Date   

Re: coils and glue

David Wilcox
 

I think that is paraffin wax, not bees wax as it is not slippery and has no lubricating properties.

Dave K8WPE

On Mar 10, 2018, at 11:21 PM, Michael Baker <k7ddmjb@...> wrote:

Isn't this the same stuff that Baby Bells Cheese is covered with? If so then just go to the grocery store.


Re: QCX40 #3082 is alive !

Denis F6GKQ
 

Hi all,

I removed three turns on the longest T1 winding and still no peak. Scale show 09 and all segments and trimmer is at minimum value, fully open.
What can I do now ? I'm afraid to remove more turns. 
--
73 from Denis, F6GKQ
QCX 40m nr 3082


Re: Cheap Iambic Keys

freefuel@...
 

at $80 per example Andy is giving these keys away. https://forums.qrz.com/index.php?threads/introducing-the-magnakeyer.589970/

-Justin N2TOH 


Re: OT: RE: out of specification operation with Si4721 for use on 4 Meters #parts

Cecil Bayona
 

I have 10 of the original devices, not sure when I will use them but I have them.

On 3/11/2018 3:02 AM, Alan G4ZFQ wrote:
I found this data sheet while reading up on the Silicon Labs SI4721 FM Broadcast transceiver chip, I have to ask if it can be tunes outside of it's specified range into maybe the 4 Meters band or maybe even up into
Justin,
Some of the Si Labs have been known to operate well outside their published specification.
The Si570 was one, early C grade LVDS versions went  right up to 1.2Ghz until they made the registers unavailable.
So it's not guaranteed even if someone found one that did, and I guess the Adafruit people are the ones to ask.
Seems to me a bigger problem is that these are broadcast FM, not narrowband.
73 Alan G4ZFQ


Re: OT: RE: out of specification operation with Si4721 for use on 4 Meters #parts

Alan G4ZFQ
 

I found this data sheet while reading up on the Silicon Labs SI4721 FM Broadcast transceiver chip, I have to ask if it can be tunes outside of it's specified range into maybe the 4 Meters band or maybe even up into
Justin,

Some of the Si Labs have been known to operate well outside their published specification.
The Si570 was one, early C grade LVDS versions went right up to 1.2Ghz until they made the registers unavailable.
So it's not guaranteed even if someone found one that did, and I guess the Adafruit people are the ones to ask.
Seems to me a bigger problem is that these are broadcast FM, not narrowband.

73 Alan G4ZFQ


OT: RE: out of specification operation with Si4721 for use on 4 Meters #parts

freefuel@...
 

I found this data sheet while reading up on the Silicon Labs SI4721 FM Broadcast transceiver chip, I have to ask if it can be tunes outside of it's specified range into maybe the 4 Meters band or maybe even up into the 2 meters band as well. the data sheet indicates that the stereo pilot and inputs can be disabled along with an easy way to specify the deviation of the transmitter. so far this looks like a nice little part to build a Handie Talkie around for fun. https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/datasheets/SiLabs+Programming+guide+AN332.pdf

-Justin N2TOH 


Re: coils and glue

Allen Poland
 

Thanks Doc!  ‘ppreciate your input!  I think I will go with the glue gun.  I use it for a multitude of other things and thought it might be good to anchor toroids.  But since my experience with these things have been somewhat limited, I thought I’d ask.  When I power this thing up I don’t want any copy ANY problems.  I’m at the age where I have more problems than I need! Why I decided to build this thing is beyond me.  Guess maybe I got caught up in the spirit of the thing.  J

 

From: QRPLabs@groups.io [mailto:QRPLabs@groups.io] On Behalf Of J68HZ
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 12:29 PM
To: QRPLabs@groups.io
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] coils and glue

 

I always use hot glue to secure my coils to the PCB.  Works every time and they can be removed if need be.  Rarely do they move in inductance (only at VHF+).

 

 

Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ

 

Owner - Operator

Big Signal Ranch – K9ZC

Staunton, Illinois

 

Owner – Operator

Villa Grand Piton – J68HZ

Soufriere, St. Lucia W.I.

Rent it: www.VillaGrandPiton.com

Like us on Facebook!

 

Moderator – North American QRO Yahoo Group.

 

email:  bill@...

 

 

From: QRPLabs@groups.io [mailto:QRPLabs@groups.io] On Behalf Of Allen Poland
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 11:22 AM
To: QRPLabs@groups.io
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] coils and glue

 

Michael:  Thank you for your input.  Never considered or ever used beeswax in my life.  I doubt if that stuff  is available in this “black hole” of WV!  Maybe commode seal….. I don’t know what is used here anymore. Only drawback I can see is messing up the soldering iron tip.

 

 

 

From: QRPLabs@groups.io [mailto:QRPLabs@groups.io] On Behalf Of Michael Clarke
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 9:07 AM
To: QRPLabs@groups.io
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] coils and glue

 

BEESWAX - The old-fashioned option of beeswax is perhaps best of all. It is hard, solid with smooth surface, and sets likewise, without hot glue's whiskers catching untidy all around.

Held over the target with a hot soldering iron near, it melts readily, runs and drips into place. 

Likewise, to remove, it again melts with modest heat held near.

I got mine from a hard ware shop that had supplies used by furniture makers and polishers.

Not a new idea, copied from George Dobbs's QRP writings.

And widel used in the early days of radio home construction, from before the word electronics was invented.

73 Michael Mi5MTC

 

 

On Sat, Mar 10, 2018 at 12:42 PM, Graham <planophore@...> wrote:

Al,

Both would work BUT epoxy is near impossible to remove if the need ever arises. Hot glue can be messy but many use it.

I however prefer to use nail polish; two or three applications will keep things from moving around.

Just about any kind will do but some of the premiere brands are a bit better. I like "Sally hansen Telon Tuff nail protector" only because someone else suggested this brand and after comparing to another it "seemed" to work a bit better in the way I was using it. I just get my wife to get me some when she is at the store. A couple of different colours are good for marking or identifying different things. Not very expensive, it takes about a year for me to use one small bottle and I build stuff quite a bit.

cheers, Graham ve3gtc




On 2018-03-10 05:45, Allen Poland wrote:


I’ve been wondering if hot clue or epoxy (clear) would have any detrimental effect on the LPF coils and the transformer in the QCX 20m kit?

Al


<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=icon>         Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=link>

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--

Mick Mi5mtc
LOC IO64EL
GQRP 9630
FISTS 7740


Re: coils and glue

Allen Poland
 

Copy that Michael.  Thank you.  Who said “old dogs can’t learn new tricks?”

 

From: QRPLabs@groups.io [mailto:QRPLabs@groups.io] On Behalf Of Michael Clarke
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 2:42 PM
To: QRPLabs@groups.io
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] coils and glue

 

Hi Allen - no need to mess up the soldering iron tip. The heat from being near  the tip or  body round the heating element is enough to melt beeswax. It need never touch the soldering iron tip, and if it does goes liquid and drops off. 73 Michael Mi5MTC

 

 

On Sat, Mar 10, 2018 at 5:22 PM, Allen Poland <atpoland@...> wrote:

Michael:  Thank you for your input.  Never considered or ever used beeswax in my life.  I doubt if that stuff  is available in this “black hole” of WV!  Maybe commode seal….. I don’t know what is used here anymore. Only drawback I can see is messing up the soldering iron tip.

 

 

 

From: QRPLabs@groups.io [mailto:QRPLabs@groups.io] On Behalf Of Michael Clarke
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 9:07 AM
To: QRPLabs@groups.io
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] coils and glue

 

BEESWAX - The old-fashioned option of beeswax is perhaps best of all. It is hard, solid with smooth surface, and sets likewise, without hot glue's whiskers catching untidy all around.

Held over the target with a hot soldering iron near, it melts readily, runs and drips into place. 

Likewise, to remove, it again melts with modest heat held near.

I got mine from a hard ware shop that had supplies used by furniture makers and polishers.

Not a new idea, copied from George Dobbs's QRP writings.

And widel used in the early days of radio home construction, from before the word electronics was invented.

73 Michael Mi5MTC

 

 

On Sat, Mar 10, 2018 at 12:42 PM, Graham <planophore@...> wrote:

Al,

Both would work BUT epoxy is near impossible to remove if the need ever arises. Hot glue can be messy but many use it.

I however prefer to use nail polish; two or three applications will keep things from moving around.

Just about any kind will do but some of the premiere brands are a bit better. I like "Sally hansen Telon Tuff nail protector" only because someone else suggested this brand and after comparing to another it "seemed" to work a bit better in the way I was using it. I just get my wife to get me some when she is at the store. A couple of different colours are good for marking or identifying different things. Not very expensive, it takes about a year for me to use one small bottle and I build stuff quite a bit.

cheers, Graham ve3gtc




On 2018-03-10 05:45, Allen Poland wrote:


I’ve been wondering if hot clue or epoxy (clear) would have any detrimental effect on the LPF coils and the transformer in the QCX 20m kit?

Al


<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=icon>         Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=link>

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>





 

--

Mick Mi5mtc
LOC IO64EL
GQRP 9630
FISTS 7740



 

--

Mick Mi5mtc
LOC IO64EL
GQRP 9630
FISTS 7740


Re: Local source of beeswax about anywhere

Allen Poland
 

Good to know John.  TY.  Didn’t know if beeswax was still used for that or not.

 

From: QRPLabs@groups.io [mailto:QRPLabs@groups.io] On Behalf Of radio@...
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 11:11 PM
To: QRPLabs@groups.io
Cc: Allen Poland <atpoland@...>; John <radio@...>
Subject: [QRPLabs] Local source of beeswax about anywhere

 

Hi Allen,

 

There is a sealing ring made to seal the output of a toilet to the sewer pipe directly under it.  Most hardware stores stock them.  It is a cheap source of beeswax and easy to use.

 

Also, beeswax works well to lubricate thread cutting taps and drill bits when working with aluminum. 

 

Best regards,

 

John,  WoGN

 

 


Virus-free. www.avast.com


Re: coils and glue

Michael Baker
 

Isn't this the same stuff that Baby Bells Cheese is covered with? If so then just go to the grocery store.


Local source of beeswax about anywhere

John
 

Hi Allen,

There is a sealing ring made to seal the output of a toilet to the sewer pipe directly under it.  Most hardware stores stock them.  It is a cheap source of beeswax and easy to use.

Also, beeswax works well to lubricate thread cutting taps and drill bits when working with aluminum. 

Best regards,

John,  WoGN



QCXO Questions

Giuseppe Marullo
 

Hello,

ok, I am at the stage to double check XTAL osc works before starting putting covers on it.

Questions:

1) Frequency is fine (about 26.995MHz something) but I have just about 0.36 Vpp instead of 0.6 Vpp. Is it okay or should I double check component values and so on? Waverform seems very good.

2) Is there any better method to keep BS170 and the BC547B in touch with XTAL? I think the wires won't be "elastic" enough to keep pushing. I was thinking to use maybe thermal paste (Yes it does dry over years). Any suggestion?

3) Instead of using paper, is it okay to use cotton wool? If yes, should it be used in every confined space? Any suggestion about how much? Should it be just lightly used or somewhat more thick?

Thanks.

Giuseppe Marullo

IW2JWW - JN45RQ


Re: QCX 20 #1935

Glen Sr
 

Group. Following are voltage
measurements so far.   
Supply Voltage  11.89v   
clk0  1.70v   
clk1   1.70v     
C2     3.42v   
D2 right 5.00v   
D2 left   4.20v     
D1 right  4.20v   
D1 left   3.40v   
C43    .28v   
C44    .32v   
C45      .35v   
C46     ..28v 
With power off  those 4 capacitors are open, except C44 jumps with a variable reading and goes away immediately.   
IC5-1  1.20v   
IC5-2   .30v   
IC5-3  .28v   
IC5-4  0.00v   
IC5-5  .31v   
IC5-6  .35v   
IC5-7  .98v                           
IC5-8   11.69v 
Hope this helps. Ask me some more questions. Using 10 meg input meter Thanks all. Glen N8WE   
 
 

From: Alan de G1FXB via Groups.Io
Sent: Monday, March 5, 2018 2:15 PM
To: QRPLabs@groups.io
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] QCX 20 #1935
 
Glen,
We need to see if IC4 has all of it's requirements, ie: Power & clock signals..
Check back on the previous thread title asking for some DC checks. up to IC5 using Hans voltage table for examples.
also with the unit unpowered can you measure the resistance across the capacitors, in case that highlights a problem in this block before moving forward:-

C43
C44
C45
C46

    Just to confirm, you do not have access to an oscilloscope?

regards

On 05/03/2018 18:58, Glen Sr wrote:
Alan, Alan & Group. I have rewound S1 and S2 and connected them. I now read .3 volts at pins 7 & 9 of IC4. Immediately upon power up the calibration signal is heard and is variable with gain control . My apologies for any misleading mail. Glen N8WE


Re: Cheap Iambic Keys

Jacob Farnes
 

$45~ UNI-730 China plastic paddles (left/tip and right/ring may be reverse wired for a left hand model. Poor copy-paste eBay listing may not reflect what you will get. Rewiring the jack is tight but not hard if you get one wired not the way you want.)

$50 American Morse Dirt-Cheap Paddles
$80 American Morse Porta-Paddles


Re: Soldering iron recommendations

Ken KM4NFQ <km4nfq@...>
 

This is a wiring diagram for a soldering iron temperature controller
that uses a 600W light dimmer and an outlet:


​I used an old 3-wire computer power cord, some wirenuts,
and an outlet, all of which were stuffed in a 4x4 electrical box
with a lid that was configured for a switch and an outlet.

Regards,
Ken, KM4NFQ "Not Fully Qualified"



On Sat, Mar 10, 2018 at 5:35 PM, Ken KM4NFQ <km4nfq@...> wrote:
Make a DIY temperature controller from a $5 600W light dimmer plus parts:
Plug a $10 to $15 Chinese eBay soldering iron up to it.

Temperature controlled soldering station for less than $30 USD.

I made one of these several years ago, and it works fine.
It was 'calibrated' with the thermocouple that came with my DMM.
I used a Sharpie to mark different temperatures. It's close enough for hobby work.
I do most of my soldering with the dimmer set to about 350degF.

Very easy to make. Very easy to use. Very inexpensive.

Regards,
Ken, KM4NFQ "Not Fully Qualified"




Re: Soldering iron recommendations

Ken KM4NFQ <km4nfq@...>
 

Make a DIY temperature controller from a $5 600W light dimmer plus parts:
Plug a $10 to $15 Chinese eBay soldering iron up to it.

Temperature controlled soldering station for less than $30 USD.

I made one of these several years ago, and it works fine.
It was 'calibrated' with the thermocouple that came with my DMM.
I used a Sharpie to mark different temperatures. It's close enough for hobby work.
I do most of my soldering with the dimmer set to about 350degF.

Very easy to make. Very easy to use. Very inexpensive.

Regards,
Ken, KM4NFQ "Not Fully Qualified"


On Sat, Mar 10, 2018 at 3:01 PM, David Gillooly <dgmfield@...> wrote:
I have used no name and brand name irons. I have an old weller now but it is a single temperature iron.

If you want an iron you can set the temperature two there are many options. This recent YouTube video discusses two options but also touches on performance and things to think about before buying. I imagine in the USA these irons run about $100 to $130.

EEVblog #1063 - Weller WE1010 vs Hakko FX888D Soldering Station
https://youtu.be/tlKg6rSMPEs
I do need a better iron and will consider either iron in the video.
Irons today must be able to work with SMT components as well as power transistors and voltage regulators than can come in packages with heat sinks. Thus temperature and tip selection are things to be considered. Both irons in the review are fine. Weller tips are cheaper. 







Re: QCX40 #3082 is alive !

Denis F6GKQ
 

Hi Hans,

Yes, the trimmer is nearly open and I noticed that adjustment is rather "blurred" (not sharp).
I wondered if it was possible to change the C8 value instead of removing turns on T1/S3. As it is difficult to remove some turns, I tried to change the C8 value, down to 30 then to 22 pF but there is no change.
So I understand that, now, there is no other choice than removing some turns as you suggested...
I get a good sharp resonance when I put 50 ohms load on the antenna connector, factor number at 09 quite full scale. Without the load, with no antenna connected, as stated in the manual, there is the problem...
Do you think it's due to a too high inductance value on T1/S3 ? 
 
--
73 from Denis, F6GKQ
QCX 40m nr 3082


Re: Cheap Iambic Keys

Liam Kingsmill <lumetters1@...>
 

Jack, These look like (and are priced very right) what is needed here.  Hans has included in the QCX firmware the options for a paddle and straight key.  Let his electronics form the Dahs and Dits.  Mine are shabby sounding.

Liam


On 03/10/2018 10:54 AM, jjpurdum via Groups.Io wrote:
I have a paddle set from QRP Guys and am very happy with it. They have several different models, one designed for the Elecraft machines. This one:



cost $15 and is a single level paddle. If you're packing into a remote site, consider using knurled knobs for going through the front of your rig, with matching (brass) nuts mounted on the inside of the case. That way, you can easily take it off so it wont get in the way during your hike in.


Jack, W8TEE



From: Liam Kingsmill <lumetters1@...>
To: QRPLabs@groups.io
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 1:31 PM
Subject: [QRPLabs] Cheap Iambic Keys

Continuing this cheap-sod quest to build a non-glossy HAM station, the
final (Yeah, right) item is a key.

The QCX works, (thank you, Glen) a 40 meter horizontal dipole is higher
than the house it crosses,  and my shaky right hand thinks a paddle key
would be nice.  Uniform sized dits, and all that. Those keys cost more
than the QCX.  Are there plastic Chinese kits?

Liam








Re: QCX40 T1

David
 

Hi all and, for what it is worth this was my experience of T1. When I wound T1 (which was about 2 weeks before I actually received my 40 meter kit # 2286 in December '17) I experimented with different gauge wire so I could be sure all windings would fit okay. When I was happy with the wire chosen I put a drop of superglue on the toroid to anchor the start of the winding. It was then easy to get a good tight winding. I finished the winding with another drop of superglue.  I marked the start and finish of each winding with 5mm of different coloured sleeving, brown, red, orange, yellow etc. I wound T1 as four separate windings without the loops. When I mounted T1 (which was the first component I fitted) it was easy to make sure all wires went to the correct holes on the pcb. As I fitted T1 I removed the markers.
         Because I didn't want to have to add or remove turns in the event that C1 wasn't in the middle of its travel I omitted fitting capacitor C5 (39pF on the 40 meter kit) until I actually carried out the alignment. As it happens 39pF worked okay. I have a good selection of caps with leads at the correct spacing so this cap could easily be pushed through the holes and make sufficient contact with the pcb. When the right  one was chosen I soldered it in properly. If T1 is wound as shown by Ed WA4MZS it is really quite easy.
     On the subject of varying the value of C5 I doubt that it makes much difference if L is high and C is low or vice versa. In theory the Q factor would be higher with a higher inductance but not so much so that it would be noticeable. 73's Dave M3PMG


Re: QCX40 #3082 is alive !

Hans Summers
 

Hi Denis

MDS should be lower than that... some people have measured -130dBm or better. I wonder if your trimmer capacitor is completely open? (minimum capacitance). If so, the resonance of your BPF could be off. Then you would need to remove some turns from the long winding of T1

73 Hans G0UPL
http://qrp-labs.com

On Sat, Mar 10, 2018 at 1:32 PM, Denis F6GKQ <debemails@...> wrote:
Hi !

I took time to confirm a few measurements :
U supply : 13.8 V
RX : 121 mA
TX : 462 mA
Output PWR : 3.6 W into 50 ohms load
MDS : about -117 dBm

Have fun if you start building your own QCX !

--
73 from Denis, F6GKQ