Date   

Re: I forget...ERROR: Si5351A what causes this

Johannes M. Stosch <jmstosch@...>
 

Had the same issue. Please post what you find out


Re: HELP : Ultimate 3s power output lost after increasing from 100mw to 200mw on 20M

N3MNT
 

I would give it some more time before I start digging into things.  The bands are very strange recently.  Try mid day for best 20M prop.


Re: Iambic CW?

Ed Kwik
 

check this out.
Ed
AB8DF


Re: HELP : Ultimate 3s power output lost after increasing from 100mw to 200mw on 20M

Roger Hill
 

Sorry. Brain fart. Ignore me.

Roger

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Roger Hill
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On 2021-02-19 11:51, Roger Hill wrote:

Hi John

14097100 is the very bottom edge of the WSPR band for 20m. Maybe go up 50Hz to 14097150 to be sure your transmissions are nearer the centre of the band.


73

Roger

8P6RX

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Roger Hill
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On 2021-02-19 11:44, John C Sauer via groups.io wrote:

Humm, interesting. So, if I read this correctly this field only notifies spotters of the power output of the wspr transmitter.  I thought it actually changed the power output.   The time is supplied by the gps’ receiver so that is not the problem. I did not change the smith freq, it is still set to 014,197,100 and that is correct for 20M . The only setting I changed was the power setting, and if that is for reference only. That  means I have a problem elsewhere.  I will recheck everything and see what I can find, Thank you all for the clarification and recommendations.
73
john / kc3jcs 


Re: HELP : Ultimate 3s power output lost after increasing from 100mw to 200mw on 20M

Roger Hill
 

Hi John

14097100 is the very bottom edge of the WSPR band for 20m. Maybe go up 50Hz to 14097150 to be sure your transmissions are nearer the centre of the band.


73

Roger

8P6RX

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***************************
Roger Hill
***************************


On 2021-02-19 11:44, John C Sauer via groups.io wrote:

Humm, interesting. So, if I read this correctly this field only notifies spotters of the power output of the wspr transmitter.  I thought it actually changed the power output.   The time is supplied by the gps’ receiver so that is not the problem. I did not change the smith freq, it is still set to 014,197,100 and that is correct for 20M . The only setting I changed was the power setting, and if that is for reference only. That  means I have a problem elsewhere.  I will recheck everything and see what I can find, Thank you all for the clarification and recommendations.
73
john / kc3jcs 


Re: Update Firmware on ATmega328 without using the KIT Board?

N3MNT
 

I have been using this on all my QRP-Labs kits with no issues.  This plus the GUI of averdudess is simple and quick.
https://www.ebay.com/p/1958430590


Re: HELP : Ultimate 3s power output lost after increasing from 100mw to 200mw on 20M

John C Sauer
 

Humm, interesting. So, if I read this correctly this field only notifies spotters of the power output of the wspr transmitter.  I thought it actually changed the power output.   The time is supplied by the gps’ receiver so that is not the problem. I did not change the smith freq, it is still set to 014,197,100 and that is correct for 20M . The only setting I changed was the power setting, and if that is for reference only. That  means I have a problem elsewhere.  I will recheck everything and see what I can find, Thank you all for the clarification and recommendations.
73
john / kc3jcs 


Re: Update Firmware on ATmega328 without using the KIT Board?

Colin Evans M1BUU
 

OK then. You could buy the Adafruit programmer kit, but it would still involve a bit of construction.

"Standalone AVR ISP Programmer Shield Kit - includes blank chip! ID: 462 - $17.50 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits" https://www.adafruit.com/product/462

73, Colin, M1BUU


Re: Update Firmware on ATmega328 without using the KIT Board?

Colin Evans M1BUU
 

I don't really understand the question fully.

If you're upgrading a kit's ATmega328 then surely you have to open up the enclosure either way? You'd have to remove the chip from the socket to use a stand alone programmer or use the in circuit programming header with the chip in place.

An Arduino can be used easily for either method. I used an Arduino Uno for upgrading my QCX firmware. If you were so inclined, there would be nothing to stop you building a dedicated programming interface with ZIF socket and an Arduino - I guess even a Nano or Micro would even work. You'd still have to remove the original chip from the project though or have a chip that's sourced from QRP Labs.

I built a little programmer to upgrade my QRSS transmitter firmware on a bread board.

Come to think of it, my little Arduino Uno has been a very useful thing to have :-)

73, Colin
M1BUU

On Fri, 19 Feb 2021, 14:47 ke9uw, <c-hawley@...> wrote:
I'm thinking it would be convenient to update the microcontroller on a standalone board instead of opening up the kit enclosure and plugging into the six pin header. What is a good board to buy for this. I guess I could just build up any kit board and update the different microcontrollers with their appropriate hex file.
But I'm looking for a programming board with the quick release socket. 


Re: Update Firmware on ATmega328 without using the KIT Board?

ke9uw
 

I have extra chips I bought from Hans, just thought I'd program them to the latest.


Re: Iambic CW?

Michael N6MST
 

On Fri, Feb 19, 2021 at 06:36 AM, R. Tyson wrote:
You would think that iambic keying would be faster but apparently not so.
Squeeze-keying has the reputation (for reasons unknown to me) of being faster, more efficient, easier, better, etc. than single-lever keying. It is shown over and over that is not typically the case due to errors made while squeezing levers together. The timing of pressing levers is crucial either way, but with squeeze-keying the timing of releasing paddles is much more crucial and that leads to more mistakes.

Don't get me wrong, there are some EXCELLENT "squeezers" out there, most would put me to shame with both paddles tied behind their back, but I believe average humans generally do better with single-lever paddles.


Update Firmware on ATmega328 without using the KIT Board?

ke9uw
 

I'm thinking it would be convenient to update the microcontroller on a standalone board instead of opening up the kit enclosure and plugging into the six pin header. What is a good board to buy for this. I guess I could just build up any kit board and update the different microcontrollers with their appropriate hex file.
But I'm looking for a programming board with the quick release socket. 


Re: Iambic CW?

R. Tyson
 

I have been using my straight key a lot lately, just because I enjoy it. Using a twin paddle I am both a slapper and holder. Hold on for a character with several consecutive dits or dahs and slap it about for anything else. I could persevere and learn to use squeeze keying but find other things more worthy of my time at the moment.

Somewhere I came across a mention that those who take part in speed contests are switching to single lever paddles as they can go faster with them. You would think that iambic keying would be faster but apparently not so.

Reg        G4NFR


Re: Latest QCX-mini pcb rev.2 and C38 mod #c38 #qcxmini #manual #mods #pcbversion

Mont Pierce KM6WT
 

On Fri, Feb 19, 2021 at 03:54 AM, Hans Summers wrote:
The only changes to the Rev 2 PCB are the change of voltage regulator to 78M05; and moving some components in the immediate area to make space for it (as 78M05 is larger than AMS1117). 
You forgot to mention, also a different, more reliable, PCB Fab House.  :)  :)  :)


Great Service Hans !!!   Thanks !!!
Mont - km6wt


Re: 50W Amp component operating temps...

R. Tyson
 

On Thu, Feb 18, 2021 at 08:48 PM, Bill Cromwell wrote:
Urban myths about switch mode power supplies have some truth to them. There are some that spew "digital hash" everywhere. And some that don't. Some that put out a little.
Hi Bill,

That was the point I was hoping to make...  if you have one try it.  Some are better than others. If it doesn't work then at least it was tried and there is the option of addressing the problem, or deciding not to use it. I have found the one's I tried to be O.K. The HP laptop power brick has plenty of metal screening under the plastic case. These are older units and newer versions may not be built the same. I have seen the "urban myth" on different groups....  they have read or seen or heard about something and repeat it without ever trying it themselves.

Just as an aside.....  I have found some very good videos on YouTube around radio fault finding and repair. A lot of interesting stuff and some invaluable tips.  Anyone interested could start off with just a couple.

Mr Carlson's lab        and      The Radio Shop.

Problem is... watch these and you will start itching to get hold of some old, faulty gear and have a go at it.

Reg                           G4NFR


Re: Latest QCX-mini pcb rev.2 and C38 mod #c38 #qcxmini #manual #mods #pcbversion

jmh6@...
 

Hi All :),

WOW! I am impressed.

On Fri, 19 Feb 2021, Hans Summers wrote:

Hi John
Whatever smokes, it won't be that regulator :-D 
And remember, all Rev 2 boards have been through my super-duper test jig and passed its 21 tests. All 1,000 boards. Yes the test jig really did survive that beating!
73 Hans G0UPL
http://qrp-labs.com
On Fri, Feb 19, 2021 at 3:04 PM <john@g3ztu.com> wrote:
Hi Hans,
that was quick!  Thanks for getting back, saves me a fiddly job.
Others reaching the same point may see this thread and know they can skip the mod.
I've enjoyed the build, now girding my loins for the smoke test!
All the best, and thank you!
John
G3ZTU


Re: Latest QCX-mini pcb rev.2 and C38 mod #c38 #qcxmini #manual #mods #pcbversion

Hans Summers
 

Hi John

Whatever smokes, it won't be that regulator :-D 

And remember, all Rev 2 boards have been through my super-duper test jig and passed its 21 tests. All 1,000 boards. Yes the test jig really did survive that beating!

73 Hans G0UPL

On Fri, Feb 19, 2021 at 3:04 PM <john@...> wrote:
Hi Hans,
that was quick!  Thanks for getting back, saves me a fiddly job.
Others reaching the same point may see this thread and know they can skip the mod.
I've enjoyed the build, now girding my loins for the smoke test!
All the best, and thank you!
John
G3ZTU


Re: Iambic CW?

Peter GM0EUL
 

I've been thinking about this since last night and just spent about 20 mins when I should be working keying and trying to work out what I'm actually doing.  I'm happy with most sorts of keys but my first choice for everyday cw is a mode B iambic paddle.  I think I have a hybrid technique that is at least partly iambic.  I keep the squeeze on the paddle that is doing the most work in the character and dib the other one to slot in the opposite element as needed.   I'm right-handed and key with my right hand but I have my paddle reversed so the dah is right thumb, dit is index finger.  So if I'm sending CQ I keep the pressure on the dah paddle and tap the dit paddle to insert the dits as necessary.  C is thumb on all the time.  dib the finger paddle during the fifst dah to get dah di dah.  Dib the finger paddle again during the second dah and let go of both paddles simultaneously to get dahdidahdit.  pause then thumb on for some more dah, dib the dit during the second dah and let go both paddles as soon as the final dah starts.  I guess its a sort of dah-led iambic.  For me mode A can cause letters to miss their last element too often but that's just a human interface and muscle memory thing to do with what I'm used to.  I think I tend to leave fractionally too long between letters to combat a fear of running the letters together.  As a member of CWops I don't want to be caught on the air sending bad code- which I do if I get flustered because I find head-sending actually a lot harder than head-copying.  I can do hello, thanks for the call my name is peter etc automatically but I've just tried sending "my car has an intermittent abs fail light on the dash but i think it is just a bad wheel speed sensor"  Its virtually impossible to get through "intermittent" without either looking or coming to a dead stop and sending letter by letter spelling it out in my head each time and working out what the morse character is for the letter I'm trying to think of. 

Sorry incoherent rambling, back to work and then some more head-sending practice.

73
 
Peter GM0EUL

CWops 1899. FISTS 18888, SKCC 16307T, GQRP 15056



Virus-free. www.avg.com


On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 at 11:34, Daniel Conklin <danconklin2@...> wrote:
I started off with a straight key and was happy to learn iambic after I got my General ticket. However, it felt lifeless, and without personality to me, so I went back to mostly straight key, until I got my cootie. Now I think I will never go back to any electronic keyer.
--
73, Dan - W2DLC


Re: Latest QCX-mini pcb rev.2 and C38 mod #c38 #qcxmini #manual #mods #pcbversion

john@...
 

Hi Hans,
that was quick!  Thanks for getting back, saves me a fiddly job.
Others reaching the same point may see this thread and know they can skip the mod.
I've enjoyed the build, now girding my loins for the smoke test!
All the best, and thank you!
John
G3ZTU


Re: Latest QCX-mini pcb rev.2 and C38 mod #c38 #qcxmini #manual #mods #pcbversion

Hans Summers
 

Hi John

There is no need for the capacitor in Rev 2. No additional 10uF capacitor in Rev 2 (with the 78M05 regulator). I have not yet been able to update the manual.

The only changes to the Rev 2 PCB are the change of voltage regulator to 78M05; and moving some components in the immediate area to make space for it (as 78M05 is larger than AMS1117). 

73 Hans G0UPL
http://qrp-labs.com

On Fri, Feb 19, 2021 at 2:48 PM <john@...> wrote:
Hello all,
I've almost completed the build of a latest batch QCX-mini.
I've followed the assembly instructions v1.05 (latest rev?) to the point where I should add the additional capacitor C38, but realised the new pcb layout v2 has a new regulator chip, and fitting the additional electrolytic as detailed would now achieve nothing, because the regulator pinout has changed and the lead of the diode and adjacent regulator pin pad are actually the same node electrically.  I could find an alternative point to earth the capacitor, e.g. the heatsink tab of the regulator, but since the regulator is now different, is it still necessary to perform the modification?
Has anyone else got this far with the latest batch of rev.2 pcbs?
It's gone well so far, I haven't spotted any other changes on the rev.2 board until now.
John G3ZTU

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