Re: I1 Project; #'s 4489, 4616 updates #'s

Bob Lyon <rbtwlyon@...>

Thanks for the suggestions, Steve. I have to admit I am a tad embarassed about mucking things up so, to the point where I almost decided not to mention it. But if others can learn from my mistakes... ;)

The chemical blackener is "Blacken-It", obtained from Micro-Mark [as it's not available to California-based LHS's due to carcinogenic concerns?], which I have used to some degree of success on freight car wheels but never tried on brass or driver sets until now. Instruction sheet was tossed long ago. After all is said and done, it didn't even touch the brass, just bridged the gap. I did try running an X-Acto blade around the tire, to no avail. It was Gary at Sunset Models who recommended using the arc technique to zap the gap free, but I've not yet attempted it.

After posting my update, I checked NWSL and did not see any drivers listed. So I guess Greenway is the way to go. But at $18 per set... ouch! I'll have to discuss with him to figure out what exactly I need... two flanged and three blind I know, but from there I'll need to have him sort it out.

Any other suggestions from the list are appreciated.


Bob Lyon
Santa Barbara, CA

----- Original Message -----
Subject: [PRRPro] Re: I1 Project; #'s 4489, 4616 updates

If you must replace the drivers, Bowser parts will most
certainly not be the easiest way to go. I haven't checked NWSL to
see if they have the correct size drivers, but I have had very good
experiences with Greenway at
He is very helpful so tell him what you need to do.

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