Date   
Re: USB soundcard w/stereo mic #rcvr

Mike Berg
 

On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 02:47 PM, Bill Pellerin wrote:
UGREEN USB Audio Adapter External Stereo Sound Card
If you read the fine print..."Please kindly note it only supports mono microphone TRS..."
Thanks for trying.
Mike

Re: USB soundcard w/stereo mic #rcvr

David
 

I'm not sure if your description is referring to this one :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132163916137

but I use these and, while the 'mic' input uses a stereo jack, it is mono input. Which I don't think it would help the OP.

Dave

G3WUN

On 28/08/2019 20:47, Bill Pellerin wrote:
Hi Mike;

I bought this from Amazon... it's effectively a USB Soundcard for $10.

UGREEN USB Audio Adapter External Stereo Sound Card with 3.5mm Headphone and Microphone Jack for Windows, Mac, Linux, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS4 (Black)


I have not used it for ham radio, but it should work. I got so I could send audio to the computer to be digitized.

73

Bill Pellerin, KE5XV
billpellerin@...


On Wednesday, August 28, 2019, 01:33:25 PM CDT, Mike Berg <mikeberg@...> wrote:


I'm building the Tayloe receiver kit and I doubt my motherboard sound systems have stereo mic inputs.

I'm pretty sure my Signalink USB is mono in as well.

Can someone recommend a cheap USB sound card that will fill the bill and let me decode I Q signals?
73
Mike N0QBH

Re: USB soundcard w/stereo mic #rcvr

Bill Pellerin
 

Hi Mike;

I bought this from Amazon... it's effectively a USB Soundcard for $10.

UGREEN USB Audio Adapter External Stereo Sound Card with 3.5mm Headphone and Microphone Jack for Windows, Mac, Linux, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS4 (Black)


I have not used it for ham radio, but it should work. I got so I could send audio to the computer to be digitized.

73

Bill Pellerin, KE5XV
billpellerin@...


On Wednesday, August 28, 2019, 01:33:25 PM CDT, Mike Berg <mikeberg@...> wrote:


I'm building the Tayloe receiver kit and I doubt my motherboard sound systems have stereo mic inputs.

I'm pretty sure my Signalink USB is mono in as well.

Can someone recommend a cheap USB sound card that will fill the bill and let me decode I Q signals?
73
Mike N0QBH

Re: OT Electrolytic caps

Lawrence
 

So you need 4 capacitors.  Two in series will give you 225uF @ 50v then put another series pair in parallel with the first and you get back to 450uF @ 50v.

  +——||——||——+
——+          +—— 
  +——||——||——+

Probably faster and simpler to go down to you local electronics supply if you can and get a 450uF @ 35v or greater capacitor.  A A larger voltage rating is not importance for most things, just makes the capacitor bigger and probably slightly more reliable.

If this is in the power supply the actual capacitance may not be very critical and anything with the right voltage rating in the ball park near 450uF would be ok.

73,
Lawrence

On Aug 28, 2019, at 12:26, James Daldry W4JED <jim@...> wrote:

Mike

Only if you like loud noises. Paralleling caps gives you the sum of the values, at the voltage rating of the lowest voltage cap. Hooking them in series, if exactly the same devices, gives you half the capacitance at double the voltage. If they're not the same number of microfarads, then the size is the reciprocal of the sum of the reciprocals, and the voltage rating will be higher than either one, but will be tricky to figure out, depending on ripple current.

Jim W4JED

On 8/27/19 3:12 PM, MIKE WILLMAN wrote:

I am repairing a flickering screen on a Vizio TV. it calls for 470uf 35v caps. Well wouldn't  You know They sent 25v caps. Can I Parallel 2 470uf 25v and will this give me 470uf 50v? Thank You

 

Re: OT Electrolytic caps

James Daldry W4JED
 

Mike

Only if you like loud noises. Paralleling caps gives you the sum of the values, at the voltage rating of the lowest voltage cap. Hooking them in series, if exactly the same devices, gives you half the capacitance at double the voltage. If they're not the same number of microfarads, then the size is the reciprocal of the sum of the reciprocals, and the voltage rating will be higher than either one, but will be tricky to figure out, depending on ripple current.

Jim W4JED

On 8/27/19 3:12 PM, MIKE WILLMAN wrote:

I am repairing a flickering screen on a Vizio TV. it calls for 470uf 35v caps. Well wouldn't  You know They sent 25v caps. Can I Parallel 2 470uf 25v and will this give me 470uf 50v? Thank You

 

Re: QCX 3 Trimmers can't find minimums

James Daldry W4JED
 

Hi, Arv

You just have to remember that a "270" isn't a "270". Of course, that also goes for all sizes of mica, mylar, ceramic, etc imported capacitors. Don't mix the American ones with the Japanese ones.

Jim W4JED

On 8/27/19 2:59 PM, Arv Evans wrote:
In the "bad-old-days" we had to contend with brown-body resistors (brown is one of the color code bands).
Then it was gray resistors (gray is a color code band).  Seems that most of the popular colors are already
taken, so what color should resistor bodies actually be?   Oh, yes we do have an easy fix...just use SMT
components which have the value printed on each component.  Us old timers have to use a 10X magnifier,
but that seems a small price to pay for knowing exactly what the value might be.

8-)

Arv  K7HKL
_._

On Tue, Aug 27, 2019 at 12:47 PM James Daldry W4JED <jim@...> wrote:

Hi, Don

I ran into blue body resistors when repairing Pioneer CD/tape/FM integrated systems in the '90's. One of the interesting design details was a circuit that detected excessive output current and would turn on - saturate - all the output transistors at once, blowing the AC fuse. Guess what - as designed, it would blow out all the output devices, then blow the fuse. So - when you repaired one of the "cube" amps (ask any stereo tech about "cube amps") you had to change a bunch of resistors in the sense circuit to recalibrate it. Some of the replacement resistors had blue bodies. I've also run into blue body resistors in the "600 resistors for $2" packages on Ebay. When I use them I don't even try to read them - I use an ohmmeter.

Jim

On 8/27/19 11:55 AM, Don DeGregori wrote:
You never know. Maybe the blue LED I've seen has skewed my color perception of blue body resistors. But I have a blue body Elantra car. No problem seeing the colors of the day.

Anyway Ron WA7GIL, the fixer of 13 boards, has my board. He knows all about blue body resistors and hates it too!

Don

USB soundcard w/stereo mic #rcvr

Mike Berg
 

I'm building the Tayloe receiver kit and I doubt my motherboard sound systems have stereo mic inputs.

I'm pretty sure my Signalink USB is mono in as well.

Can someone recommend a cheap USB sound card that will fill the bill and let me decode I Q signals?
73
Mike N0QBH

Re: ProgRock won't program correctly

geoff M0ORE
 

OK, just realised what the sentence means. My error.

On 28/08/2019 13:55, geoff M0ORE via Groups.Io wrote:

Why do you think you have a problem with the de-bouncing when no other builder ( including me ) have not had a problem?

If the instructions say you should see four flashes after each button press , then you will see four flashes. If you don't, then you have a problem. Software does not behave intermittently.

I don't understand your sequence quote" The sequence: set wwitch to 0000 Power off.  Power on. 0000 0001 0000 1111 Power off Power on." What is the aim of this sequence?


On 28/08/2019 13:23, Floyd Hollister wrote:
Hexadecimal:  The switch I am using produces binary  as follows:  0000  0001 0010 0011 0100 0101 0110 0111 1000 1001 1010 1011 1100 1101 1110 1111. where 1 is a closure and 0 is open circuit.  I am using the 4 bits just as they would be generated by the 4-bit slide switch.  I use 1111 as  "enter"  The problem did not change with or without the use of the thumb-wheel switch.

Factory reset: this works with 010 enter.  The sequence: set wwitch to 0000 Power off.  Power on. 0000 0001 0000 1111 Power off Power on.  Output is 10 MHz, but no change in the problem of setting the frequency to my desired 151700000 MHz.  

Does any one know about the four flashes after each numerical input? What if instead of four flashes, the LED only stays red as long as the button is pushed. Should I just ignore this and keep reentering the number until I get four flashes?

I am trying to enter numbers into register 04  the sequence I am using for 151700000 Hz is set switch to 0000 power off power on (get four flashes) 04151700000 enter (1111). 
The result is unpredictable but once in a while will produce the desired frequency but not repeatedly  and the same with either the 4-bit slide switch or the thumb-wheel switch.  The thumb-wheel switch is somewhat of a distraction and I am only using it because I felt I was literally wearing out the 4-bit switch. (which I also replaced before involving the thumb-wheel switch).

I have an Arduino now so I will try entering the frequency using it.

I will report back results when this is done!

 I still think the root of the problem is debouncing. (Yes I have grounded the 1pps pin).

Thanks for your patience. 

 

Re: 30 Meter QCX WWV

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

For either case the voice is heard but its notably muffled as the filter has fairly steep skirts.
Its three sections of low pass and one section of high pass (Hipermite uses same).
Its not brick wall like some DSP as a result its usually more pleasant to listen to.

Tthe 30M and 20M QCX have the same low pass and high pass filters in the audio chain
so 10mhz will sound about the same.  The only difference is the 4 toroids and associated
caps for band pass and TX lowpass RF filters.

If you want unfiltered (wide) audio tap at R27 wiper and use a separate audio amplifer.

Or alter the filter for SSB bandwidth, which is often too wide for CW ops.

Allison

Re: 10w linear, possible improvement? #pa

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

No.  It would complicate the construction and make it harder to assemble.
That is a alternate technique for getting the input and output further apart.
and works well for dead bug assembly if space is not an issue.  I use that
as its convenient for dead bug construction with out a well designed board.

Keep in mind most of the IRF510 power amp designs are copies of either WA1EBY
amp (QST-1999, also HF Packer K500R) or copies of copies of an earlier design 
by several others.  Most are gain optimized to get as much power as possible and
often with rather poor layout like long leads especially the source lead.  What is not
realized is the IRF510 has gain to VHF and if not handled well it does bad things.
So good layout (VHF quality with fat enough conductors with lots of ground vias)
and feedback to tame the gain goes far to making an amp that is stable with all
loads and at all power levels.  Do that and problem like high SWR are not an issue.

Perennial yabut:
Also going to RD16HHF has no advantage as its voltage limited for 13.8V systems
and has a very high standing bias current (typically 250 to 500ma per device)
requirement for reasonable performance. That and a pair is about 10$ real price
and its widely copied (fakes) and single manufacturer.  So it confers no significant
advantage for HF and 6M.

Allison

Re: QCX 3 Trimmers can't find minimums

Don DeGregori
 

David, I totally agree. The capacitors in the kit are probably all installed correctly, for one has to read a number, not see a color. And the 2 resistor looking inductors are no problem.

Anyway blue body resistors aren't going to change. It's an excuse for me not getting it to work correctly. Plus, one eye was getting watery and I was getting fed up not getting the trimmers to do anything but turn. C1 tunes fine on LCD. And this was right at the beginning of testing. Who knows what's in store for me down the line.
Still a great kit with lots of super features I can't wait to try.

Don

Re: ProgRock won't program correctly

geoff M0ORE
 

Why do you think you have a problem with the de-bouncing when no other builder ( including me ) have not had a problem?

If the instructions say you should see four flashes after each button press , then you will see four flashes. If you don't, then you have a problem. Software does not behave intermittently.

I don't understand your sequence quote" The sequence: set wwitch to 0000 Power off.  Power on. 0000 0001 0000 1111 Power off Power on." What is the aim of this sequence?


On 28/08/2019 13:23, Floyd Hollister wrote:
Hexadecimal:  The switch I am using produces binary  as follows:  0000  0001 0010 0011 0100 0101 0110 0111 1000 1001 1010 1011 1100 1101 1110 1111. where 1 is a closure and 0 is open circuit.  I am using the 4 bits just as they would be generated by the 4-bit slide switch.  I use 1111 as  "enter"  The problem did not change with or without the use of the thumb-wheel switch.

Factory reset: this works with 010 enter.  The sequence: set wwitch to 0000 Power off.  Power on. 0000 0001 0000 1111 Power off Power on.  Output is 10 MHz, but no change in the problem of setting the frequency to my desired 151700000 MHz.  

Does any one know about the four flashes after each numerical input? What if instead of four flashes, the LED only stays red as long as the button is pushed. Should I just ignore this and keep reentering the number until I get four flashes?

I am trying to enter numbers into register 04  the sequence I am using for 151700000 Hz is set switch to 0000 power off power on (get four flashes) 04151700000 enter (1111). 
The result is unpredictable but once in a while will produce the desired frequency but not repeatedly  and the same with either the 4-bit slide switch or the thumb-wheel switch.  The thumb-wheel switch is somewhat of a distraction and I am only using it because I felt I was literally wearing out the 4-bit switch. (which I also replaced before involving the thumb-wheel switch).

I have an Arduino now so I will try entering the frequency using it.

I will report back results when this is done!

 I still think the root of the problem is debouncing. (Yes I have grounded the 1pps pin).

Thanks for your patience. 

 

Re: ProgRock won't program correctly

Floyd Hollister <fhh11@...>
 

Hexadecimal:  The switch I am using produces binary  as follows:  0000  0001 0010 0011 0100 0101 0110 0111 1000 1001 1010 1011 1100 1101 1110 1111. where 1 is a closure and 0 is open circuit.  I am using the 4 bits just as they would be generated by the 4-bit slide switch.  I use 1111 as  "enter"  The problem did not change with or without the use of the thumb-wheel switch.

Factory reset: this works with 010 enter.  The sequence: set wwitch to 0000 Power off.  Power on. 0000 0001 0000 1111 Power off Power on.  Output is 10 MHz, but no change in the problem of setting the frequency to my desired 151700000 MHz.  

Does any one know about the four flashes after each numerical input? What if instead of four flashes, the LED only stays red as long as the button is pushed. Should I just ignore this and keep reentering the number until I get four flashes?

I am trying to enter numbers into register 04  the sequence I am using for 151700000 Hz is set switch to 0000 power off power on (get four flashes) 04151700000 enter (1111). 
The result is unpredictable but once in a while will produce the desired frequency but not repeatedly  and the same with either the 4-bit slide switch or the thumb-wheel switch.  The thumb-wheel switch is somewhat of a distraction and I am only using it because I felt I was literally wearing out the 4-bit switch. (which I also replaced before involving the thumb-wheel switch).

I have an Arduino now so I will try entering the frequency using it.

I will report back results when this is done!

 I still think the root of the problem is debouncing. (Yes I have grounded the 1pps pin).

Thanks for your patience. 

 

Re: OT Electrolytic caps

Chris Wilson
 

Hello MIKE,

Tuesday, August 27, 2019

You could put two 25v or more 1000uF caps in series with balancing
resistors, but almost certainly less hassle to just buy the correctly
rated (voltage wise) 470uF ones.


Best regards,
Chris 2E0ILY mailto:chris@...


MW> I am repairing a flickering screen on a Vizio TV. it calls for
MW> 470uf 35v caps. Well wouldn't You know They sent 25v caps. Can I
MW> Parallel 2 470uf 25v and will this give me 470uf 50v? Thank You
MW>
MW>




--
Best regards, Chris Wilson (2E0ILY)

Re: OT Electrolytic caps

Chris Wilson
 

Hello MIKE,

Tuesday, August 27, 2019

If an electrolytic is operated within its rated voltage it should
last the hours the spec sheet states, *ASSUMING* it receives no
sudden voltage spikes and is not operated in a hot environment above
its temperature rating. In some SMPS it's often worth buying higher
temp rated electrolytics and ALWAYS worth buying branded ones. Higher
voltage rtings can certainly do no harm. Specific applications may
demand low ESR ones (a measure of its series resistance at AC) Low
ESR components can probably do no harm if in doubt! Physical size and
lead spacing may be critical on modern tiny PCB's, but often you can
"fiddle" in a bigger one on longer leads and secure it out of the way
with glue.


Best regards,
Chris 2E0ILY mailto:chris@...


MW> Thank You, I assume if I use 25v vs 35v they will just fail sooner, Correct?




--
Best regards, Chris Wilson (2E0ILY)

10w linear, possible improvement? #pa

Nick VK4PP
 

Hi all.
So I came across a post, I was looking for irf510 info and amps, and in this post it mentioned that Alison, had been cutting off the drain pin and using the tab instead.
http://www.n6qw.com/Simple_SSB.html
As said, makes sense to separate input and output.

Now not that there is instability in the QSX 10w linear, but wouldn't it benefit from this treatment?
I see there are a.feq.traces that cross over one another in the ifr510 section of the PCB...

Thoughts? Maybe for rev3?

Cheers Nick.

Re: OT Electrolytic caps

Jerry <wa6owr@...>
 

NO


On Tue, Aug 27, 2019 at 12:19 PM MIKE WILLMAN <aa9aa@...> wrote:

I am repairing a flickering screen on a Vizio TV. it calls for 470uf 35v caps. Well wouldn't  You know They sent 25v caps. Can I Parallel 2 470uf 25v and will this give me 470uf 50v? Thank You

 

Re: OT Electrolytic caps

MIKE WILLMAN
 

24v so 25v would not give a safe margin. Ordered the 35v

Re: 30 Meter QCX WWV

Shirley Dulcey KE1L
 

I have copied the 15 MHz WWV signal on a 20m QCX. The audio is very muffled but it is possible to understand. 10 MHz WWV should sound the same, and will be easier to receive because it won't be attenuated by the low pass filter.


On Tue, Aug 27, 2019, 4:48 PM John Seboldt K0JD <k0jd-l@...> wrote:

Bet it would. The 200Hz bandwidth filter doesn't have super sharp skirts like DSP or crystal filters so you might barely make out the voice. You would surely hear the "tick" tone (1kHz) and the main tone. Tune down to it and try!

John K0JD
Milwaukee

On 8/27/2019 15:39, Don DeGregori wrote:
Would WWV AM voice be readable at all?

Re: U3S + 5 watt PA troubleshooting help needed.

Liam Kingsmill <lumetters1@...>
 

Alan, Update  #2:

Maybe the offending stranded wire revealed itself.  It may have been one strand at the PCB of the 5 volt supply wire (which supplies the U3S)   Anyway, the U3S works again without blowing the 2 amp fuse in its supply.

Another calibration of the U3S PA ought to return us to square one.  After the calibration, I will reconnect the wires hanging off the 5 watt PA to the U3S.  Hoping Update #3 is all good news.

Liam KI7UPZ