Re: [SergentEng] (unknown)

Alan Hummel

Sounds like a mess Ross,but I've had more messes than I can remember in my time with Kadees. Shimming to get the proper height mostly. Then some of the cars would wobble. I started with Frank Sergent when he was still making couplers out of white metal. We had many phone conversations. Then he finally diecast the E coupler. But since I model mostly modern era,from the '80's to present day,I needed shelf couplers,but Frank said there was just no call for them. I stayed with the Kadees until the shelf couplers came out. I made a $500 order but that was at the time when problems developed with the investmant cast couplers. This went for 11/2 years before I cancelled my order. Then finally&thankfully Sergent solved that problem&everything seems to be back on line again. I hope I can put the couplers together.(?) I plan to purchase all the assembly tools needed for that purpose to make it as easy as possible. I have " helping hands alligator clips&magnifiers of various types,so am hoping things will go smoothly. My eyes water badly & am afraid even with magnification,it might not go as smoothly as I hope. Are there any conversions that might require the extended shank length such as with SD-40-2's? I plan to xpand my track radiuses to probably 26"-28". I've had 22"&19" on my 4'x8',but am in the process of cleaning out our basement which should allow about 12' in widthx50' in length. I'll only use small widths though,absolutely no more than 4'.
I thought I might buy a few assembled coupler packs to try different installations,thinking that might also help me to see what type couplers I need with what cars,so I know what to&what not to buy in bulk. It's only a guess,but I'm thinking since the SBE couplers are offered in bulk since they're now entirely diecast,that the SE couplers might not be too far out until they become fully diecast also.(?)
Thanks again for your great information Ross.
Best Regards,
Alan Hummel

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 9:20 PM, Ross wrote:
I have recently been swapping out all my Kadee couplers. From my point of view you are taking on a similar adventure. First, buy a bulk pack of both the narrow shank with the boxes as well as a bulk pack of compatible shank. This way you will have what ever the conversion calls for. So far I have had to ream out the hole, thin the shank and shim the shank to get various conversions completed. Just like any coupler you would use the conversion is as good or as bad as you make it. I have actually ended up carving off a compatible shank box to install a narrow shank box because once I completed the converting it just didn't look right. Some cars you have to be very careful not to break anything, specifically the Kadee cars are a pain to get the coupler box off the car frame. 
Of you have any questions just let me know, my adventure continues!

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 5, 2014, at 6:58 PM, Alan Hummel <ahummel72@...> wrote:

I model Accurail 4600 cu ft covered grain hoppers,Atlas 2 bay cvd hoppers to a very small degree,Intermountain 4750 cu ft & a few of their cylindrical cvd hoppers. Most of my tank cars are from Athearn,with a few from Atlas& Walthers. Boxcars are mostly Athearn. I have 1 72' centerbeam from Walthers& an 89' auto carrier also from Walthers. I'm looking to install Compatible shank SBE couplers on most of my freight cars&diesel loco's with standard E couplers too. SE couplers will go on all my tank cars.
I didn't mean to ramble here,but are there certain cars from the builders I've mentioned or locomotives that require a certain coupler? I forgot to mention that all locomotives are GP-38s,GP-40-2's from Atlas with SD-40-2's & two GP-35's from Kato. Oh there's 1 GP40-2 from Athearn. I remember when Frank 1st diecast the standard E coupler,when put on an Accurail cvd grain hopper,it seemed as though the coupler was a little snug fitting on the post in the coupler,(draft gear),box. This is why I'm concerned. Am thinking about taking my 1st try at assembling the144 Compatible Shank SBE couplers.
Would appreciate all input from modelers on this subject.
Thank you,all.
Sincerely'Alan Hummel

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