Date   
Re: [SergentEng] Re: Corrosion on couplers

Jason McKee <jdmkee@...>
 

Funny, i haven't had a problem with oxidisation with my sergents and i am in Queensland, i don't do anything different from what i have seen other doing,  mind you i haven't got my new non painted ones built, so maybe that has got something to do with it

 

Jason

Brisbane

 

From: SergentEng@... [mailto:SergentEng@...]
Sent: Wednesday, 4 May 2016 12:23 AM
To: SergentEng@...
Subject: Re: [SergentEng] Re: Corrosion on couplers

 

 

I'm not so sure that humidity alone was the cause of the problem, it can
get quite humid here and I've not experienced it, assembled or not;
though my assembled couplers seem to get a good amount of graphite in
them when using the pencil.

The white powder is oxidisation, essentially rust for Zinc. The only way
I can think of to get that much oxidisation is a galvanic reaction
between the zinc coupler and stainless steel ball, and given the size
of the ball that's got to be a huge long shot.

Anyway, nice to see another Oz member (from my state to boot) here using
Sergents.

Tim
Land of OZ

On 03/05/2016 18:14, michael.graff@... [SergentEng] wrote:
>
>
> This must be a humidity issue...
> I have unassembled couplers in an open box at my desk, and they show no
> sign of corrosion.
> The white powder mentioned before is probably a zinc residue and as such
> it is very moisture sensitive.

Re: Corrosion on couplers

Dave Snyder
 

Mark, I would think that any spray can automotive primer paint would coat the Sergents and inhibit any further oxidation. And even Rust-Oleum doesnt remove the oxidation, it just binds to it. The NoOx is a grease like substance that I have tried with mixed results on rail and wheel wipers, etc.
It really did not remove oxidation well and polishing the rail before application gave the longest lasting results. I doubt paint would adhere to it
well because of its petroleum properties.

Dave Snyder
Louisville, Ky.

Re: Corrosion on couplers

Mark
 

Hi Dave.

Thanks for your reply.  

I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong.....but it is my current understanding is that ruskolium is a product that uniquely has some sort of propitiates that make it much better than just using a generic automotive undercoat for these couplers.  It somehow acts as a anode and is not just a covering for the metal.

Secondly it is again my understanding that when you paint the couplers the instructions require not painting the operational surfaces so as not to interfere with the fine tolerances involved.

What I had envisaged was first painting as specified in the instructions then brushing a tiny amount of No-Ox on those working surfaces.  Ensuring I get off as much of the No-Ox  off the coupler before final assembly.  

Using No-Ox "may" protect the unpainted portions of the coupler.

Mark

Ps that ebay No-Ox seems cheap, thanks for the heads up.

Re: Corrosion on couplers

Dave Snyder
 

Mark, I wasn't suggesting that you spray paint the operational surfaces of the couplers. I was going by Frank Sergents recommendations for
rattlecan spraying the couplers, check his website. Per the Rust-Oleum website, what started as a fish/whale oil additive to paint to the modern
conglomerate is an amazing journey that doesn't readily disclose the chemical complexities of their products, trade secrets I suppose. Maybe you would share your results with us as you progress, I'm always open to enlightenment.

Dave Snyder
Louisville, Ky.  Derby day is imminent. 

Assembly step 1, knuckle flash

Andrew
 

What is the easiest way to perform step 1 on the knuckle?

Andrew

Re: [SergentEng] Assembly step 1, knuckle flash

Jeff Young
 

X-acto knife (or even better a scalpel) and one of those magnifying fluorescent ring lights.  (Well, I don’t know about “easiest”, but that’s how I do them anyway.  In my experience you won’t find any flash on about 80% of them, but you still need to do the step for the 1 in 5 that does have some.)

Cheers,
Jeff.

On 5 May 2016, at 13:36, Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:

What is the easiest way to perform step 1 on the knuckle?  

Andrew


Re: [SergentEng] Assembly step 1, knuckle flash

Andrew
 

Jeff and all,

I should have been more specific with my original question.   How do you hold the knuckle while scraping the flash off of it?

Andrew

On May 6, 2016, at 7:10 AM, "Jeff Young jeff@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:

 

X-acto knife (or even better a scalpel) and one of those magnifying fluorescent ring lights.  (Well, I don’t know about “easiest”, but that’s how I do them anyway.  In my experience you won’t find any flash on about 80% of them, but you still need to do the step for the 1 in 5 that does have some.)


Cheers,
Jeff.

On 5 May 2016, at 13:36, Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:

What is the easiest way to perform step 1 on the knuckle?  

Andrew


Re: [SergentEng] Assembly step 1, knuckle flash

Darren Boes
 

I always hook the pulling face under the fingernail on my left index finger, so I can wield the xacto knife in my right hand with the correct portion of the knuckle facing up. I'm righthanded though, not sure how a southpaw would do it.

Darren Boes 

On Sat, May 7, 2016 at 1:27 AM, Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng]
wrote:
 

Jeff and all,

I should have been more specific with my original question.   How do you hold the knuckle while scraping the flash off of it?

Andrew

On May 6, 2016, at 7:10 AM, "Jeff Young jeff@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:

 

X-acto knife (or even better a scalpel) and one of those magnifying fluorescent ring lights.  (Well, I don’t know about “easiest”, but that’s how I do them anyway.  In my experience you won’t find any flash on about 80% of them, but you still need to do the step for the 1 in 5 that does have some.)


Cheers,
Jeff.

On 5 May 2016, at 13:36, Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:

What is the easiest way to perform step 1 on the knuckle?  

Andrew


Re: [SergentEng] Assembly step 1, knuckle flash

Tim L
 

I too normally just hold it between thumb and forefinger. It is a bit
awkward until you get used to it but it isn't too bad.

Something I'm going to try is drilling a shallow hole the "diameter"
and depth-to-tang of the knuckle in a piece of wood or something, then
I can just place the knuckle in the hole (the tang resting on the piece
of wood) and then I can just use light finger pressure to hold it there
to clean up the tang.

Tim

On 07/05/2016 17:27, Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng] wrote:


Jeff and all,

I should have been more specific with my original question. How do you
hold the knuckle while scraping the flash off of it?

Andrew

On May 6, 2016, at 7:10 AM, "Jeff Young jeff@...
<mailto:jeff@...> [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...
<mailto:SergentEng@...>> wrote:



X-acto knife (or even better a scalpel) and one of those magnifying
fluorescent ring lights. (Well, I don’t know about “easiest”, but
that’s how I do them anyway. In my experience you won’t find any
flash on about 80% of them, but you still need to do the step for the
1 in 5 that does have some.)


Cheers,
Jeff.

On 5 May 2016, at 13:36, Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@...
<mailto:ihtsbih_2014@...> [SergentEng]
<SergentEng@... <mailto:SergentEng@...>> wrote:

What is the easiest way to perform step 1 on the knuckle?

Andrew

Re: [SergentEng] Assembly step 1, knuckle flash

Andrew
 

Tim,

That sounds like a good idea,  I might try that.  I cut one of my fingers the other day while doing this.  Also do both sides need to be burnished or just one?

Andrew

On May 7, 2016, at 1:05 PM, "TS egroupstuff@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:

 

I too normally just hold it between thumb and forefinger. It is a bit
awkward until you get used to it but it isn't too bad.

Something I'm going to try is drilling a shallow hole the "diameter"
and depth-to-tang of the knuckle in a piece of wood or something, then
I can just place the knuckle in the hole (the tang resting on the piece
of wood) and then I can just use light finger pressure to hold it there
to clean up the tang.

Tim

On 07/05/2016 17:27, Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng]
wrote:
>
>
> Jeff and all,
>
> I should have been more specific with my original question. How do you
> hold the knuckle while scraping the flash off of it?
>
> Andrew
>
> On May 6, 2016, at 7:10 AM, "Jeff Young jeff@...
> <mailto:jeff@...> [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...
> <mailto:SergentEng@...>> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> X-acto knife (or even better a scalpel) and one of those magnifying
>> fluorescent ring lights. (Well, I don’t know about “easiest”, but
>> that’s how I do them anyway. In my experience you won’t find any
>> flash on about 80% of them, but you still need to do the step for the
>> 1 in 5 that does have some.)
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Jeff.
>>
>>> On 5 May 2016, at 13:36, Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@...
>>> <mailto:ihtsbih_2014@...> [SergentEng]
>>> <SergentEng@... <mailto:SergentEng@...>> wrote:
>>>
>>> What is the easiest way to perform step 1 on the knuckle?
>>>
>>> Andrew
>>>
>>
>

Re: [SergentEng] Assembly step 1, knuckle flash

Tim L
 

You should only have to do one side, the side with the little depression
where the ejector pin pushed the knuckle out of the mold.

I will note that I don't (currently) use a knife for this but I use a
small fine needle file. No cut fingers!

I've not really had any flash in this area, mostly what I find when I
do find something is that the very pointy end of the tang has some extra
material that prevents the knuckle from fully opening (or closing, I
forget which), and this is fairly rare as well.

I was thinking further to my idea and instead of trying to drill a
shallow hole I'll find something, like sheet styrene whose thickness
matches the depth-to-tang measurement, drill a hold all the way through
and then screw or glue that to a piece of wood or something.

Tim

On 08/05/2016 18:10, Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng] wrote:


Tim,

That sounds like a good idea, I might try that. I cut one of my
fingers the other day while doing this. Also do both sides need to be
burnished or just one?

Andrew

Coupler style for 1970 era SP engines

Rob Briney
 

I model the 70s with The SP and ATSF in The Central Valley of California. I was wondering what style of coupler would be correct for that time period for my Engines.
Thanks in advance for any help I can get.
Rob Briney

Re: Coupler style for 1970 era SP engines

Dave Snyder
 

No easy answer Rob. Best practice is to find period pictures and identify by using the NMRA coupler file in this groups files section. Remember that freight and passenger locos could use different couplers.

Dave Snyder
Louisville, Ky.

[SergentEng] Coupler style for 1970 era SP engines

Nathan Rich
 

Most pictures of freight locomotives from that time that I have seen have the usual E heads. Passenger locomotives usually had H heads at that time. I would check roster shots of your specific locomotives to try to find which coupler they had.

It seems to be in more recent years that passenger locomotives and some freight engines, especially those in rotary dump coal train service, have started getting F heads. 

Nathan Rich


On Monday, May 9, 2016, davesnyder59@... [SergentEng] <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 

No easy answer Rob. Best practice is to find period pictures and identify by using the NMRA coupler file in this groups files section. Remember that freight and passenger locos could use different couplers.

Dave Snyder
Louisville, Ky.

Re: [SergentEng] Coupler style for 1970 era SP engines

Rob Briney
 

Thank you gentlemen for your input. Though I was in high school and college during those years, I wasn't putting much of my studies into my life long love of trains!
Rob

Couplers ?

CTW W
 

Do they only make these in H O?   I'm looking for them in N scale 

Re: [SergentEng] Couplers ?

John Niemeyer <jniemeyer@...>
 

CT W
 
Here is a comparison of the “HO” scale Sharon coupler next to a Micro Train Line “N” scale coupler. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/SergentEng/photos/albums/573633332/lightbox/883904003?orderBy=ordinal&sortOrder=asc&photoFilter=ALL#zax/883904003
 
You decide if that is close enough.
 
John

Do they only make these in H O?   I'm looking for them in N scale
 

Re: [SergentEng] Couplers ?

CTW W
 


Those couplers are very realistic hopefully they will fit in N scale freight and locomotives

On Tue, May 17, 2016 at 8:39 PM, 'John Niemeyer' jniemeyer@... [SergentEng]
wrote:
 

CT W
 
Here is a comparison of the “HO” scale Sharon coupler next to a Micro Train Line “N” scale coupler. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/SergentEng/photos/albums/573633332/lightbox/883904003?orderBy=ordinal&sortOrder=asc&photoFilter=ALL#zax/883904003
 
You decide if that is close enough.
 
John

Do they only make these in H O?   I'm looking for them in N scale
 

h-2-a couplers,(Rapid transit type couplers,NYCTA)

Martin Matsil
 

did anyone produce an HO-scale model of the Westinghouse h-2-a type tightlock coupler as used on the BMT,standards,Triplex,and IND R-1/9 subway cars.I am talking about a working model,of the same  coupler.Thanks,and  God bless.

On30 Application

Charles Owen
 

I have completed assembly of two pairs of S scale Sergent couplers that I intend to test on my On30 layout.  However, I am concerned by the lack of draft gear boxes to mount the couplers - I have noted the mention of John Degnan draft gear boxes as well as the Kadee #802 boxes. 


Several questions come to mind:


a).  Are either gear boxes readily available?


b).  Has anyone utilized Sergent couplers on Bachmann On30 EBT coal hoppers - is there a simple conversion process to facilitate this work?


c).  When using the S scale Sergent couplers for On30, is it best to use the couplers at the standard HO Bachmann coupler height or is it better to raise the coupler height to the On3 standard?  It appears that Bachmann On30 equipment was built with that possibility, even though the couplers are supplied at the HO level.


The use of Sergent S scale requires a rather expensive conversion process and hopefully there is a reasonable solution to the questions above.  I really think that the realistic appearance and operational aspects warrant the fullest consideration of the Sergent couplers.


Thanks for your thoughts.


C. Owen

Louisville, KY