#qcx #problem #qcx #problem
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Jordon Posey
Hello everyone. I just finished putting together my 20m QCX kit. However, there is nothing at all on the display. I have adjusted contrast and used a multimeter to confirm 13v going to the board. I'm just stumped. I've attached several pictures of the board.
I'm based in the US and will gladly pay postage and labor if somebody wants to take a crack at it. 73 KN4SKY Jordon
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Roger Hill
First of all I think you should snip off all the tails of the components on the underside of the board. Far too much opportunity for shorts as they stand.
Roger
On 25 Oct 2019, at 13:10, jordonposey@... wrote: Hello everyone. I just finished putting together my 20m QCX kit. However, there is nothing at all on the display. I have adjusted contrast and used a multimeter to confirm 13v going to the board. I'm just stumped. I've attached several pictures of the board.
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Roy Appleton
😱
On Fri, Oct 25, 2019, 7:10 AM <jordonposey@...> wrote: Hello everyone. I just finished putting together my 20m QCX kit. However, there is nothing at all on the display. I have adjusted contrast and used a multimeter to confirm 13v going to the board. I'm just stumped. I've attached several pictures of the board.
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Alan de G1FXB
In addition,
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the lcd header doesn't appear to be soldered? Alan
On 25/10/2019 13:14, Roger Hill wrote:
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There appears to be many bad solder connections. All the ones with the round dot in the center need to be redone. All the excess leads need to be trimmed. Start at 5V regulator and measure voltage on all 3 pins
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Jim Mcilroy
Hi
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Maybe this is not the case but one of your photos shows the LCD header in the female socket. Did you solder the LCD to those pins? As far as I recall when I built my QCX40 there is a note in the assembly manual about that work and the separation distance between the male and female LCD connections. It would be worth reading that. 73 Jim
On 25 Oct 2019, at 13:23, Roy Appleton <twelveoclockhigh@...> wrote:
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R. Tyson
I agree with Chopper. Looking at the photos I reckon it would be worth while reworking all the solder joints. I find a 20* magnification jewellers loupe ideal for checking each joint as I finish soldering it. They are available very cheaply off Ebay. Each solder joint should enclose the pin or lead as well as the pad on the board and should look nice and shiny. Then cut the leads off as close to the solder as you can.
Hopefully when the soldering is done correctly the rig will spring to life. Good luck, Reg     G4NFR
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abeckett@...
If you are not in a hurry, and I can have it for a couple of weeks, I'll will work it over for you. I see a lot of rework to be done. Let me know and send it and any left over components to my QRZ.com address. No charge and no promises if IC components or board is damaged. DE KL1HC
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Gary Bernard
T1 doesn’t look right though I can’t count the turns accurately.  Also, what I can see of the other toroids I’d check them.
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Gary W0CKI
On Oct 25, 2019, at 6:10 AM, jordonposey@... wrote:
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R. Tyson
Just enlarged your photos..... some of the leads that haven't been cut off look as though they are shorting out on other leads or pads on the board.
Reg   G4NFR
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Jordon Posey
I haven't soldered the LCD yet. I was worried that the chip wasn't seated properly and I didn't want to desolder to get to it. Side note, how do my torids look? First time winding them. 73
On Fri, Oct 25, 2019, 9:43 AM Jim Mcilroy via Groups.Io <gts53=btinternet.com@groups.io> wrote:
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You solder the LCD to header pins which plug into a socket on the PCB. This means you can unplug the LCD any time, even while the QCX is operating. Ross AC3DN
On Fri, 25 Oct 2562 at 21:00 Jordon Posey <jordonposey@...> wrote:
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Jim Mcilroy
Hi
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One step at a time. Let’s get the LCD and processor going. Suggest you solder that LCD to its header pins. To do that rest it on its header pins unplugged from the QCX Gently align the header sets keeping hold of the LCD with its header. Screw the LCD to the nylon standoffs. The objective is for the LCD to be flush on the standoffs, as there is a documented gap between the pins. When all looks OK solder the LCD Check around the underneath of the main PCB for bad joints and cut off any long wires. Leave the Toroid for now. Apply power and see if your LCD gets going. If so we can talk Toroid later. 73 Jim
On 25 Oct 2019, at 14:59, Jordon Posey <jordonposey@...> wrote:
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Jordon Posey
Wow, I'm stupid. I fisished putting it together last night and I rushed it. It never even occurred to me. I'll work on it in a few days and report back.
On Fri, Oct 25, 2019, 10:26 AM Ross Wilson <rzzzwilson@...> wrote:
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vajra guru
On Friday, October 25, 2019, Jordon Posey <jordonposey@...> wrote:
Nope, you're learning! And you're helping people like me who haven't gotten up the courage to start construction yet... Will be following your progress with interest...  Â
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Roger Hill
You never stop learning...but the first lesson is ALWAYS read the manual and follow its guidance. Someone spent many hours putting the manual together to help you do a good job of building the kit.
And when you get stuck, don't guess...ask. There are plenty of people on this list willing and able to help. There are no stupid questions.
Roger
G3YTN
On 25 Oct 2019, at 17:25, vajra guru <vajraguru99@...> wrote:
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Gregg Myers
One of the really great things about the QCX manual is there are a lot of really great color pictures in it. Try and make your kit looks as close to the pictures you see in the manual. I would redo all your toroids to at least be reasonable close to the manual pictures (as an example). Take your time, and be as neat about it as you can. Good luck! Gregg W7GRM
On Fri, Oct 25, 2019, 10:45 AM Roger Hill <rhill@...> wrote:
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