3, Sn3, On3 and HO/On30 installations.
> The gauges use a design and dimensions taken (with permission) from an
> article by Jim Vail in the Sept/Oct 1988 issue of the "Narrow Gauge &
> Shortline Gazette." Jim also has just published a review of the
> gauges in the Nov/Dec 2016 issue of the same magazine.
> CESCO is currently using Shapeways for printing these, and they are
> available from Wolf Designs at $12/each for the HOn3, Sn3, and
> HO/On30 gauges, and $15/each for the On3 coupler (due to its larger
> size). CESCO is also working to get them carries by a couple of other
> vendors.
> The gauges are also available directly Shapeways as well. Since these
> are new products, the gauges have a special introductory price of
> $9/each for the HOn3, Sn3, and HO/On30 gauges, and $12/each for the
> On3 coupler.
> Direct links to the Shapeways store are as follows:
> HO or On30:
> https://www.shapeways.com/product/U9NRV6REA/ho-on30-coupler-gauge?optionId=60754347
> <https://www.shapeways.com/product/U9NRV6REA/ho-on30-coupler-gauge?optionId=60754347>
>
> HOn3:
> https://www.shapeways.com/product/826G5CLT5/hon3-coupler-gauge?optionId=60755095
> <https://www.shapeways.com/product/826G5CLT5/hon3-coupler-gauge?optionId=60755095>
> Sn3:
> https://www.shapeways.com/product/TP7BLPJSR/sn3-coupler-gauge?optionId=60754395
> <https://www.shapeways.com/product/TP7BLPJSR/sn3-coupler-gauge?optionId=60754395>
> On3:
> https://www.shapeways.com/product/BYAB5P7E8/on3-coupler-gauge?optionId=60754450
> <https://www.shapeways.com/product/BYAB5P7E8/on3-coupler-gauge?optionId=60754450>
>
> If you have problems with these links, just go to www.shapeways.com
> <http://www.shapeways.com/> and search for CESCO.
> Email me off-line at vulturenest1 at gmail dot com if you have any
> questions.
> Thanks for viewing!
> Mike COnder - CESCO
>

Re: [SergentEng] Announcing new coupler gauges for HO standard gauge and narrow gauge models

Mike Conder
 

Thanks for the order!

Yes, they added the same height (On30 and HO.) But some prefer the One coupler height for their On30 rolling stock as they feel it looks more prototypical. I will probably be designing a gauge for that as well.

And IIRC, Bachmann cars have a coupler pocket that can be changed to the On3 height from the lower HO height.

Mike Conder

Re: [SergentEng] Announcing new coupler gauges for HO standard gauge and narrow gauge models

Michael McAnally
 

Howdy:

I don't recall that Bachmann has the adjustable coupler box height; I do know that AMS (Accucraft) has the height to HO standard / adjustable to On3, and San Juan Car Co. excellent kits are set to On3, IIRC.

Mike McAnally
Pahrump, NV

Designing for 3D printing

William Lugg <luggw1@...>
 

Just out of curiosity, can you point me to a good tutorial or two about designing parts to be printed in 3D by Shapeways? I've got some items I think might be interesting to try, but haven't a clue how to get started.

I am a Linux user and have been fiddling with with FreeCAD a bit, but applying it to the construction of a model of a real part has so far eluded me. I also have the professional version of QCAD available, but I'm pretty sure that's limited to 2D work.

Thanks.
Bill Lugg