Date   
Re: QCX/QCX+ Serial number 10,000 auction for fun

IK4JQQ
 

Great job Hans. Congratulations you deserve all this. Hope you'll sell 10,000 QSX very soon too!
Ciao!

Re: QCX - Problem with new 30 meter QCX Initial Alignment

Ronald Taylor
 

Don, ROT A goes to IC2 pin 12 and ROT B goes to pin 13. Please clarify which one of those has continuity and which doesn’t. Probably the best solution would be to run a jumper directly between the encoder terminal and the IC2 pin that doesn’t have continuity. 

Ron



On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 11:20 Don W4ZYT <w4zyt.don@...> wrote:
On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 04:15 PM, Ronald Taylor wrote:
Don, the behavior of the rotary encoder and the voltage problem on IC2 pin 13 indicates to me either a cold solder joint Or defective rotary encoder. I suggest re soldering the connections on the rotary encoder and on pins 12 & 13 of IC2 as a start. Those are the processor pins connected to the encoder.  Hold your iron on the joints for a few seconds until you see the solder flow. A bad encoder is a rarity so start with the joints. 
 
Ron

On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 13:10 Don W4ZYT <w4zyt.don@...> wrote:
On Sun, May 24, 2020, 23:54 Don <w4zyt.don@...> wrote:
I purchased a  new 30-meter QCX xcvr earlier this month (PCB Rev. 5, Firmware 1.04) and have finished assembling it.  I have adjusted the screen contrast without problems to show the initial information - "T1.04, 2020 30 mtr xcvr" etc.  However, I have been unable to proceed with alignment as I cannot get the boot up screen showing "Select Band" and "80m" to advance.  I turn the center knob (rotor switch) left or right and it switches to "10m" but will not show any other band.  This would reset to "80m" if I switched off and then on again. Today, I clicked the rotor switch, thinking I might progress into the alignment scheme, and later reset the band using the factory reset, and it brought up "3820.0" but no further response to rotating the switch.  Turning off power now fails to reset this, and it is now stuck showing that 80 meter frequency. Consequently, further alignment is still not possible.  I have carefully avoided pushing either of the two smaller buttons, so don't know what their effect might be.

I have been back over the board and components carefully, resoldered what appeared to be several cold joints, checked for bent and misplaced IC pins, shorts, solder bridges, component orientation, and missing hardware - all OK.  Using the voltage chart on pp. 131-132 I have done some checking with my two AVMs.  Voltages on ICs 5 through 10 are all consistent nominally with what is shown in the troubleshooting section.  That is also true of the voltages for IC3, which I suspect reflects "receive" mode - all 14 points agree with the chart.  I also checked voltages at the several points on T1 and the points on C2 and D2, and those are correct.  On IC2, Most values are approximately what the chart on page 131 shows, although some are almost a volt higher.  I attribute this to the alignment not yet having been completed, but I don't know that these may also represent a problem.  The 20 Mhz crystal was checked with a portable receiver and is oscillating.
 
    Having read in several notes about the test pins contributing to inadvertent shorts during testing, alignment , or repair, I elected to leave those out for the time being, but all other components are       present and appear to be the proper items.

The big discrepancy on IC2 is pin 12, which should read around 1.9 volts and shows an voltage oscillating between about 2 and about 3.5 volts - with a regular period of about 140 cycles per minute.  Also, pin 13, which should show "0" shows a voltage of 4.92 volts. I have been over the schematic and the PCB chart but am not that adept at following it after a certain point and have not been able to resolve this. The problem does seem to involve the rotor switch.

I do not have or have access to an oscilloscope, and have no experience using one.

So I am at an impasse and would appreciate any guidance.  I'm a surgeon with limited background in electronics, and most of my kitbuilding was in the vacuum tube era, although it was accomplished successfully.  I'm a bit rusty, but do have some soldering experience, albeit limited experience with PCB construction.

Vy 73,

Don Lynch W4ZYT
 
--
Don Lynch MD W4ZYT 
Virginia Beach, Virginia
==
Donald F. Lynch, Jr., MD, FACS
 

 

 


 Hi Ron-

Per your guidance, I went back through and re-soldered all possibly questionable joints with special attention to - as you suggested - IC 2 and the rotary encoder switch.  I then rechecked voltages and the continuity between the rotary switch and pins 12 and 13 of IC 2.  When I applied power, I could turn the rotary switch counter clockwise and was able to advance the alignment process to "1. Preset"  at which point it would go no further.  Nothing happens when I turn the switch in a clockwise direction. I feel like I am moving ahead by baby steps :o), but at least it's forward movement.

In checking continuity from the rotary switch to ground and to IC 2, continuity between the center (ground) tab and ground was present.  Continuity between the left tab and pins 12 and 13 of IC 2 was also intact, however there was no continuity between the right tab and IC2.  As you suggested, the switch itself seems fine.

I broke out my old surgical magnifying loupes, and with that magnification, traced the PCB markings on the bottom of the PCB relative to the right sided rotary switch tab..  Referring to the chart, there is a very short blue trace which goes to the middle lower of the six diagnostic pins to the right of the switch - that was, no surprise, intact.  When one looks at the diagram of the right tab on the rotary switch, there is a second red trace (top of PCB) which extends immediately due north from the right tab to a blue trace which then goes to IC2.  With the switch installed, that top trace is under the switch and can't be accessed.  There is one of the tiny apertures at the north end of that red trace which is at the south end of a blue trace going to IC 2. This aperture would admit the tip of my VOM, and continuity between that end of the (blue) trace and pins 12 and 13 is present.  So it appears that there is a break in that (red) trace such that the right tab of the switch does not connect with the trace to IC2. 

I have limited experience with modern PCBs such as this one, and no experience with their repair.  If the problem is as the diagram suggests, how would one repair that bridge or test the connection to see if that resolves the problem I'm having? The rotary switch covers the section of the top of the board involved, so short of removing the switch a topside approach seems precluded.  Is there an acceptable "work-around/"  I guess one could run a wire along the bottom side of the board between the right side tab and (it looks like) pin 2 of IC 2 which connects with the appropriate other pins.  Or possibly install a very small calibre jumper wire between the right tab and the small aperture due north of the right tab on the bottom of the board.  I haven't tried either of these; just trying to reason this through.

What should my next step be?  I'm going to research postage to Izmir, just in case :o)

I am very grateful for your interest and help with this.  I will copy Hans as well.

Best regards,

Don Lynch W4ZYT

Re: IRF510 #alignment

Alan G4ZFQ
 

suddenly the gain would drop way down
Gwen,

I think the first thing is to check the antenna relay.

73 Alan G4ZFQ

Re: [help] Only noise being seen while IQ balance / phase lo / phase hi.

Jose Tent
 

Don,

Volume pots have been checked at least three times. The soldering points have been filled in from the top and re-heated to ensure good connection as well. They do dial up from zero to 5k smoothly as measured on the contact points on the board from the top. 

Thanks for the tip on the blue miti turn pot. I did gently crank them untill I heard it start making a small popping/clicking noise.  I believe that it reached an limit at one end at that point.  I then dialed back about ten full turns the other way. These things seem to have a lot of turns.  

Re: QCX vs. QCX+ Form Factor Question

Hans Summers
 

Hi Damon

Everything should be easy with a few ribbon cables. Nothing more... 

73 Hans G0UPL
http://qrp-labs.com

On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 9:26 PM <damon.carpenter@...> wrote:

Thanks, Hans! I completely understand not being able to make everyone happy. 

Thanks for the suggestion of moving the face panel off the end of the main board. Looking at the pics of the boards, it looks like there are a few connections I'd need to make. Are those easily accomplished with a few ribbon cables? Or are there more complicated connections there?

Thanks again!

Damon C
K5RZ

Re: IRF510 #alignment

George Korper
 

Thanks Tisha, I have debated buying a Peak tester but I have seen many very good reviews. My next purchase. 
And tnx for the link.

On Wed, May 27, 2020, 1:26 PM Tisha Hayes <Tisha.Hayes@...> wrote:

A suggestion on bad components removal from a circuit board. Unless you feel compelled to completely salvage the old part, cut the leads off the part and physically remove it first.

Then, apply a few drops of liquid rosin and use a hot soldering iron to melt the joint and lift the stub of the component lead out with the side of the soldering iron. If it resists then while the joint is molten, bang it gently on the table and the lead will fall out the bottom of the hole.

You can do this if you do not have a desoldering station that applies suction to remove the solder. Also, you are not digging around on the soldering pad or trace that can cause it to disbond from the fiberglass on the board.

I worked as a bench tech for a few years in college, doing component level replacement on high density circuit boards covered with DIP chip packages. I literally removed thousands of IC's, resistors, caps, transistors, connectors, from circuit boards. The times where I lifted a pad or tore off a trace I could count with the fingers on one hand. You just get very good at doing it, you can work fast and there is no stress when confronting removing lots of parts. (some of the things we had in for repair had been damaged by lightning and sometimes yI had to replace ten or fifteen DIP 16 and DIP 40 chips on one board (the boards had 80-200 chips on them)).

-------------------------------------------
As far as counterfeit components, yes, I definitely have seen that too.. particularly in parts originating out of one particular country that magically can supply components very cheaply (the guess is yours, I am not going to get political about it). What I have found that is very useful is the Peak DCA75 (made in the UK, accept no substitutes). It also works great for testing batches of transistors to match them when working with push-pull amplifiers. I have seen some pretty wide variances in components and a few "guaranteed good" components from "that country in question" that were completely different parts or just bad-bad.

So a big thumbs up to www.peakelec.co.uk   they make excellent pieces of kit with capabilities that are amazing. That applies to all of their devices (I own four or five of their little testers for a variety of purposes).
--
Tisha Hayes, AA4HA
Sr Engineer, 4RF Inc.

Re: My New Project - QCX plays a big part in article

Ben
 

Does anyone has experience with these PD decoy DC DC trigger modules?
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/4000459863567.html

Wording is is bit odd, i mean, English is not my first language, but:
"The hardware chip will randomly apply for voltage. For example, if you want a 15V model, it may generate other voltages" what, why?! ;-)

Re: IRF510 #alignment

Tisha Hayes
 

A suggestion on bad components removal from a circuit board. Unless you feel compelled to completely salvage the old part, cut the leads off the part and physically remove it first.

Then, apply a few drops of liquid rosin and use a hot soldering iron to melt the joint and lift the stub of the component lead out with the side of the soldering iron. If it resists then while the joint is molten, bang it gently on the table and the lead will fall out the bottom of the hole.

You can do this if you do not have a desoldering station that applies suction to remove the solder. Also, you are not digging around on the soldering pad or trace that can cause it to disbond from the fiberglass on the board.

I worked as a bench tech for a few years in college, doing component level replacement on high density circuit boards covered with DIP chip packages. I literally removed thousands of IC's, resistors, caps, transistors, connectors, from circuit boards. The times where I lifted a pad or tore off a trace I could count with the fingers on one hand. You just get very good at doing it, you can work fast and there is no stress when confronting removing lots of parts. (some of the things we had in for repair had been damaged by lightning and sometimes yI had to replace ten or fifteen DIP 16 and DIP 40 chips on one board (the boards had 80-200 chips on them)).

-------------------------------------------
As far as counterfeit components, yes, I definitely have seen that too.. particularly in parts originating out of one particular country that magically can supply components very cheaply (the guess is yours, I am not going to get political about it). What I have found that is very useful is the Peak DCA75 (made in the UK, accept no substitutes). It also works great for testing batches of transistors to match them when working with push-pull amplifiers. I have seen some pretty wide variances in components and a few "guaranteed good" components from "that country in question" that were completely different parts or just bad-bad.

So a big thumbs up to www.peakelec.co.uk   they make excellent pieces of kit with capabilities that are amazing. That applies to all of their devices (I own four or five of their little testers for a variety of purposes).
--
Tisha Hayes, AA4HA
Sr Engineer, 4RF Inc.

Re: QCX vs. QCX+ Form Factor Question

Damon Carpenter - K5RZ
 

Thanks, Hans! I completely understand not being able to make everyone happy. 

Thanks for the suggestion of moving the face panel off the end of the main board. Looking at the pics of the boards, it looks like there are a few connections I'd need to make. Are those easily accomplished with a few ribbon cables? Or are there more complicated connections there?

Thanks again!

Damon C
K5RZ

Re: QCX - Problem with new 30 meter QCX Initial Alignment

Don W4ZYT
 

On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 04:15 PM, Ronald Taylor wrote:
Don, the behavior of the rotary encoder and the voltage problem on IC2 pin 13 indicates to me either a cold solder joint Or defective rotary encoder. I suggest re soldering the connections on the rotary encoder and on pins 12 & 13 of IC2 as a start. Those are the processor pins connected to the encoder.  Hold your iron on the joints for a few seconds until you see the solder flow. A bad encoder is a rarity so start with the joints. 
 
Ron

On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 13:10 Don W4ZYT <w4zyt.don@...> wrote:
On Sun, May 24, 2020, 23:54 Don <w4zyt.don@...> wrote:
I purchased a  new 30-meter QCX xcvr earlier this month (PCB Rev. 5, Firmware 1.04) and have finished assembling it.  I have adjusted the screen contrast without problems to show the initial information - "T1.04, 2020 30 mtr xcvr" etc.  However, I have been unable to proceed with alignment as I cannot get the boot up screen showing "Select Band" and "80m" to advance.  I turn the center knob (rotor switch) left or right and it switches to "10m" but will not show any other band.  This would reset to "80m" if I switched off and then on again. Today, I clicked the rotor switch, thinking I might progress into the alignment scheme, and later reset the band using the factory reset, and it brought up "3820.0" but no further response to rotating the switch.  Turning off power now fails to reset this, and it is now stuck showing that 80 meter frequency. Consequently, further alignment is still not possible.  I have carefully avoided pushing either of the two smaller buttons, so don't know what their effect might be.

I have been back over the board and components carefully, resoldered what appeared to be several cold joints, checked for bent and misplaced IC pins, shorts, solder bridges, component orientation, and missing hardware - all OK.  Using the voltage chart on pp. 131-132 I have done some checking with my two AVMs.  Voltages on ICs 5 through 10 are all consistent nominally with what is shown in the troubleshooting section.  That is also true of the voltages for IC3, which I suspect reflects "receive" mode - all 14 points agree with the chart.  I also checked voltages at the several points on T1 and the points on C2 and D2, and those are correct.  On IC2, Most values are approximately what the chart on page 131 shows, although some are almost a volt higher.  I attribute this to the alignment not yet having been completed, but I don't know that these may also represent a problem.  The 20 Mhz crystal was checked with a portable receiver and is oscillating.
 
    Having read in several notes about the test pins contributing to inadvertent shorts during testing, alignment , or repair, I elected to leave those out for the time being, but all other components are       present and appear to be the proper items.

The big discrepancy on IC2 is pin 12, which should read around 1.9 volts and shows an voltage oscillating between about 2 and about 3.5 volts - with a regular period of about 140 cycles per minute.  Also, pin 13, which should show "0" shows a voltage of 4.92 volts. I have been over the schematic and the PCB chart but am not that adept at following it after a certain point and have not been able to resolve this. The problem does seem to involve the rotor switch.

I do not have or have access to an oscilloscope, and have no experience using one.

So I am at an impasse and would appreciate any guidance.  I'm a surgeon with limited background in electronics, and most of my kitbuilding was in the vacuum tube era, although it was accomplished successfully.  I'm a bit rusty, but do have some soldering experience, albeit limited experience with PCB construction.

Vy 73,

Don Lynch W4ZYT
 
--
Don Lynch MD W4ZYT 
Virginia Beach, Virginia
==
Donald F. Lynch, Jr., MD, FACS
 

 

 


 Hi Ron-

Per your guidance, I went back through and re-soldered all possibly questionable joints with special attention to - as you suggested - IC 2 and the rotary encoder switch.  I then rechecked voltages and the continuity between the rotary switch and pins 12 and 13 of IC 2.  When I applied power, I could turn the rotary switch counter clockwise and was able to advance the alignment process to "1. Preset"  at which point it would go no further.  Nothing happens when I turn the switch in a clockwise direction. I feel like I am moving ahead by baby steps :o), but at least it's forward movement.

In checking continuity from the rotary switch to ground and to IC 2, continuity between the center (ground) tab and ground was present.  Continuity between the left tab and pins 12 and 13 of IC 2 was also intact, however there was no continuity between the right tab and IC2.  As you suggested, the switch itself seems fine.

I broke out my old surgical magnifying loupes, and with that magnification, traced the PCB markings on the bottom of the PCB relative to the right sided rotary switch tab..  Referring to the chart, there is a very short blue trace which goes to the middle lower of the six diagnostic pins to the right of the switch - that was, no surprise, intact.  When one looks at the diagram of the right tab on the rotary switch, there is a second red trace (top of PCB) which extends immediately due north from the right tab to a blue trace which then goes to IC2.  With the switch installed, that top trace is under the switch and can't be accessed.  There is one of the tiny apertures at the north end of that red trace which is at the south end of a blue trace going to IC 2. This aperture would admit the tip of my VOM, and continuity between that end of the (blue) trace and pins 12 and 13 is present.  So it appears that there is a break in that (red) trace such that the right tab of the switch does not connect with the trace to IC2. 

I have limited experience with modern PCBs such as this one, and no experience with their repair.  If the problem is as the diagram suggests, how would one repair that bridge or test the connection to see if that resolves the problem I'm having? The rotary switch covers the section of the top of the board involved, so short of removing the switch a topside approach seems precluded.  Is there an acceptable "work-around/"  I guess one could run a wire along the bottom side of the board between the right side tab and (it looks like) pin 2 of IC 2 which connects with the appropriate other pins.  Or possibly install a very small calibre jumper wire between the right tab and the small aperture due north of the right tab on the bottom of the board.  I haven't tried either of these; just trying to reason this through.

What should my next step be?  I'm going to research postage to Izmir, just in case :o)

I am very grateful for your interest and help with this.  I will copy Hans as well.

Best regards,

Don Lynch W4ZYT

QCX, QLG1, v1.05 ... WSPR?

 

Can anybody confirm that QCX, QLG1 and firmware v1.05 work together properly with WSPR?

I enjoyed good returns on WSPR with both my QCX 40 and my QCX 20 prior to  v1.05 and prior to QLG1.
Yesterday with v1.05 only I got typical returns on the 20m unit while I was building my newly arrived QLG1.
Since I connected the QLG1 which, by all indications, is working correctly, and I used it to calibrate the 20MHz and 27MHz clocks, I haven't heard a peep from wsprnet.

Diag on QLG1 is "A -- f-- t12 s26" (s value drops to 5 occasionally, but no lower). At some point there was something after "A" and something after "f", as it appeared and disappeared immediately after I pressed "select" to update.

The QLG1 lamps flash, as described, the QCX's identify it and respond as anticipated. The calibration values on the ref and system clocks look reasonable, settling at 27,003,887 and 20,006,197 respectively after the heartbeats.

I was about to hit "Send" saying "nothing seems wrong, behaviorally, yet I haven't heard a squeak out of WSPRnet since connecting the QLG1." but on further gazing I did notice that with both QCX's, the "t" and "s" fields blank out occasionally too.

Julian N4JO.

Re: Miracle Whip and the QCX

Gwen Patton
 

I know the difference, but it's a difference without a distinction since they're both nasty. 

I barely even tolerate salad dressing. The only one I remotely like is blue cheese, or it's better precessor, Roquefort. If a sandwich calls for mayo (or Miracle Whip), I substitute blue cheese dressing. It's actually quite tasty on a roast beef hoagie.


On Wed, May 27, 2020, 1:57 PM Bill Cromwell <wrcromwell@...> wrote:
Hi,

Kraft makes both Miracle Whip and Mayonnaise. I sometimes have a
sandwich in one hand when I start tuning the bands and it has mayonnaise
on it.

To stay somewhere near radio in general and QRP Labs including QCX
neither product will work well as thermal grease nor as soldering flux.

73,

Bill  KU8H

On 5/27/20 1:25 PM, Julian Opificius wrote:
> Thank you for speaking up on such an important subject, Jack: they are
> indeed two completely different things. I nearly choked when I heard
> them equated. My wife is a Miracle Whip kinda girl (but nice enough in
> other ways) - I won't touch it - and I like mayonnaise, which she will
> eat under certain circumstances. Helleman's is my favorite, and I don't
> have time to make my own; maybe if and when I retire.
>
> Julian N4JO

--
bark less - wag more



Re: failed update to 1.05.

dan jordan
 

Hans,

Sounds like you have indeed found the source of the problem.  My QCX 20 was shipped from the U.S. earlier this year and yes: the hfuse was set to D9.

Dan

Re: Miracle Whip and the QCX

Bill Cromwell
 

Hi,

Kraft makes both Miracle Whip and Mayonnaise. I sometimes have a sandwich in one hand when I start tuning the bands and it has mayonnaise on it.

To stay somewhere near radio in general and QRP Labs including QCX neither product will work well as thermal grease nor as soldering flux.

73,

Bill KU8H

On 5/27/20 1:25 PM, Julian Opificius wrote:
Thank you for speaking up on such an important subject, Jack: they are indeed two completely different things. I nearly choked when I heard them equated. My wife is a Miracle Whip kinda girl (but nice enough in other ways) - I won't touch it - and I like mayonnaise, which she will eat under certain circumstances. Helleman's is my favorite, and I don't have time to make my own; maybe if and when I retire.
Julian N4JO
--
bark less - wag more

Re: QCX

dan jordan
 

Hi Rich,

I struggled a bit with this as well, sifting through old messages and doing quite a bit of web searching.  Bottom line is that I settled for 2 separate power supplies, both linear and regulated.  The 13.8v PS is used for normal ops and the 9v is used for running the WSPR beacon over extended time periods and to keep the power output low to insure that I do not overheat the 3 final PAs due to the higher duty cycle of WSPR.

Astron RS-4A (13.8V 3A)
https://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/hamps/astron.html

Jameco 9V 500mA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B886SFO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I have run this little PS for about 24 hours and it only just gets warm (according to the QCX manual, at 9V, the current draw should only be about 350mA).  Also it seems to be very "quiet" (it is NOT a switcher)

Dan

Re: Heresy follows Re: [QRPLabs] IRF510 #alignment

Bill Cromwell
 

Hi Arv,

The dual gate mosfets don't have the grids connected together:)

The IRF510s do need to have their pins aligned with the pads on the circuit board (or terminal strips is used).

73,

Bill KU8H

On 5/27/20 1:12 PM, Arv Evans wrote:
Lawrence N0UU
But, but...MOSFETs already have the suppressor grid tied to the control grid!    8-)
It is getting quite difficult to find any 1625's for modification and GG service.
Have you tried using an IRF510 in grounded grid mode (Gate to ground and
drive to the Source lead?  Since it takes around 2V to turn them on, it sounds
like a natural for Class-C mode.
The topic is about how to align your IRF510 devices.  I did not know that they
needed alignment, but apparently some of the younger set knows how to do it.
Arv  K7HKL
_._
On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 10:53 AM Cox <@LStoskopf <mailto:@LStoskopf>> wrote:
You guys aren't old enough.  I was taught to take certain brands of
1625 tubes, take the sockets off and you could unsolder  the
supressor grid wires off of the pin it was attached to , move it to
the grid, and re-assemble the socket.  Worked great in GG.  Try that
on your fancy transistor.
N0UU
--
bark less - wag more

Re: Miracle Whip and the QCX

George Korper
 

Thanks for reminding me Allison. 
I think  I had a wire with an alligator clip that did work well on 40. Must be here somewhere :)

On Wed, May 27, 2020, 11:12 AM ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...> wrote:
I got to try one, it was small and worked as expected...

What did I expect, its an electrically short antenna but with a suitable
ground counterpoise it made contacts.  However the one I tried you
could take off the whip and replace it with a wire and with 25ft of wire
on 40M it was remarkably good and tuned the wire to a good SWR.

Its weakness is the short whip.  Its also the feature.  All of the shortend
verticals suffer that.  Just like the 7-8ft whips I use for mobile HF.

Allison
-------------------------------
Please reply on list so we can share.
No private email, it goes to a bit bucket due address harvesting

Re: Miracle Whip and the QCX

 

Thank you for speaking up on such an important subject, Jack: they are indeed two completely different things. I nearly choked when I heard them equated. My wife is a Miracle Whip kinda girl (but nice enough in other ways) - I won't touch it - and I like mayonnaise, which she will eat under certain circumstances. Helleman's is my favorite, and I don't have time to make my own; maybe if and when I retire.

Julian N4JO

Re: 10W HF Linear PA - Question on R209/R210 #pa

Evan Hand
 

Wow!  Again, Thank-you Allison for taking the time to explain!  Now it makes sense.  

73
Evan
AC9TU

Re: Miracle Whip and the QCX

jjpurdum
 

Anyone who has tasted Miracle Whip and mayonnaise knows Miracle Whip ain't mayonnaise! Also, if you do like mayonnaise, try making your own. You'll throw rocks at Hellman's.

Jack, W8TEE

On Wednesday, May 27, 2020, 12:06:27 PM EDT, Gwen Patton <ardrhi@...> wrote:


Not gonna get a Miracle Whip. I detest mayonnaise. ;)

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
73,
Gwen, NG3P


On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 11:48 AM George Korper <georgekorper@...> wrote:
Hi All,

When the FT-817 came out in the early 2000's, not long after small antennas
that directly attach to the radio appeared on the scene. Many of us purchased
the Miracle Whip and during the sunspot max worked a Miracle on the high bands,
20 on up and especially on 10 and 15 meters. Over the years it has become the butt
of jokes, called a fraud, and found a place in the junk box. 

I had many pleasurable days in remote locations and on some luxury hotel terraces
using the Miracle Whip primarily to listen to SSB and CW with the FT817.
The unit was very high quality, constructed in Canada and did precisely as well as described.

When 10 and 15 were hot you could actually make QRP contacts, and I must say say
it could, for the brave,  tolerate 20 watts...at least mine lived through it. 

As usual, Andy made me think about dragging it out, when he basically called me a sucker
for having one. Thanks,  Andy, I love you man. It works well with the QCX. Very well indeed. 
And attached to the QCX which has replaced my FT817 mainly because the QCX is a better CW rig
I can with a 9 volt battery test the limits of its reach on WSPR. 

Kevin Loughlin's review link is worth seeing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2V1nx3x5lI