Date   

Re: OT: wire and tubing source from "Arduino Projects for Amateur Radio"?

kumar gaj
 

Hi Kevin 
Please see this link for assortment of wires with pins for breadboarding. 
120 wires colored with several combination of pins  READY TO USE 

Best Regards
Kumar 
VU2BGS

On Mon, 11 May 2020, 03:45 Kevin Zembower via groups.io, <kzembower=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:
Please excuse this off-topic post. This was the group that I subscribe
to that I thought would be most into building circuits and amateur radio.

I just got "Arduino Projects for Amateur Radio" by Purdum and Kidder.
Their first project involves wiring a 2x16 or 4x20 LCD screen to the
Arduino on a prototyping shield. They advocate using bare 28AWG wire and
teflon tubing insulation for interconnects. But, they don't give any
specifications or references.

The only 28AWG bare wire I can find from Digikey or Mouser is about $50
for a 100ft spool. Is this what I should expect to pay? Likewise, The
smallest teflon or PTFE tubing I can find is 2mm ID for 3D printer
extruders, at about $7 per 5 feet. This seems big to me. Is this the stuff?

Can anyone using this construction method suggest to me sources of these
materials, or terms to search for to find them? Part numbers would be
most welcome.

Thanks for your advice and suggestions. Apologies, again, for the OT.

-Kevin
KC3KZ




Re: QCX antenna

Timothy Fidler
 

Ward,  I think you are falling into the trap that I did years ago. The Coax screen is at DC ground potential if it is earthed. 

The Ac  situation is rather different.  If  power flow is regarded as positive charge flow then if the centre of the coax is + then power goes out the dipole leg  tied to centre and power flow comes back from the other leg to the screen of the cable.  It's magic - there is an invisible 72 ohm resistor in the air between them that causes real power to be radiated if the antenna is resonant.  Then in the next half cycle the centre drops to -V with respect  to the screen and power flows out through the screen leg and back to the centre conductor. The differential voltage is maximum at the dipole tips; at the Feed point you can only see differential RF current which is hard to  measure.  Back to the real ground.  The centre connected dipole leg can see the ground ground below it (as long as the radio is earthed and not into sand) .  However the Peak voltage between that dipole tip and ground is only V and not  V - minus V = 2 Vpeak.

If the antenna is  one wavelen off the ground, then that voltage (antenna end) sees  the other leg of the dipole  lambda/2 away at difference 2Vpeak, whereas the ground is  Lambda away at difference Vpeak. So there is a 4:1 tendency for the E field lines from the antenna tip areas  to point in the direction of the other dipole end instead of to the ground.

Something else that maybe has you fooled - if you look at the output filter of a transmitter, there is no DC path through  the filter from the driving Mosfet or BJT . The voltage on the coax centre must go  + and - with respect to ground , not with respect to some  dc constant voltage. Therefore when the coax centre is negative ,  current flows from ground (which is a DC zero volts ) out and back to the centre pin and the driven side of the low pass filter. 

If you operated  a portable unit with a coax fed antenna  and did not ground the antenna's coax at the radio then the antenna,  if electrically LOW, should present a different impedance over the coax grounded version.  However for ESD protection of component  reasons it is not something that you would  want to do in a fixed situation. 

regards,


Re: 28 pin socket... #40m #qcx

Mike Besemer - WM4B
 

Check the soldering on R47 and R65.  Also, make sure R47 was installed on the board in the correct orientation.

 

Mike

WM4B

 

From: QRPLabs@groups.io [mailto:QRPLabs@groups.io] On Behalf Of B.A. Black
Sent: Monday, May 11, 2020 9:15 PM
To: QRPLabs@groups.io
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] 28 pin socket... #40m #qcx

 

pin 3( starting as per the manual working right to left) shows a constant 3.87 vdc.
there is no change when R47 is adjusted..


Re: 28 pin socket... #40m #qcx

B.A. Black
 

also, Now i have been able to careful and slowly adjust R47 and now I am getting a single flashing cursor on the top left box


Re: 28 pin socket... #40m #qcx

B.A. Black
 

pin 3( starting as per the manual working right to left) shows a constant 3.87 vdc.
there is no change when R47 is adjusted..


Re: #mods #pa #80m #160m #mods #pa #80m #160m

Ryan Flowers
 

My own suggestion would be to document it much like the QCX-SSB hack. The kit is low enough priced that buying it just for this purpose is totally feasible :-) 

Ryan Flowers



On Mon, May 11, 2020 at 5:12 PM Richard Hall <n76003@...> wrote:
Please forgive me, Hans, I have desecrated your lovely work of art.
This PA was botched beyond redemption. I shorted the pads of Q1 and could not resolve the short even with Q1 removed. But your amazing T/R circuitry was intact and I needed a T/R switch so...
This mod seems to work. It even does QSK. Do you think it will destroy my QCX?
Suggested mod: Something similar could be done with a (not botched) PA. Just interrupt the circuit at C16 and add a BNC for the receive antenna.
Suggested kit: an outboard T/R switch using the same pin-diode circuitry with maybe a pass through for the PTT signal to key a following PA. This would be especially useful for the lower bands. One of the few high-end features missing from QCX is provision for a receive antenna.
Richard NS3C


--
Ryan Flowers - W7RLF
MiscDotGeek - QRP and More


Re: #qcx class e #pa #lpf..... or hunting for the optimum #qcx #pa

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

Jim,

Seems we violently agree.  ;)
The real trick it to help others in the process.
That's hard!

Allison
-------------------------------
Please reply on list so we can share.
No direct email, it goes to bit bucket due address harvesting in groups.IO


#mods #pa #80m #160m #mods #pa #80m #160m

Richard Hall
 

Please forgive me, Hans, I have desecrated your lovely work of art.
This PA was botched beyond redemption. I shorted the pads of Q1 and could not resolve the short even with Q1 removed. But your amazing T/R circuitry was intact and I needed a T/R switch so...
This mod seems to work. It even does QSK. Do you think it will destroy my QCX?
Suggested mod: Something similar could be done with a (not botched) PA. Just interrupt the circuit at C16 and add a BNC for the receive antenna.
Suggested kit: an outboard T/R switch using the same pin-diode circuitry with maybe a pass through for the PTT signal to key a following PA. This would be especially useful for the lower bands. One of the few high-end features missing from QCX is provision for a receive antenna.
Richard NS3C


Re: #qcx class e #pa #lpf..... or hunting for the optimum #qcx #pa

Jim Allyn - N7JA
 

On Mon, May 11, 2020 at 07:12 AM, ajparent1/KB1GMX wrote:
Please start with a 13.8V power supply.
As  I stated above, I did start with 13.8 volts.

Then subtract out the series polarity protect diode.
As I stated above, I did subtract voltage drop across the series polarity protect diode, using the data from the manufacturer's data sheet.

Then subtract the voltage drop across Q6 during TX (if its saturated maybe a half volt).

As I stated above, I did subtract the voltage drop aross Q6, using the data from the manufacturer's data sheet.

I assure you the voltage applied to the collectors via L4 is NOT 13.8V and
likely closer to 12... ok, maybe 12.8ish

As I stated above, using the manufacturer's data for the drop across D3 and for the drop across Q6, I calculated 13.12 volts at the collector of Q6.  I had to interpolate these numbers off the graph, so they might be off a little.  In an earlier life, if this were my radio, and the numbers for voltage drop across D3 and Q6 were the numbers you gave instead of the numbers the manufacturer gave, I'd probably have looked for a different vendor for those parts, if this were a critical application.  (See my next paragraph.)  When I buy and build a QCX, I will probably measure those things and look for other ways to improve the performance of the QCX.  If I decide to use mine portable, I will probably replace IC11  with a well filtered and (if needed) well shielded switcher to improve battery life.

The 74ACt00, yes it also adds current when clocked and it would require
measuring that as well as the increased current from driving the gates of the
BS170s as that's about 180pf of total gate capacitance.

I didn't measure it.  Not having a QCX here, I calculated the current draw from the numbers on the manufacturer's datasheets, and the standard formula P = C X V^2 X F.  I summed up all of the capacitances that have to be driven when in transmit, including the internal capacitances of the three gates of IC3 that are being driven and neglected the microamps current draw of IC3D which is not being driven at MHz frequencies, the input capacitance of IC3B and IC3C that has to be driven by the Si5351, the input capacitance of IC3A which has to be driven by IC3B, and the input capacitances of the three BS170s which have to be driven by IC3A.  That total draws a lot more current than one might think.  (In the 1980s, I worked for a company that built alphanumeric display pagers.  Probably these days most people would have no clue what that is.  I like to say we invented texting, and really, we did.  Anyway,  in the process, I learned a HELL of a LOT about reducing power consumption.  When a new engineer at some point a few years later wrote a change order to use a bipolar transistor to turn on the receiver instead of the FET I had specified because the bipolar transistor was cheaper and he wanted to save money, I showed him my spreadsheet and told him exactly how much that would reduce the battery life of the pager.  Battery life was a big deal in those days before lithium batteries, and I had EVERYTHING in my spreadsheet.)

Also you do  need to know what at the drains but for all practical uses L4 is 
much less than 50 milliohms so the junction of  C34 and L4 will be extremely
close to the drain voltage applied [less than .04V error].

Which is why I left out the drop across L4.  I did consider calculating how much wire is in it and what the resistance of that wire would be, but decided it wouldn't be worth the trouble.


IN the end you have verified most of what I said and pointed outu a miss.
The voltages I used may not match yours but i did say go measure it.
As did I say go measure it.  My point was that though there are ways you can calculate things like that, there is no substitute for measuring it.  Or better yet, do both.  And in my earlier life, if the measurements and calculations didn't agree, I would absolutely go figure out why.

In the end the trivial way is likely good enough  but far from accurate.

And if Manuel is curious about the efficiency, he needs to learn how to measure it.  And I think he probably just learned a lot.  Manuel, I appreciate your IR photographs, and there is likely an IR camera in my near future.

Allison, I don't mean to be rude or insulting to you here, but it's just my nature to check things like this and add my two cents worth, and I know I can come across that way at times.  (Probably way too often.  I am not a "people person", and I'm old enough that that's not likely to change.)  No offense is intended, and I recognize and acknowledge that you are one of the more knowledgeable people here, and by a significant margin.  73


Re: OT: wire and tubing source from "Arduino Projects for Amateur Radio"?

John Baines
 

Jack,

Thanks for the info. I look forward ti it.

73
John
M0JBA


On 11 May 2020, at 23:17, jjpurdum via groups.io <jjpurdum@...> wrote:

The Microcontroller project for Amateur Radio is the one that is coming out from the ARRL in July. It has the projects shown here and uses the Arduino family, STM32, ESP32 and Teensy 4.0 microcontrollers:

<All Projects - Small.jpg>
The first Arduino Projects for Amateur Radio book only used Arduino microcontrollers. However, those are not fast enough for the DSP projects in the new book, so we added new chips to the mix.

Thanks for the kind words about Beginning C for Arduino...they are appreciated!

Jack, W8TEE

On Monday, May 11, 2020, 4:43:15 PM EDT, John Baines via groups.io <jbaines@...> wrote:


Jack,

I seem to have missed the info - what is the subject of your new book?
I am a satisfied reader of ‘Beginning C for Arduino’

73
John
M0JBA



On 11 May 2020, at 18:38, Lou KI5FTY <lscalpati@...> wrote:

Jack, speaking of your book, when is the new book being released?

73
Lou KI5FTY



On Mon, May 11, 2020 at 10:23 AM jjpurdum via groups.io <jjpurdum=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks for the kind words about the book...they are appreciated. 

A friend of mine found small gauge copper wire at Hobby Lobby and was labeled as "craft wire". He says it's solid copper wire, works well, and it cheap and locally available. eBay seems to carry it, too. It is easier to slip on a tube of insulation compared to stripping both ends of a piece of wire.

Jack, W8TEE

On Monday, May 11, 2020, 11:09:03 AM EDT, Kevin Zembower via groups.io<kzembower=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:


Thanks for all the responses. Unfortunately, most have not been particularly helpful or responsive to my questions. I’m aware of the use of hookup wire to create proto board circuits. I’ve built many of these myself. I always experienced stripping both ends of very short wires as very slow and tedious. I was hoping that the (new to me) procedure of soldering bare wire to one pin, snipping it to length, snipping the tubing to length and slipping tubing over the wire before connecting the other end would be quicker and easier. I was not asking about striping wire with Teflon insulation.
 
Jack, I am thoroughly enjoying your book, and am looking forward to building the projects. It seems to be very well written. Regarding the magnet wire, this is enameled and would therefore need to be stripped. I, too, remember getting a foot of the Teflon tubing at a hamfest from a vendor for free, although I’ll be darned if I can find it now. Oh, for the days of just wandering around a store or hamfest, and picking up what looks right…  And, no, I don’t think this combination was required to build the circuits in your book, I just wanted to try a new method to see if it worked better for me.
 
After writing the above paragraph, I spent 30 minutes searching through bins, and actually found the tubing. It appears to be about 1/16 inch OD or about 1.68mm. The wall thickness is 0.29 to 0.36mm, or 0.012-0.014 inch. I’m able to easily slide a 0.80mm wire into it, but it has to stretch to fit a 1.29mm or 0.05 inch wire.
 
I ended up getting these items from Amazon (for future readers of this thread):
uxcell 0.5mm x 0.9mm PTFE Tubing Tube Pipe 5 Meter 16.4Ft for 3D Printer RepRap $9.39
uxcell 1mm ID 2mm OD PTFE Tubing Tube Pipe 5M 16.4ft for 3D Printer RepRap $6.99
Bare Copper Wire/Choose : 10 Ga To 30 Ga (24 Ga - 100 Ft Spool) $9.50
Bare Copper Wire/Choose : 10 Ga To 30 Ga (28 Ga 150 Ft Spool) $8.75
 
Thanks, again, to all who helped.
 
-Kevin
KC3KZ
 



<All Projects - Small.jpg>


Re: QCX-SSB: SSB with your QCX transceiver

Guido PE1NNZ
 

All, 
Note with R1.02c there a bug with the CW offset not being stored well. Manuel, DL2MAN just told me about this; so if you have downloaded R1.02c please download it again because I have fixed it. ... 

Hang on, you mean that the SDA and SCK pins on the OLED actually go to PD2 and PD3 on the atmega328, respectively?
 
@John, yes that is correct, OLED pins SDA, SCK go to resp. PD2 PD3

The oled .91 display works well once i sussed the pins go to the actual lcd connector and not via a i2c interface:) ...
 
@Dean, 
Yes turning the volume below 0 turns the radio in power-saving mode: OLED, SI5351 and micro-processor will sleep and can be re-activated by a simple press on any button. 
Very Good you have the speaker working, and, yes, every 27MHz crystal is different so the frequency needs to be calibrated in 8.1 Ref Freq. or in the code as you did. Regarding the commans, you can change the commas into full-stops on line 2495: lcd.print(',');  // Thousands separator

So: would it be possible to enable all available bandwidths for CW in any future release?
 
@Christiaan, happy you like the 700Hz CW pitch, and yes its on my list: will make the full list of bandwidths (full/4k/2k5/1k7/500/200/100/50) back again available for CW via the menu. 

On Mon, May 11, 2020 at 9:43 PM John VA7JBE <va7jbe@...> wrote:
On Mon, May 11, 2020 at 08:40 AM, Dean Smith wrote:
The oled .91 display works well once i sussed the pins go to the actual lcd connector and not via a i2c interface:)
Hang on, you mean that the SDA and SCK pins on the OLED actually go to PD2 and PD3 on the atmega328, respectively?


Re: OT: wire and tubing source from "Arduino Projects for Amateur Radio"?

jjpurdum
 

The Microcontroller project for Amateur Radio is the one that is coming out from the ARRL in July. It has the projects shown here and uses the Arduino family, STM32, ESP32 and Teensy 4.0 microcontrollers:


The first Arduino Projects for Amateur Radio book only used Arduino microcontrollers. However, those are not fast enough for the DSP projects in the new book, so we added new chips to the mix.

Thanks for the kind words about Beginning C for Arduino...they are appreciated!

Jack, W8TEE

On Monday, May 11, 2020, 4:43:15 PM EDT, John Baines via groups.io <jbaines@...> wrote:


Jack,

I seem to have missed the info - what is the subject of your new book?
I am a satisfied reader of ‘Beginning C for Arduino’

73
John
M0JBA



On 11 May 2020, at 18:38, Lou KI5FTY <lscalpati@...> wrote:

Jack, speaking of your book, when is the new book being released?

73
Lou KI5FTY



On Mon, May 11, 2020 at 10:23 AM jjpurdum via groups.io <jjpurdum=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks for the kind words about the book...they are appreciated. 

A friend of mine found small gauge copper wire at Hobby Lobby and was labeled as "craft wire". He says it's solid copper wire, works well, and it cheap and locally available. eBay seems to carry it, too. It is easier to slip on a tube of insulation compared to stripping both ends of a piece of wire.

Jack, W8TEE

On Monday, May 11, 2020, 11:09:03 AM EDT, Kevin Zembower via groups.io<kzembower=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:


Thanks for all the responses. Unfortunately, most have not been particularly helpful or responsive to my questions. I’m aware of the use of hookup wire to create proto board circuits. I’ve built many of these myself. I always experienced stripping both ends of very short wires as very slow and tedious. I was hoping that the (new to me) procedure of soldering bare wire to one pin, snipping it to length, snipping the tubing to length and slipping tubing over the wire before connecting the other end would be quicker and easier. I was not asking about striping wire with Teflon insulation.
 
Jack, I am thoroughly enjoying your book, and am looking forward to building the projects. It seems to be very well written. Regarding the magnet wire, this is enameled and would therefore need to be stripped. I, too, remember getting a foot of the Teflon tubing at a hamfest from a vendor for free, although I’ll be darned if I can find it now. Oh, for the days of just wandering around a store or hamfest, and picking up what looks right…  And, no, I don’t think this combination was required to build the circuits in your book, I just wanted to try a new method to see if it worked better for me.
 
After writing the above paragraph, I spent 30 minutes searching through bins, and actually found the tubing. It appears to be about 1/16 inch OD or about 1.68mm. The wall thickness is 0.29 to 0.36mm, or 0.012-0.014 inch. I’m able to easily slide a 0.80mm wire into it, but it has to stretch to fit a 1.29mm or 0.05 inch wire.
 
I ended up getting these items from Amazon (for future readers of this thread):
uxcell 0.5mm x 0.9mm PTFE Tubing Tube Pipe 5 Meter 16.4Ft for 3D Printer RepRap $9.39
uxcell 1mm ID 2mm OD PTFE Tubing Tube Pipe 5M 16.4ft for 3D Printer RepRap $6.99
Bare Copper Wire/Choose : 10 Ga To 30 Ga (24 Ga - 100 Ft Spool) $9.50
Bare Copper Wire/Choose : 10 Ga To 30 Ga (28 Ga 150 Ft Spool) $8.75
 
Thanks, again, to all who helped.
 
-Kevin
KC3KZ
 




Re: QCX antenna

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

No.  The coax would have to be very short for that (like under 10ft at 80m).

If the dipole is reasonably high you likely have a 50ft  run, fyi a 1/4 Wave
is ~10M  so the shield is near enough inductance to to not ground the shield side
more or less (if it were 1/4 wave exactly, we call that a balun).
I've encountered enough cases where noise is an issue a good 1:1 balun
with enough choking impedance can help with noise issues due to coax 
unbalancing the antenna.

Grounding the shield is at the radio end or near it.  For the most part we
commonly get away with no balun, one should be there to avoid the issue
of imbalance of the antenna.  

Allison
-------------------------------
Please reply on list so we can share.
No direct email, it goes to bit bucket due address harvesting in groups.IO


Re: QCX antenna

Dave N3AC
 

Walt,

Your 2 conductors for coax are the center conductor and the inside of the shield. Grounding does not affect those 2 conductors.

On Mon, May 11, 2020, 16:42 Ward Merdes <W.merdes@...> wrote:
Allison:

Forgive my ignorance, but doesn’t grounding the shield make half of a coax-fed dipole (for example) rather useless?

Thank you for your continuing posts. I’m learning a ton.

Ward Merdes - KL7IXW
Fairbanks, Alaska

On Mon, May 11, 2020 at 9:00 AM George Korper <georgekorper@...> wrote:
Dan, I would like to try a trap since it worked out for you,
Do you have a design that would handle the Amp as well as the QCX?

On Mon, May 11, 2020 at 12:17 PM Dan Pflugrath <dpflugrath@...> wrote:
So much of the noise we hear today is locally generated.  I use a stealth 40 meter Resonant EFHW at the home QTH which is almost always noisy due to modern computerized appliances especially cable TV and internet boxes.  I use a trapped 40 meter Resonant EFHW  to add 30 meter capability for Summits On The Air.  When on a summit, unlike the home QTH, there is absolutely no noise other than low level naturally occurring atmospheric noise.  The Resonant EFHW for SOTA is the most effective, convenient no tuner required antenna.

--


Re: Broken record

 

The only good effect I'm aware of...


Re: Broken record

 

Ha! I'm with you there!
I'm trying to send him some of mine, but I think he's too busy to answer dumb questions from this noob at the moment :-) We'll get there in good time.
But I know what you mean: eat or do radio? Hmmm, tough call...


Re: OT: wire and tubing source from "Arduino Projects for Amateur Radio"?

John Baines
 

Jack,

I seem to have missed the info - what is the subject of your new book?
I am a satisfied reader of ‘Beginning C for Arduino’

73
John
M0JBA



On 11 May 2020, at 18:38, Lou KI5FTY <lscalpati@...> wrote:

Jack, speaking of your book, when is the new book being released?

73
Lou KI5FTY



On Mon, May 11, 2020 at 10:23 AM jjpurdum via groups.io <jjpurdum=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks for the kind words about the book...they are appreciated. 

A friend of mine found small gauge copper wire at Hobby Lobby and was labeled as "craft wire". He says it's solid copper wire, works well, and it cheap and locally available. eBay seems to carry it, too. It is easier to slip on a tube of insulation compared to stripping both ends of a piece of wire.

Jack, W8TEE

On Monday, May 11, 2020, 11:09:03 AM EDT, Kevin Zembower via groups.io<kzembower=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:


Thanks for all the responses. Unfortunately, most have not been particularly helpful or responsive to my questions. I’m aware of the use of hookup wire to create proto board circuits. I’ve built many of these myself. I always experienced stripping both ends of very short wires as very slow and tedious. I was hoping that the (new to me) procedure of soldering bare wire to one pin, snipping it to length, snipping the tubing to length and slipping tubing over the wire before connecting the other end would be quicker and easier. I was not asking about striping wire with Teflon insulation.
 
Jack, I am thoroughly enjoying your book, and am looking forward to building the projects. It seems to be very well written. Regarding the magnet wire, this is enameled and would therefore need to be stripped. I, too, remember getting a foot of the Teflon tubing at a hamfest from a vendor for free, although I’ll be darned if I can find it now. Oh, for the days of just wandering around a store or hamfest, and picking up what looks right…  And, no, I don’t think this combination was required to build the circuits in your book, I just wanted to try a new method to see if it worked better for me.
 
After writing the above paragraph, I spent 30 minutes searching through bins, and actually found the tubing. It appears to be about 1/16 inch OD or about 1.68mm. The wall thickness is 0.29 to 0.36mm, or 0.012-0.014 inch. I’m able to easily slide a 0.80mm wire into it, but it has to stretch to fit a 1.29mm or 0.05 inch wire.
 
I ended up getting these items from Amazon (for future readers of this thread):
uxcell 0.5mm x 0.9mm PTFE Tubing Tube Pipe 5 Meter 16.4Ft for 3D Printer RepRap $9.39
uxcell 1mm ID 2mm OD PTFE Tubing Tube Pipe 5M 16.4ft for 3D Printer RepRap $6.99
Bare Copper Wire/Choose : 10 Ga To 30 Ga (24 Ga - 100 Ft Spool) $9.50
Bare Copper Wire/Choose : 10 Ga To 30 Ga (28 Ga 150 Ft Spool) $8.75
 
Thanks, again, to all who helped.
 
-Kevin
KC3KZ
 




Re: QCX antenna

Ward Merdes
 

Allison:

Forgive my ignorance, but doesn’t grounding the shield make half of a coax-fed dipole (for example) rather useless?

Thank you for your continuing posts. I’m learning a ton.

Ward Merdes - KL7IXW
Fairbanks, Alaska

On Mon, May 11, 2020 at 9:00 AM George Korper <georgekorper@...> wrote:
Dan, I would like to try a trap since it worked out for you,
Do you have a design that would handle the Amp as well as the QCX?

On Mon, May 11, 2020 at 12:17 PM Dan Pflugrath <dpflugrath@...> wrote:
So much of the noise we hear today is locally generated.  I use a stealth 40 meter Resonant EFHW at the home QTH which is almost always noisy due to modern computerized appliances especially cable TV and internet boxes.  I use a trapped 40 meter Resonant EFHW  to add 30 meter capability for Summits On The Air.  When on a summit, unlike the home QTH, there is absolutely no noise other than low level naturally occurring atmospheric noise.  The Resonant EFHW for SOTA is the most effective, convenient no tuner required antenna.

--


Re: Broken record

Mike Besemer - WM4B
 

Goes along with my broken bank account; all my money is going to Hans!

Mike
WM4B

On May 11, 2020 3:56 PM, "Andy Brilleaux via groups.io" <punkbiscuit@...> wrote:
On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 02:05 AM, Julian Opificius wrote:
I was browsing around the forum here, and just discovered that in April we broke the record for posts in a month with 1335
The COVID19 effect ;-)


Re: Broken record

Andy Brilleaux <punkbiscuit@...>
 

On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 02:05 AM, Julian Opificius wrote:
I was browsing around the forum here, and just discovered that in April we broke the record for posts  in a month with 1335
The COVID19 effect ;-)