Date   

Re: Proto 2000 Wiring Diagram

peteski7
 

Frank,
Does your decoder look similar to this one?


Peteski


Re: Locos shutting down

Paul B/Indy
 

Excellent info.  I belong to a ‘remoter and regear’ list, and we just discussed this about P2K engines…

From the list… re: the bearings on the shafts/axles

"They are also the same material as the worm shaft bearings and motor bearings.  I think they either swell or corrode or both.  The result is binding at multiple points.  They resemble Athearn’s oilite bearings in terms of appearance but they don’t perform the same way.

Everybody has different issues but some have soldered jump wires directly to the axle bearing blocks to improve pickup.  Something is clearly amiss here.”
 
Note that this mentions both ‘binding’ and ‘jumper wires’.  Two diff issues, but your issue is included.  (the discussion was much longer than this one clip)

I suggest that you replace the bearings with Athearn oillite bearings or resign yourself to using a conductive lube periodically.  The power/electricity is not getting from the track to the decoder.  Not a QSI issue, rather, it is a P2K issue.

Good luck!

Paul B/Indy


On Jul 31, 2021, at 7:00 PM, Ray Di Ciacca <raydiciacca@...> wrote:

This does not happen at the same time Each loco is the only one on the layout and it happens on two separate layouts. the first time it happened I sent the complete loco after many comments from Kelley to QSI he said he found it was a conductivity problem, spray the axels with fixit D5 and sent it back. this was fine for a week the it started again. I find it odd that all these locos with factory installed decoders relatively new units all have the same problem.
Ray

On Jul 31, 2021, at 6:39 PM, Steve Haas <Goatfisher2@...> wrote:

Ray Di Ciacca comments: 
 
“I have now come across three diesel locos that shut down for no apparent reason. They are running fine then stop dead. they are all Proto 2000. I have cleaned the wheels, but this is only a temporary fix.The stop then start up again but as soon as they move they shut down. Any suggestions.
Ray”
 
Ray,
 
Greg and Phil have both provide good suggestions giving you things to check out.  Here are a couple other thoughts to help you resolve this:
 
  1. You mention this happens with three engines; 
    1. are these in consist and on the track at the same time, 
    2. in consist, but only one on the track at the same time,
    3. not in consist and on the track at the same time, or
    4. not in consist and only one on the track?
  2. You mention start then stop, then start again.
    1. By far the most common cause of this behavior is having the engine(s)/consist addressed by more than one of your DCC cabs.  The engines are getting a “run at speed step X” from one cab, followed shortly thereafter by a “run at zero speed” from another cab .  When the command station checks with the first cab, it will again tell the engine(s)/consist to run at “speed step X”, followed by another conversation with the second cab that tells the command station to tell the consist to “run at zero speed”.  The result of all this is the locomotive behavior you see.
    2. A second possibility is an intermittent short in the wiring of one or more (or all) of the engines in question.  In this scenario the movement of the various components of the engine can cause a wire to move creating a short, causing either the booster or the circuit breaker to trip, causing the units to stop, only to resume movement when the booster/circuit breaker resets.  
                                                               i.      Pop the shell off the engine and watch closely as it moves
                                                             ii.      Check all the wires to make sure there are no strands of wire separated from the rest of that wire and inadvertently contacting something else, and
                                                           iii.      Check for any wearing on the sides of wires where the wire is exposed and could possibly come in contact with other wires and/or other components of the locomotive thereby causing a short. 
    1. A third possibility is one or more of the engines drawing too much current, again causing the booster and/or circuit breaker to trip to protect itself.  You also mentioned the three engines in question were P2K;
                                                               i.      Some early P2K engines (the E7’s come to mind, there _might_ have been others) had motors that drew excessive amperage.
                                                             ii.      P2K and other China built locomotives are notorious for lubes and grease that turn into solid “Peanut Butter” over time.  The best solution for this is to completely disassemble the mechanism, clean all parts thoroughly in Dawn and water, using a tooth brush (and other tools as necessary, then re-assemble the mechanism piece by piece, lubricating with _sparing_ amounts of the appropriate hobby lubes, oils and grease. Test as you go for fit and smooth, friction free performance.
                                                           iii.      While you have the motor out of the unit, check and make sure _it_ is performing well.  Motors used in P2K and other models have been known to lock up when left unused for extended periods of time.  Careful, sparing application of bearing lubes to the motor bearings will help here. If the motor seems to be locked up, apply a bit of gentle five finger torque to break it free.  Your motor should run smoothly with as little power as a 1.5 volt battery.
 
Hopefully this will give you some additional clues that will help you resolve this problem.
 
Best regards,
 
Steve
 
Steve Haas
Snoqualmie, WA
 
 
 
 
 
 
 




Re: Locos shutting down

Ray Di Ciacca
 

This dose not happen at the same time Each loco is the only one on the layout and it happens on two separate layouts. the first time it happened I sent the complete loco after many comments from Kelley to QSI he said he found it was a conductivity problem, spray the axels with fixit D5 and sent it back. this was fine for a week the it started again. I find it odd that all these locos with factory installed decoders relatively new units all have the same problem.
Ray

On Jul 31, 2021, at 6:39 PM, Steve Haas <Goatfisher2@...> wrote:

Ray Di Ciacca comments: 
 
“I have now come across three diesel locos that shut down for no apparent reason. They are running fine then stop dead. they are all Proto 2000. I have cleaned the wheels, but this is only a temporary fix.The stop then start up again but as soon as they move they shut down. Any suggestions.
Ray”
 
Ray,
 
Greg and Phil have both provide good suggestions giving you things to check out.  Here are a couple other thoughts to help you resolve this:
 
  1. You mention this happens with three engines; 
    1. are these in consist and on the track at the same time, 
    2. in consist, but only one on the track at the same time,
    3. not in consist and on the track at the same time, or
    4. not in consist and only one on the track?
  2. You mention start then stop, then start again.
    1. By far the most common cause of this behavior is having the engine(s)/consist addressed by more than one of your DCC cabs.  The engines are getting a “run at speed step X” from one cab, followed shortly thereafter by a “run at zero speed” from another cab .  When the command station checks with the first cab, it will again tell the engine(s)/consist to run at “speed step X”, followed by another conversation with the second cab that tells the command station to tell the consist to “run at zero speed”.  The result of all this is the locomotive behavior you see.
    2. A second possibility is an intermittent short in the wiring of one or more (or all) of the engines in question.  In this scenario the movement of the various components of the engine can cause a wire to move creating a short, causing either the booster or the circuit breaker to trip, causing the units to stop, only to resume movement when the booster/circuit breaker resets.  
                                                               i.      Pop the shell off the engine and watch closely as it moves
                                                             ii.      Check all the wires to make sure there are no strands of wire separated from the rest of that wire and inadvertently contacting something else, and
                                                           iii.      Check for any wearing on the sides of wires where the wire is exposed and could possibly come in contact with other wires and/or other components of the locomotive thereby causing a short. 
    1. A third possibility is one or more of the engines drawing too much current, again causing the booster and/or circuit breaker to trip to protect itself.  You also mentioned the three engines in question were P2K;
                                                               i.      Some early P2K engines (the E7’s come to mind, there _might_ have been others) had motors that drew excessive amperage.
                                                             ii.      P2K and other China built locomotives are notorious for lubes and grease that turn into solid “Peanut Butter” over time.  The best solution for this is to completely disassemble the mechanism, clean all parts thoroughly in Dawn and water, using a tooth brush (and other tools as necessary, then re-assemble the mechanism piece by piece, lubricating with _sparing_ amounts of the appropriate hobby lubes, oils and grease. Test as you go for fit and smooth, friction free performance.
                                                           iii.      While you have the motor out of the unit, check and make sure _it_ is performing well.  Motors used in P2K and other models have been known to lock up when left unused for extended periods of time.  Careful, sparing application of bearing lubes to the motor bearings will help here. If the motor seems to be locked up, apply a bit of gentle five finger torque to break it free.  Your motor should run smoothly with as little power as a 1.5 volt battery.
 
Hopefully this will give you some additional clues that will help you resolve this problem.
 
Best regards,
 
Steve
 
Steve Haas
Snoqualmie, WA
 
 
 
 
 
 
 



Re: I need some clarification, now more!.

 

Is there someone that has a BLI/QSI I1sa decapod with this QSI decoder? That is willing to help me? I notice that you can click on my name and send me an email offline, direct. You don't have to be an expert. I just want to compare notes on CV's. And which ones you think are better than others. Example: CV62 s/b 0 to cancel sound - or 1 to allow the loco to talk to you. But then, there's CV64, also set to 0. But what's the difference between "QSI voice control" and "Verbal CV inquiry"? I keep reading where you can use this to have the decoder talk to you - and also read where they say "do not do this"! Why? And what is the big deal? As long as I can read, I don't need them telling me. On the other hand, if it will tell me the speed at which the loco is running, it might be worth having on. ?? Come to think of it, you don't even have to have the PRR loco. I suspect any QSI with that particular decoder could help. I do note that in JMRI, CV7 is 0, so it's not specific.
Morgan F Bilbo, DCS50, UT4D, UR93, SPROGIIv4, JMRI 4.24, Pennsy modeler 1952


Re: Locos shutting down

Steve Haas
 

Ray Di Ciacca comments:

 

“I have now come across three diesel locos that shut down for no apparent reason. They are running fine then stop dead. they are all Proto 2000. I have cleaned the wheels, but this is only a temporary fix.The stop then start up again but as soon as they move they shut down. Any suggestions.
Ray”

 

Ray,

 

Greg and Phil have both provide good suggestions giving you things to check out.  Here are a couple other thoughts to help you resolve this:

 

  1. You mention this happens with three engines;
    1. are these in consist and on the track at the same time,
    2. in consist, but only one on the track at the same time,
    3. not in consist and on the track at the same time, or
    4. not in consist and only one on the track?
  2. You mention start then stop, then start again.
    1. By far the most common cause of this behavior is having the engine(s)/consist addressed by more than one of your DCC cabs.  The engines are getting a “run at speed step X” from one cab, followed shortly thereafter by a “run at zero speed” from another cab .  When the command station checks with the first cab, it will again tell the engine(s)/consist to run at “speed step X”, followed by another conversation with the second cab that tells the command station to tell the consist to “run at zero speed”.  The result of all this is the locomotive behavior you see.
    2. A second possibility is an intermittent short in the wiring of one or more (or all) of the engines in question.  In this scenario the movement of the various components of the engine can cause a wire to move creating a short, causing either the booster or the circuit breaker to trip, causing the units to stop, only to resume movement when the booster/circuit breaker resets. 

                                                               i.      Pop the shell off the engine and watch closely as it moves

                                                             ii.      Check all the wires to make sure there are no strands of wire separated from the rest of that wire and inadvertently contacting something else, and

                                                           iii.      Check for any wearing on the sides of wires where the wire is exposed and could possibly come in contact with other wires and/or other components of the locomotive thereby causing a short.

    1. A third possibility is one or more of the engines drawing too much current, again causing the booster and/or circuit breaker to trip to protect itself.  You also mentioned the three engines in question were P2K;

                                                               i.      Some early P2K engines (the E7’s come to mind, there _might_ have been others) had motors that drew excessive amperage.

                                                             ii.      P2K and other China built locomotives are notorious for lubes and grease that turn into solid “Peanut Butter” over time.  The best solution for this is to completely disassemble the mechanism, clean all parts thoroughly in Dawn and water, using a tooth brush (and other tools as necessary, then re-assemble the mechanism piece by piece, lubricating with _sparing_ amounts of the appropriate hobby lubes, oils and grease. Test as you go for fit and smooth, friction free performance.

                                                           iii.      While you have the motor out of the unit, check and make sure _it_ is performing well.  Motors used in P2K and other models have been known to lock up when left unused for extended periods of time.  Careful, sparing application of bearing lubes to the motor bearings will help here. If the motor seems to be locked up, apply a bit of gentle five finger torque to break it free.  Your motor should run smoothly with as little power as a 1.5 volt battery.

 

Hopefully this will give you some additional clues that will help you resolve this problem.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

Steve Haas

Snoqualmie, WA

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Re: Locos shutting down

Paul B/Indy
 

As Greg has already said, it is very unlikely that all three have failed at the same time.  Perhaps more info is needed.  Are they consisted?  If so, do any other locos also stop when they do (so, are they tripping a circuit breaker or not)?  

You say cleaning the wheels is a temporary fix.  How long?  P2K engines are VERY prone to wearing out their wheel plating, and thus the wheels get dirty very, very quickly.  It seems unlikely that this is your issue, but it is one thing to check.  Any ‘brass’ color showing thru the plating is a bad sign.

Paul B/Indy


On Jul 31, 2021, at 2:19 PM, Ray Di Ciacca <raydiciacca@...> wrote:

I have now come across three diesel locos that shut down for no apparent reason. They are running fine then stop dead. they are all Proto 2000. I have cleaned the wheels, but this is only a temporary fix.The stop then start up again but as soon as they move they shut down. Any suggestions.
Ray


Re: Locos shutting down

Greg Elmassian
 

The obvious answer is something that affects all 3. Could all 3 fail at the same time? Odds are no.

So first step, put a second loco on the track at the same time, and see if it stops at the same time... this will eliminate power problems, or an all stop.

Greg


Locos shutting down

Ray Di Ciacca
 

I have now come across three diesel locos that shut down for no apparent reason. They are running fine then stop dead. they are all Proto 2000. I have cleaned the wheels, but this is only a temporary fix.The stop then start up again but as soon as they move they shut down. Any suggestions.
Ray


Re: Proto 2000 Wiring Diagram

ffbrehm@...
 

The only one similar is the MP15 board but there are differences which make me leery of wiring it as there are no pads for a backup light on the board I have so the light would have to be wired from one of the connectors. I have looked at every QSI wiring diagram I can find and nothing is close.

Appreciate your reply,

Frank Brehm

 

From: QSIndustries@groups.io <QSIndustries@groups.io> On Behalf Of citaro_o530 via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2021 9:33 PM
To: QSIndustries@groups.io
Subject: Re: [QSIndustries] Proto 2000 Wiring Diagram

 

I uploaded a PDF in the files section showing some old decoder connections. See if any of the boards shown are similar to yours.


Re: Proto 2000 Wiring Diagram

citaro_o530
 

I uploaded a PDF in the files section showing some old decoder connections. See if any of the boards shown are similar to yours.


File /Quantum1Lighting_1_1_1.pdf uploaded #file-notice

QSIndustries@groups.io Notification <noreply@...>
 

The following files have been uploaded to the Files area of the QSIndustries@groups.io group.

By: citaro_o530 <citaro_o530@...>

Description:
Some examples of connecting lights to old boards.


Re: Proto 2000 Wiring Diagram

ffbrehm@...
 

Hi Al,

I have sent emails to QSI previously and also to Kelly and have received no replies so figured I would start here on this one.

Frank Brehm

 

From: QSIndustries@groups.io <QSIndustries@groups.io> On Behalf Of Al
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2021 4:10 PM
To: QSIndustries@groups.io
Subject: Re: [QSIndustries] Proto 2000 Wiring Diagram

 

Frank,
Suggest that you contact the company at: www.qsindustries.com 
for the decoder manual or wiring diagram for the decoder that you have.
Al Babinsky


Re: Proto 2000 Wiring Diagram

ffbrehm@...
 

Ed,

It is a OEM decoder similar to the Atlas MP15.

Photos in photo section under Proto SW9 Decoder.

Thanks,
Frank

-----Original Message-----
From: QSIndustries@groups.io <QSIndustries@groups.io> On Behalf Of Ed.Sauers
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2021 3:29 PM
To: QSIndustries@groups.io
Subject: Re: [QSIndustries] Proto 2000 Wiring Diagram

Frank,

what format is your decoder, A or U? can you post a picture of the decoder so we know what you have. If a U format how many wires on the non-MNRA end?

Ed Sauers


On 7/26/2021 5:39 PM, ffbrehm@gmail.com wrote:
New question. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the later QSI
decoders in the Proto 2000 SW9/1200, SW8/990? Even a photo would help
showing what wire connects to what.

Purchased this decoder used and I'm trying to install it in a new
model. I have nothing to compare it with.

Thanks,
Frank Brehm






Re: Q1 and Q2 Sound Sets

bigfourroad
 

Thank you Simon.  I appreciate you're taking the time to communicate and I will certainly access.

My main motive was to encourage the "public service" of archiving these things because it sometimes seems we are all carrying on in a time warp.

Best

Chris

J Chris Rooney CFA
Vanness Company
Tel: 904-280-1898
Fax: 904-280-1898
Email: Vannessco@...
Web: www.VannessCompany.com
On 7/26/2021 7:23 PM, Simon Brown via groups.io wrote:

Hi Chris,

I only have the following titan files for steam
4110-0v7-0-176.zip
3110-0v7-0-176.zip
these are for 2 and 4 cylinder steam
you can get them here if want them  - a long with a heap of other stuff  ;-)
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/160rqzGv9KTPXmoFxgmY1sVKH_Oo_MHnp?usp=sharing
If have any issues let me know


Re: Q1 and Q2 Sound Sets

Simon Brown
 

Hi Chris,

I only have the following titan files for steam
4110-0v7-0-176.zip
3110-0v7-0-176.zip
these are for 2 and 4 cylinder steam
you can get them here if want them  - a long with a heap of other stuff  ;-)
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/160rqzGv9KTPXmoFxgmY1sVKH_Oo_MHnp?usp=sharing
If have any issues let me know


Re: Proto 2000 Wiring Diagram

Al
 

Frank,
Suggest that you contact the company at: www.qsindustries.com 
for the decoder manual or wiring diagram for the decoder that you have.
Al Babinsky


Re: Proto 2000 Wiring Diagram

Ed.Sauers <dockside98@...>
 

Frank,

what format is your decoder, A or U? can you post a picture of the decoder so we know what you have. If a U format how many wires on the non-MNRA end?

Ed Sauers

On 7/26/2021 5:39 PM, ffbrehm@gmail.com wrote:
New question. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the later QSI decoders
in the Proto 2000 SW9/1200, SW8/990? Even a photo would help showing what
wire connects to what.

Purchased this decoder used and I'm trying to install it in a new model. I
have nothing to compare it with.

Thanks,
Frank Brehm





Proto 2000 Wiring Diagram

ffbrehm@...
 

New question. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the later QSI decoders
in the Proto 2000 SW9/1200, SW8/990? Even a photo would help showing what
wire connects to what.

Purchased this decoder used and I'm trying to install it in a new model. I
have nothing to compare it with.

Thanks,
Frank Brehm


Re: I need some clarification.

Dave Hastings
 

Yeah , been told that about the whistle, but that is how it sounded on a prototype engine from what I have learned. Maybe somebody in your area has the programmer.

Dave Hastings

On Monday, July 26, 2021, 10:08:50 AM EDT, PennsyNut <fan4pennsy@gmail.com> wrote:





Thanks Dave. That's what I thought. At one time, I had a question about my QSI/from 2010. And did get answers. When I said sound. I meant different ones, not volume. I have to assume (and that's dangerous) that when BLI brought out that PRR decapod, that they had the correct sounds installed. The banshee whistle I have trails off at the end. I'd don't like that. But was told that the only way to change that was to get the programmer. I don't think that's feasible for just one engine. If I had more QSI's, I'd consider the purchase. Like I said: To pay another $100 or so for a new decoder - just because I don't like QSI is just plain stupid. IMHO.  I too am retired, 82 yrs old, live in TX. No basements. So much like FL where we use whatever space we have available. Mine is a 12" by 24' shelf in a hallway in a mobile home. Running nothing but PRR steam. I do use a diesel or two for testing track, etc. But steam for operation. What I like to think of me as: is frugal. Spend the money wisely. Having spent that $400 plus for that QSI is not a waste, but to change out the decoder is a terrible waste of money. That's what I don't understand about so many people doing that. Another way of saying that is: How much better can a TCS, ESU, Tsunami 2, or any - be than the QSI. Just because the QSI is cantankerous, don't mean it isn't good. One just has to fiddle a bit with the CV's. That's what I did. It did take a bit of finagling on my part, but it turned out to be fun. Just as much fun as tuning BLI Paragon 2 and 3. No worse than I thought they would be. I kind of wish BLI had kept using QSI instead of buying the rights and creating their own. In that case, my 5 BLI's would have been QSI also and made the purchase of the programmer feasible. Again IMHO.
Morgan F Bilbo, DCS50, UT4D, UR93, SPROGIIv4, JMRI 4.20, Pennsy modeler 1952


Re: I need some clarification.

 

Thanks Dave. That's what I thought. At one time, I had a question about my QSI/from 2010. And did get answers. When I said sound. I meant different ones, not volume. I have to assume (and that's dangerous) that when BLI brought out that PRR decapod, that they had the correct sounds installed. The banshee whistle I have trails off at the end. I'd don't like that. But was told that the only way to change that was to get the programmer. I don't think that's feasible for just one engine. If I had more QSI's, I'd consider the purchase. Like I said: To pay another $100 or so for a new decoder - just because I don't like QSI is just plain stupid. IMHO.  I too am retired, 82 yrs old, live in TX. No basements. So much like FL where we use whatever space we have available. Mine is a 12" by 24' shelf in a hallway in a mobile home. Running nothing but PRR steam. I do use a diesel or two for testing track, etc. But steam for operation. What I like to think of me as: is frugal. Spend the money wisely. Having spent that $400 plus for that QSI is not a waste, but to change out the decoder is a terrible waste of money. That's what I don't understand about so many people doing that. Another way of saying that is: How much better can a TCS, ESU, Tsunami 2, or any - be than the QSI. Just because the QSI is cantankerous, don't mean it isn't good. One just has to fiddle a bit with the CV's. That's what I did. It did take a bit of finagling on my part, but it turned out to be fun. Just as much fun as tuning BLI Paragon 2 and 3. No worse than I thought they would be. I kind of wish BLI had kept using QSI instead of buying the rights and creating their own. In that case, my 5 BLI's would have been QSI also and made the purchase of the programmer feasible. Again IMHO.
Morgan F Bilbo, DCS50, UT4D, UR93, SPROGIIv4, JMRI 4.20, Pennsy modeler 1952

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