Date   

Mass or weight of QCX 50W Amp #pa

HF
 

What is the mass or weight of the QCX 50W Amp without the enclosure?
Halden VE7UTS


Re: Adapt A Bioenno 24v LiFePO4 Battery To Run The QRPLabs 50 Watt PA?

Gregg Myers
 

Hi Halden,

To answer your question about about the sudden high current draw, I have not measured the instantaneous envelope response and it would be a bit difficult for me to measure this because I don't have the proper RF attenuator. However, I have have at least 50 QSOs using this power configuration with the 50w PA and can say I have had no complaints or negative comments on the air. So that is a plus. That is not to say that alternate devices might work just as well or maybe even better. The boost module I have was actually recommended by someone else, and I thought it looked interesting enough (and cheap enough) to give it a go. Since it seems to be working for me, I have not had any reason to look elsewhere. 

So I would not discourage your experimentation with other devices and if you do, please provide feedback - probably most of these DC converters are not so different, but it's good to know which are proven in actual practice, especially with regard to unwanted receiver noise.

At the same time, to summarize my experience, I have no ill effects to report on air, nor any noticed noise on the receiver with my setup. I have a 20A-hr LiPo battery or a deep cycle marine battery at my QTH so I have not needed to explore any weaker battery source for running the converter. Maybe someone else might comment if they have tried other batteries. I do run the QCX at exactly 12v when using the PA such that the input RF is not overdriving the Amp. I think that is good practice for everyone, and dropping your QCX supply down to 12v power with some diodes is quite ok.

Ha, I guess I'm not that much help! 😀

Cheers,
Gregg 
W7GRM

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 10:23 PM HF via groups.io <incorridge=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Gregg,

I’m thinking about how to power this amplifier and my QCX although I haven’t ordered the amplifier yet.   Your solution looks great!  But I have a concern.  How well does the boost converter respond to the PA’s sudden demand for 5A at key-down?  Have you looked at the RF output envelope shape to assess this?  Or does it work so well that this detail doesn’t really matter?

I’m thinking of using the “250W 10A Step Up DC Boost Converter Constant Current Power Supply LED Module” from ebay because I already have a few of them.  It seems to do about the same thing as the converter you cited.

Right now, my QCX runs on 4 Li-ion 18650 cells from Tenergy.  I use a diode to drop a little voltage at the beginning of the discharge cycle.  The higher voltage gives me a bit more TX power, though it’s so small, it’s probably not discernible at the receive end.

I’m not sure the 2.6 Ah Li-ion batteries are up to the task of providing 7-9A pulses on transmit.  Also, they probably wouldn’t last very long.  So, I’m thinking of using my Miady 6Ah LiFePO4 battery when using the 50W PA.  The guidance on using the PA says to run the QCX at 12V to avoid overdriving the PA.  So, I’d probably put in a diode or 12V LDO regulator to drop the LiFePO4’s voltage down to 12V.

Cheers

Halden VE7UTS


Re: Adapt A Bioenno 24v LiFePO4 Battery To Run The QRPLabs 50 Watt PA?

HF
 

Hi Gregg,

I’m thinking about how to power this amplifier and my QCX although I haven’t ordered the amplifier yet.   Your solution looks great!  But I have a concern.  How well does the boost converter respond to the PA’s sudden demand for 5A at key-down?  Have you looked at the RF output envelope shape to assess this?  Or does it work so well that this detail doesn’t really matter?

I’m thinking of using the “250W 10A Step Up DC Boost Converter Constant Current Power Supply LED Module” from ebay because I already have a few of them.  It seems to do about the same thing as the converter you cited.

Right now, my QCX runs on 4 Li-ion 18650 cells from Tenergy.  I use a diode to drop a little voltage at the beginning of the discharge cycle.  The higher voltage gives me a bit more TX power, though it’s so small, it’s probably not discernible at the receive end.

I’m not sure the 2.6 Ah Li-ion batteries are up to the task of providing 7-9A pulses on transmit.  Also, they probably wouldn’t last very long.  So, I’m thinking of using my Miady 6Ah LiFePO4 battery when using the 50W PA.  The guidance on using the PA says to run the QCX at 12V to avoid overdriving the PA.  So, I’d probably put in a diode or 12V LDO regulator to drop the LiFePO4’s voltage down to 12V.

Cheers

Halden VE7UTS


Re: 50 watt PA not running

Ronald Taylor
 

Rick, this post was started by Giulio with a separate issue so I want to first say I’m happy you solved your issue Giulio and if you have other issues please jump back in  


Anyway, Rick a simple way to check DC continuity thru the lowpass filter is to check with your ohm meter across C14 or across C21. That will also determine if the secondary of T3 has continuity. The most common issue with this amp is not properly removing the enamel from the large diameter wires and/or not getting a good solder connection to them, especially on the ones going to ground where a lot of heat is required. The fact that you had success with the bias setting means that the transformers are all good from the secondary of T1 through the primary and secondary of T2 so check the primary of T1 and the primary of T3. 

At least that’s a few starting points to check. 


Ron


Re: QSO Today Virtual Ham Radio Expo - 08/09 August

muelabfall-dem1@...
 

Hello Reg,

As I regularly follow Hans (anxiously awaiting the availability of the QSX xcvr), I happened to come across your post and mention of Linux & Windows programs.


Are you aware that there are a few programs that allow you to run Windows programs under Linux?

If not, may I respectfully suggest that you might want to first consider watching this YouTube video comparing the different available programs:   
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dqZDuKB949U

Codeweavers Software (not free - but  free to try):  https://www.codeweavers.com/products/crossover-linux

Play on Linux:  https://www.playonlinux.com/en/  is free to download.

WINE is widely recognized by the Linux community and is free to download. 

https://appdb.winehq.org/objectManager.php?bIsQueue=false&bIsRejected=false&sClass=application&sReturnToTitle=Browse%20Applications&sTitle=Browse+Applications&iItemsPerPage=25&iPage=1&iappCategoryOp0=11&sappCategoryData0=125%3Cbr%3E&sOrderBy=appName&bAscending=true&iItemsPerPage=25&iPage=2

Play on Linux runs very slow on my 14 year old under-powered laptop using Linux Mint.   I haven't been able to get Wine to work correctly on the old laptop (but then again, I am still learning about Linux).  Downloading the trial version of Codeweavers is on my "to do" list when I can finally make the time.

Just thought I would share the above programs info in case you were not aware of these options.

Cheers & Beers,
Steve - KU9J






Re: 0.03w RF output, 1w at transistor drains, Help? #qcx

 

I'm unsure at this point, the LPF appears to be working fine even with the broken cap (if it is broken), passing RF through properly, but the LPF itself just isnt being fed with any power


Re: Difficulty during alignment - RF output #20m #qcx #problem

W5EGA@...
 

Alan and Ron,

I have checked Q4 with the multimeter... it shows 14.6V DC without key down and drops to below half upon keying the radio.

I also checked Q5 and it showed 0VDC without key down and 13V DC upon keying the radio.  

I'm at a loss but I'm not ready to quit. Any other suggestions? What do you think about desoldering L1-L4, re-winding them with fresh wire, and starting again?  


Re: using U3S with receiver module for WSPR in IQ mode

Bruce K1FFX
 

According to this, I/Q is supported by WSPR2.12.  I saw no sign of it in the WSJT-X doc, as you said.
I went ahead and downloaded the latest version of WSJT-X (for the Mac) and there is no sign of I/Q
support there.

I have used the receiver module's I/Q output to copy WSPR using WSPR 2.12 (on Windows).

- Bruce K1FFX


Re: 50 watt PA not running

Rick Thorpe KC3PNM
 

Ron, thanks for the reply and apologies for the delay getting back to you.  Yes, the idle current bias adjustment went as described in the manual.  On the lowpass, I think the answer is yes after looking at the circuit diagram and probing with the DVM, but I will confess that my level of building is that of a not very good paint by numbers amateur - is there a particular pair of pins I should test?   


Re: Winding toroids

John AK4AT
 

I have a pair of safety wire "twisters" (pliers) from my aircraft tech career. The tool makes quick work of it!


Re: Can no longer adjust Peak BPF

Shane Justice
 

Hi Charles,

I am so glad you found the reset was an easy fix.

Sorry for the untimely reply, I was pontificating at length, and by the time I hit SEND, and was returned to my in box, I saw your announcement that you had tried a reset and my message was already gone. 

Those were all the thoughts I had on issues I've had over the years. I am glad you had none of those issues! Perhaps someone may find my diatribe useful... 😃

73,
Shane
KE7TR


On Aug 10, 2020 at 15:05, Charles Mims <chmims@...> wrote:

Your input is appreciated.  But the problem was resolved with a reset. I wish they were all that easy. 

Charles 


On Aug 10, 2020, at 4:27 PM, Shane Justice <justshane@...> wrote:


Charles,

Forgive these suggestions if they do not apply to your situation:

1) Are you seeing the soldered joints as bright, shiny connections, or are they dull, irregular-shaped, and/or tarnished with brown spots? If the connections are not bright and shiny and smooth, you might have a contaminated soldering iron tip, which should be either chemically cleaned, abrasively cleaned to bare metal, or replaced. If there is a lot of brown flux on the board and you live in a humid area, that flux can absorb water from the air and provide conduction paths of varying characteristics that can wreak havock on tuned circuits. If you have flux residue, clean it off with either isopropyl alcohol or acetone and a stiff brush about pencil width to get I to the books and crannies. Rinse with the same solvent. Do this with good ventilation and wear nitrile gloves to protect your skin, and glasses/goggles to protect your eyes. These solvents are low vapor pressure, so avoid proximity to any fire, flame, heatsource, or spark generation by motors and fans. Alcohol flames can be invisible in daylight, so use extreme caution to avoid sparks and static electricity.

2) Make sure the solder is rosin core solder, not acid core. Acid core solder will attack the metals in the circuit card, as well as the leads of the components. If acid core was used, scrap the board. There is no recovery effective (that I know of). Cut your losses and buy another kit. If you are using lead free solder,( and even if you are using leaded solder) make sure the iron you are using has the heat capacity to melt the solder adequately, but not overheat the solder to the point where all the flux has boiled/cooked off. The correct temperature range is on the solder label. 

3) Check both sides of the board to make sure the solder has flowed through both sides of the hole. It is not good practice to rely upon the vias in the holes for connection, as vias can separate over time, depending upon the quality of the CCA. 
If the solder appears as a ball sitting on top of the hole, surrounding the lead, the solder most likely has not bonded with the hole/ via, and there may be poor or no electrical connection to the rest of the circuit segment.

4) Look on and around the components for minute whiskers of metal bridging between adjacent traces. Make sure all the surface mount devices are free, as well.

5) On all your torroids, make sure the leads were properly stripped so they will accept solder. Verify the proper wires of the torroid are matched up and in the proper holes- continuity from each source/destination for each wire's end point. Don't cross your wires here! 😃

I wish you the best of luck with you project!

73,
Shane
KE7TR

On Aug 10, 2020 at 11:15, Charles Mims <chmims@...> wrote:

I have resoldered the wires on T1and checked them for placement and continuity and everything appears fine.  BPF continuity is 0.0.  I also resoldered all the capacitors and resistors that seemed associated with T1 and C1. 

Unfortunately, the problem persists.  When I selected 8.7 I get a bar graph with a value of 4.  Turning C1 has  no effect.  However when turning the volume it does go up and down.
On checking I-Q, Hi and Lo Phase I again get the bar graph and a value of about 3.  Turning the volume the sound goes up and down but the bar graph and number is unchanged.

I've considered re-winding T1 but since it was working well before putting it in the enclosure I can't  see winding itself is the problem, but if you think it is worth a try I can.

Charles KG5ZLH

On Sun, Aug 9, 2020 at 10:58 PM Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:
OK Charles. Well the standard recommendation at this point is to re-solder all the wires on T-1.  But first,  make sure all 8 wires are in the correct holes. Then check for DC continuity through the bandpass filter. I think your test signal is getting through it by what you said but make sure it’s OK. Then proceed to the re-soldering of T1.  If you didn’t clean off the enamel before inserting the 8 wires in the holes, then touch a hot soldering iron to the very tip of each wire and hold it there with a little solder applied until it melts any remaining enamel off the wire end and forms a nice shiny inverted cone of solder all the way From the pad to the tip of the wire. Make sure especially that any of the wires going to ground are also shiny. Those take more heat. 

If that doesn’t fix it let us know. 

Ron



On Sun, Aug 9, 2020 at 19:57 Charles Mims <chmims@...> wrote:
I did give those a try. The volume goes up and down but the bar graphs do not change their values. 

Charles KG5ZLH 


On Aug 9, 2020, at 7:46 PM, Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:


Hi Charles. Go ahead and try the IQ and Hi and Lo phase adjustments again and see if they work or not. That might be of help. Thanks ... Ron

On Sun, Aug 9, 2020 at 17:38 Charles Mims <chmims@...> wrote:
Yes, it is the stock enclosure. Unfortunately, the problem persists even after I removed it from the enclosure. 

Charles KG5ZLH 


On Aug 9, 2020, at 6:23 PM, N3MNT <bob@...> wrote:

You don't say which enclosure.  if it is the stock enclosure, you could have one or two long leads on the solder side of the board hitting the case.  The clearance is tight under the board.  I added a piece of 0.5M PETG sheet between the board and the case as a precaution.


Re: G-QRP Online Convention

Shirley Dulcey KE1L
 

Correction: the times are in UTC, which is not the same as local London time during the summer. My point about late nights or early mornings is still correct.


On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 5:43 PM Shirley Dulcey KE1L via groups.io <mark=buttery.org@groups.io> wrote:
The G-QRP club is having an online convention on September 5-7. Unlike the recent QSO Today convention it's not free (no corporate sponsors), but the price is a quite reasonable £4 for G-QRP members. If you're not a member, you can get both a convention ticket and a year's membership for £10 (UK) or  £17 (elsewhere). Info at http://www.gqrp.com/convention.htm

QRP Labs relevance: Hans Summers G0UPL is the first speaker. He will be giving a talk titled Building QRP Transceivers.

A warning to US hams: all the times are in London time, so you're facing either an early morning (east coast) or a late night (west coast) to catch Hans.


using U3S with receiver module for WSPR in IQ mode

fred.g3srf@...
 

I'm looking into the building of a U3S kit with the rx module for the reception of WSPR with the IQ interface.
The instructions on page 21 of the receiver module build document, para 6.2 apply to the basic WSPR 2.12 software but can anyone say if the IQ facility is available on the WSJT-X software. I've read through the help file but can't find any reference to IQ demod.


Re: Can no longer adjust Peak BPF

Charles Mims
 

Your input is appreciated.  But the problem was resolved with a reset. I wish they were all that easy. 

Charles 


On Aug 10, 2020, at 4:27 PM, Shane Justice <justshane@...> wrote:


Charles,

Forgive these suggestions if they do not apply to your situation:

1) Are you seeing the soldered joints as bright, shiny connections, or are they dull, irregular-shaped, and/or tarnished with brown spots? If the connections are not bright and shiny and smooth, you might have a contaminated soldering iron tip, which should be either chemically cleaned, abrasively cleaned to bare metal, or replaced. If there is a lot of brown flux on the board and you live in a humid area, that flux can absorb water from the air and provide conduction paths of varying characteristics that can wreak havock on tuned circuits. If you have flux residue, clean it off with either isopropyl alcohol or acetone and a stiff brush about pencil width to get I to the books and crannies. Rinse with the same solvent. Do this with good ventilation and wear nitrile gloves to protect your skin, and glasses/goggles to protect your eyes. These solvents are low vapor pressure, so avoid proximity to any fire, flame, heatsource, or spark generation by motors and fans. Alcohol flames can be invisible in daylight, so use extreme caution to avoid sparks and static electricity.

2) Make sure the solder is rosin core solder, not acid core. Acid core solder will attack the metals in the circuit card, as well as the leads of the components. If acid core was used, scrap the board. There is no recovery effective (that I know of). Cut your losses and buy another kit. If you are using lead free solder,( and even if you are using leaded solder) make sure the iron you are using has the heat capacity to melt the solder adequately, but not overheat the solder to the point where all the flux has boiled/cooked off. The correct temperature range is on the solder label. 

3) Check both sides of the board to make sure the solder has flowed through both sides of the hole. It is not good practice to rely upon the vias in the holes for connection, as vias can separate over time, depending upon the quality of the CCA. 
If the solder appears as a ball sitting on top of the hole, surrounding the lead, the solder most likely has not bonded with the hole/ via, and there may be poor or no electrical connection to the rest of the circuit segment.

4) Look on and around the components for minute whiskers of metal bridging between adjacent traces. Make sure all the surface mount devices are free, as well.

5) On all your torroids, make sure the leads were properly stripped so they will accept solder. Verify the proper wires of the torroid are matched up and in the proper holes- continuity from each source/destination for each wire's end point. Don't cross your wires here! 😃

I wish you the best of luck with you project!

73,
Shane
KE7TR

On Aug 10, 2020 at 11:15, Charles Mims <chmims@...> wrote:

I have resoldered the wires on T1and checked them for placement and continuity and everything appears fine.  BPF continuity is 0.0.  I also resoldered all the capacitors and resistors that seemed associated with T1 and C1. 

Unfortunately, the problem persists.  When I selected 8.7 I get a bar graph with a value of 4.  Turning C1 has  no effect.  However when turning the volume it does go up and down.
On checking I-Q, Hi and Lo Phase I again get the bar graph and a value of about 3.  Turning the volume the sound goes up and down but the bar graph and number is unchanged.

I've considered re-winding T1 but since it was working well before putting it in the enclosure I can't  see winding itself is the problem, but if you think it is worth a try I can.

Charles KG5ZLH

On Sun, Aug 9, 2020 at 10:58 PM Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:
OK Charles. Well the standard recommendation at this point is to re-solder all the wires on T-1.  But first,  make sure all 8 wires are in the correct holes. Then check for DC continuity through the bandpass filter. I think your test signal is getting through it by what you said but make sure it’s OK. Then proceed to the re-soldering of T1.  If you didn’t clean off the enamel before inserting the 8 wires in the holes, then touch a hot soldering iron to the very tip of each wire and hold it there with a little solder applied until it melts any remaining enamel off the wire end and forms a nice shiny inverted cone of solder all the way From the pad to the tip of the wire. Make sure especially that any of the wires going to ground are also shiny. Those take more heat. 

If that doesn’t fix it let us know. 

Ron



On Sun, Aug 9, 2020 at 19:57 Charles Mims <chmims@...> wrote:
I did give those a try. The volume goes up and down but the bar graphs do not change their values. 

Charles KG5ZLH 


On Aug 9, 2020, at 7:46 PM, Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:


Hi Charles. Go ahead and try the IQ and Hi and Lo phase adjustments again and see if they work or not. That might be of help. Thanks ... Ron

On Sun, Aug 9, 2020 at 17:38 Charles Mims <chmims@...> wrote:
Yes, it is the stock enclosure. Unfortunately, the problem persists even after I removed it from the enclosure. 

Charles KG5ZLH 


On Aug 9, 2020, at 6:23 PM, N3MNT <bob@...> wrote:

You don't say which enclosure.  if it is the stock enclosure, you could have one or two long leads on the solder side of the board hitting the case.  The clearance is tight under the board.  I added a piece of 0.5M PETG sheet between the board and the case as a precaution.


Re: Winding toroids

Mike Besemer - WM4B
 

Bruce,

 

Yes… in terms of installation it makes sense (no pun intended) to wind in a certain direction.  You can look in the manual and see how Hans did it in the pictures.  Once you have the board it will make perfect sense.

 

Mike

WM4B

 

From: QRPLabs@groups.io [mailto:QRPLabs@groups.io] On Behalf Of Bruce K1FFX
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 5:31 PM
To: QRPLabs@groups.io
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] Winding toroids

 

On the topic of winding toroids (and hopefully not too far off the OP's original topic):

I've just ordered my first QCX+ (and actually first QCX family).  I've had a quick look at the
assembly manual regarding T1.  It notes that it can be wound in either sense ... makes no
difference electrically (as long as all the windings are in the same sense).

My experience has been that it can make a difference in terms of installation ... i.e., where the
leads end up WRT where the holes in the PCB are.  For example, I recently built an RF amplifier
kit where the instructions were explicitly "wind the toroids CCW to line up leads and holes."

For the QCX+, is there an optimal winding direction for mounting T1 on the PCB?  And how
about for the other toroidal inductors?

Thanks -

Bruce K1FFX


G-QRP Online Convention

Shirley Dulcey KE1L
 

The G-QRP club is having an online convention on September 5-7. Unlike the recent QSO Today convention it's not free (no corporate sponsors), but the price is a quite reasonable £4 for G-QRP members. If you're not a member, you can get both a convention ticket and a year's membership for £10 (UK) or  £17 (elsewhere). Info at http://www.gqrp.com/convention.htm

QRP Labs relevance: Hans Summers G0UPL is the first speaker. He will be giving a talk titled Building QRP Transceivers.

A warning to US hams: all the times are in London time, so you're facing either an early morning (east coast) or a late night (west coast) to catch Hans.


Re: Winding toroids

Bruce K1FFX
 

On the topic of winding toroids (and hopefully not too far off the OP's original topic):

I've just ordered my first QCX+ (and actually first QCX family).  I've had a quick look at the
assembly manual regarding T1.  It notes that it can be wound in either sense ... makes no
difference electrically (as long as all the windings are in the same sense).

My experience has been that it can make a difference in terms of installation ... i.e., where the
leads end up WRT where the holes in the PCB are.  For example, I recently built an RF amplifier
kit where the instructions were explicitly "wind the toroids CCW to line up leads and holes."

For the QCX+, is there an optimal winding direction for mounting T1 on the PCB?  And how
about for the other toroidal inductors?

Thanks -

Bruce K1FFX


Re: Can no longer adjust Peak BPF

Shane Justice
 

Charles,

Forgive these suggestions if they do not apply to your situation:

1) Are you seeing the soldered joints as bright, shiny connections, or are they dull, irregular-shaped, and/or tarnished with brown spots? If the connections are not bright and shiny and smooth, you might have a contaminated soldering iron tip, which should be either chemically cleaned, abrasively cleaned to bare metal, or replaced. If there is a lot of brown flux on the board and you live in a humid area, that flux can absorb water from the air and provide conduction paths of varying characteristics that can wreak havock on tuned circuits. If you have flux residue, clean it off with either isopropyl alcohol or acetone and a stiff brush about pencil width to get I to the books and crannies. Rinse with the same solvent. Do this with good ventilation and wear nitrile gloves to protect your skin, and glasses/goggles to protect your eyes. These solvents are low vapor pressure, so avoid proximity to any fire, flame, heatsource, or spark generation by motors and fans. Alcohol flames can be invisible in daylight, so use extreme caution to avoid sparks and static electricity.

2) Make sure the solder is rosin core solder, not acid core. Acid core solder will attack the metals in the circuit card, as well as the leads of the components. If acid core was used, scrap the board. There is no recovery effective (that I know of). Cut your losses and buy another kit. If you are using lead free solder,( and even if you are using leaded solder) make sure the iron you are using has the heat capacity to melt the solder adequately, but not overheat the solder to the point where all the flux has boiled/cooked off. The correct temperature range is on the solder label. 

3) Check both sides of the board to make sure the solder has flowed through both sides of the hole. It is not good practice to rely upon the vias in the holes for connection, as vias can separate over time, depending upon the quality of the CCA. 
If the solder appears as a ball sitting on top of the hole, surrounding the lead, the solder most likely has not bonded with the hole/ via, and there may be poor or no electrical connection to the rest of the circuit segment.

4) Look on and around the components for minute whiskers of metal bridging between adjacent traces. Make sure all the surface mount devices are free, as well.

5) On all your torroids, make sure the leads were properly stripped so they will accept solder. Verify the proper wires of the torroid are matched up and in the proper holes- continuity from each source/destination for each wire's end point. Don't cross your wires here! 😃

I wish you the best of luck with you project!

73,
Shane
KE7TR

On Aug 10, 2020 at 11:15, Charles Mims <chmims@...> wrote:

I have resoldered the wires on T1and checked them for placement and continuity and everything appears fine.  BPF continuity is 0.0.  I also resoldered all the capacitors and resistors that seemed associated with T1 and C1. 

Unfortunately, the problem persists.  When I selected 8.7 I get a bar graph with a value of 4.  Turning C1 has  no effect.  However when turning the volume it does go up and down.
On checking I-Q, Hi and Lo Phase I again get the bar graph and a value of about 3.  Turning the volume the sound goes up and down but the bar graph and number is unchanged.

I've considered re-winding T1 but since it was working well before putting it in the enclosure I can't  see winding itself is the problem, but if you think it is worth a try I can.

Charles KG5ZLH

On Sun, Aug 9, 2020 at 10:58 PM Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:
OK Charles. Well the standard recommendation at this point is to re-solder all the wires on T-1.  But first,  make sure all 8 wires are in the correct holes. Then check for DC continuity through the bandpass filter. I think your test signal is getting through it by what you said but make sure it’s OK. Then proceed to the re-soldering of T1.  If you didn’t clean off the enamel before inserting the 8 wires in the holes, then touch a hot soldering iron to the very tip of each wire and hold it there with a little solder applied until it melts any remaining enamel off the wire end and forms a nice shiny inverted cone of solder all the way From the pad to the tip of the wire. Make sure especially that any of the wires going to ground are also shiny. Those take more heat. 

If that doesn’t fix it let us know. 

Ron



On Sun, Aug 9, 2020 at 19:57 Charles Mims <chmims@...> wrote:
I did give those a try. The volume goes up and down but the bar graphs do not change their values. 

Charles KG5ZLH 


On Aug 9, 2020, at 7:46 PM, Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:


Hi Charles. Go ahead and try the IQ and Hi and Lo phase adjustments again and see if they work or not. That might be of help. Thanks ... Ron

On Sun, Aug 9, 2020 at 17:38 Charles Mims <chmims@...> wrote:
Yes, it is the stock enclosure. Unfortunately, the problem persists even after I removed it from the enclosure. 

Charles KG5ZLH 


On Aug 9, 2020, at 6:23 PM, N3MNT <bob@...> wrote:

You don't say which enclosure.  if it is the stock enclosure, you could have one or two long leads on the solder side of the board hitting the case.  The clearance is tight under the board.  I added a piece of 0.5M PETG sheet between the board and the case as a precaution.


Re: Can no longer adjust Peak BPF

Charles Mims
 

Well that was easy!

No, I do not have a TCXO.  But when you mentioned a reset I thought what's to lose.  Voila! after the reset all is fixed.  Peak BPF, I-Q Balance, Hi and Low Phase all working and adjusted.  Anyway, the next time someone has a similar issue that might be something easy to try.

Thanks again for your help.

Charles KG5ZLH

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 1:29 PM Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:
A few questions Charles.

Are you hearing the tone in the earphones when you do the 8.7 BPF alignment?
Are you using the TCXO option? If so did you happen to do a factory reset at some point? If you did that, did you remember to reset the Reference frequency to 25 MHz? If not it will be on the wrong frequency and not able to align..

Ron

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 11:15 AM Charles Mims <chmims@...> wrote:
I have resoldered the wires on T1and checked them for placement and continuity and everything appears fine.  BPF continuity is 0.0.  I also resoldered all the capacitors and resistors that seemed associated with T1 and C1. 

Unfortunately, the problem persists.  When I selected 8.7 I get a bar graph with a value of 4.  Turning C1 has  no effect.  However when turning the volume it does go up and down.
On checking I-Q, Hi and Lo Phase I again get the bar graph and a value of about 3.  Turning the volume the sound goes up and down but the bar graph and number is unchanged.

I've considered re-winding T1 but since it was working well before putting it in the enclosure I can't  see winding itself is the problem, but if you think it is worth a try I can.

Charles KG5ZLH

On Sun, Aug 9, 2020 at 10:58 PM Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:
OK Charles. Well the standard recommendation at this point is to re-solder all the wires on T-1.  But first,  make sure all 8 wires are in the correct holes. Then check for DC continuity through the bandpass filter. I think your test signal is getting through it by what you said but make sure it’s OK. Then proceed to the re-soldering of T1.  If you didn’t clean off the enamel before inserting the 8 wires in the holes, then touch a hot soldering iron to the very tip of each wire and hold it there with a little solder applied until it melts any remaining enamel off the wire end and forms a nice shiny inverted cone of solder all the way From the pad to the tip of the wire. Make sure especially that any of the wires going to ground are also shiny. Those take more heat. 

If that doesn’t fix it let us know. 

Ron



On Sun, Aug 9, 2020 at 19:57 Charles Mims <chmims@...> wrote:
I did give those a try. The volume goes up and down but the bar graphs do not change their values. 

Charles KG5ZLH 


On Aug 9, 2020, at 7:46 PM, Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:


Hi Charles. Go ahead and try the IQ and Hi and Lo phase adjustments again and see if they work or not. That might be of help. Thanks ... Ron

On Sun, Aug 9, 2020 at 17:38 Charles Mims <chmims@...> wrote:
Yes, it is the stock enclosure. Unfortunately, the problem persists even after I removed it from the enclosure. 

Charles KG5ZLH 


On Aug 9, 2020, at 6:23 PM, N3MNT <bob@...> wrote:

You don't say which enclosure.  if it is the stock enclosure, you could have one or two long leads on the solder side of the board hitting the case.  The clearance is tight under the board.  I added a piece of 0.5M PETG sheet between the board and the case as a precaution.


Re: QCX+ 7805 problem

Dick de V
 

Ross, I had the same issue. I didn't find a short circuit either.
 After I disconnected D2 on one side the problem was gone and I normally had 5 volts.
In my case C2 turned out to be defective, had internal closure. Check the 100 NF capacitors for closure.

Dick   DL1CLM