The other way to try if you don't like the idea of thinning the shank
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
is to build up the coupler box with some thin styrene, effectively
making the coupler box deeper. I'll have to do this with some of
Another thing to watch out for, since you bought up the centre post in
the coupler box, I have found on not so great designed models this can
be fattened by the lid screw making it hard to get the coupler over the
post but the post is still the right diameter where the coupler sits.
Reaming the coupler in this case would make it a sloppy fit on the
centre post. I haven't figured out a good way of dealing with these
except to force the coupler onto the post.
Best to you all,
On 17/08/2015 03:04, Alan Hummel ahummel72@... [SergentEng] wrote:
I'm still in the experiment stage with mounting Sergent couplers in
various rolling stock & diesel draft boxes.
So far,Intermountain rolling stock is mostly a "drop in" procedure.
Tangent 4750 cvd grain hoppers & Athearn,represent varing degrees of
Tangent is a "NO GO" as when the coupler cover is installed the couplers
won't turn side to side to at all. They come with Kadee #58s
installed,&they work about right. I compared the shank thickness &
there's a "tad" bit more thickness on the Sergent coupler,which is all
that's required for failure to swing back & forth,but am reluctant to
start filing down the coupler shank. Could it be that the post spreads
just enough when the screw is installed that's holding the coupler from
swinging instead of the shank thickness? If this is the case,I bought
the Sergent Reamer. I need to do more experimentation,but just wondered
if anyone else has had this similar problem & has the answer for me.
Also,should I use longer shank SBE couplers on SD40-2s & on cars such
as 72ft centerbeam flat's & 89ft auto carriers?
Many thanks to all for your help.*:) happy