I have recently been swapping out all my Kadee couplers. From my point of view you are taking on a similar adventure. First, buy a bulk pack of both the narrow shank with the boxes as well as a bulk pack of compatible shank. This way you will have what ever the conversion calls for. So far I have had to ream out the hole, thin the shank and shim the shank to get various conversions completed. Just like any coupler you would use the conversion is as good or as bad as you make it. I have actually ended up carving off a compatible shank box to install a narrow shank box because once I completed the converting it just didn't look right. Some cars you have to be very careful not to break anything, specifically the Kadee cars are a pain to get the coupler box off the car frame.
Of you have any questions just let me
know, my adventure continues!
I model Accurail 4600 cu ft covered grain hoppers,Atlas 2 bay cvd hoppers to a very small degree,Intermountain 4750 cu ft & a few of their cylindrical cvd hoppers. Most of my tank cars are from Athearn,with a few from Atlas& Walthers. Boxcars are mostly Athearn. I have 1 72' centerbeam from Walthers& an 89' auto carrier also from Walthers. I'm looking to install Compatible shank SBE couplers on most of my freight cars&diesel loco's with standard E couplers too. SE couplers will go on all my tank cars.
I didn't mean to ramble here,but are there certain cars from the builders I've mentioned or locomotives that require a certain
coupler? I forgot to mention that all locomotives are GP-38s,GP-40-2's from Atlas with SD-40-2's & two GP-35's from Kato. Oh
there's 1 GP40-2 from Athearn. I remember when Frank 1st diecast the standard E coupler,when put on an Accurail cvd grain hopper,it seemed as though the coupler was a little snug fitting on the post in the coupler,(draft gear),box. This is why I'm concerned. Am thinking about taking my 1st try at assembling the144 Compatible Shank SBE couplers.
Would appreciate all input from modelers on this subject.