Date   
Re: 50W Amp - Photo of T2 Installed

Evan Hand
 

Hans,

Unfortunately I (and I assume the rest of us) do not have that capability.  Clicking on the More button is where the sender can delete, however there is not an edit option.

The last suggestion is really the best.

73
Evan
AC9TU

Re: 50W Amp - Photo of T2 Installed

Hans Summers
 

Hi Evan

There's a facility to edit messages on the groups.io web site . At the bottom right under the message text, there's a "more" link and if you click that, you can click "Edit message" and change the message. 

Or maybe it is only available to me because I'm the one that started the group?

Anyway this does not help anyone who has already received the message via email, which I think constitutes the majority of forum members. So best to read twice before clicking "send" ;-)

73 Hans G0UPL 


On Sun, Mar 1, 2020, 13:21 Evan Hand <elhandjr@...> wrote:
Mike,

I have found that copying the original post, pasting and editing in a new post and then deleting the original post is the only way to remove the typos.

I agree, a way to edit prior posts would be a really good thing.

73
Evan
AC9TU

CAT control does not work well

m-miyake@...
 

Hello

I am trying to use CAT control of QCX.
However, when connecting to the terminal software of PC
and typing commands by keyboard,
it seems to work without any problem,

but when trying to link with SDR software through OmniRIG software.
Omnirig set -> RTS ; Handshake.
The LCD display of QCX is disturbed and CAT control does not work well. The LCD display becomes zero or bar noise occurs.
Apparently, CTS-RTS control is not working,
and sending and receiving is not working.

QCX is a Ver4 board,
and the circuit connection was made as shown in the figure.
Please teach me what is wrong.

--
m-miyake
JJ1DIF

Re: 50W Amp - Photo of T2 Installed

Evan Hand
 

Mike,

I have found that copying the original post, pasting and editing in a new post and then deleting the original post is the only way to remove the typos.

I agree, a way to edit prior posts would be a really good thing.

73
Evan
AC9TU

Re: clock and gps #clock

KEN G4APB
 

Hi Don, if are seeing no characters of any kind on half your display then you must have a bad connection to the display module. Try resoldeing all the joints to the display and long connector.
73 Ken g4apb

Re: clock and gps #clock

Don Blachura
 

Rick, did the right and left button pressing, no luck. Only see half the screen on the diplay.
Checked the power supply,putting out 4.75 watts, so that's seems ok. Was working  for two days.
Decided to redo line 2 and when I came back after resetting it , it was only showing half the display 
with the time and date on the left part of the screen.

Don

Re: 50W Amp - Photo of T2 Installed

Gregg Myers
 

Good luck! I hope yours works first try.

73,
Gregg
w7grm

On Sat, Feb 29, 2020 at 7:19 PM Michael Lloyd <mikell@...> wrote:
Thanks Greg, looks like I did it right. One more to go
--
73
NE5U

Mike

Re: 50W Amp - Photo of T2 Installed

 

Thanks Greg, looks like I did it right. One more to go
--
73
NE5U

Mike

Re: 50W Amp - Photo of T2 Installed

Gregg Myers
 

And zoomed in a bit more...

On Sat, Feb 29, 2020 at 6:54 PM Gregg Myers via Groups.Io <gregg.w7grm=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Mike,

Here is how mine looks. You do have to space the wires out a bit to fit into the desired locations.

73,
Gregg
w7grm


On Sat, Feb 29, 2020 at 6:04 PM Michael Lloyd <mikell@...> wrote:
Good lord... I wish there was a way to edit. My reply above should read:
The only photo of the assembled board shows a side view and no details of how the leads are routed. What I would call the top leads is pretty straight forward as long as you get the correct lead in the correct hole. The way the toroid is wound the bottom leads cross from nearly the same point as the top leads to the opposite side of the toroid. If that's how it is then I'll continue on. It doesn't look right from a board design perspective and that makes me question what I've done.

--
73
NE5U

Mike

Re: 50W Amp - Photo of T2 Installed

Gregg Myers
 

Hi Mike,

Here is how mine looks. You do have to space the wires out a bit to fit into the desired locations.

73,
Gregg
w7grm


On Sat, Feb 29, 2020 at 6:04 PM Michael Lloyd <mikell@...> wrote:
Good lord... I wish there was a way to edit. My reply above should read:
The only photo of the assembled board shows a side view and no details of how the leads are routed. What I would call the top leads is pretty straight forward as long as you get the correct lead in the correct hole. The way the toroid is wound the bottom leads cross from nearly the same point as the top leads to the opposite side of the toroid. If that's how it is then I'll continue on. It doesn't look right from a board design perspective and that makes me question what I've done.

--
73
NE5U

Mike

Re: clock and gps #clock

Rick Williams - VE7TK
 

The default coding for Line #1 and #2 are on page 5 of the manual.
Line 1: #DD#DM#DY#HB#HH:#MM:#SS
Line 2: #GV #GG F#GF T#GT S#GS
If you push the left button once it will show the contents on #1 and a 2nd time will give you the contents of #2.
Copy line 1 and 2 and then push the left button through ALL the menus until it says Right button to start!
This will let you know what is coded for lines 1 and 2. It may be that what you are seeing is what you have coded. Once we know what you have coded in Line #1 and #2 we should be able to help.
... and YES coding these lines with the push buttons is a pain (literally)!!
--
73, Rick
VE7TK

Re: 50W Amp - Photo of T2 Installed

 

Good lord... I wish there was a way to edit. My reply above should read:
The only photo of the assembled board shows a side view and no details of how the leads are routed. What I would call the top leads is pretty straight forward as long as you get the correct lead in the correct hole. The way the toroid is wound the bottom leads cross from nearly the same point as the top leads to the opposite side of the toroid. If that's how it is then I'll continue on. It doesn't look right from a board design perspective and that makes me question what I've done.

--
73
NE5U

Mike

Re: 50W Amp - Photo of T2 Installed

 

The only photo of the assembled board shows a side view and not details of how the leads are routed. What I would call the top leads is pretty straight forward as long as you get the right lead in the same hole. The way the toroid the bottom leads cross from nearly the same point as the top leads to the opposite side of the toroid. If that's how it is then I'll continue on. It doesn't look right from a board design perspective and that makes me question what I've done.

I would ask anyone to disassemble their amp just for this. 
--
73
NE5U

Mike

Re: 50W Amp - Photo of T2 Installed

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

The 7 pictures in the manual are not adquate?   They are fairly high resolution.

If not what view would be useful?  Mine is assembled right now so taking
a shot would require disassembly.

Allison
-------------------------------
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No direct email, it goes to bit bucket due address harvesting in groups.IO

50W Amp - Photo of T2 Installed

 

Does anyone have a good photo of how T2 looks when it's installed on the board. I have the leads ohmed out and marked I'm just struggling with how the underside leads traverse under the toroid from the opposite side. If that's how it's supposed why not just put traces and hols on the other side? I haven't trimmed or soldered anything yet...
--
73
NE5U

Mike

Re: 50 Watt Amp Final Transistors

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

No, none as adding lead length via sockets is a bad thing.

With popper care board damage should  not happen.

Hint if you destroy them,  disassemble, cut the leads at
the package,  (they are dead!) and extract the leads one
at a time with a sufficiently hot iron and tweezer.

Clear the holes by heating the solder and using inertia
(sudden stop while molten) should clear the hole.

Do not drill or use pins or try to poke the tip of the iron in.
That often does more damage.

Allison
-------------------------------
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Re: 50 Watt Amp Final Transistors

George Korper
 

Allison and Others,
Anyone have any tips on a way to install the finals on a temporary basis to avoid
ruining the board? That way if i have some other mistake which blows the finals
I could save a lot of grief and perhaps the rest of my work!
George

On Sat, Feb 29, 2020 at 5:04 PM George Korper via Groups.Io <georgekorper=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
BTW just ordered from Digikey.

On Sat, Feb 29, 2020, 2:48 PM ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...> wrote:
IRF510 from any source not Ebay or other random sources.

Typically  I use Digikey and Mouser, Allied,  and Jameco with zero issues.
Another is RFparts.com,  the real McCoy at real prices.

The problem with any RF device and a long list of them common to ham
and hobby use is buy cheap, get cheap counterfeits.  I buy them from known
sources usually at higher (fair) prices I get what I wanted and quality or at
least a firm I can actually go back to.

The beauty of IRF510 is typical price is well under 1.25$ each from reputable sources.
and at last buy a few weeks ago I got 10 for 88 cents each (VIshay IRF510).


Allison
-------------------------------
Please reply on list so we can share.
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Re: 50 Watt Amp Final Transistors

George Korper
 

BTW just ordered from Digikey.


On Sat, Feb 29, 2020, 2:48 PM ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...> wrote:
IRF510 from any source not Ebay or other random sources.

Typically  I use Digikey and Mouser, Allied,  and Jameco with zero issues.
Another is RFparts.com,  the real McCoy at real prices.

The problem with any RF device and a long list of them common to ham
and hobby use is buy cheap, get cheap counterfeits.  I buy them from known
sources usually at higher (fair) prices I get what I wanted and quality or at
least a firm I can actually go back to.

The beauty of IRF510 is typical price is well under 1.25$ each from reputable sources.
and at last buy a few weeks ago I got 10 for 88 cents each (VIshay IRF510).


Allison
-------------------------------
Please reply on list so we can share.
No direct email, it goes to bit bucket due address harvesting in groups.IO

Re: 50 Watt Amp Final Transistors

George Korper
 

Hi Allison,
I had a good amp that needed new
Finals. 20 meters.

 I ordered on Amazon. Put in replacements. No data, looked kind of cheap, etc.

Checked bias using current limiting supply. All ok. Pot is barely above anti clockwise 

Left practice mode. Output at 12 volts 10 watts as I raised voltage it seemed low output. At 20 volts it was working but I started to hear a ripple develop.  20 watts output for 10 seconds. This was half the output of the supplied transistors.

Then they blew and supply tripped out. 

Is this behavior consistent with poor quality mosfets?

On Sat, Feb 29, 2020, 2:48 PM ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...> wrote:
IRF510 from any source not Ebay or other random sources.

Typically  I use Digikey and Mouser, Allied,  and Jameco with zero issues.
Another is RFparts.com,  the real McCoy at real prices.

The problem with any RF device and a long list of them common to ham
and hobby use is buy cheap, get cheap counterfeits.  I buy them from known
sources usually at higher (fair) prices I get what I wanted and quality or at
least a firm I can actually go back to.

The beauty of IRF510 is typical price is well under 1.25$ each from reputable sources.
and at last buy a few weeks ago I got 10 for 88 cents each (VIshay IRF510).


Allison
-------------------------------
Please reply on list so we can share.
No direct email, it goes to bit bucket due address harvesting in groups.IO

clock and gps #clock

Don Blachura
 

Only getting half the screen on my clock. See heart and date, but
nothing else.? What failed?

Don...w2xb