Re: Graphite or Roller Release Bearing?

Kevin McLemore

Yep, I’m with you, Harry - graphite T/O bearings have always been fine in my builds. But as noted, it’s important also to have all the mechanical bits be sorted properly, so it’s good to change out the bushings and making sure the fulcrum pins are not excessively worn. Also be sure to check the arm for cracks - this isn’t usually a problem on B’s but I’ve seen it in TR’s a lot. I’d also ensure you’ve got the proper return spring on the slave (but not all installations use one). 

The best ways to save a clutch pressure plate and throw-out bearing, which you probably already do, is to only put your foot on the clutch when you need to change gears, never hold the pedal down at lights and never rest your foot on the pedal whilst driving. 


On Sep 29, 2020, at 11:05 AM, Harry Hurst <h.hurst@...> wrote:

When I had my shop we always used the graphite. We did try rollers several times and they failed more than once. The graphite is tried and true. IMHO. 

Harry Hurst
(610) 725-9600

On Sep 29, 2020, at 10:51 AM, Roger Searle via <searlerb@...> wrote:

The clutch came apart in my '71 MGB GT and is being replaced.

I've always had good service from graphite release bearings but I'm leaning towards roller.  My concern is that
if the bearing does not travel and engage perfectly concentrically to the power shaft there will be scrubbing and wear on the bearing.  Which I think is
the reason the factory used graphite.  Thoughts/experience?

Also while the engine and bell housing are pulled apart are they other things I should check and replace?



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