Up-to-date QCX+ tips as of July 25, 2020 #qcx+ #enclosure #manual #case


 

While waiting for my QCX+ to arrive, I am collecting a list of items to check.

1. R46 is indeed 10K
2. JP7 trace needs to be cut (does not effect normal operation)
3. When soldering the connectors on the back of the PCB,  use the back panel as an alignment template for a nice fit
4. Detailed troubleshooting guide is found in QCX manual

Anything else for the list?
--
73, Bernie, VE3FWF
(most typos in this message have been generated by highly sophisticated auto-correction software)


Dean Smith
 

Drilling out plastic M3 nuts used as spacers to assist lcd display mounting! Think this is correct, some one correct me if I haven't qujte got it..defo one for the list.. .


N3MNT
 

Adding short pieces of wire to the volume control at a 90 angle vs bending the tabs for soldering.  prevents damaging the control


Mike Besemer - WM4B <mwbesemer@...>
 

I found them very hard to drill; hard to hold on to even in a socket.

 

Soldering iron worked well however.

 

Mike

WM4B

 

From: QRPLabs@groups.io [mailto:QRPLabs@groups.io] On Behalf Of Dean Smith
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2020 3:58 PM
To: QRPLabs@groups.io
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] Up-to-date QCX+ tips as of July 25, 2020 #qcx+ #case #enclosure #manual

 

Drilling out plastic M3 nuts used as spacers to assist lcd display mounting! Think this is correct, some one correct me if I haven't qujte got it..defo one for the list.. .


N3MNT
 

I slid a piece of 0.5m PETG ( clear plastic sheet)  98mm x  130mm  under the board just as a safety measure to prevent a high solder joint or lead trim from shorting to the case.  I used female headers to make short interconnect cables to connect GPS and ISP  between the rear panel and the board.  This makes removing the board for any work easier. 


Sheldon Hartling
 

* Leave the washer and nut on the rotary encoder.  I took mine off thinking they might be used to secure the control to the front panel and then realized the shaft wasn’t long enough.  Then I worried about the mechanical stability of the encoder without the nut/washer and took the (difficult) front-panel assembly apart again to put them back. :-)

* IC11 Voltage Regulator is not in the documentation parts list.

* Might be helpful to cut/trim a corner off the top nut under the volume control with wire-cutters to allow the control to sit flush to the board.  I ended up using a blade knife to cut it off after installation to take stress off the control.  (Pictures posted to QRP-LABS builders Facebook group.

* Stereo jack connectors don’t quite align with the holes in the PCB.  May take some torquing to get them straight.  Best to lightly tack two pins with a little solder to hold them while you bend them into place applying a little heat as required.  Need enough force to straighten them out but not enough to break them. :-) 

73, Sheldon VE1GPY


m0bmn
 

Hi Bernie
Please don't try and cut the 'link' for JP7,  the only time you would cut any of the links is for fault finding. JP7  doesn't have a link to cut , both parts of JP7 are on the same copper pad so  it would be difficult to cut , Hans has posted a work around IF (and its a BIG IF)  you need to fault find at that point. its a waste of effort to try and just make the cuts for the sake of it and you need to join the links again  in order for the radio to work. it will be NO advantage if you make the cuts and  more likely cause more problems for you.
just put the effort into taking  care with the build and all will be fine.
Have fun  and be assured it a great radio when its finished.
73 Paul M0BMN


N3MNT
 

On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 07:48 PM, m0bmn wrote:
Hi Bernie
Please don't try and cut the 'link' for JP7,  the only time you would cut any of the links is for fault finding. JP7  doesn't have a link to cut , both parts of JP7 are on the same copper pad so  it would be difficult to cut , Hans has posted a work around IF (and its a BIG IF)  you need to fault find at that point. its a waste of effort to try and just make the cuts for the sake of it and you need to join the links again  in order for the radio to work. it will be NO advantage if you make the cuts and  more likely cause more problems for you.
just put the effort into taking  care with the build and all will be fine.
Have fun  and be assured it a great radio when its finished.
73 Paul M0BMN
I have build two QCX+ within the last few weeks.  I built per the instructions and DID NOT cut any traces.  Both setup, attained expected power out and worked great without any circuit modifications. 


N3MNT
 

Tips.  When installing the right angled headers on the main board plug in the female connectors temporarily to insure correct alignment.


Evan Hand
 

Tip:  When soldering in the 3.5mm jacks, first insert all of the jacks in without soldering, attache the rear end plate, make sure that all jacks are flush on the board, and use the BNC connector with the nut to hold in place.  Then solder all of the pins for the jacks.  This way you know that the holes will match up when you assemble the case.  This of course assumes that you purchased the optional case.

Tip: TCXO leads can be bent over to hold in place from the top side of the TXCO until soldered in place.  Trim any excess wire that was bent over.  


Bruce K1FFX
 

I'm part way through my 40m QCX+ build.  Have any additional construction hints been collected
in the past few weeks?  I'm wondering if there is an "official" construction hints list.

The build is going very well ... just taking it slowly ... and will take a close look at @Sheldon's post
on FB when I get to the front panel.

- Bruce K1FFX


 

Thank you all  for keeping the information coming.

 I will tidy up this thread and repost everything in one message on August 19, 2020

Any last minute updates?
--
73, Bernie, VE3FWF
(most typos in this message have been generated by highly sophisticated auto-correction software)


Sheldon Hartling
 

Hi Bernie,
I added an album to the Photos section called "QCX+ Front Panel Assembly" with the information/photos I shared a few days ago with the Facebook QRP-LABS Builders Group.  I figured it was probably better to post the pictures than to send them in-line in a message.  

"Building my second QCX+, I decided to build the front-panel first and to take advantage of some of the things I learned during my first build. This one went much smoother. See captions on photos."

73,
Sheldon VE1GPY


Gary Bernard
 

Sheldon, very helpful, thank you.
Gary W0CKI


-----Original Message-----
From: Sheldon Hartling <ve1gpy@...>
To: QRPLabs@groups.io
Sent: Wed, Aug 19, 2020 3:56 pm
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] Up-to-date QCX+ tips as of July 25, 2020 #qcx+ #case #enclosure #manual

Hi Bernie,
I added an album to the Photos section called "QCX+ Front Panel Assembly" with the information/photos I shared a few days ago with the Facebook QRP-LABS Builders Group.  I figured it was probably better to post the pictures than to send them in-line in a message.  

"Building my second QCX+, I decided to build the front-panel first and to take advantage of some of the things I learned during my first build. This one went much smoother. See captions on photos."

73,
Sheldon VE1GPY


The Crunchbird
 

For what it's worth. . The only tip I can share is for the winding of T1. Whittle down a thin piece of wooden dowel to a pointed end with the point being about three inches long so that the toroid slides over it. Next cut the wood above where the toroid fits so that there is a gap between it and the wood for about 45 degrees of the circle and vertically clamp the dowel in a small vice. This permits an easy winding of T1. The gap allows the wire to be threaded through the toroid even when it is in a press fixed position on the dowel. Trying to wind T1 without fixing it to something is extremely difficult to accomplish. 

On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 5:56 PM Sheldon Hartling <ve1gpy@...> wrote:
Hi Bernie,
I added an album to the Photos section called "QCX+ Front Panel Assembly" with the information/photos I shared a few days ago with the Facebook QRP-LABS Builders Group.  I figured it was probably better to post the pictures than to send them in-line in a message.  

"Building my second QCX+, I decided to build the front-panel first and to take advantage of some of the things I learned during my first build. This one went much smoother. See captions on photos."

73,
Sheldon VE1GPY


Bob Ballard
 

Awesome job Sheldon!  Thank you, thank you, thank you!

 

This will also help me do a much smoother job assembling my 20M QCX+ than I did on my 40M QCX+.

 

73,

Bob – KG5SQJ

 

From: QRPLabs@groups.io <QRPLabs@groups.io> On Behalf Of Sheldon Hartling
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2020 4:57 PM
To: QRPLabs@groups.io
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] Up-to-date QCX+ tips as of July 25, 2020 #qcx+ #case #enclosure #manual

 

Hi Bernie,
I added an album to the Photos section called "QCX+ Front Panel Assembly" with the information/photos I shared a few days ago with the Facebook QRP-LABS Builders Group.  I figured it was probably better to post the pictures than to send them in-line in a message.  

"Building my second QCX+, I decided to build the front-panel first and to take advantage of some of the things I learned during my first build. This one went much smoother. See captions on photos."


73,
Sheldon VE1GPY


Chuck ke9uw
 

Chopsticks from a Chinese restaurant work well as a source of wood dowels. 


Michael - wb6csh
 

I did NOT drill out any of the M3 nylon nuts to mount the LCD to the PCB. I'm running into a problem on the potentiometer (R1) side of the PCB; The M3 nut cannot rotate since it is forced up against the rear of R1, when it should be free to tighten up and hold the PCB and the LCD together. Any solutions from anybody?


Hans Summers
 

Violence is the solution. 

Normally I try not to incite violence. But in this case, you need to use FORCE on those screws. Get a good large philips screwdriver with a nice big handle... apply torque... everything will comply... 

73 Hans G0UPL

On Tue, Oct 12, 2021 at 6:52 AM Michael - wb6csh via groups.io <wb6csh7=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I did NOT drill out any of the M3 nylon nuts to mount the LCD to the PCB. I'm running into a problem on the potentiometer (R1) side of the PCB; The M3 nut cannot rotate since it is forced up against the rear of R1, when it should be free to tighten up and hold the PCB and the LCD together. Any solutions from anybody?


Sheldon Hartling