Date   

Re: QCX 40 metri e QCX 17 metri in vendita

McFaor
 

Hello Mike
do you still have these?
I am interested in both
--
73 Cristian IU2OZO


Re: A simple QCX AGC #mods #qcx

Trystan G0KAY
 

Bob,

I love your whacky callsign, mine's just okay.

Trystan G0KAY


Re: New QCX Mini finally here

Ronan Cantwell
 

Mine arrived on the 23rd, just in time for my birthday on the 24th 👍. I built it that evening. It only took four and a half hours to put together and align due to the large number of SMD components already in place. A fantastic addition to my two QCX "classics".... Might just order another for 20m


Re: #u3s #troubleshooting No Spots / not sure transmitting #u3s #troubleshooting #help #lpf

GIUSEPPE
 

Hello Brad, it is a really good idea to use the chalk collector to create an antenna, I will try to build a longwire type with internal 9: 1 balun.  today they gave me the qcx mini 20mt kit, I will have some work to do over the weekend.  I am really pleased to know about your Italian origins, Lucca is very beautiful, all of Tuscany is beautiful, you should go sometimes to visit it to rediscover your origins.  thanks for your email, as soon as i fix my u3s i will let you know.  thank you very much and have a nice day.  73 IU8EUN Joseph


Il gio 25 feb 2021, 06:49 Brad G <brad@...> ha scritto:
Giuseppe I am going to try to build a portable wire antenna for SOTA work when I hike in the mountains.  I ordered one from the QRP Guys website and am going try it out to see how it works.  I’ll let you know.  It would be easy to put up and then take down as needed.  My CWOps instructor uses a chalk line holder to hold his wire.  He can pull out enough length for the band he is using and then wind it all back up when he’s done.  He just marks the wire for each band so he knows how much to pull out.  I’m building a second U3S and it was way under powered.  You should get at least 200 milliwatts.  I missed soldering a pin on the synth module and that’s why my power output was low.  Also it’s important to get the calibration right.  Otherwise you won’t get any spots.  I use the GPS and start with a large step of 50 and then drop it down to 1 once it stops making adjustments.  Then the spots start showing up!  The suggestions others offered on my post were invaluable.  Last, my great grandfather came to America from Lucca, Sicula in the late 1800’s.  I still have relatives there but have never been to visit.  Maybe some day.

73 Brad / K0WET


Re: Si5351A blown (IC1) QCX transceiver.

William Jenrick
 

Yea, but then if I buy another QCX kit and wind the "TOROID FROM HELL" and the chip fails again, then where am I.....? Besides It is not the mini I have, but the maxi....

On Wed, Feb 24, 2021 at 11:27 PM Ian VA7ITM <ian.mcalpine@...> wrote:
when replacing an Si5351A chip please be sure to purchase Si5351A-B-GT or Si5351A-B-GTR. Do not be tempted to buy a part number such as Si5351A-Bxxxxx-GT [R]
Wait... what?! C**p! Well that explains everything. Problem now is that in North America Digikey, Mouser, Arrow, RS, etc have no stock and a lead time of 20+ weeks! The one unofficial supplier that I did find was charging $18 for delivery...

... and alas the SI5351A is not available from QRP Labs shop either.

There's a lesson to be learned here... if you frazzle your Mini don't even bother trying to repair the SMD devices. By the time you've bought new SMD devices, paid for shipping and spent $20 on ChipQuik, you could have bought a new QCX mini main board with all components from QRP Labs for only $40!!



--
William Jenrick 


Re: Si5351A blown (IC1) QCX transceiver.

Ian VA7ITM
 

when replacing an Si5351A chip please be sure to purchase Si5351A-B-GT or Si5351A-B-GTR. Do not be tempted to buy a part number such as Si5351A-Bxxxxx-GT [R]
Wait... what?! C**p! Well that explains everything. Problem now is that in North America Digikey, Mouser, Arrow, RS, etc have no stock and a lead time of 20+ weeks! The one unofficial supplier that I did find was charging $18 for delivery...

... and alas the SI5351A is not available from QRP Labs shop either.

There's a lesson to be learned here... if you frazzle your Mini don't even bother trying to repair the SMD devices. By the time you've bought new SMD devices, paid for shipping and spent $20 on ChipQuik, you could have bought a new QCX mini main board with all components from QRP Labs for only $40!!


Re: QCX+ Audio Eventually Fades Away

Rachael Sanders
 

I've always found Hans kits great......the documentation absolutely spot on and second to none with nothing left to misunderstand....if I read it properly.
IMHO the QCX mini kit is just amazing with so much packed into a small space and on both sides of the pcb and you buy it for those reason; small size, low weight, lower current consumption and so on. Personally I'd be happy to add those surface mount components myself but that's another story. I particularly love the way the controls pcb sits within the other pcb. Each time I see that it makes me smile. If you want something harping back to the past, the 'good old days' buy the parts to build a Paraset radio. You'll be happier with the space between, the larger components, and of course ultimately the glow of the valves. Now that's really something! 

With reference to your comments:
As they say in Yorkshire where I live "There's n'owt sa queer as folk!" and "All the world's queer save me'n' thee, 'n' tha's a bit odd"

I presume you mean an iambic key.....just a guess. 


Re: tuners for experimental antennas and the QCX

namerati@...
 

On Wed, Feb 24, 2021 at 02:34:56PM -0800, ajparent1/KB1GMX wrote:
I have a Elecraft T1 and it can and has tune most everything thrown at it
including an end fed half wave (maybe 2500 ohms).    I've joked it can
tune a nail on 80m.

Manual for T1 says 10:1 range, less on 160 and 6M.  So that 5-500 but
that statement is for pure resistive.  An L tuner like that can absorb some
reactive loads making range look greater.

The other autotuners are unknown to me.

Manual tuners Z,T, L and Pi all work and most can handle most everything if
they are adjustable enough.  I've built all of them and they are trivial simple.
Generally they can be very compact for QRP power levels. I generally use
Z for flexibility as one design can do high and low balanced loads easily,
or L with tapped or variable inductor as it is simple.
Thanks for the first-hand insights!

Can you compare the tuning range of the Z-match with your T1, based on your experience?

(that was the original question, and we still haven't gotten it resolved decisively one way or the other!)


Re: Si5351A blown (IC1) QCX transceiver.

William Jenrick
 

Yes, I bought 5 of them for $.89/each but really don't know which is pin 1. The original one has a dot. So how does that correspond to the one pictured?

On Wed, Feb 24, 2021 at 9:50 PM Hans Summers <hans.summers@...> wrote:
Hi all

Another reminder, just in case it helps anyone: when replacing an Si5351A chip please be sure to purchase Si5351A-B-GT or Si5351A-B-GTR (Matt's appears to be correct). Do not be tempted to buy a part number such as Si5351A-Bxxxxx-GT [R] because the xxxxx indicates it is a customized chip for a particular customer's requirements; these typically operate on I2C bus addresses other than 0x60. These non-standard chips will NOT work in QRP Labs kits. 

73 Hans G0UPL
http://qrp-labs.com

On Thu, Feb 25, 2021 at 8:03 AM Matt Burge via groups.io <matt24512=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi William, i am about to... i have a new chip and i intend to use solder paste & a heat gun... i have purchased an SMD practice board.. i was going to just use the soldering iron method 
but that chip is sooooo dam tiny... its costing a little more to get the equipment together but i am enjoying the challenge.. lol I overheated my chip while searching for another fault to do with the controls board.. good luck 👍



--
William Jenrick 


Re: Si5351A blown (IC1) QCX transceiver.

William Jenrick
 

Hot air station(?). Wow! Things have really got HI-tec in the last 60 years since I first got my general class license at age 15.  Do the math, I am 75.
Just now getting back into ham radio for something to do since I retired and am looking forward to renewing my morse code skills. I still have my gold plated Vibroplex bug from 60 years ago, but went ahead and bought a paddle since it appears the way to go nowadays....Nothing sacred anymore(?)....

On Wed, Feb 24, 2021 at 10:16 PM Gwen Patton <ardrhi@...> wrote:
I splurged and got myself a hot air station. They aren't tremendously expensive. I think I paid about $65 for mine.

When doing SMT work, I have either an iExtruder solder paste dispenser or a tiny manual dispenser I got from Tindie. Then I use syringe-able solder paste and apply to the pads, carefully put the chip onto the pads with a pair of tweezers (I use a lighted magnifier or a LCD microscope), and heat it with the hot air station. When the solder melts, surface tension will practically SUCK the chip into alignment. Let cool, then clean off the flux that was in the solder paste with isopropyl and a swab. I use disposable foam swabs for electronics work, as they don't leave little wisps of cotton fiber everywhere. They get torn up on the board, but don't leave bits for the most part.

If you get a hot air station, removing a chip is easy. Apply some flux (I use Amtech NC-559-V2-TF Tacky Flux in a syringe), then heat the part while holding it with tweezers. When the solder melts, lift the chip off. Then clean up the pads with solder wick and your iron, and clean the board. Then you can apply fresh solder paste to the pads, and hot air solder the new chip in place.

I get the tacky flux from Rossmann Group in New York, a certified Amtech dealer. It's really good flux. I mostly use that for soldering iron work. https://store.rossmanngroup.com/amtech-nc-559-v2-30-cc-16160.html
I get either MG Chemicals T3 solder paste for larger pads, or Chip Quik T5 solder paste for really tiny pads. The really small syringe applicator I have is for the T5. When working with paste, that number matters. The smaller the number, the larger a syringe needle you need for it to flow properly.

https://www.i-extruder.com/en/
https://www.tindie.com/products/avandalen/disper-micro-dot-solder-paste-syringe-dispenser/
Chip Quik T5: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D2I88PG/
MG T3: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M1RC0YY

I have 3 soldering irons. A TS-100 with an ILS tip  for fine work, a cheap but temp controlled mains iron from Banggood for connectors, PCB enclosures, and large heat sinks, and a Dremel Versa-Tip butane iron for outdoor work.

TS100: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XBFTKMY
ILS Tip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072J75BRT/
https://www.banggood.com/MUSTOOL-MT883-80W-Electric-Solder-Iron-Station-Adjustable-Temperature-180-480-or-392-896-Auto-Sleeping-110V-or-220V-EU-or-US-or-UK-Plug-Option-p-1553736.html
WEP/Kohree Hot Air Station: https://www.amazon.com/Kohree-Rework-Station-Solder-Digital/dp/B00JVM3WBC  (There's a bunch of these under different names. The one I bought is no longer on the site.)

I also have a ReFlowR programmable soldering hotplate that I've never actually used. Maybe someday I'll find an actual need for the thing. Not worth posting a link, it's no longer being made.

73,
Gwen, NG3P



--
William Jenrick 


Re: Si5351A blown (IC1) QCX transceiver.

Gwen Patton
 

I splurged and got myself a hot air station. They aren't tremendously expensive. I think I paid about $65 for mine.

When doing SMT work, I have either an iExtruder solder paste dispenser or a tiny manual dispenser I got from Tindie. Then I use syringe-able solder paste and apply to the pads, carefully put the chip onto the pads with a pair of tweezers (I use a lighted magnifier or a LCD microscope), and heat it with the hot air station. When the solder melts, surface tension will practically SUCK the chip into alignment. Let cool, then clean off the flux that was in the solder paste with isopropyl and a swab. I use disposable foam swabs for electronics work, as they don't leave little wisps of cotton fiber everywhere. They get torn up on the board, but don't leave bits for the most part.

If you get a hot air station, removing a chip is easy. Apply some flux (I use Amtech NC-559-V2-TF Tacky Flux in a syringe), then heat the part while holding it with tweezers. When the solder melts, lift the chip off. Then clean up the pads with solder wick and your iron, and clean the board. Then you can apply fresh solder paste to the pads, and hot air solder the new chip in place.

I get the tacky flux from Rossmann Group in New York, a certified Amtech dealer. It's really good flux. I mostly use that for soldering iron work. https://store.rossmanngroup.com/amtech-nc-559-v2-30-cc-16160.html
I get either MG Chemicals T3 solder paste for larger pads, or Chip Quik T5 solder paste for really tiny pads. The really small syringe applicator I have is for the T5. When working with paste, that number matters. The smaller the number, the larger a syringe needle you need for it to flow properly.

https://www.i-extruder.com/en/
https://www.tindie.com/products/avandalen/disper-micro-dot-solder-paste-syringe-dispenser/
Chip Quik T5: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D2I88PG/
MG T3: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M1RC0YY

I have 3 soldering irons. A TS-100 with an ILS tip  for fine work, a cheap but temp controlled mains iron from Banggood for connectors, PCB enclosures, and large heat sinks, and a Dremel Versa-Tip butane iron for outdoor work.

TS100: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XBFTKMY
ILS Tip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072J75BRT/
https://www.banggood.com/MUSTOOL-MT883-80W-Electric-Solder-Iron-Station-Adjustable-Temperature-180-480-or-392-896-Auto-Sleeping-110V-or-220V-EU-or-US-or-UK-Plug-Option-p-1553736.html
WEP/Kohree Hot Air Station: https://www.amazon.com/Kohree-Rework-Station-Solder-Digital/dp/B00JVM3WBC  (There's a bunch of these under different names. The one I bought is no longer on the site.)

I also have a ReFlowR programmable soldering hotplate that I've never actually used. Maybe someday I'll find an actual need for the thing. Not worth posting a link, it's no longer being made.

73,
Gwen, NG3P


Re: qcx20 #20m mini #20m

Paul AI4EE
 

Ah!

On 2/25/2021 12:59 AM, Hans Summers wrote:
Hi Paul

Don is referring to a Rev 2 PCB, with the 78M05 voltage regulator; D33, C21 and C22 were moved slightly to make space for the bigger regulator, and the manual has not yet been updated for Rev 2. 

73 Hans G0UPL
http://qrp-labs.com

On Thu, Feb 25, 2021 at 8:54 AM Paul AI4EE <nadie1943@...> wrote:

The manual, including the pictures of the construction, both show vertical mounting. I see no disagreement with the board. Look closely.


On 2/25/2021 12:37 AM, Don Blachura via groups.io wrote:
I am starting the build for the qcx-mini (20 meters). Noticed that the main board is different then the manual.
c21 and c22 are both vertical and so is d33.
Am I on the rite track following the markings on the main board?

Don...w2xb

Sorry if I missed the mod.


















Re: qcx20 #20m mini #20m

Hans Summers
 

Hi Paul

Don is referring to a Rev 2 PCB, with the 78M05 voltage regulator; D33, C21 and C22 were moved slightly to make space for the bigger regulator, and the manual has not yet been updated for Rev 2. 

73 Hans G0UPL
http://qrp-labs.com

On Thu, Feb 25, 2021 at 8:54 AM Paul AI4EE <nadie1943@...> wrote:

The manual, including the pictures of the construction, both show vertical mounting. I see no disagreement with the board. Look closely.


On 2/25/2021 12:37 AM, Don Blachura via groups.io wrote:
I am starting the build for the qcx-mini (20 meters). Noticed that the main board is different then the manual.
c21 and c22 are both vertical and so is d33.
Am I on the rite track following the markings on the main board?

Don...w2xb

Sorry if I missed the mod.


















Re: qcx20 #20m mini #20m

Hans Summers
 

Hi Don

I'm sorry, I have been so busy so far, I have not had a chance to update the manual... 

Yes, please follow the markings on the board. D33, C21 and C22 were all moved slightly to make room for the larger 78M05 voltage regulator (larger than the previous AMS1117). 

Also please note that step 3.42, adding a 10uF electrolytic or tantalum capacitor in parallel with C38, is NOT required nor recommended on Rev 2 boards. The existing C38 is correctly rated and is perfectly adequate. 

I have not had a chance yet to update the manual but I have just now added a prominent note in red font, to the QCX-mini web page see http://qrp-labs.com/qcxmini

73 Hans G0UPL
http://qrp-labs.com

On Thu, Feb 25, 2021 at 8:37 AM Don Blachura via groups.io <haircutter=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:
I am starting the build for the qcx-mini (20 meters). Noticed that the main board is different then the manual.
c21 and c22 are both vertical and so is d33.
Am I on the rite track following the markings on the main board?

Don...w2xb

Sorry if I missed the mod.


















Re: qcx20 #20m mini #20m

Paul AI4EE
 

The manual, including the pictures of the construction, both show vertical mounting. I see no disagreement with the board. Look closely.


On 2/25/2021 12:37 AM, Don Blachura via groups.io wrote:
I am starting the build for the qcx-mini (20 meters). Noticed that the main board is different then the manual.
c21 and c22 are both vertical and so is d33.
Am I on the rite track following the markings on the main board?

Don...w2xb

Sorry if I missed the mod.


















Re: Si5351A blown (IC1) QCX transceiver.

Hans Summers
 

Hi all

Another reminder, just in case it helps anyone: when replacing an Si5351A chip please be sure to purchase Si5351A-B-GT or Si5351A-B-GTR (Matt's appears to be correct). Do not be tempted to buy a part number such as Si5351A-Bxxxxx-GT [R] because the xxxxx indicates it is a customized chip for a particular customer's requirements; these typically operate on I2C bus addresses other than 0x60. These non-standard chips will NOT work in QRP Labs kits. 

73 Hans G0UPL
http://qrp-labs.com

On Thu, Feb 25, 2021 at 8:03 AM Matt Burge via groups.io <matt24512=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi William, i am about to... i have a new chip and i intend to use solder paste & a heat gun... i have purchased an SMD practice board.. i was going to just use the soldering iron method 
but that chip is sooooo dam tiny... its costing a little more to get the equipment together but i am enjoying the challenge.. lol I overheated my chip while searching for another fault to do with the controls board.. good luck 👍


Re: #u3s #troubleshooting No Spots / not sure transmitting #u3s #troubleshooting #help #lpf

Brad G
 

Giuseppe I am going to try to build a portable wire antenna for SOTA work when I hike in the mountains.  I ordered one from the QRP Guys website and am going try it out to see how it works.  I’ll let you know.  It would be easy to put up and then take down as needed.  My CWOps instructor uses a chalk line holder to hold his wire.  He can pull out enough length for the band he is using and then wind it all back up when he’s done.  He just marks the wire for each band so he knows how much to pull out.  I’m building a second U3S and it was way under powered.  You should get at least 200 milliwatts.  I missed soldering a pin on the synth module and that’s why my power output was low.  Also it’s important to get the calibration right.  Otherwise you won’t get any spots.  I use the GPS and start with a large step of 50 and then drop it down to 1 once it stops making adjustments.  Then the spots start showing up!  The suggestions others offered on my post were invaluable.  Last, my great grandfather came to America from Lucca, Sicula in the late 1800’s.  I still have relatives there but have never been to visit.  Maybe some day.

73 Brad / K0WET


qcx20 #20m mini #20m

Don Blachura
 

I am starting the build for the qcx-mini (20 meters). Noticed that the main board is different then the manual.
c21 and c22 are both vertical and so is d33.
Am I on the rite track following the markings on the main board?

Don...w2xb

Sorry if I missed the mod.


















Re: Si5351A blown (IC1) QCX transceiver.

Matt Burge <matt24512@...>
 

Hi William, i am about to... i have a new chip and i intend to use solder paste & a heat gun... i have purchased an SMD practice board.. i was going to just use the soldering iron method 
but that chip is sooooo dam tiny... its costing a little more to get the equipment together but i am enjoying the challenge.. lol I overheated my chip while searching for another fault to do with the controls board.. good luck 👍


Re: New QCX Mini finally here

Hans Summers
 

Thanks William, Jim

Good luck with the builds!

All the batch 2 boards have been through my test jig (YouTube video filming still pending), and passed 21 tests with results all within the defined ranges. 

The number hand-written on the bag label isn't really a serial number, it's just a batch test number. I have all the test results filed individually in a database, indexed by this number; just in case if anyone ever has any problems in future, I'll be able to retrieve their specific test result. 

That could inform additions or modifications to the 21 test cases, or perhaps changes to the pass/fail criteria. I'm pretty sure that won't happen, but I wasn't taking any chances, I didn't want to leave any stone unturned in order to make sure none of the batch #1 issues are ever seen in batch #2.

73 Hans G0UPL 

On Thu, Feb 25, 2021, 07:18 k6whp <k6whp@...> wrote:
Similar report per Hans' status. 

My Mini shipped from Turkey on 12 Feb 2021 and arrived in DM13ar on 24 Feb 2021 at 1500 PST via Fedex. It is (I believe) serial number 175 and possessed the treasured "QC Passed" sticker.

Looking forward to the build and am supremely grateful to Hans for the extra steps he took to build the QC jig and perform the tests. As with my previous QCX variants, I am astounded at the care and genius that went into this -- especially for the price.

Thank you, Hans!   
--
William, k6whp
--------------------
"Cheer up, things could get worse. So I cheered up and things got worse."

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