Topics

Change Request.


Shirley Dulcey KE1L
 

Nearly all black and white printers already do grayscale for color files. The problem is that the gray values for the colors may be indistinguishable; for example, some of the resistor color codes likely have the same or nearly the same gray value. Red text, however, should not look identical to black text.

These days I do my building with the manual displayed on a monitor that is on an arm above my building desk. I can make everything nice and large and easy to read that way, and don't have to find room on the bench for paper. But it does have the downside of not being able to check off the steps!


On Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 1:00 PM Nigel <zs6rn@...> wrote:
Greetings Razvan from sunny South Africa :-) 

When printing a colour document on a mono (B/W) printer there should be a printer setting that permits colour to be represented by grey scale. Perhaps the setting on your device is print only black and white?

Just saying in case will help.

73 de Nigel ZS6RN ex G8DEV l-o-n-g time ago! 


Nigel
 

Greetings Razvan from sunny South Africa :-) 

When printing a colour document on a mono (B/W) printer there should be a printer setting that permits colour to be represented by grey scale. Perhaps the setting on your device is print only black and white?

Just saying in case will help.

73 de Nigel ZS6RN ex G8DEV l-o-n-g time ago! 


namerati@...
 

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 04:36:16PM -0700, @DL2ARL wrote:
The weird thing about the new qcx+ manual compared to the old, to ALL old qrp-labs manuals, is the fact, that, printed B&W, there is no way to distinguish between the B&W correspondent "colour" (or shade of gray) of what was supposed to be RED (meaning THE component the story is about on the actual page) and the rest of the gray shaded components on the board that were bespoken somewhen ahead or the ones that will be named hereafter.

This way, for me, I have the choice between the devil and beelzebub. Either do I take it the hard way and identify the components by myself using the schematics just as I would do with a kit not sporting  to a HeathKitLevel manual, or ...

well, I must confess, I am so penny wise, I do not own a PC in my "lab" where the soldering iron smokes. The normal way would probably be to solder the components in front of some fancy tablet I can wipe with my fingers across. But I have none, not in my soldering shack. This remains my own, self determined miserly condition.
I noticed this as well. Solution for me was to use an old laptop that fortunately had a very large screen, so I could zoom in to the manual.

But printed paper is always nicer!


DL2ARL
 

Yess! it is senseless, but I do this since I came from school and I still make a living from it: doing dumb *CHANGE REQUESTS nobody cares about (I am qrl wise in a testing environment).

It is senseless, but with the disclaimer: "to whom it might concern" this might have an impact of some kind.

With the otherwise splendid qcx+ manual, qrp-labs does S P O I L it's customers by writing the assembly instructs  as such, as the kit-builders can smoothly switch their brains off and solder on, page for page, component for component w/o the need of a single neuronal balance of their own: soldering by numbers. If there is one weird resistor, one single one, there's a special page for it, showing you not only where but even how to plant it and from which side to solder it down w/o burning your fingers.

So far so good. Very good indeed!

But for me, qrp is a state of the mind and the mind reaches deep into my wallet. I do not have a color printer, do not envy one and I would probably catch some avaricious cough if I would have to go to a copy shop and let the  manual get printed there. No kidding, you can call me names, but I stay put: it's black&white for me and if you want me to be mean, I take B&W  in two separate glasses, with ice, stirred please, no shake... and an olive. Or was that a vermouth?: who cares: I was speaking about the qcx+ RTFmanual print-out.

So far so good: it stays personal.

The weird thing about the new qcx+ manual compared to the old, to ALL old qrp-labs manuals, is the fact, that, printed B&W, there is no way to distinguish between the B&W correspondent "colour" (or shade of gray) of what was supposed to be RED (meaning THE component the story is about on the actual page) and the rest of the gray shaded components on the board that were bespoken somewhen ahead or the ones that will be named hereafter.

This way, for me, I have the choice between the devil and beelzebub. Either do I take it the hard way and identify the components by myself using the schematics just as I would do with a kit not sporting  to a HeathKitLevel manual, or ...

well, I must confess, I am so penny wise, I do not own a PC in my "lab" where the soldering iron smokes. The normal way would probably be to solder the components in front of some fancy tablet I can wipe with my fingers across. But I have none, not in my soldering shack. This remains my own, self determined miserly condition.

In this final scenario, having no color display whatever in the soldering shack does lead to a loooong session spent alongside of the PC the computer room upstairs (a comfort issue)  with a red pencil in my hand drawing circles around the components that should be red on the printout although they are as gray as can be, compared to those that should be gray for true.

That's my seamless, needlessly senseless story: to whom it might concern. I'm half'way down with the red pencil trough the B&W print-out I sip out of two separate glasses with ice please, stirred, no shake, so that it's of no concern for me if it will concern some other body. With an olive please; or was that for a vermouth?

The manual is good as it is. It is almost too perfect: it is ME that I have a problem with my avariciously determined color qrp blindness. It remains a state of the mind. And for some old-fashioned reason of mine, I love, I persist in liking working after paper print-outs, not after digital displays. The ones you can draw nasty things upon; with a pencil and colofonium fat fingers. Try this with a mouse...!"§$%&//()=?\?\

Yours friendly, Razvan DL2ARL.


Mike Besemer - WM4B
 

One way to use it to label a front panel would be to make a vinyl covering for the entire panel, cutting out the labels and holes for controls.”

 

That was my method, but I only cut out the lettering for the labels.  The holes were formed with the tip of a hot soldering iron.

 

Mike

WM4B

 

From: QRPLabs@groups.io [mailto:QRPLabs@groups.io] On Behalf Of Shirley Dulcey KE1L
Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2020 7:08 PM
To: QRPLabs@groups.io
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] Change Request.

 

It's a computer-controlled cutting device. The fancy model will cut a large variety of soft materials, including basswood and leather. Not metal, though.

 

One way to use it to label a front panel would be to make a vinyl covering for the entire panel, cutting out the labels and holes for controls.

 

It's also possible to put in a marker rather than a cutting tool. It might be possible to label a front panel by using the market to write on it. I make no promises about how well or badly that would work; the markers might not be designed to stick well to front panel materials.

 

On Tue, Jul 7, 2020 at 6:58 PM N3MNT <bob@...> wrote:

It is a hobby vinyl cutter.


Shirley Dulcey KE1L
 

It's a computer-controlled cutting device. The fancy model will cut a large variety of soft materials, including basswood and leather. Not metal, though.

One way to use it to label a front panel would be to make a vinyl covering for the entire panel, cutting out the labels and holes for controls.

It's also possible to put in a marker rather than a cutting tool. It might be possible to label a front panel by using the market to write on it. I make no promises about how well or badly that would work; the markers might not be designed to stick well to front panel materials.

On Tue, Jul 7, 2020 at 6:58 PM N3MNT <bob@...> wrote:
It is a hobby vinyl cutter.


Mike Besemer - WM4B
 

Hi Ted,

 

No… a Cricut machine is a toy for (mostly) the XYLs.  It cuts paper, vinyl, etc. and produces some really intricate patterns.  I still need to re-cut my the overlay for my front panel… the XYL has been using (her) toy and won’t let me in!

 

73,

 

Mike

WM4B

 

From: QRPLabs@groups.io [mailto:QRPLabs@groups.io] On Behalf Of Ted 2E0THH
Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2020 6:45 PM
To: QRPLabs@groups.io
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] Change Request.

 

Mike
I've been needing to get around to mine for 2 years - what on earth is a cricut machine and will it work on black anodised aluminium?
73s Ted
2E0THH


N3MNT
 

It is a hobby vinyl cutter.


Ted 2E0THH
 

Mike
I've been needing to get around to mine for 2 years - what on earth is a cricut machine and will it work on black anodised aluminium?
73s Ted
2E0THH


Mike Besemer - WM4B
 

I did the front and back panel of one of my clocks with my XYL’s Cricut machine.  (Attached.)

 

I used too large a font for the switch labels on the front; I’m redoing it right now.

 

Mike

WM4B

 

From: QRPLabs@groups.io [mailto:QRPLabs@groups.io] On Behalf Of Don VE3IDS
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 6:14 PM
To: QRPLabs@groups.io
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] Change Request.

 

I bought a label maker for $20 that came with a roll of label tape. It has lots of different fonts and borders and sizes and can do double line and vertical mode. I bought a black on clear tape roll for it as well. The supplied one is black type on white. The tape is vinyl and wears well. It works great. 

 

73 Don ve3ids

 

On Mon., Jul. 6, 2020, 4:32 p.m. Bill Cromwell, <wrcromwell@...> wrote:

Hi,

That might help but you could always resort to a label making printer, a
pice of Dyno tape or even use a sharpie to mark it. Use transparent
scotch tape over a printed paper label. How many people are going to be
looking at the back?

73,

Bill  KU8H

bark less - wag more

On 7/6/20 4:03 PM, N3MNT wrote:
> On the surface this may seem like a senseless request, but as i get more
> and more QRP-Labs kits with QRP-Labs enclosures, I find it needed to add
> label for the power requirements so I don't accidentally supply an
> incorrect voltage.  If any changes are made to back panels in the
> future, would it be possible to add the voltage for the power
> connector.  I am so impressed by this kit that I hate  to ask for any
> changes, but this should be an easy one if any future changes are made.
>



Don VE3IDS
 

I bought a label maker for $20 that came with a roll of label tape. It has lots of different fonts and borders and sizes and can do double line and vertical mode. I bought a black on clear tape roll for it as well. The supplied one is black type on white. The tape is vinyl and wears well. It works great. 

73 Don ve3ids

On Mon., Jul. 6, 2020, 4:32 p.m. Bill Cromwell, <wrcromwell@...> wrote:
Hi,

That might help but you could always resort to a label making printer, a
pice of Dyno tape or even use a sharpie to mark it. Use transparent
scotch tape over a printed paper label. How many people are going to be
looking at the back?

73,

Bill  KU8H

bark less - wag more

On 7/6/20 4:03 PM, N3MNT wrote:
> On the surface this may seem like a senseless request, but as i get more
> and more QRP-Labs kits with QRP-Labs enclosures, I find it needed to add
> label for the power requirements so I don't accidentally supply an
> incorrect voltage.  If any changes are made to back panels in the
> future, would it be possible to add the voltage for the power
> connector.  I am so impressed by this kit that I hate  to ask for any
> changes, but this should be an easy one if any future changes are made.
>




Bill Cromwell
 

Hi,

That might help but you could always resort to a label making printer, a pice of Dyno tape or even use a sharpie to mark it. Use transparent scotch tape over a printed paper label. How many people are going to be looking at the back?

73,

Bill KU8H

bark less - wag more

On 7/6/20 4:03 PM, N3MNT wrote:
On the surface this may seem like a senseless request, but as i get more and more QRP-Labs kits with QRP-Labs enclosures, I find it needed to add label for the power requirements so I don't accidentally supply an incorrect voltage.  If any changes are made to back panels in the future, would it be possible to add the voltage for the power connector.  I am so impressed by this kit that I hate  to ask for any changes, but this should be an easy one if any future changes are made.


N3MNT
 

On the surface this may seem like a senseless request, but as i get more and more QRP-Labs kits with QRP-Labs enclosures, I find it needed to add label for the power requirements so I don't accidentally supply an incorrect voltage.  If any changes are made to back panels in the future, would it be possible to add the voltage for the power connector.  I am so impressed by this kit that I hate  to ask for any changes, but this should be an easy one if any future changes are made.