Re: H25 underbody

O Fenton Wells

Looking good Bruce, nice detailing

On Sun, Apr 19, 2020 at 9:37 AM Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:
Hi Folks,

Continuing with the H25, I carefully fit the bolsters with the underbody in place and tacked them to the underbody with CA. Note that the rivet strip on the bolster that touches the slope sheet is a bit fragile and one of mine fell off completely and another started to peel off. They can be replaces with a thin piece of strip styrene and rivets, if it is an issue. Once the bolsters were on, I glued on the bolster caps. These will overhang on the outer edged. Leave them that way for now. I also glued the coupler pad extensions to the coupler pads on the underframe at this time, making sure that they were square. 

Next up was assembling the brake system. After our discussion, I think I know how to make this in a prototypic way. I started with the bracket holding the cylinder and reservoir and cleaned it up. I drilled the reservoir for air lines and also drilled the AB valve. 

I filed the bottom of the AB valve so that it would fit into the fitting that holds the reservoir and cylinder and glued it in place. Then I bent 0.012" brass wire to represent the two pipes between the valve and reservoir and glued it in place with CA. I then glued the assembly to the end of the under frame. I had a problem with the attachment points on the large brake lever breaking so I cut them off and replaced them with 0.012" brass wire in 1/2 a turnbuckle casting. This did require thinning the brake lever. The brake cylinder was drilled with a #78 bit and the lever glued in a vertical position. When these were test fitted, the lever was too high, touching the slop sheet ,so I cut part of the top off and rounded it off. Once the CA was dry, I test fitted the under frames in the bodies and then glued then in place. Note that I decided not to use the "shims" that are supposed to go between the bolster and body.

Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374

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