34 Targa Fuele Sending unit #sabre34MkII


alex.ivatchev@...
 

My Fuel gauge stopped working and I suspect it's the sending unit. Anyone can help identify the fuel sending unit? It is a Moeller part with F348 N13 markings. Had no luck with Google. 

Thanks,

Alex


David Lochner
 

Forget the sending units that are floating arms. Eventually the float get saturated or the joints get cruded up and they no longer work.

Take a look at these from Kus. They work on reed switches. The hole pattern is a standard SAE 5 bolt pattern.  I’ve had one for several year with not problem and this spring I’m installing them in the water tanks and holding tank. In the past they were branded as WEMA.



Dave
Second Star
S362 #113
Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario

On Mar 16, 2021, at 9:18 AM, alex.ivatchev@... wrote:

My Fuel gauge stopped working and I suspect it's the sending unit. Anyone can help identify the fuel sending unit? It is a Moeller part with F348 N13 markings. Had no luck with Google. 

Thanks,

Alex



David Popken
 

Dave,

A minor hijack of this thread.  Do you know of or have any experience with the tank sensors that use an external attachments?  I would love to have tank level feedback, but I'm leery of drilling holes into them to achieve that feedback.

Dave



On Tuesday, March 16, 2021, 08:22:58 AM CDT, David Lochner via groups.io <davelochner@...> wrote:


Forget the sending units that are floating arms. Eventually the float get saturated or the joints get cruded up and they no longer work.

Take a look at these from Kus. They work on reed switches. The hole pattern is a standard SAE 5 bolt pattern.  I’ve had one for several year with not problem and this spring I’m installing them in the water tanks and holding tank. In the past they were branded as WEMA.



Dave
Second Star
S362 #113
Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario

On Mar 16, 2021, at 9:18 AM, alex.ivatchev@... wrote:

My Fuel gauge stopped working and I suspect it's the sending unit. Anyone can help identify the fuel sending unit? It is a Moeller part with F348 N13 markings. Had no luck with Google. 

Thanks,

Alex



David Lochner
 

I obsessed about this all winter. The issue with the external tank sensors, like the SCAD sensors is access to the side of the tank. Of the 3 tanks that I wanted to monitor, 2 water, 1 waste, only one tank had easy external access. SCAD uses a capacitance sensor and not a restive sensor. That means only their gauges will work and with 3 tanks I would need 2 gauges.

Drilling holes in tanks is a bit anxiety producing. I wasn’t too worried about the water tanks because once the level dropped some in the tank, a leak would be unlikely and not problematic. The holding tank was another issue, especially with the location of the tank on the 362. 

After much obsessing, I went with 3 monitors from KUS with Navico Tank Sensor Modules to connect them to the N2K network. Defender has a sale on a Simrad GO7 XSR, so I bought that to mount at the Nav Station as a tank monitor and remote instrument display. I’ll run an ethernet cable between the router and the Simrad so it will also display radar. Could be handy for monitoring the boats position at anchor. 

Before drilling the holes and mounting the sending units, I plan to practice on scrap plywood. Drill the holes and install the sensors to see how many times I drop the screws into the tank.  :)


Dave
Second Star
S362 #113
Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario

On Mar 16, 2021, at 9:40 AM, David Popken <dpopken@...> wrote:

Dave,

A minor hijack of this thread.  Do you know of or have any experience with the tank sensors that use an external attachments?  I would love to have tank level feedback, but I'm leery of drilling holes into them to achieve that feedback.

Dave



On Tuesday, March 16, 2021, 08:22:58 AM CDT, David Lochner via groups.io <davelochner@...> wrote:


Forget the sending units that are floating arms. Eventually the float get saturated or the joints get cruded up and they no longer work.

Take a look at these from Kus. They work on reed switches. The hole pattern is a standard SAE 5 bolt pattern.  I’ve had one for several year with not problem and this spring I’m installing them in the water tanks and holding tank. In the past they were branded as WEMA.



Dave
Second Star
S362 #113
Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario

On Mar 16, 2021, at 9:18 AM, alex.ivatchev@... wrote:

My Fuel gauge stopped working and I suspect it's the sending unit. Anyone can help identify the fuel sending unit? It is a Moeller part with F348 N13 markings. Had no luck with Google. 

Thanks,

Alex




Harry Keith
 

I had to replace one of these reed switch sensors on a fuel tank last year. I agree with Dave on their reliability and functionality. One issue to be concerned about though is length.

The first issue is trying to get a very clear definition of the length of the actual sensor. They tend to list tank depths, not sensor length.

The other issue is that there are different brands, and some have 2-in increments. Even 1 in is a problem in a tank that is only 16-in high.

I struggled to get a gauge to fit. The one I ended up with is actually rated for a larger tank than mine. I wanted the float to hit the bottom of the gauge when the tank was empty. I guess an argument could be made to have it read zero when there is still several gallons left in the tank, as a safety buffer, but I would rather know the actual level and the tank and use my brain as a safety buffer. Kind of like building a 2-ft offset into your depth gauge to keep you from running around - not my style.

The point of this ramble is to try and find a gauge that gives you the best possible range of readings.

On Tue, Mar 16, 2021, 6:23 AM David Lochner via groups.io <davelochner=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:
Forget the sending units that are floating arms. Eventually the float get saturated or the joints get cruded up and they no longer work.

Take a look at these from Kus. They work on reed switches. The hole pattern is a standard SAE 5 bolt pattern.  I’ve had one for several year with not problem and this spring I’m installing them in the water tanks and holding tank. In the past they were branded as WEMA.



Dave
Second Star
S362 #113
Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario

On Mar 16, 2021, at 9:18 AM, alex.ivatchev@... wrote:

My Fuel gauge stopped working and I suspect it's the sending unit. Anyone can help identify the fuel sending unit? It is a Moeller part with F348 N13 markings. Had no luck with Google. 

Thanks,

Alex



David Lochner
 

Harry,

The Kus tank sensors come in ½” increments up to 19” and 1” increments after. Measuring the tank depth was a challenge so I opted for a shorter one. The company recommends a waste tank sensor of not more than ¾” of the tank depth. This keeps the sender float clear of the stuff floating at the bottom. And at least with a waste tank, the it is critical to know when it is getting close to full.


Dave
Second Star
S362 #113
Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario

On Mar 16, 2021, at 3:15 PM, Harry Keith <sailor11767@...> wrote:

I had to replace one of these reed switch sensors on a fuel tank last year. I agree with Dave on their reliability and functionality. One issue to be concerned about though is length.

The first issue is trying to get a very clear definition of the length of the actual sensor. They tend to list tank depths, not sensor length.

The other issue is that there are different brands, and some have 2-in increments. Even 1 in is a problem in a tank that is only 16-in high.

I struggled to get a gauge to fit. The one I ended up with is actually rated for a larger tank than mine. I wanted the float to hit the bottom of the gauge when the tank was empty. I guess an argument could be made to have it read zero when there is still several gallons left in the tank, as a safety buffer, but I would rather know the actual level and the tank and use my brain as a safety buffer. Kind of like building a 2-ft offset into your depth gauge to keep you from running around - not my style.

The point of this ramble is to try and find a gauge that gives you the best possible range of readings.

On Tue, Mar 16, 2021, 6:23 AM David Lochner via groups.io <davelochner=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:
Forget the sending units that are floating arms. Eventually the float get saturated or the joints get cruded up and they no longer work.

Take a look at these from Kus. They work on reed switches. The hole pattern is a standard SAE 5 bolt pattern.  I’ve had one for several year with not problem and this spring I’m installing them in the water tanks and holding tank. In the past they were branded as WEMA.



Dave
Second Star
S362 #113
Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario

On Mar 16, 2021, at 9:18 AM, alex.ivatchev@... wrote:

My Fuel gauge stopped working and I suspect it's the sending unit. Anyone can help identify the fuel sending unit? It is a Moeller part with F348 N13 markings. Had no luck with Google. 

Thanks,

Alex






Carter Brey
 

There's another reason to avoid floating-arm units: inner tank baffles. Several years ago I had the original sending unit fail on my fuel tank and without much forethought bought the common Moeller floating-arm unit as a replacement from the local chandlery in whatever harbor I was in. After a visit to the fuel dock I couldn't figure out why it never showed more than half full. Branding the unit as a pessimist didn't seem to be the answer.

Finally, after recalling that the failed unit had had a compound joint system with a restricted swing radius, I realized that it must have been customized to swing its entire radius from empty to full within the confines of two baffles inside the tank. I had noticed the unusual design but had not made the functional connection.

I replaced the replacement with a WEMA unit and all has been fine for several years.

Carter
S38-II Atlantea