Date   

Re: Any one monitoring the QRP GUYS website

Garry
 

I received a dummy antenna kit from them yesterday.  I think I heard an interview with one of them on the QSO Today podcast awhile back that said their shipping department is one of the guy's children, who get the profit, and their father only drives into town to mail the orders once a week.  Sounded like it was more of a hobby business ran for the convenience of hams who kept requesting the kits, rather than a real business venture.  So might want to wait a bit and see if they get back to you in another few days.

Thanks,

Garry
KM4DYD


On Thu, Jan 31, 2019 at 07:08 AM, Ken Bell wrote:
Does anyone know the QRP guys?  I've bought  a few thing from them over the past couple of years and am happy with their kits.  I recently bought an antenna with tuner and it was missing parts.  I've emailed them a couple of time on a couple of different email addresses over a few days and haven't heard anything from them.  Does anyone know if they are still active?   

Best regards, 

Ken
KN4DGR


Re: QCX and LiFePo Batterys all enclosed into an old ammo can...ever done before? #40m #case #enclosure

secondchancesailor
 

Hi Scuba,

I'm not exactly sure what you have in mind, but I did a similar project with my 40 meter QCX.   I built it into a plastic Harbor Freight ammo can, and included a 12 volt 7ah sealed lead acid battery. 
Photos of this project are here:  https://groups.io/g/QRPLabs/album?id=81414   and the message describing this build is here:  https://groups.io/g/QRPLabs/message/30220?p=,,,20,0,0,0::Created,,posterid%3A217823,20,2,0,28998554
The cover of the plastic ammo can be detached, if desired.   I do have a standard metal ammo can, but decided the plastic would be easier to work with.    

73,
Jim (w8ykg)


Re: Any one monitoring the QRP GUYS website

George H. Gates <w2bpi1@...>
 

Rcvd tuner kit from them. 72 Geo/W2BPI



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


40m QCX sensitivity

Steve Z
 

My 40m QCX works well with over 4 watts out and the receiver is sensitive enough to be able to hear background band static (attaching an antenna increases the noise heard). I've made lots of contacts with it and love it.

But, I've wondered if I'm getting the sensitivity that I should see. Some observations -- using an Elecraft XG-1 signal generator at 1 uV (-107 dBm), I can only just barely hear the signal injected. Also, during alignment when peaking the bandpass filter (BPF) using C1, while I have signal in the "8 range" indicating good sensitivity, adjusting C1 only varies the response by about 5 or 6 lines on the amplitude bar -- the amplitude always remains in the "8 range" independent of the setting of C1. This response is different than I have observed in the youtube videos that show the alignment procedure. But, the C1 peak occurs with the capacitor 2/3 meshed, so I believe that I have the correct number of turns on T1. My good TX power output indicates that the low pass filter is not an issue.

Shouldn't I be able to hear a 1 uV signal easily? Is my C1 alignment response a sign of something wrong with the BPF? Any suggestions?

Thanks.
Steve N9SZ


Re: Any one monitoring the QRP GUYS website

Charles W. Powell
 

I just got a noise bridge kit from them.  It was sent out promptly.  But that’s not a good way to generate business by not responding to problems.

73,

Charles - NK8O

On Jan 31, 2019, at 7:08 AM, Ken Bell <kn4dgr@...> wrote:

Does anyone know the QRP guys?  I've bought  a few thing from them over the past couple of years and am happy with their kits.  I recently bought an antenna with tuner and it was missing parts.  I've emailed them a couple of time on a couple of different email addresses over a few days and haven't heard anything from them.  Does anyone know if they are still active?   

Best regards, 

Ken
KN4DGR


Any one monitoring the QRP GUYS website

Ken Bell
 

Does anyone know the QRP guys?  I've bought  a few thing from them over the past couple of years and am happy with their kits.  I recently bought an antenna with tuner and it was missing parts.  I've emailed them a couple of time on a couple of different email addresses over a few days and haven't heard anything from them.  Does anyone know if they are still active?   

Best regards, 

Ken
KN4DGR


Re: QCX-SSB: SSB with your QCX transceiver

Kārlis Goba
 

Allison, I think you're overlooking one important point here, and that is the suitability of class C/D/E for amplification of such generated SSB signal, as I understand. It's not argued that it's somehow easier to generate - no, plus it's subject to errors of mathematical approximations (Hilbert transform, arc tangent, jitter). If you can still go 5W SSB with just 3 BS170s, that's a marvel. Even if the resulting RF stage is not very linear in the baseband, some degree of IMD can be tolerated for speech, as long as it's all within the channel.

I agree that a measurement of TX signal quality/purity is absolutely necessary.

--
Karlis YL3JG


Re: 10W PA assembly hints

Mick Hall
 

>>Where would one find it with oil?<<

Carborundum paste can be purchased for lapping in the valves on engines to get a gas tight seal in the combustion chamber.
Not that I have looked for any other type, but this is the only Carborundum I have come across.

Sorry, I have used Carborundum stones also.

73 Mick
2E0MMH

On Thursday, 31 January 2019, 03:01:35 GMT, ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...> wrote:


Geoff,
>>Be careful of using anything with Carborundum, it can leave an oily residue which can make soldering impossible<<

I have never encountered that ever.   I also have a tins of 120, 180, 240, 360 sieve
carborundum abrasive and its dry, no oil.  I used to use that for lapping gauges and
plates.  Where would one find it with oil?  

Using any abrasive paper may or may not be problematic but the stuff I've used for 
refinishing transparencies leaves nothing unless added (water being the most common). 
However stearated (dry lubricant sodium stearate) papers are common.

What one must pay attention to is that most Ferrites (type 43 and 1 being the common)
are very hard (they are ceramics) and any edges will cut, nick or scrape wires if dragged
across.  To make life easier for myself I have an assortment of stones like Arkansas,
Egypt, diamond impregnated hard abrasives for taking care of edges and in various
shapes to aid in that.

Allison


QCX and LiFePo Batterys all enclosed into an old ammo can...ever done before? #40m #case #enclosure

Steve Raas - N2JDQ - FN13DD
 

I just received my 40m QCX a few days ago, and if I did not catch a cold, have a huge list of to do's and on top of all that -34c weather, ide be building it right now. So in lieu of actually being up to the task (at the moment), I have gone into brain storming mode. Have any of you enclosed your QCX into a military ammo can with a rechargeable battery inside? I'm thinking about it with perhaps a 4800mah 13.2V LiFePo rechargeable battery. Fun fact, the battery & required charger would be 2x the cost of the kit! I digress...has any one done this? Or wanted to? More curious than anything.


Re: 10W PA assembly hints

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

Geoff,
>>Be careful of using anything with Carborundum, it can leave an oily residue which can make soldering impossible<<

I have never encountered that ever.   I also have a tins of 120, 180, 240, 360 sieve
carborundum abrasive and its dry, no oil.  I used to use that for lapping gauges and
plates.  Where would one find it with oil?  

Using any abrasive paper may or may not be problematic but the stuff I've used for 
refinishing transparencies leaves nothing unless added (water being the most common). 
However stearated (dry lubricant sodium stearate) papers are common.

What one must pay attention to is that most Ferrites (type 43 and 1 being the common)
are very hard (they are ceramics) and any edges will cut, nick or scrape wires if dragged
across.  To make life easier for myself I have an assortment of stones like Arkansas,
Egypt, diamond impregnated hard abrasives for taking care of edges and in various
shapes to aid in that.

Allison


Re: QCX-SSB: SSB with your QCX transceiver

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

Jerry,

FT8 does not even require SSB as it has no amplitude information.  PSK31
does for an example.  The 5351 can generate the tones directly so
FT8/FT8-call and friends are more of an software Encode and Decode 
issue.

Also running I2S at higher speeds is far from uncommon.  Most parts easily 
do that to the megabit/second level.  The base spec of 400khz has not kept 
up  with serial EEproms and other devices where speed is a useful attribute.

As to DDS, most of them have a phase register that might be easier to
use.  However it has to be one of the very high end parts to avoid problems
with SFDR.  Since the 9850 is pretty poor for SFDR and still nowhere as
cheap a 5351 the choices may be a matter of balance.

The other side of the coin is expensive DDS and CPUs that can do the
RX side as well as TX pushes for STN32F4 class parts and full out SDR
which avoids some of the reconstruction problems and possible errors.

Allison


Re: ProgRock Serial - flickering led

Alan G4ZFQ
 

Just be careful to dis-connect the GPS 1 pps signal before removing power to ProgRoack, I am sure that is what caused my AT tiny84 to die.
Geoff,

I'm not sure that anything would be damaged.
But it strikes me that a resistor, maybe 1K could be put in series with the data lines. I have done that before to avoid loading an output if shorted to ground. It did not affect normal operation but would limit any possibility of damage. No doubt even then LEDs could light.
Diodes might prevent operation.

73 Alan G4ZFQ


Re: QCX-SSB: SSB with your QCX transceiver

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

The mod interferes with cw ability due to the use of the key jack for the mic.
However the radio could before that.  A different mod could prevent that.  The
bigger issue is the code I've seen does not consider doing CW at all.  So
adding the code for that and software "switching" for that needs to be added. 
CW is easy compared to doing SSB.  Keep in mind its not an add to the QCX 
program its a wholesale replacement and leaves out a lot (all the built in digital
modes and CW reader) and I doubt all that would fit.

Q6 depending on the mod it may be an issue.  Doing EER means getting the
amplitude phase correct with frequency change or you get all manner of artifacts.

The IQ quadrature still can't go below 3 or was it 3.5 mhz.  I'm puzzled by Guidos
comments on that.  If the IQ VFO is not 90 degrees then the  RX still works but
as a simple DCRX without image rejection.  There are ways around that but
none trivial or compatible with current QCX code.

Its possible to mod the QCX to get better SSB image rejection using new constants
in the all pass and modifying the 200hz audio filter as something SSB friendly.

However read the file or go to the web site and read the basic methods are there.
Also the details of the mods to do it beside changing the code completely. And it was
done to test a specific idea, simple SSB using 8bit MPU and a class E amplifier
using the EER technique (synthesize frequency and amplitude and control the
NCO and Amplifier to assemble the resulting signal).

The whole thing is interesting to me but at best its an experimental project
for SSB.   It differs from the usual SDR as well.  If more cpu is needed to do
decent SSB then STM32F4 level 32bit MPU then going to the more common
SDR approaches for SSB is the better way to go and yields a cleaner signal.

What lacking is detailed testing of the transmitted signal quality and purity.  Doing
SSB this way can easily create all manor of trash on the band if minor details are
wrong.   

Allison


Re: 10W PA assembly hints

geoff M0ORE
 

I would never have thought of putting the enamelled wire through the PCB before tinning the wire. Be careful of using anything with Carborundum, it can leave an oily residue which can make soldering impossible.

Could these methods be the reason why so many builders are having problems with their assemblies. I have wound many coils with the meltable insulation and have never had a dry joint. The old method of scraping the wire is time consuming and can cause nicks in the wire, just try that method on something like 36 AWG .

Geoff

On 1/30/2019 6:17 PM, ajparent1/KB1GMX wrote:
Scraping tends to create faults and nicks in the wire and it likes to snap
off there.  Its also awkward and unreliable with fine wires.

Using the iron to melt and having it melt into the coil it self, never had this happen.
If you have that problem put down the torch, its way too hot.  Really!

Putting the wire in the hole uncleaned and heating it is also ill advised.  PC
board is already hot at soldering temps and "stripeasy" and similar generally
ends up heated more to melt the insulation and along the way adding stress
to the board and the traces.

My solution is if I need to do a lot I have a power tool that uses to counter-rotating
rubber impregnated with Carborundum wheels that does the job nicely and quickly.
It was a expensive tool new but I found it used.  For small as in a few I use a small
solder cup.  Its made with an Ungar 50W element in a vertical ceramic socket
mounted to a granite plate with a copper pipe cap as a cup, added a lamp dimmer
on the power cord to control the heat and that is fast and efficient.  Filled with solder
and a drop of flux from time to time its handy.  Caution its about an ounce of
hot molten solder and a spill can cause serious burns or damage. The granite plate
is 8x8" to give it weight and makes it hard to tip plus a non combustible surface under
it.

I do a lot of toroids and coils. Like for example three Ultimate Relay Boards and 15
band pass filters (30 toroids!).  Since Monday.

Allison


Re: ProgRock Serial - flickering led

geoff M0ORE
 

same thing happens to mine. As Alan said, small current flow through data connection most likely. I used a 8 pin socket for the programming switch and a suitable lead to connect the Arduino and ground switch 2. Never used the 4 way switch, the Arduino is so much easier.

Just be careful to dis-connect the GPS 1 pps signal before removing power to ProgRoack, I am sure that is what caused my AT tiny84 to die.

Geoff

On 1/30/2019 7:28 PM, entilleser via Groups.Io wrote:
Have my ProgRock connected to my arduino UNO, sketched as per the ProgRock Operations manual, switch 2 properly set on the ProgRock.  Boot up the arduino, power on the ProgRock, and voila, 4 flashes & firmware info appears in the monitor window.

One thing, though: with power to the ProgRock off, when I boot up (or reset) the arduino, the led on ProgRock flashes once brightly, then flickers constantly but dimly.  If I, then, apply power to the ProgRock, I get the appropriate 4 flashes, followed by firmware info.  If I switch off power to the ProgRock, led goes back to flashing dimly.  Power to ProgRock on again, gets the appropriate response again.

Anyone know what's going on?  Does it represent a danger to arduino or ProgRock?


Re: QCX-SSB: SSB with your QCX transceiver

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

The U3s does not have the  ability to alter power out by MPU control.  

Allison


Re: ProgRock Serial - flickering led

KI7MWA
 

So, I could put a diode in the line to prevent the reverse current?


Re: QCX-SSB: SSB with your QCX transceiver

freefuel@...
 

Hi Guido, do you know if this modification could also be applied to the U3S beacon? 

Thanks ,
Justin N2TOH  


Re: ProgRock Serial - flickering led

Alan G4ZFQ
 

If I switch off power to the ProgRock, led goes back to flashing dimly.  Power to ProgRock on again, gets the appropriate response again.
Anyone know what's going on?  Does it represent a danger to arduino or ProgRock?
Seems typical of where a small current flows back through a high data line.
Probably so small it has no effect but one tends to think it's best to avoid the situation.

73 Alan G4ZFQ


ProgRock Serial - flickering led

KI7MWA
 

Have my ProgRock connected to my arduino UNO, sketched as per the ProgRock Operations manual, switch 2 properly set on the ProgRock.  Boot up the arduino, power on the ProgRock, and voila, 4 flashes & firmware info appears in the monitor window.

One thing, though: with power to the ProgRock off, when I boot up (or reset) the arduino, the led on ProgRock flashes once brightly, then flickers constantly but dimly.  If I, then, apply power to the ProgRock, I get the appropriate 4 flashes, followed by firmware info.  If I switch off power to the ProgRock, led goes back to flashing dimly.  Power to ProgRock on again, gets the appropriate response again.

Anyone know what's going on?  Does it represent a danger to arduino or ProgRock?