Re: N4 cabin car

O Fenton Wells

Really well done Bruce, It looks great and the effort was definitely worth it.  Excellent

On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 6:26 PM Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:
Ok Folks, this is the last N4 progress report. It's "done" (whatever that means 😉). Remember when I said I wanted to keep the weathering somewhat "simple"? Yeah, I lied! I'll repeat a bit from the last post, because I want to have all the weathering information together.

Underbody: To begin, the underbody details were highlighted with Tamiya black panel line accent. I also used that on the brake pawl and the air line shut off extension handle. When that was dry, the underbody was dusted with grimy black and brown weathering chalks (Doc O'Brien's) and then sprayed with clear flat. The edges of the steps were painted with model master steel to represent areas where the paint was rubbed off by boots. The end decks were painted with washes of several grimy colors, to represent wood exposed by wear and tear. A light acrylic grime wash was applied to the steps, and the ends of the car. I did this several times to get the level of effect I was looking for. When everything was dry, I used a splatter technique to add mud splatters to the ends of the steps. I took a small stiff brush, dipped it in acrylic "mud" color, and then wiped most of the paint off on a paper towel. I then took a needle in my pin vice and "twitched" the ends of the bristles so that they splattered paint. Once I got my aim perfected, I lightly splatted the ends of the steps, and if a little got on other things...well that's fine too!

Body: The first layer of weathering was done with a light overspray of FCC to fade the decals. When I was done, I felt that I was a little heavy handed, so I used a cotton swab to wipe a little of the FCC off the decals. Next, a dot filter of artists oils was used to weather the sides. I have never done this before, so the first thing I did was paint a spare Walthers N6B body I had FCC, and then experimented a bit!  On the N4, I dotted on small amounts of burnt umber and black, randomly, on the upper half of the sides. I put a dot of black under each end of the window sills. I added dots of white on the PENNSYLVANIA lettering. Then using a soft, broad brush, loaded and then wiped almost dry with Turpenol (oderless turpentine substitute), I brushed down the side, cleaning the brush after each wipe, until there was barely any paint left, leaving it just a little heavier towards the bottom of the sides. I left the streaks under the ends of the window sills a bit heavier, and I made sure NOT to paint under the windows themselves. The hint of white shows chalking of the lettering. When that was dry, I mixed a little white into the burnt umber to lighten it slightly and then dabbed that along the lower edge of the sides. This was followed by a medium grey and then a light grey, all mixed on my pallet from the 3 basic colors, black, white, and burnt umber. I then used the damp brush to remove most of this paint, leaving just a hint to show paint failure at the very bottom of the sides. The sides of the cupola got a light black wash. When everything was dry (several days later) I brushed on a small spot of future, added a decal made by painting blank decal paper with FCC paint, and then a repack stencil from the Mount Vernon set. This makes it look as if there is a fresh spot of paint where the old repack was painted out and a new one added. 

The ends of the car were treated similarly to the sides with the dot filter, but I removed even more paint, since they are protected by the roof. I did try to leave a little of the oils around the edges of the door panels where dirt would accumulate. I lightly dry brushed the bottom edge of the ends with medium grey for a very slight amount of paint failure.

Roof: The roof as well as the ends of the cupola was weathered with grimy black chalk from Doc O'Briens. This is pretty heavy because these roofs were continually exposed to smoke from steam engines.

Stovepipe: The stove pipe was first painted with Poly Scale flat aluminum. I like that for a base for galvanized metal, although it is a bit too "bright". A very light grey (almost white)was mixed from the oils, and dabbed onto the pipe and shield with a torn fine sponge to represent heated metal. Once dry, this approach was repeated with burnt umber (oil) and then Vallejo 71129 (light rust, acrylic). Finally, rust and grimy black colored chalks were lightly applied.

A final coat of Model Master flat on everything and I called the weathering done.

Window glass was cut from microscope coverslips and glued into place with canopy cement.

She's ready for service!

Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374

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