Topics

Westerfield GRA


Bruce Smith
 

Folks,

Getting back to some old projects, while waiting for H25 paint to dry, I dug out the Westerfield GRA that I had started back when we were doing that project. I had sanded the sides and end to length, installed the grab irons on the ends, and put the pieces into a right angle clamp and glued the pieces with CA. As luck would have it, the underbody casting was a nearly a perfect fit, and with a just a little sanding with the right sander (keeps things perfectly square when sanding) it fits perfectly.

Interestingly, the directions on this kit are a bit vague when to place some items, like the reinforcing straps on the last two panels of each side...but I think I have it figured out!  

Working with grey resin is such a relief after so much white resin! 

Regards,
Bruce 
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


Bruce Smith
 

Folks,

More progress on the Westerfield GRA while waiting for paint to dry on the H25s, and ignoring work...

First, some of you may remember from the FM project just how much I LOVE to deal with stake pockets. The GRA was built with stake pockets on the outside of the boards. These were removed over the course of several years, spanning the ending of WWII. While I need a fleet of these cars, I need at least one or two with these stake pockets. The way Westerfield does this is to make the side of the car with two projections sticking out. This gets capped with a TINY resin piece that has a lip to help it fit between the side of the pocket. Yeah... Less than 10 seconds after trimming the 1st one off it vanished. The second vanished nearly as quickly. Part of the problem is that the two pieces sticking out from the side need to be spread slightly, but be careful because they also LOVE to break off. I did mange to get a couple on. It helps to put a very small amount of something sticky on the verticals. I used Eileen's Tacky Glue, which is a "white glue" like glue.

And then I gave up in frustration. And notices that at least one piece of one of the pockets had broken off. <SIGH> Then I had a plan. That one that was broken? Well, this car is ready to have these removed anyway, so I shave it all off and drilled 2 holes where it would have been attached. I'll weather that spot to look like recently exposed wood that was behind the fitting. 

So, how to deal with these pockets? I wasn't in the mood to shave them all off (we'll, I was getting close to that mood!). I grabbed a piece of 0.010" x 0.030" strip styrene... and it the 0.0130" dimensions was pretty close to spot on for the stake pocket. I cut a whole bunch of pieces just a bit longer than the pocket, touched dates of tacky glue on the sides, and then attached the styrene, carefully lining it up. Once I had one side done, I went back and used a wire to add thin CA to each one. Don't forget the 4 pockets on the steel reinforcing panel that will go on the 2nd panel from the end. Once the CA was dry, I careful filed the end flush with the side of the pocket. I did break 2 other pockets. To fix these, I used a piece of  styrene "L" to make both the side and end of the pocket. These don't look quite as nice as the others, but, when painted, you'll never know which ones they are 😉

When that was all done, I added the steel panels. I shaved off the rivet on the side stake, and then carefully sanded the panel to length so that it would easily fit. Then I glued it with the bottom of the panel flush with the bottom of the top board. 

On the B-end of the left side, I glued the Tichy retainer valve to the steel panel. The contrasting color of the retainer makes it super easy to see. 

As I noted in a previous post, the floor fit the body pretty well. I cleaned up the center sill pieces and made sure that they fit the slot in the floor and then glued them in place. It helps to use the bolsters as spacers. I even glued one in place and then fit the centersills in. Much later, I realized that the centersills had crept inward when I installed the cross members. It might be wise to add spacers between the two center sill parts. With the sills in, I glued down both bolsters, drilled a hole for a 2-56 screw in the bolster cover and glued the on, centered over the hole in the bolster. The straight side of the bolster cover faces the end of the car. It will only touch the bolster in the center. Then I touched some CA to the underside of the cover and held it into the bolster to bind. Note that the cover needs to be thin enough, so remove flash by sanding the back of the cover. I drilled the truck screw holes all the way through.

Then I glued the floor into the car. The reason to do this now, and not earlier, is so that the center sill make the part more rigid. WARNING. Make sure that the slots in the under frame are on the correct side!  Looking at the B-end, they should be to the left side. Once the floor was tacked in place, I ran a beed of thin CA in the entire joint. THAT"S NOT COMING APART!

Then I installed the cross ties and cross bearers. The cross ties are "C" channel. There are 2 sizes. The smaller ones go at each end. Drill a hole where the dimple is in half of the cross ties. The cross bearers are the trapezoids with feet <G>. They also have a drilling dimple in the rivet line at the fat end. All of these pieces will need to be trimmed/sanded to fit. They should fit easily and not have pressure as that will distort the center sill. The open end of the cross ties goes against the center sill. Looking at the brake diagram in Mainline Modeler, the air line runs down the left side of the centersill until after the cross tie closest to the B-end, where it crosses over to the other side. IN retrospect, I probably ought to have threaded the brake line on the cross ties and cross bearers BEFORE installation, but live and learn... Anyway, they are all in place now.

Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


greg snook
 

Neat work@
I was VERY glad not to need the stake pockets on mine :)
Greg Snook

On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 6:47 PM Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:
Folks,

More progress on the Westerfield GRA while waiting for paint to dry on the H25s, and ignoring work...

First, some of you may remember from the FM project just how much I LOVE to deal with stake pockets. The GRA was built with stake pockets on the outside of the boards. These were removed over the course of several years, spanning the ending of WWII. While I need a fleet of these cars, I need at least one or two with these stake pockets. The way Westerfield does this is to make the side of the car with two projections sticking out. This gets capped with a TINY resin piece that has a lip to help it fit between the side of the pocket. Yeah... Less than 10 seconds after trimming the 1st one off it vanished. The second vanished nearly as quickly. Part of the problem is that the two pieces sticking out from the side need to be spread slightly, but be careful because they also LOVE to break off. I did mange to get a couple on. It helps to put a very small amount of something sticky on the verticals. I used Eileen's Tacky Glue, which is a "white glue" like glue.

And then I gave up in frustration. And notices that at least one piece of one of the pockets had broken off. <SIGH> Then I had a plan. That one that was broken? Well, this car is ready to have these removed anyway, so I shave it all off and drilled 2 holes where it would have been attached. I'll weather that spot to look like recently exposed wood that was behind the fitting. 

So, how to deal with these pockets? I wasn't in the mood to shave them all off (we'll, I was getting close to that mood!). I grabbed a piece of 0.010" x 0.030" strip styrene... and it the 0.0130" dimensions was pretty close to spot on for the stake pocket. I cut a whole bunch of pieces just a bit longer than the pocket, touched dates of tacky glue on the sides, and then attached the styrene, carefully lining it up. Once I had one side done, I went back and used a wire to add thin CA to each one. Don't forget the 4 pockets on the steel reinforcing panel that will go on the 2nd panel from the end. Once the CA was dry, I careful filed the end flush with the side of the pocket. I did break 2 other pockets. To fix these, I used a piece of  styrene "L" to make both the side and end of the pocket. These don't look quite as nice as the others, but, when painted, you'll never know which ones they are 😉

When that was all done, I added the steel panels. I shaved off the rivet on the side stake, and then carefully sanded the panel to length so that it would easily fit. Then I glued it with the bottom of the panel flush with the bottom of the top board. 

On the B-end of the left side, I glued the Tichy retainer valve to the steel panel. The contrasting color of the retainer makes it super easy to see. 

As I noted in a previous post, the floor fit the body pretty well. I cleaned up the center sill pieces and made sure that they fit the slot in the floor and then glued them in place. It helps to use the bolsters as spacers. I even glued one in place and then fit the centersills in. Much later, I realized that the centersills had crept inward when I installed the cross members. It might be wise to add spacers between the two center sill parts. With the sills in, I glued down both bolsters, drilled a hole for a 2-56 screw in the bolster cover and glued the on, centered over the hole in the bolster. The straight side of the bolster cover faces the end of the car. It will only touch the bolster in the center. Then I touched some CA to the underside of the cover and held it into the bolster to bind. Note that the cover needs to be thin enough, so remove flash by sanding the back of the cover. I drilled the truck screw holes all the way through.

Then I glued the floor into the car. The reason to do this now, and not earlier, is so that the center sill make the part more rigid. WARNING. Make sure that the slots in the under frame are on the correct side!  Looking at the B-end, they should be to the left side. Once the floor was tacked in place, I ran a beed of thin CA in the entire joint. THAT"S NOT COMING APART!

Then I installed the cross ties and cross bearers. The cross ties are "C" channel. There are 2 sizes. The smaller ones go at each end. Drill a hole where the dimple is in half of the cross ties. The cross bearers are the trapezoids with feet <G>. They also have a drilling dimple in the rivet line at the fat end. All of these pieces will need to be trimmed/sanded to fit. They should fit easily and not have pressure as that will distort the center sill. The open end of the cross ties goes against the center sill. Looking at the brake diagram in Mainline Modeler, the air line runs down the left side of the centersill until after the cross tie closest to the B-end, where it crosses over to the other side. IN retrospect, I probably ought to have threaded the brake line on the cross ties and cross bearers BEFORE installation, but live and learn... Anyway, they are all in place now.

Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


Doug Kisala
 

Hello list,

I've gotten farsighted as I've gotten older.  If you're having trouble seeing things on resin kits with white parts, I suggest priming them in a gray color.  Side note:  I bought an opti-visor from Micro-Mark that helps me see the little things in decent focus again.  

After washing my resin kit parts and letting them dry, I paint them Polly Scale's E-L gray as a primer.  Since this is out of production, I'll have to figure out another medium gray color soon.   This does make finding the starter hole locations for grab irons and other wire details a lot easier.

Doug Kisala

On Friday, May 1, 2020, 08:38:42 AM PDT, Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:

(snip)

Working with grey resin is such a relief after so much white resin! 



Bruce Smith
 

Folks,
Yet more progress on the Westerfield GRA, mostly underneath the car. The included Tichy AB brakes are really pretty too small so I substituted a set of Detail Associates AB brake parts. First, I inserted the train line pieces made from 0.015" brass wire. I drilled holes in the center sill for the bent ends. The short piece is stuck into a hole in the bolster as well. I drilled holes in the AB reservoir and mounted it on the floor. Likewise the AB valve and cylinder were glued to the floor, the cylinder with a 0.020" spacer underneath. I drilled holes in the center sill for the lines between the reservoir and valve. I bent these lines from 0.012" brass wire, but I didn't try to make it one piece, so each line is actually 2 pieces. I glued the brake levers on and glued a piece of 0.012" wire between the two levers. I drilled a hole in the cross bearer, glued a turnbuckle onto 0.012" wire, cut one end off and then glued that to the lever to model the connection to the hand brake.

I'd already drilled out the bolsters, so I test mounted a set of Kadee 2D-F8 trucks with a 2-56 screw. I took the coupler pocket covers and test fit them. To get them to work, I had to trim off the "ears" and actually carve away some of the lid. There was another problem in that the end casting interfered with the coupler so I had to shave it away to be even with the bottom of the floor. I drilled a hole for a 1-72 screw in the coupler box and mounted Kadee #178 whisker couplers. I tested the coupler height and it was spot on so I took the trucks and couplers off for now.

Regards,
Bruce 
Bruce Smith
Auburn, Al


Bruce Smith
 

More GRA progress.  I grit blasted and washed the entire car. When it was dry, I applied several coats of my new FF mix of Vallejo paint. Once that was dry, I applied Future for a gloss clear coat. Next are decals!

I do plan on a real wood floor...

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


Bruce Smith
 

Folks,

A little side track on the GRA. Back when we did this project,I wanted to make a wire reel car for my wire train. I had a GRA in MOW grey that I had already built. The wire reel cars had wood structures that allowed multiple reels of wire to be supported and used to string catenary. I puttered around some trying to make these supports, but was never happy. This week, while waiting for paint to dry, I looked at some drawings of these cars that I recently found and decided to make a jig to make the supports for the wire reels. These appear to have been built from 10x or 12x lumber. I was able to get 1/8" square basswood locally so I picked some up. I created a jig out of styrene. The guides were strategically placed to allow pieces to be cut at the correct angles. In the photos, you can see the jig, Ailene's tacky cement, that I use for wood, and a brace in place on the jig. On that last one, I sill need to make a vertical cut at each end. 2 sets of 3 braces are needed for one car and those are now down. I plan to do some sanding, filling and add some hardware to these and paint them MOW grey, and add wire reels, of course.

Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 

Hi Bruce,
 
Styrene jig - That is a very clever idea!
 
Claus Schlund
 
 

From: Bruce Smith
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2020 11:14 PM
To: PRRPro@groups.io
Subject: Re: [PRRPro] Westerfield GRA
 
Folks,
 
A little side track on the GRA. Back when we did this project,I wanted to make a wire reel car for my wire train. I had a GRA in MOW grey that I had already built. The wire reel cars had wood structures that allowed multiple reels of wire to be supported and used to string catenary. I puttered around some trying to make these supports, but was never happy. This week, while waiting for paint to dry, I looked at some drawings of these cars that I recently found and decided to make a jig to make the supports for the wire reels. These appear to have been built from 10x or 12x lumber. I was able to get 1/8" square basswood locally so I picked some up. I created a jig out of styrene. The guides were strategically placed to allow pieces to be cut at the correct angles. In the photos, you can see the jig, Ailene's tacky cement, that I use for wood, and a brace in place on the jig. On that last one, I sill need to make a vertical cut at each end. 2 sets of 3 braces are needed for one car and those are now down. I plan to do some sanding, filling and add some hardware to these and paint them MOW grey, and add wire reels, of course.
 
Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL
 
Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


p5a4700
 

Bruce,
Enjoyed your discussion of the GRA reel car. Of course what you need is the wire car to go with it. Attached is a photo of my just completed wire car. It's temporarily on an FM car, waiting for another from F&C that will be painted MOW yellow. I have found no drawings for the car. What made it particularly challenging was that most photos show the platforms in the down position as I have modeled.  Unfortunately from these photos it is almost impossible  to figure out the inner structure.  Fortunately I have one photo with the platforms raised and from careful study I could figure out the inner workings to put a reasonable model together.
Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Smith
Sent: May 21, 2020 11:14 PM
To: "PRRPro@groups.io"
Subject: Re: [PRRPro] Westerfield GRA

Folks,

A little side track on the GRA. Back when we did this project,I wanted to make a wire reel car for my wire train. I had a GRA in MOW grey that I had already built. The wire reel cars had wood structures that allowed multiple reels of wire to be supported and used to string catenary. I puttered around some trying to make these supports, but was never happy. This week, while waiting for paint to dry, I looked at some drawings of these cars that I recently found and decided to make a jig to make the supports for the wire reels. These appear to have been built from 10x or 12x lumber. I was able to get 1/8" square basswood locally so I picked some up. I created a jig out of styrene. The guides were strategically placed to allow pieces to be cut at the correct angles. In the photos, you can see the jig, Ailene's tacky cement, that I use for wood, and a brace in place on the jig. On that last one, I sill need to make a vertical cut at each end. 2 sets of 3 braces are needed for one car and those are now down. I plan to do some sanding, filling and add some hardware to these and paint them MOW grey, and add wire reels, of course.

Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


Bruce Smith
 

Ron,

Nice work (That FM need a brake wheel) 😉  

I have been working on the same idea for quite a few years. I even have some lumber on my desk for this and sat down and figured out the older chain hoist mechanism. Mine will be grey, of course. The two FMs for my two are done, including end hand rails, but now I need to build the towers to go on them. I am definitely going to use some sort of styrene jig to make the sides of the inner platform and outer support.

I am also working towards a correct catenary rider car, with a Westerfield XL bash and an ND cupola. All of which I consider on topic in PRRPro because we have done the FM and XL!

Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


From: PRRPro@groups.io <PRRPro@groups.io> on behalf of p5a4700 <hoessr@...>
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2020 8:34 AM
To: PRRPro@groups.io <PRRPro@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [PRRPro] Westerfield GRA
 
Bruce,
Enjoyed your discussion of the GRA reel car. Of course what you need is the wire car to go with it. Attached is a photo of my just completed wire car. It's temporarily on an FM car, waiting for another from F&C that will be painted MOW yellow. I have found no drawings for the car. What made it particularly challenging was that most photos show the platforms in the down position as I have modeled.  Unfortunately from these photos it is almost impossible  to figure out the inner structure.  Fortunately I have one photo with the platforms raised and from careful study I could figure out the inner workings to put a reasonable model together.
Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Smith
Sent: May 21, 2020 11:14 PM
To: "PRRPro@groups.io"
Subject: Re: [PRRPro] Westerfield GRA

Folks,

A little side track on the GRA. Back when we did this project,I wanted to make a wire reel car for my wire train. I had a GRA in MOW grey that I had already built. The wire reel cars had wood structures that allowed multiple reels of wire to be supported and used to string catenary. I puttered around some trying to make these supports, but was never happy. This week, while waiting for paint to dry, I looked at some drawings of these cars that I recently found and decided to make a jig to make the supports for the wire reels. These appear to have been built from 10x or 12x lumber. I was able to get 1/8" square basswood locally so I picked some up. I created a jig out of styrene. The guides were strategically placed to allow pieces to be cut at the correct angles. In the photos, you can see the jig, Ailene's tacky cement, that I use for wood, and a brace in place on the jig. On that last one, I sill need to make a vertical cut at each end. 2 sets of 3 braces are needed for one car and those are now down. I plan to do some sanding, filling and add some hardware to these and paint them MOW grey, and add wire reels, of course.

Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


Bruce Smith
 

The GRA got decals. I very lightly sanded these as with the H25, but less. It really didn't make too much of a difference. Currently sealed with flat, waiting for weathering.

Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


Bruce Smith
 

Folks,

My Westerfield GRAs are done or mostly so. 

#335793 - represents an "as built" car with outside stake pockets, that are in pretty bad shape and will likely be taken off shortly. I added a strip wood floor that I stained with black and brown leather dye. I wasn't thrilled with the look so I dumped some alcohol on it. Now I like the look 😉 The center section of the floor is unstained, to represent a repair. An overspray of FCC faded the paint. Rust and grunge washes finished the weathering. 

#489433 - represents a wire reel car of my wire train. I finished this car a number of years ago. I recently pulled it back out and added the supports for the wire reels using strip wood and eyes. The car was weathered with a burnt umber wash. The load is not done, but I did add two reels to show how they would be mounted. Reels that were loaded were either covered with wood, like the General Cable reel, or with paper, like the Anaconda Wire reel. I will be adding more reels with wire exposed, as soon as I find very thin brass or copper wire to wind onto them. 

Both cars were finished with Tichy sill steps, Yarmouth carmer uncoupling levers (OL 1, LL 2) and HiTech air hoses. 

Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


O Fenton Wells
 

Bruce both hoppers and gobs looks great nice finish on the group 
Fenton 


On Jun 14, 2020, at 11:22 PM, Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:


Folks,

My Westerfield GRAs are done or mostly so. 

#335793 - represents an "as built" car with outside stake pockets, that are in pretty bad shape and will likely be taken off shortly. I added a strip wood floor that I stained with black and brown leather dye. I wasn't thrilled with the look so I dumped some alcohol on it. Now I like the look 😉 The center section of the floor is unstained, to represent a repair. An overspray of FCC faded the paint. Rust and grunge washes finished the weathering. 

#489433 - represents a wire reel car of my wire train. I finished this car a number of years ago. I recently pulled it back out and added the supports for the wire reels using strip wood and eyes. The car was weathered with a burnt umber wash. The load is not done, but I did add two reels to show how they would be mounted. Reels that were loaded were either covered with wood, like the General Cable reel, or with paper, like the Anaconda Wire reel. I will be adding more reels with wire exposed, as soon as I find very thin brass or copper wire to wind onto them. 

Both cars were finished with Tichy sill steps, Yarmouth carmer uncoupling levers (OL 1, LL 2) and HiTech air hoses. 

Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL
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<IMG_0354_2.JPG>
<IMG_0355_2.JPG>
<IMG_0349_1.JPG>


Nelson Moyer
 

Very nicely done! They look just right.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: PRRPro@groups.io [mailto:PRRPro@groups.io] On Behalf Of Bruce Smith
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 10:22 PM
To: PRRPro@groups.io
Cc: ResinFreightCarBuilders@groups.io
Subject: Re: [PRRPro] Westerfield GRA

 

Folks,

 

My Westerfield GRAs are done or mostly so. 

 

#335793 - represents an "as built" car with outside stake pockets, that are in pretty bad shape and will likely be taken off shortly. I added a strip wood floor that I stained with black and brown leather dye. I wasn't thrilled with the look so I dumped some alcohol on it. Now I like the look 😉 The center section of the floor is unstained, to represent a repair. An overspray of FCC faded the paint. Rust and grunge washes finished the weathering. 

 

#489433 - represents a wire reel car of my wire train. I finished this car a number of years ago. I recently pulled it back out and added the supports for the wire reels using strip wood and eyes. The car was weathered with a burnt umber wash. The load is not done, but I did add two reels to show how they would be mounted. Reels that were loaded were either covered with wood, like the General Cable reel, or with paper, like the Anaconda Wire reel. I will be adding more reels with wire exposed, as soon as I find very thin brass or copper wire to wind onto them. 

 

Both cars were finished with Tichy sill steps, Yarmouth carmer uncoupling levers (OL 1, LL 2) and HiTech air hoses. 

 

Regards,

Bruce

Bruce Smith

Auburn, AL


Bruce Smith
 

Folks, 

Here are some final photos of my PRR GRA wire reel car. The reels are from Maple Leaf Trains, and were painted and decaled with names of common wire companies used by the PRR. Most of the decals came from a sheet from Sunshine Models that I then scanned and reprinted in a larger size for these reels. The load is a combination of open reels (copper wire), empty reels, and new reels with paper coverings.

Now to build the rest of the wire train! (In case you missed it, Ron Hoess has a great article in the current issue of TKM on the tower cars)

Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


tmkprr1954
 

Very nice work Bruce!

Tom Kane

On Aug 19, 2020, at 10:12 PM, Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:


Folks, 

Here are some final photos of my PRR GRA wire reel car. The reels are from Maple Leaf Trains, and were painted and decaled with names of common wire companies used by the PRR. Most of the decals came from a sheet from Sunshine Models that I then scanned and reprinted in a larger size for these reels. The load is a combination of open reels (copper wire), empty reels, and new reels with paper coverings.

Now to build the rest of the wire train! (In case you missed it, Ron Hoess has a great article in the current issue of TKM on the tower cars)

Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL
<IMG_0412.JPG>
<IMG_0411.JPG>
<IMG_0408.JPG>