Re: Winding QCX T1 #t1 #qcx


Also, no matter how I remove the enamel coating, I always check the leads with my DVM for continuity, just to make sure. I prefer to gently scrape the coating off with a box cutter, taking care not to nick the wire. To me, burning it off smells like feet...not my favorite.

Jack, W8TEE

On Thursday, August 23, 2018, 3:36:43 PM EDT, Alan <g8lco1@...> wrote:

Writing anything to this group  demands a little thought, most people seem to be starting in the hobby so don’t have the experience or piles of materials that others have.


A little enamel residue is not very significant but burning off the insulation is not a great idea from a respiration viewpoint, you also coat the copper with oxide which hinders soldering. An easy way of abrading off a little of the enamel is to use a tiny piece of fine sandpaper /wet & dry/ diamond file  to scratch the coating, solder and heat will do the rest. It is the work of a moment to tin a suitable enamelled wire-  not a big effort. But I do avoid breathing in the fume from the enamel- best avoided.


There are VERY MANY specialised coatings for motor windings and scan coils. Some are double layer, you wind the coil then heat with a high current to fuse the outer layers together, some coils are wound  using a  hot lacquer  spray during winding which is very solid indeed. Windings in induction motors can be malleted in place then varnished. But the majority of low cost wires are low temp self fluxing/ Solder through types- at least the ones made in the last 50 years. I would avoid the older dark varnishes- you might wind something complicated then discover that the brittle old enamel has caused an internal short.


Simple coils that are loose wound can be a useful source of wire but if the windings are glued together then that’s for the scrap yard.

Buying a few reels of enamelled wire is not very expensive, once you are electronically hooked such stock allows you to have a very interesting time in the years to come.


Good luck,




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