Date   
QCX+ 30 Meters

K2DB Paul Mackanos
 

Making progress, slow but sure ūüėé

Re: Mean Well OWA-120E-20, power supply for 50W amp #pa

Ben
 

I was using a RAVPower PD Pioneer 20000mAh powerbank to power the QCX @ 12V. This powerbank can deliver 5, 9, 12, 15 and 20V at 3A. Really neat. I have made a cable with a PD-trigger for 12v and one for 15v, so I can swap them easily. I now also have an Aukey PA-D4 charger that supports the same range of voltages also at 3A. They can even power a KX2 at 12W output with no problem.

I you want to read more about USB-C PD, i recommend this blog from Gwen N3GP: https://www.ng3p.com/2020/05/a-different-power-source-for-field-ham.html

The Meanwell PS is for the QCX 50W PA. Yesterday I made 3 contacts on 40mtr with it (G, EA and OK). The 50W PA was warm, but not too hot. The Meanwell PSU was feeling like room temperature. It was not dropping out, not getting hot and not buzzing along ;-)

Re: #firmware #qcx40 #firmware #qcx40

Wes AE6ZM
 

The only concern would be that your problem is caused by a damaged uP and that was caused by a problem on the board. If so, then the second uP may well receive damage too. Check voltage with original uP in place to make sure Vcc is only 5v.
--
> I finally got it all together...now I can't remember where I put it<

VY 73,
Wes

AE6ZM

Sierra Vista, AZ

 

Re: Mean Well OWA-120E-20, power supply for 50W amp #pa

Armin, DJ2AG
 

USB-C Power supplies or powerbanks can deliver up to 20V. Devices negotiate with the power supply what max. voltage they can handle. If you want to use these power supplies with other devices not capable of communicating their power needs you can use  a USB-C PD trigger module, which is plugged between power supply and e.g. a QCX.

But I don’t see how such a module will be of use with the Meanwell PS. Maybe Ben uses a Powerbank for the QCX.

Armin, DJ2AG

Re: Mean Well OWA-120E-20, power supply for 50W amp #pa

Shirley Dulcey KE1L
 

A USB-PD trigger is not actually a power supply. It's a small board that you plug into a USB-C power source (AC adapter or battery power bank) that pretends to be a device that is requesting power delivery at the specified voltage and current. You then plug your non-USB device (like a radio) into it to get power. USB-PD power adapters are becoming more common, so I expect them to become a popular way to power low power ham radio equipment; the spec is limited to 100W so 50W transmitters are probably about the limit, and at that power level you're going to need an efficient transmitter. (Not your typical mainstream 100W transceiver, which uses 250W or so from the power supply to produce its 100W output and would probably be even less efficient at 50W out.)

USB Power Delivery version 1 offered three fixed voltages: 5V, 12V, and 20V. Version 2 offered four: 5V, 9V, 15V, and 20V. (12V was dropped for some reason, though a device designed for USB-PD 2.0 might also have backward compatibility with USB-PD 1.0 and offer that voltage.) The current version 3 allows the device that requests power to ask for any voltage between 5V and 20V in 20mV steps. Not all power sources implement that, and a source can reply that it is incapable of supplying the voltage and current that have been requested. Small adapters for phones and tablets, for example, usually don't go all the way up to 20V.

If you want to use a USB-C power source to run your radio, you'll need to test it to determine whether it can supply your power demands, in addition to the usual checks for RF noise and voltage regulation under big swings in load such as keying a transmitter. Most uses of those adapters don't have such large rapid swings in power draw so they may not handle them gracefully.

On Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 9:02 AM Dirk Räder <dirk@...> wrote:
I suppose that's a step-up converter from 5V USB-C Power Delivery, which supplies around 100W. With a decent converter, that's more than enough power for QRP.

73, Dirk DB6EDR

Am Di., 14. Juli 2020 um 14:30 Uhr schrieb Ben Bangerter, K0IKR via groups.io <bwbangerter=yahoo.com@groups.io>:
On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 02:14 PM, Ben wrote:
‚ÄĒ a USB-C PD trigger @12V ‚ÄĒ
What on earth is that?

73, Ben  K0IKR



--
Dirk Räder DB6EDR
Morissestr. 7
26180 Rastede
M: +49-176-60835036

Re: Mean Well OWA-120E-20, power supply for 50W amp #pa

Dirk Räder
 

I suppose that's a step-up converter from 5V USB-C Power Delivery, which supplies around 100W. With a decent converter, that's more than enough power for QRP.

73, Dirk DB6EDR

Am Di., 14. Juli 2020 um 14:30 Uhr schrieb Ben Bangerter, K0IKR via groups.io <bwbangerter=yahoo.com@groups.io>:

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 02:14 PM, Ben wrote:
‚ÄĒ a USB-C PD trigger @12V ‚ÄĒ
What on earth is that?

73, Ben  K0IKR



--
Dirk Räder DB6EDR
Morissestr. 7
26180 Rastede
M: +49-176-60835036

Re: Mean Well OWA-120E-20, power supply for 50W amp #pa

Ben Bangerter, K0IKR
 

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 02:14 PM, Ben wrote:
‚ÄĒ a USB-C PD trigger @12V ‚ÄĒ
What on earth is that?

73, Ben  K0IKR

Re: KIT LPF

bernard BREYNE
 

Thank you I just ordered from the ex. Thank you.


Le mar. 14 juil. 2020 à 11:47, Bob Benedict, KD8CGH <rkayakr@...> a écrit :
Bernard
  The J P Waters post above has a link. To buy one you email Lex, PH2LB as stated on that page.
Click on the link - "Use contact form if your interested." to get his email address.
--
  73
    KD8CGH

Re: KIT LPF

Bob Benedict, KD8CGH
 

Bernard
  The J P Waters post above has a link. To buy one you email Lex, PH2LB as stated on that page.
Click on the link - "Use contact form if your interested." to get his email address.
--
  73
    KD8CGH

Re: Change Request.

namerati@...
 

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 04:36:16PM -0700, dl2arl@... wrote:
The weird thing about the new qcx+ manual compared to the old, to ALL old qrp-labs manuals, is the fact, that, printed B&W, there is no way to distinguish between the B&W correspondent "colour" (or shade of gray) of what was supposed to be RED (meaning THE component the story is about on the actual page) and the rest of the gray shaded components on the board that were bespoken somewhen ahead or the ones that will be named hereafter.

This way, for me, I have the choice between the devil and beelzebub. Either do I take it the hard way and identify the components by myself using the schematics just as I would do with a kit not sporting  to a HeathKitLevel manual, or ...

well, I must confess, I am so penny wise, I do not own a PC in my "lab" where the soldering iron smokes. The normal way would probably be to solder the components in front of some fancy tablet I can wipe with my fingers across. But I have none, not in my soldering shack. This remains my own, self determined miserly condition.
I noticed this as well. Solution for me was to use an old laptop that fortunately had a very large screen, so I could zoom in to the manual.

But printed paper is always nicer!

Re: Change Request.

dl2arl@...
 

Yess! it is senseless, but I do this since I came from school and I still make a living from it: doing dumb *CHANGE REQUESTS nobody cares about (I am qrl wise in a testing environment).

It is senseless, but with the disclaimer: "to whom it might concern" this might have an impact of some kind.

With the otherwise splendid qcx+ manual, qrp-labs does S P O I L it's customers by writing the assembly instructs  as such, as the kit-builders can smoothly switch their brains off and solder on, page for page, component for component w/o the need of a single neuronal balance of their own: soldering by numbers. If there is one weird resistor, one single one, there's a special page for it, showing you not only where but even how to plant it and from which side to solder it down w/o burning your fingers.

So far so good. Very good indeed!

But for me, qrp is a state of the mind and the mind reaches deep into my wallet. I do not have a color printer, do not envy one and I would probably catch some avaricious cough if I would have to go to a copy shop and let the  manual get printed there. No kidding, you can call me names, but I stay put: it's black&white for me and if you want me to be mean, I take B&W  in two separate glasses, with ice, stirred please, no shake... and an olive. Or was that a vermouth?: who cares: I was speaking about the qcx+ RTFmanual print-out.

So far so good: it stays personal.

The weird thing about the new qcx+ manual compared to the old, to ALL old qrp-labs manuals, is the fact, that, printed B&W, there is no way to distinguish between the B&W correspondent "colour" (or shade of gray) of what was supposed to be RED (meaning THE component the story is about on the actual page) and the rest of the gray shaded components on the board that were bespoken somewhen ahead or the ones that will be named hereafter.

This way, for me, I have the choice between the devil and beelzebub. Either do I take it the hard way and identify the components by myself using the schematics just as I would do with a kit not sporting  to a HeathKitLevel manual, or ...

well, I must confess, I am so penny wise, I do not own a PC in my "lab" where the soldering iron smokes. The normal way would probably be to solder the components in front of some fancy tablet I can wipe with my fingers across. But I have none, not in my soldering shack. This remains my own, self determined miserly condition.

In this final scenario, having no color display whatever in the soldering shack does lead to a loooong session spent alongside of the PC the computer room upstairs (a comfort issue)  with a red pencil in my hand drawing circles around the components that should be red on the printout although they are as gray as can be, compared to those that should be gray for true.

That's my seamless, needlessly senseless story: to whom it might concern. I'm half'way down with the red pencil trough the B&W print-out I sip out of two separate glasses with ice please, stirred, no shake, so that it's of no concern for me if it will concern some other body. With an olive please; or was that for a vermouth?

The manual is good as it is. It is almost too perfect: it is ME that I have a problem with my avariciously determined color qrp blindness. It remains a state of the mind. And for some old-fashioned reason of mine, I love, I persist in liking working after paper print-outs, not after digital displays. The ones you can draw nasty things upon; with a pencil and colofonium fat fingers. Try this with a mouse...!"§$%&//()=?\?\

Yours friendly, Razvan DL2ARL.

Re: 50 Watt PA Rev. 2

George Korper
 

Got it. Hearing again. Thank you all.


On Mon, Jul 13, 2020, 3:12 PM George Korper via groups.io <georgekorper=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Ron,

Looks like a bad trace between D3 and D5. I can see it under magnification.
Again you astonish me!

Alll Best 73,
George

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 3:10 PM Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:
George, check continuity from the input connector to one side of C1 and from the other side of C1 to the anode of D3, then pull out the jumper wire and fix whichever trace isn’t electrically there. Sounds like you’ve found it. 

Ron

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 11:51 George Korper <georgekorper@...> wrote:
When I squeeze the board in the vicinity of C1, it picks up....
I changed both capacitors and resoldered the BNC to no avail.
Someday I will hardwire...hee hee. 

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 2:09 PM George Korper <georgekorper@...> wrote:
Ron, 


D5 is very low. 07 volts  D3 is .7volts. I Changed D5. No change. 
Maybe C16 is bad...I'll try changing it.. I never did like the way it is too large  Hi Hi. 

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 12:55 PM Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:
George, that sounds right. Now, while in receive mode check the voltage drop across D3 and then across D5. Both should show 0.6 volts or so of drop. If that's good then the problem is elsewhere. All that's left of this part of the circuit are C1 and C16. You might want to check and make sure they are indeed 1 uF ... (105) just to be sure... Good luck...Ron

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 9:23 AM ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...> wrote:
RX attenuated...  

Q3 and Q5 are RX switching, they only have DC and during RX.

The drain of Q3 should have near 0 volts (less than 1) during RX.
gate of Q3 should have More than 6V.

IF gate of Q6 is not at least 6V during RX check Q5 gate of
Q5 should be 0 Volts or very close to that.
If that is not true check what is wired to jack X2 (Keying) or
possible Q6 in wrong or has a shorted solder connection.

Allison
-------------------------------
Please reply on list so we can share.
No private email, it goes to a bit bucket due address harvesting

Re: 50 Watt PA Rev. 2

George Korper
 

Ron,

Looks like a bad trace between D3 and D5. I can see it under magnification.
Again you astonish me!

Alll Best 73,
George

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 3:10 PM Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:
George, check continuity from the input connector to one side of C1 and from the other side of C1 to the anode of D3, then pull out the jumper wire and fix whichever trace isn’t electrically there. Sounds like you’ve found it. 

Ron

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 11:51 George Korper <georgekorper@...> wrote:
When I squeeze the board in the vicinity of C1, it picks up....
I changed both capacitors and resoldered the BNC to no avail.
Someday I will hardwire...hee hee. 

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 2:09 PM George Korper <georgekorper@...> wrote:
Ron, 


D5 is very low. 07 volts  D3 is .7volts. I Changed D5. No change. 
Maybe C16 is bad...I'll try changing it.. I never did like the way it is too large  Hi Hi. 

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 12:55 PM Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:
George, that sounds right. Now, while in receive mode check the voltage drop across D3 and then across D5. Both should show 0.6 volts or so of drop. If that's good then the problem is elsewhere. All that's left of this part of the circuit are C1 and C16. You might want to check and make sure they are indeed 1 uF ... (105) just to be sure... Good luck...Ron

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 9:23 AM ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...> wrote:
RX attenuated...  

Q3 and Q5 are RX switching, they only have DC and during RX.

The drain of Q3 should have near 0 volts (less than 1) during RX.
gate of Q3 should have More than 6V.

IF gate of Q6 is not at least 6V during RX check Q5 gate of
Q5 should be 0 Volts or very close to that.
If that is not true check what is wired to jack X2 (Keying) or
possible Q6 in wrong or has a shorted solder connection.

Allison
-------------------------------
Please reply on list so we can share.
No private email, it goes to a bit bucket due address harvesting

Re: 50 Watt PA Rev. 2

Ronald Taylor
 

George, check continuity from the input connector to one side of C1 and from the other side of C1 to the anode of D3, then pull out the jumper wire and fix whichever trace isn’t electrically there. Sounds like you’ve found it. 

Ron

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 11:51 George Korper <georgekorper@...> wrote:
When I squeeze the board in the vicinity of C1, it picks up....
I changed both capacitors and resoldered the BNC to no avail.
Someday I will hardwire...hee hee. 

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 2:09 PM George Korper <georgekorper@...> wrote:
Ron, 


D5 is very low. 07 volts  D3 is .7volts. I Changed D5. No change. 
Maybe C16 is bad...I'll try changing it.. I never did like the way it is too large  Hi Hi. 

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 12:55 PM Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:
George, that sounds right. Now, while in receive mode check the voltage drop across D3 and then across D5. Both should show 0.6 volts or so of drop. If that's good then the problem is elsewhere. All that's left of this part of the circuit are C1 and C16. You might want to check and make sure they are indeed 1 uF ... (105) just to be sure... Good luck...Ron

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 9:23 AM ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...> wrote:
RX attenuated...  

Q3 and Q5 are RX switching, they only have DC and during RX.

The drain of Q3 should have near 0 volts (less than 1) during RX.
gate of Q3 should have More than 6V.

IF gate of Q6 is not at least 6V during RX check Q5 gate of
Q5 should be 0 Volts or very close to that.
If that is not true check what is wired to jack X2 (Keying) or
possible Q6 in wrong or has a shorted solder connection.

Allison
-------------------------------
Please reply on list so we can share.
No private email, it goes to a bit bucket due address harvesting

Re: 50 Watt PA Rev. 2

George Korper
 

When I squeeze the board in the vicinity of C1, it picks up....
I changed both capacitors and resoldered the BNC to no avail.
Someday I will hardwire...hee hee. 

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 2:09 PM George Korper <georgekorper@...> wrote:
Ron, 


D5 is very low. 07 volts  D3 is .7volts. I Changed D5. No change. 
Maybe C16 is bad...I'll try changing it.. I never did like the way it is too large  Hi Hi. 

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 12:55 PM Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:
George, that sounds right. Now, while in receive mode check the voltage drop across D3 and then across D5. Both should show 0.6 volts or so of drop. If that's good then the problem is elsewhere. All that's left of this part of the circuit are C1 and C16. You might want to check and make sure they are indeed 1 uF ... (105) just to be sure... Good luck...Ron

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 9:23 AM ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...> wrote:
RX attenuated...  

Q3 and Q5 are RX switching, they only have DC and during RX.

The drain of Q3 should have near 0 volts (less than 1) during RX.
gate of Q3 should have More than 6V.

IF gate of Q6 is not at least 6V during RX check Q5 gate of
Q5 should be 0 Volts or very close to that.
If that is not true check what is wired to jack X2 (Keying) or
possible Q6 in wrong or has a shorted solder connection.

Allison
-------------------------------
Please reply on list so we can share.
No private email, it goes to a bit bucket due address harvesting

Mean Well OWA-120E-20, power supply for 50W amp #pa

Ben
 

Hi all,

Just want to let you know my experience with this Mean Well OWA-120E-20 PSU. The output is 20V, 6A. The PSU has protections for short circuit, overload, over voltage and over temperature.

First I tried a cheap Korad KD3005D linear power supply, but that one was humming/buzzing along with my morse code. This one is completely silent.

I connected the QCX via a USB-C PD trigger @12V, the output was just a bit more than 3 Watt. Connected the QCX PA with this PSU (see attached photo). I was listening to a close by on-line SDR receiver, and with the PA the signal went up by 10dB. When I have an SWR meter, I will measure it. At the moment i only have a QRP SWR meter ^_^


73, Ben
PA2ST

Re: 50 Watt PA Rev. 2

George Korper
 

Ron, 


D5 is very low. 07 volts  D3 is .7volts. I Changed D5. No change. 
Maybe C16 is bad...I'll try changing it.. I never did like the way it is too large  Hi Hi. 

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 12:55 PM Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:
George, that sounds right. Now, while in receive mode check the voltage drop across D3 and then across D5. Both should show 0.6 volts or so of drop. If that's good then the problem is elsewhere. All that's left of this part of the circuit are C1 and C16. You might want to check and make sure they are indeed 1 uF ... (105) just to be sure... Good luck...Ron

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 9:23 AM ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...> wrote:
RX attenuated...  

Q3 and Q5 are RX switching, they only have DC and during RX.

The drain of Q3 should have near 0 volts (less than 1) during RX.
gate of Q3 should have More than 6V.

IF gate of Q6 is not at least 6V during RX check Q5 gate of
Q5 should be 0 Volts or very close to that.
If that is not true check what is wired to jack X2 (Keying) or
possible Q6 in wrong or has a shorted solder connection.

Allison
-------------------------------
Please reply on list so we can share.
No private email, it goes to a bit bucket due address harvesting

Re: 50 Watt PA Rev. 2

Ronald Taylor
 

George, that sounds right. Now, while in receive mode check the voltage drop across D3 and then across D5. Both should show 0.6 volts or so of drop. If that's good then the problem is elsewhere. All that's left of this part of the circuit are C1 and C16. You might want to check and make sure they are indeed 1 uF ... (105) just to be sure... Good luck...Ron


On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 9:23 AM ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...> wrote:
RX attenuated...  

Q3 and Q5 are RX switching, they only have DC and during RX.

The drain of Q3 should have near 0 volts (less than 1) during RX.
gate of Q3 should have More than 6V.

IF gate of Q6 is not at least 6V during RX check Q5 gate of
Q5 should be 0 Volts or very close to that.
If that is not true check what is wired to jack X2 (Keying) or
possible Q6 in wrong or has a shorted solder connection.

Allison
-------------------------------
Please reply on list so we can share.
No private email, it goes to a bit bucket due address harvesting

Re: 50 Watt PA Rev. 2

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

RX attenuated...  

Q3 and Q5 are RX switching, they only have DC and during RX.

The drain of Q3 should have near 0 volts (less than 1) during RX.
gate of Q3 should have More than 6V.

IF gate of Q6 is not at least 6V during RX check Q5 gate of
Q5 should be 0 Volts or very close to that.
If that is not true check what is wired to jack X2 (Keying) or
possible Q6 in wrong or has a shorted solder connection.

Allison
-------------------------------
Please reply on list so we can share.
No private email, it goes to a bit bucket due address harvesting

Re: 50 Watt PA Rev. 2

George Korper
 

Ron, assuming I have pin- out correct..

Gate:13.85
Drain .05
Source: 0000

Looking at board bottom with hole in Mosfet on the top, that is reading from right to left


On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 11:27 AM George Korper via groups.io <georgekorper=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thank you. Will check Q3. 
BTW I have never  seen 50 watts on 20. Maybe 30+  watts at 20 volts. 
All the output functions including transformers appear to be okay. 

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 10:49 AM Ronald Taylor <wa7gil@...> wrote:
Hi George. Did you check if Q3 is functioning? On receive the gate of Q3 should be high and the drain should be low. 

Ron

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 7:41 AM Ralf Rosche <ralf.rosche@...> wrote:
Hi George,
output ok means 50W+ ?
If so, the transformers should be correct direction, pease check this twice. 

And there is no short with the ferrit of the torroids in case the enamel of the wire could be damaged?
Check with ohmmeter must be somewhat above some MOhms.

May be one of the pin diode is faulty, or wrong direction?
They are responsible for RX/TX switching.
Hans had a nice description of the functionality in his manual. 

Ralf