Date   

Re: FOR SALE: QCX-40 KIT

Ed - K9EW
 

The QCX-40 has been spoken for.

-ed, k9ew

On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 1:03 PM Ed - K9EW <k9ew57@...> wrote:
Half the fun is in the building, and this QCX-40 is still an unopened bag of parts.

I got it for a friend of mine who used to like to build, but he became a Silent Key before I could give it to him.

Next day shipping anywhere in conus for $50.

image.png

73,
ed - k9ew


CAT on QCX problems

Giulio Paris
 

Good morning
I have a QCX board 4 and I thought to take advantage of the CAT that has been added. I added the suggested components (the two resistors and the diode) and I used the two free pins in the center of the LCD connector on the PCB. I took the ground on the stocking of the antenna's BNC connector. As a TTL RS232 adapter I used an Arduino to which I removed the ATMEGA328. As software I am using QARTEST. Typing a frequency on QARTEST the QCX does not respond, that is, it does not change the frequency.
I wanted some advice from the people who made the change. The software is the TI-05

--
IZ0FVD Giulio


Re: QCX+ not working ….HELP!!!

Jelle
 

Hi Paul,

First of all, you are doing a good job. Using the new jumper options the QCX+ now offers. I do believe you have stumbled on an issue with JP7. I have posted this as a separate topic to the group.

Regarding SMD components, I think it is for most of us always a fear it may be broken. But from reading between the lines on the group, it is hardly ever the case. I did had at one stage a little bit of clipped wire debris stuck between the pads. I was lucky it didn't break to chip. Possibly, have a look with a magnifying glass or use a mobile phone camera to reassure yourself. Please carry on with the job you are doing. I will follow your progress.

Good luck, Jelle


OCX+ JP7 Board trace correction? #mods

Jelle
 

An earlier posting with receiver signal trace brought the possible issue with JP7 to my attention. Paul m0bmn could not find the usual JP connection line to cut and isolate JP7 connection 1 from 2.

I think the following is the issue (please see attached file):

  • The blue marked link is missing (this will be the isolation cut that needs to be made);
  • The red is re-routed to JP7 - 2 (signal from Quadrature Sampling Detector and pre-amp circuits to I channel);
  • The black cut lines indicate incorrect traces, and need to be removed.

Could someone else please have a look and possibly confirm my findings?

Many thanks, Jelle


Re: QCX+ not working ….HELP!!!

m0bmn
 

Well thanks everyone who as answered, ok this is what i have found after a night of playing with it.
Yes the QCX is set for the 25Mhz TXCO, ,I have checked the winding on T1 all seem ok and so are the voltages there. with the built in test for adjusting the bandpass i find a increase in noise but no tone. all the while i have a strong audio pulsing sound , rather like motor boating but its not that, its very regular, almost like a polling clock signal???
i have started working from the audio output and working back, i disconnected the audio pot (Volume pot) and injected audio into the stage following the volume control and all was good, no extra noise, i reconnected the volume control and my friend the pulse was back, i move up stream and disconnect the input to the filter section (JP 11) and that lost the pulse noise, now just a light hiss as you would expect.  
i reconnected the input to the filter and the noise was back so i moved more up stream, this time i disconnected JP9 and JP10 , no noise, reconnect JP10 and all still good, tried JP9 and its back again so it seems to be one side of the phase network, i was going to break into the input to this side but cant see how to cut the link  for JP7 , thats the input to that side, all the other link pads have a small track between them but i can see any track between JP7?? 
anyone  see how to break that link?? or any other ideas, i hope its not the SMD chip thats faulty! 
thanks for any advice
Paul M0BMN


Re: FOR SALE: QCX-40 KIT

Ed - K9EW
 

It's yours, Paul.

You can pay me by PayPal (edworst@...), and I'll ship it tomorrow.

Should I ship it to your QRZ address, or somewhere else?

73,
ed - k9ew

On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 3:21 PM K2DB Paul Mackanos <paul.mackanos@...> wrote:
I'll take it if it's still available

On Thu, Jul 16, 2020, 2:04 PM Ed - K9EW <k9ew57@...> wrote:
Half the fun is in the building, and this QCX-40 is still an unopened bag of parts.

I got it for a friend of mine who used to like to build, but he became a Silent Key before I could give it to him.

Next day shipping anywhere in conus for $50.

image.png

73,
ed - k9ew


Re: Broken L4 Toroid- can it be glued? #parts #problem

geoff M0ORE
 

Ferrite cores and iron dust cores are not the same material. Ferrite cores are not normally coated with a colour, iron dust are coated with a colour to show the mix.

On 16/07/2020 18:07, Jon Reck W8REA wrote:
Recently I broke a grey ferrite  toroid core putting together my U3S kit. I glued it back together with Locktite Ultra Gel superglue. The repair seemed strong and the kit worked fine.

Jon W8REA


QCX+ Is alive!

l_warren@...
 

20 M QCX+ with TCXO and Case completed without any problems or issues.  Initial alignment when per manual, receives extremely well, better than my original QCX.  Run 4-5 hours on WSPR, into 20M OCF ant, located 5 feet inside plastic fence along back yard (HOA super stealth).  Zero drift, tons of contacts.  On TX, power supply showed 12V=615mA, 13.8V=726mA.  Watts Out = 12V, 3.41, and on 13.8V, 5.3 (into Ant). Case fit great. Pic showing receiving and decode.

73, Lamar KG7SCU


Re: FOR SALE: QCX-40 KIT

K2DB Paul Mackanos
 

I'll take it if it's still available


On Thu, Jul 16, 2020, 2:04 PM Ed - K9EW <k9ew57@...> wrote:
Half the fun is in the building, and this QCX-40 is still an unopened bag of parts.

I got it for a friend of mine who used to like to build, but he became a Silent Key before I could give it to him.

Next day shipping anywhere in conus for $50.

image.png

73,
ed - k9ew


Re: FOR SALE: QCX-40 KIT

Paul AI4EE
 

I will take it if it's still available.


On 7/16/2020 2:03 PM, Ed - K9EW wrote:
Half the fun is in the building, and this QCX-40 is still an unopened bag of parts.

I got it for a friend of mine who used to like to build, but he became a Silent Key before I could give it to him.

Next day shipping anywhere in conus for $50.

image.png

73,
ed - k9ew


Re: Broken L4 Toroid- can it be glued? #parts #problem

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

My experience and based on measurement is NO.

Adding even a small air gap (or glue) lowers the effective magnetic 
value (mu) and for some cases it will work but others it may be far off. 
As part of a tuned circuit (class E final) it will likely need more turns to
be correct no way to predict how many.

If it works fine, but I would not.

Allison
-------------------------------
Please reply on list so we can share.
No private email, it goes to a bit bucket due address harvesting


Re: Broken L4 Toroid- can it be glued? #parts #problem

Arv Evans
 

Brian

Go for it!  If there is any effect the inductance might be a tiny bit higher, 
but probably not enough to make any difference.  At least gluing the core 
back together will allow you to continue your build.  

You are correct that most toroid cores are just powdered metal held 
together with glue.  The DC resistance across a core itself will measure very 
high because each metal particle is insulated from its neighbor by the glue.

Arv
_._


On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 10:53 AM Brian Mathews <hotelbroker@...> wrote:
Hello friends, finally had time yesterday to get started on my 30M QCX+ and everything was going great!!  This morning I got to step 3.49 and started winding L4... didn't seem like I was putting much pressure on it but I ended up snapping it in half.  I checked my spares and I have an extra 10M LPF kit and a 20M BPF kit from the U3 kit but those have the yellow toroids, so not the red one I broke.
I am wondering if it is possible to use super glue to glue it back together or am I being too impatient?  Seems like it is just powdered iron with glue anyhow... just curious if that is an option,

Thanks

Brian W6BRY


FOR SALE: QCX-40 KIT

Ed - K9EW
 

Half the fun is in the building, and this QCX-40 is still an unopened bag of parts.

I got it for a friend of mine who used to like to build, but he became a Silent Key before I could give it to him.

Next day shipping anywhere in conus for $50.

image.png

73,
ed - k9ew


Re: Broken L4 Toroid- can it be glued? #parts #problem

George Korper
 

I second that idea. 
Super glue will work fine. 

On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 1:07 PM Jon Reck W8REA <jonathan.p.reck@...> wrote:
Recently I broke a grey ferrite  toroid core putting together my U3S kit. I glued it back together with Locktite Ultra Gel superglue. The repair seemed strong and the kit worked fine.

Jon W8REA


Re: Broken L4 Toroid- can it be glued? #parts #problem

Jon Reck W8REA
 

Recently I broke a grey ferrite  toroid core putting together my U3S kit. I glued it back together with Locktite Ultra Gel superglue. The repair seemed strong and the kit worked fine.

Jon W8REA


Re: Broken L4 Toroid- can it be glued? #parts #problem

Leland L. Bahr
 

Should work.  I'd use fast setting epoxy.  Make sure you squeeze as tight as possible to keep properties as close to original as possible.  A gap could change them.

Lee, w0vt

On 7/16/2020 11:53 AM, Brian Mathews wrote:
Hello friends, finally had time yesterday to get started on my 30M QCX+ and everything was going great!!  This morning I got to step 3.49 and started winding L4... didn't seem like I was putting much pressure on it but I ended up snapping it in half.  I checked my spares and I have an extra 10M LPF kit and a 20M BPF kit from the U3 kit but those have the yellow toroids, so not the red one I broke.
I am wondering if it is possible to use super glue to glue it back together or am I being too impatient?  Seems like it is just powdered iron with glue anyhow... just curious if that is an option,

Thanks

Brian W6BRY


Broken L4 Toroid- can it be glued? #parts #problem

Brian Mathews
 

Hello friends, finally had time yesterday to get started on my 30M QCX+ and everything was going great!!  This morning I got to step 3.49 and started winding L4... didn't seem like I was putting much pressure on it but I ended up snapping it in half.  I checked my spares and I have an extra 10M LPF kit and a 20M BPF kit from the U3 kit but those have the yellow toroids, so not the red one I broke.
I am wondering if it is possible to use super glue to glue it back together or am I being too impatient?  Seems like it is just powdered iron with glue anyhow... just curious if that is an option,

Thanks

Brian W6BRY


Re: Qcx+ 20mhz After 2 hours on receive no power output anymore.

brambo <terps707@...>
 

transistor 751 broke......Replaced it and works great again..

Thnx for your advice to go int to the manual.

73 Bram


Re: QCX+ CAT control with ready made FTDI cable

Giuseppe Marullo
 

Good for you and cheaper, I just wanted something sturdier, my handmade audio cables sux big time, reliability in the long run is always a problem.
I wanted something dedicated.
Of course spending 20bucks for a 55usd radio...

Giuseppe Marullo
IW2JWW - JN45RQ

Giuseppe Marullo
IW2JWW - JN45RQ




On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 2:02 PM +0200, "N3MNT" <bob@...> wrote:

I am using this one.  I cut an old stereo headphone cable and added pins to the wires ( no soldering the plug).  It can also be used other USB to serial connections.  Works perfect.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BBPX8B8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Re: QCX+ not working ….HELP!!!

Jim Mcilroy
 

Hi Paul

Have you set your clock to 25MHz which is the TCXO frequency (I.e. not 27MHz)

Jim, G4EQX


On 16 Jul 2020, at 11:42, m0bmn via groups.io <m0bmn@...> wrote:

 

Hi Guys,

I just finished my QCX+ kit for 40m, but I have a problem, I have emailed Hansa  and just waiting for his reply but in the mean time anyone else care to offer advice?

Ok  the QCX as the TXCO module fitted in case anyone wants to know that.

When I power up the QCX I get the welcome screen and then it went into band select, I choose 40m and all looks good on the display, encoder and menus work as they should, the first problem  was the audio, rather than just a low level of noise I get a very regular pulsing sound, almost like motorboating  (but its not that). The rate of the pulsing doesn’t change as I turn the volume up just the loudness, if I entre the setup menu (I changed the ref freq to 25Hz as I have the txco fitted) and go to bandpass tuning I get a increase in noise but no tone as such , just more noise, the bandpass tuning doesn’t seem to do anything , still reading 4 to 5 on the display.

I haven’t tried TX yet, maybe I should.

I have put a scope on IC3 pin 8 and when in setup mode I do have a square wave there at about 7.5Mhz, when I de-active mode 8.7 bandpass that goes away

I have checked the voltages on the op amps as per the instructions and find that pin3 and pin 5 on all the op amps (iC5 onwards) is about the same as each amps pin 2 and 3, the manual shows it to be about half the pin2/3 voltage???

Anyone any ideas where to start? I may disconnect the volume control and fed a signal into the op amps from there from a clean source and see if thats ok, I think it may be before the volume control as the volume control does control the volume of the pulsing and if its a problem after the volume control then I guess the volume would remain the same.

Any ideas welcome.

73 Paul M0BMN