Date   

Re: 50W Amp Power

Pirok-W4UNX
 

Why not just drop the voltage to 13.8 from the server ps. Then there are no worries. A couple sample solutions might be:

You could create a step-down circuit for the power supply.
You could check for a voltage adjustment pot in the server power supply. (sometimes they are there)


On Fri, May 28, 2021 at 3:23 PM jerry@... <jerry@...> wrote:
On 2021-05-28 11:41, Larry Acklin wrote:
> Or Anderson Power Pole connector.

YMMV, but I don't like them.  I've had failures.  The XT60 is far
superior.
A round pin in a round hole - never fails.

                     - Jerry KF6VB

>
> Larry
> KB3CUF
>
> On Fri, May 28, 2021 at 1:56 PM jerry@... <jerry@...> wrote:
>
>> All,
>>
>> Having finished the QCX+, it's time to start on the matching 50W
>> amp.
>> I notice it likes a 20V supply.  And the power connector
>> seems to be the same as the transceiver.  Now, I have plenty of 20V
>> laptop supplies laying around, but they have a different connector.
>>
>> Not that big a deal to chop the connector off and install a
>> matching
>> one...
>>
>> HOWEVER, this creates a dangerous situation in the shack.  A 20V
>> supply with the exact same connector as several 12V items.  Sure
>> would
>> be easy to plug it into the QCX+ - or my uBITXv6 - and fry them.
>>
>> Solutions?  I could make a little adapter with the laptop socket
>> at
>> one end, and the power plug for the amp at the other - but one could
>> still pull the whole thing - adapter and all - and fry a radio with
>> it.
>>
>> Or maybe not use that connector at all.  Solder a different one
>> on.
>> There are some very nice 2-pin connectors that are used by RC model
>> folks.  Type XT60 is dirt cheap, easy to solder to, polarized, and
>> rated
>> 60 amps.
>>
>> - Jerry KF6VB
>
>
>
> Links:
> ------
> [1] https://groups.io/g/QRPLabs/message/66423
> [2] https://groups.io/mt/83154895/243852
> [3] https://groups.io/g/QRPLabs/post
> [4] https://groups.io/g/QRPLabs/editsub/243852
> [5] https://groups.io/g/QRPLabs/leave/10312280/243852/1190336630/xyzzy







--
Jason Pirok
W4UNX


Re: 50W Amp Power

jerry@tr2.com
 

On 2021-05-28 11:41, Larry Acklin wrote:
Or Anderson Power Pole connector.
YMMV, but I don't like them. I've had failures. The XT60 is far superior.
A round pin in a round hole - never fails.

- Jerry KF6VB

Larry
KB3CUF
On Fri, May 28, 2021 at 1:56 PM jerry@tr2.com <jerry@tr2.com> wrote:

All,
Having finished the QCX+, it's time to start on the matching 50W
amp.
I notice it likes a 20V supply. And the power connector
seems to be the same as the transceiver. Now, I have plenty of 20V
laptop supplies laying around, but they have a different connector.
Not that big a deal to chop the connector off and install a
matching
one...
HOWEVER, this creates a dangerous situation in the shack. A 20V
supply with the exact same connector as several 12V items. Sure
would
be easy to plug it into the QCX+ - or my uBITXv6 - and fry them.
Solutions? I could make a little adapter with the laptop socket
at
one end, and the power plug for the amp at the other - but one could
still pull the whole thing - adapter and all - and fry a radio with
it.
Or maybe not use that connector at all. Solder a different one
on.
There are some very nice 2-pin connectors that are used by RC model
folks. Type XT60 is dirt cheap, easy to solder to, polarized, and
rated
60 amps.
- Jerry KF6VB
Links:
------
[1] https://groups.io/g/QRPLabs/message/66423
[2] https://groups.io/mt/83154895/243852
[3] https://groups.io/g/QRPLabs/post
[4] https://groups.io/g/QRPLabs/editsub/243852
[5] https://groups.io/g/QRPLabs/leave/10312280/243852/1190336630/xyzzy


Re: Park Mode and Frequency #calibration

Bob Isman K6YDS
 

I put the relay board back and added a 2nd band, so now transmitting on both 20 and 40m. Still have heartbeat, calibration shows +006. Still no spots, though.

On 5/28/2021 10:15 AM, Bob Isman K6YDS wrote:
I removed the relay board to simplify things. I'll put it back and see what happens.

On 5/28/2021 9:39 AM, Roger Hill wrote:
Great. So provided your RF is actually reaching the antenna, you should be getting spots. I am not sure if you currently have the relay board installed...the jumper settings on the main board are different if you do/don't have the relay board in place, if I recall correctly.

Maybe temporarily link the output side of the LPF to the antenna??

RogER
8P6RX
Roger

On 28 May 2021, at 12:24, Bob Isman K6YDS <bob.isman@...> wrote:
Yes, I can hear the signal on other receiver. I started calibrating at 10 then switched to 1. Display shows +001.

On 5/28/2021 8:56 AM, Roger Hill wrote:
Hi Bob.
That is good news. So now we need to check for output...can you hear the signal on your other receiver on 7040140?
Also, at the end of each calibration cycle, the display shows the change for that cycle, something like +5 or -7...what are you seeing?
Roger
8P6RX

On 28 May 2021, at 11:51, Bob Isman K6YDS < bob.isman@...> wrote:
I'm not sure we're talking about the same unit. There is no IC2 in the
U3S--only an IC1, and the 1PPS is at pin 28. I couldn't find any pulsing
there yesterday, but I pulled the the IC out of its socket and it looked
like one of the pins (pin 28) might have been bent, so I straightened
it, put it back together, and voila, I was getting heartbeat and
calibration. That's the good news. The bad news is that I left it on all
night and didn't get any spots. So this morning I tried to see if there
was any pulsing at pin 28 and couldn't see any, but it was very hard to
get access to the IC while the unit was running, so not positive about
that. Put it back together and am still getting heartbeat and
calibration, but no spots yet.

On 5/28/2021 2:39 AM, Alan G4ZFQ wrote:



    
Should I be measuring at the IC? Which pin?
If you look at the schematic you will see PPS going into the thick blue "bus" (not sure of it's official name) it comes out at IC2 pin 18 73 Alan G4ZFQ




Re: 50W Amp Power

Larry Acklin
 


Or Anderson Power Pole connector. 

Larry 
KB3CUF 

On Fri, May 28, 2021 at 1:56 PM jerry@... <jerry@...> wrote:
All,

    Having finished the QCX+, it's time to start on the matching 50W amp.
  I notice it likes a 20V supply.  And the power connector
seems to be the same as the transceiver.  Now, I have plenty of 20V
laptop supplies laying around, but they have a different connector.

   Not that big a deal to chop the connector off and install a matching
one...

   HOWEVER, this creates a dangerous situation in the shack.  A 20V
supply with the exact same connector as several 12V items.  Sure would
be easy to plug it into the QCX+ - or my uBITXv6 - and fry them.

   Solutions?  I could make a little adapter with the laptop socket at
one end, and the power plug for the amp at the other - but one could
still pull the whole thing - adapter and all - and fry a radio with it.

   Or maybe not use that connector at all.  Solder a different one on. 
There are some very nice 2-pin connectors that are used by RC model
folks.  Type XT60 is dirt cheap, easy to solder to, polarized, and rated
60 amps.

               - Jerry KF6VB






QCX+ Construction detail

jerry@tr2.com
 

Before I forget,

Here's a detail that might be helpful to others: it's good to drill out the nylon spacers that mount the LCD display assembly to the front panel. Otherwise, it's a real b*tch to get everything screwed together.

The correct drill bit is a #31, which is .120 inches in diameter. It will produce a "push-on" fit. A 1/8 inch ( .125 ) bit will probably also work, but it will be looser than it needs to be.

I have numbered bits because I have a 115-bit set from Harbor Freight. They don't cost very much, and it's really nice to have ALL drill sizes ( in the reasonable range ). The bits gradually dribble away, and when it's too depopulated, I just get another set.

- Jerry KF6VB


Re: FS: Murata 455 KHz ceramic filters

Brad Thompson
 

HF via groups.io wrote on 5/27/2021 11:29 AM:

Hello, Halden--

Thank you for your thoughtful and reasoned comments, which I very much appreciate.
We're both clearly interested in promoting the art of QRP construction and operation,
so we have more in common that it might appear at first glance.

Let's consider the topic closed.

Thanks again, and 73--

Brad  AA1IP







Hi Brad,

I don’t question your point that this forum will reach people interested in your filters.  As you and Bill correctly point out, this forum reaches many innovators who will appreciate having access to such filters.  I just didn’t think it was appropriate because it doesn’t reference a QRP-Labs product.  I don’t see this as an “everything QRP” forum; I see it as a forum for QRP-Labs product support and for discussion of ways we can use QRP-Labs products as the basis for further innovation and learning.  And, I didn’t see your price as being in line with the market.

So, on reading your objection, I decided to check the forum rules and guidelines to verify my understanding of the intended scope of this forum.  It turns out I was wrong.  The forum description says nothing about the scope of topics; it only says who it’s for:  QRP Labs products owners and constructors.  Since your product is of interest to some members of this demographic, it *is* appropriate here.  I apologize to you.  I also apologize to other forum readers for having brought unnecessary unpleasantness to their day.

But since I personally don’t wish this forum to turn into an “everything QRP” or “everything that might be of interest to people who are QRP-Labs customers” forum, I will continue to strive to post only things that pertain to a QRP-Labs product.  I’m pleased that most other participants here also constrain themselves similarly.

As for your filters themselves; I now see their distinguishing characteristic as the depth of the attenuation of out-of-passband signals.  The ones I bought attenuate in the 50-60 dB range; yours have an impressive spec of 80 dB.  Hopefully, -50 dB will be enough for my scanner.  I’m sure there are plenty of applications where -80 dB will provide a meaningful performance difference relative to the cheaper filters.  I hope your filters reach innovators who will put them to good use.

Cheers,

Halden VE7UTS



50W Amp Power

jerry@tr2.com
 

All,

Having finished the QCX+, it's time to start on the matching 50W amp. I notice it likes a 20V supply. And the power connector
seems to be the same as the transceiver. Now, I have plenty of 20V laptop supplies laying around, but they have a different connector.

Not that big a deal to chop the connector off and install a matching one...

HOWEVER, this creates a dangerous situation in the shack. A 20V supply with the exact same connector as several 12V items. Sure would be easy to plug it into the QCX+ - or my uBITXv6 - and fry them.

Solutions? I could make a little adapter with the laptop socket at one end, and the power plug for the amp at the other - but one could
still pull the whole thing - adapter and all - and fry a radio with it.

Or maybe not use that connector at all. Solder a different one on. There are some very nice 2-pin connectors that are used by RC model folks. Type XT60 is dirt cheap, easy to solder to, polarized, and rated 60 amps.

- Jerry KF6VB


Re: Can only get 4 watts from 10w amplifier!

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

Derek,

If you get stuck Im maybe 5 miles away.

Allison
-------------------------------
Please reply on list so we can share.
No private email, it goes to a bit bucket due to address harvesting


Re: QLG2 Failure

Rick Williams - VE7TK
 

Perhaps but it left QRP-Labs a week ago and it was moving VERY quickly up until it left Belgium! The "last" TNT predicted delivery date was 1800 on the 26th.

Now if this was in the hands of Canada Post .... all bets would be off!
--
73, Rick
VE7TK

Website: http://www.ve7tk.com


Re: Park Mode and Frequency #calibration

Alan G4ZFQ
 

I'm not sure we're talking about the same unit.
Yes, I was looking at the QCX:-)
But you did find the right pin!

73 Alan G4ZFQ


Re: Park Mode and Frequency #calibration

Bob Isman K6YDS
 

I removed the relay board to simplify things. I'll put it back and see what happens.

On 5/28/2021 9:39 AM, Roger Hill wrote:
Great. So provided your RF is actually reaching the antenna, you should be getting spots. I am not sure if you currently have the relay board installed...the jumper settings on the main board are different if you do/don't have the relay board in place, if I recall correctly.

Maybe temporarily link the output side of the LPF to the antenna??

RogER
8P6RX
Roger

On 28 May 2021, at 12:24, Bob Isman K6YDS <bob.isman@...> wrote:
Yes, I can hear the signal on other receiver. I started calibrating at 10 then switched to 1. Display shows +001.

On 5/28/2021 8:56 AM, Roger Hill wrote:
Hi Bob.
That is good news. So now we need to check for output...can you hear the signal on your other receiver on 7040140?
Also, at the end of each calibration cycle, the display shows the change for that cycle, something like +5 or -7...what are you seeing?
Roger
8P6RX

On 28 May 2021, at 11:51, Bob Isman K6YDS < bob.isman@...> wrote:
I'm not sure we're talking about the same unit. There is no IC2 in the
U3S--only an IC1, and the 1PPS is at pin 28. I couldn't find any pulsing
there yesterday, but I pulled the the IC out of its socket and it looked
like one of the pins (pin 28) might have been bent, so I straightened
it, put it back together, and voila, I was getting heartbeat and
calibration. That's the good news. The bad news is that I left it on all
night and didn't get any spots. So this morning I tried to see if there
was any pulsing at pin 28 and couldn't see any, but it was very hard to
get access to the IC while the unit was running, so not positive about
that. Put it back together and am still getting heartbeat and
calibration, but no spots yet.

On 5/28/2021 2:39 AM, Alan G4ZFQ wrote:



    
Should I be measuring at the IC? Which pin?
If you look at the schematic you will see PPS going into the thick blue "bus" (not sure of it's official name) it comes out at IC2 pin 18 73 Alan G4ZFQ



Re: Can only get 4 watts from 10w amplifier!

Ian MM0GYX
 

What are you driving it with Derek?


Re: QLG2 Failure

va3rr
 

It's only been in transit for a few days, Rick. Hans should start work on a QRP-Labs matter transporter. lol

vy 73 de va3rr

On Fri, May 28, 2021 at 12:55 PM, Rick Williams - VE7TK wrote:
Sigh ......

--
73, Rick
VE7TK


Re: QLG2 Failure

Rick Williams - VE7TK
 

Oops -- make that 28/05/2021

--
73, Rick
VE7TK

Website: http://www.ve7tk.com


Re: QLG2 Failure

Rick Williams - VE7TK
 

At the moment, failure with my QLG2 lies in the hands of TNT. It left QRP-Labs HQ and followed the path described by Hans to Belgium. Once it left Belgium things went somewhat sideways. After leaving Europe the tracking, as others have described, is a bit sketchy.

Missing from the tracking is any indication of CITY or COUNTRY. Here's the latest information (28/04/2021 - 09:50 local)

26/05/2021, 04:09                                 Shipment arrived at TNT location
25/05/2021, 22:49                                 Shipment in transit
25/05/2021, 12:36                                 Formal customs clearance required
25/05/2021, 07:37    Grace-Hollogne    Shipment in transit

As can be seen the QLG2 has arrived at a "TNT location". And, after 2 days of radio silence, there it sits without a hint as to where that location might be?

I am optimistically thinking the package is somewhere in Canada. It could be in St. John's, Newfoundland (5,000 km east of me) or in Vancouver, BC (100 km east of me). Time will tell!

Sigh ......

--
73, Rick
VE7TK

Website: http://www.ve7tk.com


Re: Park Mode and Frequency #calibration

Roger Hill
 

Great. So provided your RF is actually reaching the antenna, you should be getting spots. I am not sure if you currently have the relay board installed...the jumper settings on the main board are different if you do/don't have the relay board in place, if I recall correctly.

Maybe temporarily link the output side of the LPF to the antenna??

RogER
8P6RX
Roger

On 28 May 2021, at 12:24, Bob Isman K6YDS <bob.isman@...> wrote:
Yes, I can hear the signal on other receiver. I started calibrating at 10 then switched to 1. Display shows +001.

On 5/28/2021 8:56 AM, Roger Hill wrote:
Hi Bob.
That is good news. So now we need to check for output...can you hear the signal on your other receiver on 7040140?
Also, at the end of each calibration cycle, the display shows the change for that cycle, something like +5 or -7...what are you seeing?
Roger
8P6RX

On 28 May 2021, at 11:51, Bob Isman K6YDS < bob.isman@...> wrote:
I'm not sure we're talking about the same unit. There is no IC2 in the
U3S--only an IC1, and the 1PPS is at pin 28. I couldn't find any pulsing
there yesterday, but I pulled the the IC out of its socket and it looked
like one of the pins (pin 28) might have been bent, so I straightened
it, put it back together, and voila, I was getting heartbeat and
calibration. That's the good news. The bad news is that I left it on all
night and didn't get any spots. So this morning I tried to see if there
was any pulsing at pin 28 and couldn't see any, but it was very hard to
get access to the IC while the unit was running, so not positive about
that. Put it back together and am still getting heartbeat and
calibration, but no spots yet.

On 5/28/2021 2:39 AM, Alan G4ZFQ wrote:



    
Should I be measuring at the IC? Which pin?
If you look at the schematic you will see PPS going into the thick blue "bus" (not sure of it's official name) it comes out at IC2 pin 18 73 Alan G4ZFQ


First QSO with QCX+

jerry@tr2.com
 

All,

So this morning I was listening around with my new QCX+... Heard we6m calling CQ. Somebody else was answering him, but I answered him too, just for yuks. Surprised me when he answered my two watts ( according to the Bird wattmeter ). He gave me 559. Well, he's just across the Bay from me - I could possibly see his QTH from my office window. On a cloud-free day with a telescope :).

The full-breakin was pleasant. I could get used to that. But there was some odd little timing thing going on with the key - I made a few mistakes that I didn't expect to make.

- Jerry KF6VB


Re: Park Mode and Frequency #calibration

Bob Isman K6YDS
 

Yes, I can hear the signal on other receiver. I started calibrating at 10 then switched to 1. Display shows +001.

On 5/28/2021 8:56 AM, Roger Hill wrote:
Hi Bob.
That is good news. So now we need to check for output...can you hear the signal on your other receiver on 7040140?
Also, at the end of each calibration cycle, the display shows the change for that cycle, something like +5 or -7...what are you seeing?
Roger
8P6RX

On 28 May 2021, at 11:51, Bob Isman K6YDS <bob.isman@...> wrote:
I'm not sure we're talking about the same unit. There is no IC2 in the 
U3S--only an IC1, and the 1PPS is at pin 28. I couldn't find any pulsing 
there yesterday, but I pulled the the IC out of its socket and it looked 
like one of the pins (pin 28) might have been bent, so I straightened 
it, put it back together, and voila, I was getting heartbeat and 
calibration. That's the good news. The bad news is that I left it on all 
night and didn't get any spots. So this morning I tried to see if there 
was any pulsing at pin 28 and couldn't see any, but it was very hard to 
get access to the IC while the unit was running, so not positive about 
that. Put it back together and am still getting heartbeat and 
calibration, but no spots yet.

On 5/28/2021 2:39 AM, Alan G4ZFQ wrote:
Should I be measuring at the IC? Which pin?
If you look at the schematic you will see PPS going into the thick blue "bus" (not sure of it's official name) it comes out at IC2 pin 18 73 Alan G4ZFQ


Re: Park Mode and Frequency #calibration

Roger Hill
 

Hi Bob.
That is good news. So now we need to check for output...can you hear the signal on your other receiver on 7040140?
Also, at the end of each calibration cycle, the display shows the change for that cycle, something like +5 or -7...what are you seeing?
Roger
8P6RX

On 28 May 2021, at 11:51, Bob Isman K6YDS <bob.isman@...> wrote:
I'm not sure we're talking about the same unit. There is no IC2 in the 
U3S--only an IC1, and the 1PPS is at pin 28. I couldn't find any pulsing
there yesterday, but I pulled the the IC out of its socket and it looked
like one of the pins (pin 28) might have been bent, so I straightened
it, put it back together, and voila, I was getting heartbeat and
calibration. That's the good news. The bad news is that I left it on all
night and didn't get any spots. So this morning I tried to see if there
was any pulsing at pin 28 and couldn't see any, but it was very hard to
get access to the IC while the unit was running, so not positive about
that. Put it back together and am still getting heartbeat and
calibration, but no spots yet.

On 5/28/2021 2:39 AM, Alan G4ZFQ wrote:
Should I be measuring at the IC? Which pin?

If you look at the schematic you will see PPS going into the thick
blue "bus" (not sure of it's official name) it comes out at IC2 pin 18

73 Alan G4ZFQ











Re: Park Mode and Frequency #calibration

Bob Isman K6YDS
 

I'm not sure we're talking about the same unit. There is no IC2 in the U3S--only an IC1, and the 1PPS is at pin 28. I couldn't find any pulsing there yesterday, but I pulled the the IC out of its socket and it looked like one of the pins (pin 28) might have been bent, so I straightened it, put it back together, and voila, I was getting heartbeat and calibration. That's the good news. The bad news is that I left it on all night and didn't get any spots. So this morning I tried to see if there was any pulsing at pin 28 and couldn't see any, but it was very hard to get access to the IC while the unit was running, so not positive about that. Put it back together and am still getting heartbeat and calibration, but no spots yet.

On 5/28/2021 2:39 AM, Alan G4ZFQ wrote:
Should I be measuring at the IC? Which pin?
If you look at the schematic you will see PPS going into the thick blue "bus" (not sure of it's official name) it comes out at IC2 pin 18

73 Alan G4ZFQ



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