Strange, I sent this several hours ago but it never appeared. Let me try again. Brian VE7JKZ -------- Forwarded Message --------

Hi David, Nail polish works just fine. Did this on two kits. On the primary winding try to keep it under a bit of tension, to prevent unraveling, while drying 72 Ray VE7AVG/VA7SK

I think I've gotten the U3S/WSPR at, or close to, what I can achieve with a heat sink, foam, and rubber bands ... and it's pretty good. I'm interested in doing the TCXO experiment ... a bit more kit

Changed to basic crystal reference. I show my RX at ~27.005MHz of the crystal frequency with Park mode 3 at the end of one TX/beginning of another. And two using Park mode 0, one at the start after

To prevent excess heat reaching the switch body, clamp a haemostat* between the switch and the tag. *A pair of needle nose or pointed pliers held shut with an elastic band is a good

I've managed to come up with a procedure for repeating my problem. I've got the unit mode indices programmed so it operates as follows: 1. Power on U3S. Ultimate3S 3.12a appears. Then

I used clear nail varnish on the two I built and usually do that for anything that’s likely to move; it’s also good for stopping nuts from unscrewing to rattle around without making them

I'm sure there's probably something else out there but it seems like the key with those switches is not put too much heat on the terminals when you solder the wires in place. They seem to act very

John, VA7JBE No, That's designed for VHF and UP. it would be terrible for a whip. The amrad whip was a project maybe 10 years ago and use the CP600 series JFET. The article is posted with this

Perhaps it's the AMRAD active antenna featured QST Sept 2001 ? Alan

Allison, do you have a title or an author for the QST article? -- Karl Heinz - K5KHK

Try the PGA-103 MMIC (Mini-Circuits brand). while not targeted for MF/HF use it does work remarkably well at that frequency range. VHF and up oriented but a good all round intro to the

Hi all, Has anyone found a better quality push button . I replaced the original with ones from Ebay…same type and they have not lasted that long. Get loose inside and start skipping and double

Hey everyone, I appreciate everyone's feedback and suggestions. Thanks for this, Ron. I did check out the pot as you suggested, and I couldn't determine anything really physically amiss. However

I received the case for the clock kit (from Japan) after about 3 weeks and the electronic components 2 weeks later from Turkey. I had to be home for both deliveries since a signature was required -

Why not check the polarity with a voltmeter??

Has anyone used any Q Dope or finger nail polish on the ends of the wires on the coil to hold the wires in place to make it easier to insert on the board? In other kits the wires started to loosen

Lots of good and accurate replies here, still I'd like to add my little bit. John N3AAZ provided two good illustrations, and Allison good theoretical explanations. My experiences have been very

I did try a MICC as amplifier for an broadband loop but I found they either have insufficient gain (as their 50 ohm input impedance is badly matched with the loop) or when cascaded tend to get

Hi Alison, Is this the amplifier that you're talking about, based on the MAR-7 from MiniCircuits and described in the article below? https://www.amsat.org/articles/wa8sme/preamp.pdf Cheers, John