Date   
Some initial testing & success

Nick Kennedy
 

OK, I got as far as getting the DDS to produce some  output,  so that's pretty good.


The left two legs of the LM317L being crossed and the grounded end of D1 are the only issues I've found thus far.  It wasn't hard to scratch off the 4 skinny foils connecting the D1 anode pad to ground, which I did since my diode was already soldered in, although the in-line connection would be fine too.

After I got the voltages looking good, I plugged in the Arduino board.  I'd previously loaded it with a "sketch" that varies the voltage on a pin using PWM, so I checked that pin with my scope and saw that the Arduino was running OK. Step 1 good.

Next I downloaded the test program from the site and managed to load it into the board. I think it would be good if this program would start up by programming the DDS to a known frequency output, even before any serial I/O with the user occurs. Or one of us can make a separate sketch to do that.

I hadn't tried the recommended Term232 before, but I got it running.  First issue was that my laptop installed the Arduino's USB/RS232 converter as COM11 and Term232 only goes through COM8.  I managed to use the device manager to change the port number.

I established serial communications between the laptop using Term232 and the Arduino and saw the opening screen.  One useful thing is to configure Term232 to echo typed characters locally, or you're typing blind.

I chose generator mode and asked for 7000 kHz (7 MHz).  I knew the DDS was at least powered up because an LED was  ON.  I tuned the station receiver to 7.000 MHz but didn't hear anything.  Maybe it needs a bit of an antenna.  I clipped short test leads to the two pins of J4, which is the alternate wave output.  Still no sounds.

There were a couple things I had to correct.  See the view of the DDS board in DDS image.PNG on the site.  The two pin header at the upper left had no shorting jumper -- it needs one to put the board into serial programming mode. 

Still no sound.  Experimentally I removed the jumper from near the upper right corner that says to produce square waves when connected and then I heard the sound in the receiver.  Yea! That's always fun.

At this time, the two programming jumpers at the left are installed and the one at the upper right is not.

I was able to move the frequency up and down with the 8 & 2 keys.  I gathered from the menu that arrow up and down might be an alternative way of doing this, but only the number keys worked for me.

BTW, after making some changes or needing to start over, press the RESET button which is on the corner of the board right next to the USB connector.

The DDS frequency is about 90 Hz higher than shown in my receiver, before calibration.  So pretty close.  Didn't need to tune around to find it.

I haven't yet built the filter and amplifier section.  That's next.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU


Re: Some initial testing & success

N5IB
 

 

---In PHSNA@..., <phsna@...> wrote:
The left two legs of the LM317L being crossed and the grounded end of D1 are the only issues I've found thus far.  It wasn't hard to scratch off the 4 skinny foils connecting the D1 anode pad to ground, which I did since my diode was already soldered in, although the in-line connection would be fine too.

-------------------

Thanks for the report Nick. Glad to hear my SNAFUs didn't hold you up too much  :^))

If any of y'all opt for Nick's method to deal with D1, be sure to do a continuity test and make sure that leftmost lead of D1 is NOT grounded. The bottom side foil does not have a ground trace, but the clear margin around the pad was significantly reduced for some reason, so the possibility of a solder bridge on the bottom is increased.
Use an ohmmeter and test.

I'm back at the home QTH, so before too long will post some errata and photos.

Whoever is the first "lab rat" to complete a power meter, please post :^))

Jim, N5IB

New Test File

Jerry Haigwood
 

Hi Guys and Gals,

     I have created a test file that outputs a 10 MHz signal.  The file is in the Files Section of this Yahoo group.  It is titled “Test_10_MHz_Signal.ino.”  You can use this file as a check out file once you get the SSNA board built.  This file can also be used to calibrate the DDS signal.  On line 38 of this file is a denominator of 125000000.  You can vary this value until the 10 MHz signal is zero beat with WWV.  If you have an accurate frequency counter, you can use it to measure the output of the 10 MHz signal for calibration.

Jerry W5JH

"building something without experimenting is just solder practice"

 

Builder Alerts - summary and photos posted

N5IB
 

Look in the files section for a PDF file containing the two known builder alerts for the SSNA PC boards.

Jim, N5IB

Atta Boys

Jay Henson
 

Fellow builders,

Most of the time, I fail to recognize the folks
that support us in our building efforts. These
are the companies that provide excellent service
and response to our parts requests. I'd like to
give an "Atta Boy" to:

Chipworld on ebay I had received 2 of the
AD9850 modules within a week of ordering.
KitsandParts Diz and his XYL had my order in my
hands in a matter of days.
AllElectronics My order for meters took 2 days.

As always, I have no connection with any of these
companies, other than being an extremely
satisfied customer.

I am still waiting on my Funduino to arrive. It
supposedly has left the USPS in Chicago and is
enroute to parts unknown. It is interesting that
Chipworld could get my modules to me in less than
a week, and my Funduino has not been heard from.
Both orders were placed within a few minutes of
each other.

Happy building!!!
Jay
AJ4AY
Mobile, AL

Re: Atta Boys

Gene Dorcas <gene@...>
 

I ordered my Funduino about the same time. I don’t know if it was from the same company but I received an email from them saying there would be a delay since they were out-of-stock.

 

Gene, W5DOR

 

From: PHSNA@... [mailto:PHSNA@...] On Behalf Of Jay
Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2013 9:07 PM
To: PHSNA@...
Subject: [PHSNA] Atta Boys

 

 

Fellow builders,

Most of the time, I fail to recognize the folks
that support us in our building efforts. These
are the companies that provide excellent service
and response to our parts requests. I'd like to
give an "Atta Boy" to:

Chipworld on ebay I had received 2 of the
AD9850 modules within a week of ordering.
KitsandParts Diz and his XYL had my order in my
hands in a matter of days.
AllElectronics My order for meters took 2 days.

As always, I have no connection with any of these
companies, other than being an extremely
satisfied customer.

I am still waiting on my Funduino to arrive. It
supposedly has left the USPS in Chicago and is
enroute to parts unknown. It is interesting that
Chipworld could get my modules to me in less than
a week, and my Funduino has not been heard from.
Both orders were placed within a few minutes of
each other.

Happy building!!!
Jay
AJ4AY
Mobile, AL

Re: Building the power meter

Don Lewis
 

 
Jim, Please, ...Is C5 left off the Power Meter BOB?   (.1uf)?
 
 
Thank you, -Don

From: "n5ib@..."
To: PHSNA@...
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 7:16 AM
Subject: [PHSNA] Building the power meter

 
One important thing to remember about the AD8307 rf detector is that it is VERY sensitive. It will measure down around -70 dBm, which is one ten-billionth of a watt! Or 71 millionths of a volt.

So you have to take extra special care to keep stray rf away from it. First and foremost is a VERY well shielded enclosure. One of those cast aluminum boxes is probably best, but the "minibox" style will be OK if the halves fit tightly together. I used an "Altoids tin on steroids" with a tight fitting slip-on lid, from PaperMart.com.

Anything coming into the box (other than the signal, of course) needs to be well bypassed for rf, hence the posts you&apos;ve read recently about feedthru capacitors.
Best bet is to keep the power supply (battery) inside the box. Then the only other penetrations are for input signal and DC out to the Arduino. You can probably get away without a feedthru cap for the dc output if you use an rf type connector and bypass it very close to the box wall with a couple of caps, maybe a 0.001 uF in parallel with a 0.1 uF There is another bypass cap on the PC board, but don&apos;t rely on that one.

If you use an analog meter with yours, the meter represents a big hole in the box (unless its one of those great mil surplus full-metal-jacket types). For a plastic meter, maybe some copper foil tape or real aluminum foil duct tape can be applied to the back to cover most of the gaps.

Jim, N5IB


Re: Building the power meter

N5IB
 


Good catch, Don.
 
I updated the BOM to add C5. You probably would want to parallel C5 with another capacitor (.1 or .01) right at the connector body itself.
 
Jim, N5IB
 
 
 
On Sun, 3 Nov 2013 07:49:29 -0800 (PST) Don Lewis <dlewis11193@...> writes:

Jim, Please, ...Is C5 left off the Power Meter BOB?   (.1uf)?
Thank you, -Don

Re: Building the power meter

Garey Barrell
 

Jim -

I don't understand. There no pads for C5. According to the schematic C5 is in parallel with C4 (same value) and they're only a fraction of an inch apart?? No connector involved. If you really want 0.2, why not just put a 0.22 in C4??

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
<www.k4oah.com>

n5ib@... wrote:




Good catch, Don.
I updated the BOM to add C5. You probably would want to parallel C5 with another capacitor (.1 or .01) right at the connector body itself.
Jim, N5IB
On Sun, 3 Nov 2013 07:49:29 -0800 (PST) Don Lewis <dlewis11193@... <mailto:dlewis11193@...>> writes:

Jim, Please, ...Is C5 left off the Power Meter BOB? (.1uf)?
Thank you, -Don

Re: Building the power meter

Garey Barrell
 

OH, Now I understand. The schematic shows it over by Pin 6 of U1. On the board it's over by the A/D connector.

Better a feedthrough cap at the box wall.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
<www.k4oah.com>

Garey Barrell wrote:


Jim -

I don't understand. There no pads for C5. According to the schematic C5 is in parallel with C4 (same value) and
they're only a fraction of an inch apart?? No connector involved. If you really want 0.2, why not just put a 0.22 in C4??

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
<www.k4oah.com>

n5ib@... wrote:



Good catch, Don.
I updated the BOM to add C5. You probably would want to parallel C5 with another capacitor (.1 or .01) right at the
connector body itself.
Jim, N5IB
On Sun, 3 Nov 2013 07:49:29 -0800 (PST) Don Lewis <dlewis11193@... <mailto:dlewis11193@...>> writes:

Jim, Please, ...Is C5 left off the Power Meter BOB? (.1uf)?
Thank you, -Don

Re: Building the power meter

N5IB
 

New Power Meter schematic is posted. It matches the PCB layouts rev 1.20 and rev1.25.

Just to recap, the previously posted schematic went with the "chubby" version of the PC board that I'd prototyped. When I laid out the "skinny" version to piggy back on the SSNA board, I eliminated the capacitor at C5 since it was very near C4 and was just there for bypassing.

The C5 part ID was reassigned to the capacitor near P2 and P3, which bypasses the DC output heading towards the SSNA. As Garey said, that cap on the PCB is NOT sufficient bypassing, its just there for "langiappe."

Either bring the DC signal out via a feed-thru cap, or use a shielded connector like a BNC or RCA and bypass i either .1 or .01 right at the connector body.

Jim, N5IB

Re: BUILDER ALERT!! - SSNA - D1 - ALERT

Don Lewis
 

Jim:
 
Is the pinout on the schematic correct for the 7805 regulator?
 
-Don
 
 
 

From: "n5ib@..."
To: PHSNA@...
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 8:22 PM
Subject: [PHSNA] BUILDER ALERT!! - SSNA - D1 - ALERT

 
Y&apos;all thank Nick... he found another one... this one&apos;s mysterious. The anode end of D1 is clearly connected to the ground plane on the top side. On the bottom side the layout doesn&apos;t show a ground plane connection, but the margin around the pad is reduced. Both conditions are in error. The layout file ended up showing BOTH a clearance margin and a filled plane connection. Don&apos;t know how that could happen.

Here&apos;s the fix...
Connect and solder the left (non-banded) lead of  D1 and the right lead of F1 together as "flying leads", but DO NOT solder them  to the PC pads.  Leave them elevated above the board. If you choose to not use F1 at all, you can just connect D1 from its normal banded-end pad to the left pad of F1, skipping the two middle pads entirely.

Once again, when I get home I&apos;ll post a photo.

Jim, N5IB


Re: BUILDER ALERT!! - SSNA - D1 - ALERT

Paul Schumacher
 

Pins 1 and 2 are reversed on the schematic, but I believe they are correct on the board.   Paul, K0ZYV


On Sunday, November 3, 2013 7:22 PM, Don Lewis wrote:
 
Jim:
 
Is the pinout on the schematic correct for the 7805 regulator?
 
-Don
 
 
 

From: "n5ib@..."
To: PHSNA@...
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 8:22 PM
Subject: [PHSNA] BUILDER ALERT!! - SSNA - D1 - ALERT

 
Y&apos;all thank Nick... he found another one... this one&apos;s mysterious. The anode end of D1 is clearly connected to the ground plane on the top side. On the bottom side the layout doesn&apos;t show a ground plane connection, but the margin around the pad is reduced. Both conditions are in error. The layout file ended up showing BOTH a clearance margin and a filled plane connection. Don&apos;t know how that could happen.

Here&apos;s the fix...
Connect and solder the left (non-banded) lead of  D1 and the right lead of F1 together as "flying leads", but DO NOT solder them  to the PC pads.  Leave them elevated above the board. If you choose to not use F1 at all, you can just connect D1 from its normal banded-end pad to the left pad of F1, skipping the two middle pads entirely.

Once again, when I get home I&apos;ll post a photo.

Jim, N5IB




Re: BUILDER ALERT!! - SSNA - D1 - ALERT

Don Lewis
 

Same for LM317, also, ...I believe.  On the schematic.
 
Is pinout standard notation?  Please check.
 
Thanks, ...-Don
 
 
 
 
 

From: Paul Schumacher To: "PHSNA@..."
Sent: Sunday, November 3, 2013 9:30 PM
Subject: Re: [PHSNA] BUILDER ALERT!! - SSNA - D1 - ALERT

 
Pins 1 and 2 are reversed on the schematic, but I believe they are correct on the board.   Paul, K0ZYV


On Sunday, November 3, 2013 7:22 PM, Don Lewis wrote:
 
Jim:
 
Is the pinout on the schematic correct for the 7805 regulator?
 
-Don
 
 
 

From: "n5ib@..." To: PHSNA@...
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 8:22 PM
Subject: [PHSNA] BUILDER ALERT!! - SSNA - D1 - ALERT

 
Y&apos;all thank Nick... he found another one... this one&apos;s mysterious. The anode end of D1 is clearly connected to the ground plane on the top side. On the bottom side the layout doesn&apos;t show a ground plane connection, but the margin around the pad is reduced. Both conditions are in error. The layout file ended up showing BOTH a clearance margin and a filled plane connection. Don&apos;t know how that could happen.

Here&apos;s the fix...
Connect and solder the left (non-banded) lead of  D1 and the right lead of F1 together as "flying leads", but DO NOT solder them  to the PC pads.  Leave them elevated above the board. If you choose to not use F1 at all, you can just connect D1 from its normal banded-end pad to the left pad of F1, skipping the two middle pads entirely.

Once again, when I get home I&apos;ll post a photo.

Jim, N5IB






LM7805 and LM317L on SSNA

N5IB
 

The numbered pins on the schematic are, uhhhmmm, "unconventional'  :^))  
But in the case of the LM7805 they properly match the PCB layout, so the part is correctly installed according to the silk-screened outline.

The issue with the LM317L is addressed in the Builder Alert PDF file that's posted.

Much like the admonition to Dorothy, "Pay no attention to those pin numbers behind that curtain!"

I'll clean that up later and make sure they conform to data sheet conventions. Then I'll hide the blessed numbers so they won't haunt me again  :^))

Jim, N5IB



Same

Re: LM7805 and LM317L on SSNA

Gene Dorcas <gene@...>
 

.  .  and, speaking of parts.  I couldn’t afford a high0quality Simpson panel meter for the power meter but found a 1ma meter at Electronic Goldmine for $21.00.  The comparable Simpson is $88.00.  Recently Electronic Goldmine had them on sale for $10.00. I bought 3 of them.

 

From: PHSNA@... [mailto:PHSNA@...] On Behalf Of n5ib@...
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2013 6:30 AM
To: PHSNA@...
Subject: [PHSNA] LM7805 and LM317L on SSNA

 

 

The numbered pins on the schematic are, uhhhmmm, "unconventional'  :^))  
But in the case of the LM7805 they properly match the PCB layout, so the part is correctly installed according to the silk-screened outline.

The issue with the LM317L is addressed in the Builder Alert PDF file that's posted.

Much like the admonition to Dorothy, "Pay no attention to those pin numbers behind that curtain!"

I'll clean that up later and make sure they conform to data sheet conventions. Then I'll hide the blessed numbers so they won't haunt me again  :^))

Jim, N5IB



Same

Re: LM7805 and LM317L on SSNA

N5IB
 

New schematic and layout PDF files are posted.

COMBO 2N5109 Schematic and Layout.pdf
COMBO ERA3 Schematic and Layout.pdf

No substantive changes, just cleaning up some notation issues y'all have uncovered.

If you haven't yet, be sure to retrieve the Builder Alert PDF file

Jim, N5IB

Re: SSNA Power Options

N5IB
 

I allowed for several options for powering the system just for convenience, depending on what other accessories folks might be tagging on.
 
A) I think the simplest way is to supply 12 V to the SSNA board and let the on board 5 V regulator power the Arduino and the DDS. A total of about 150 MA is needed from a 12 V supply.
When the Arduino is plugged into the USB port of the PC that USB port will only need to supply a couple of mA.
 
B) If you're worried about heat in the SSNA's regulator you could let the USB port supply 5 V power to the Arduino. It will draw around 50 mA
Then connect 12 V to the SSNA board, whose 5 V regulator now need only power the DDS, needing around 100 mA
I actually used this mode on the first prototype, so I could use a 3.3 V regulator instead of the 7805 to power the DDS, which appears to work fine.
 
C) You could also supply 12 V (the full 150 mA needed) directly to the Arduino's coax power jack, which would use its own 5 V regulator for itself, and then the 12 V would be routed to the SSNA for use by it and the DDS.
 
Bottom line... I'd go for "A"
 
Use "B" if you want to try the 3.3 V on the DDS
 
Jim, N5IB
 
On Mon, 4 Nov 2013 09:29:35 -0800 (PST) Don Lewis <dlewis11193@...> writes:

Jim,
There are several power options available for hook-up on the SSNA board.
Which one will provide the best service?
What did you have in mind when you designed them in

Re: Some initial testing & success

W0PWE
 

Hey Nick - Thanks for the note about the jumpers on the DDS board. That saved me a lot of head scratching. 


Mine is now generating a signal so I will move on to the filter and amp section. The AD8950 runs a little warm but I guess that is normal. 

73 - Jerry - W0PWE 



---In phsna@..., <planophore@...> wrote:

Just as the subject line says, found in todays mail.

Boards look mighty fine and I am keeping notes on the two minor problems
so far reported on list.


cheers, Graham ve3gtc

Re: Some initial testing & success

N5IB
 


On 05 Nov 2013 06:20:29 -0800 <j.b.hall@...> writes:
Mine is now generating a signal so I will move on to the filter and amp section.
The AD8950 runs a little warm but I guess that is normal.
------------------------------snip--------------------------
 
My 9850 module is running on 3.3 V. That reduces the current demand a bit and thus the heat. The 3.3 V regulator sees a bit higher voltage drop across it than the 5 V would, but the reduced current makes it about an even trade. Even though that's just ouside the munufacturer's published envelope for the 125 MHz clock it seems to work fine.
 
If you do that, you'll need to replace the 7805 with a TO-220 packaged 3.3 V regulator, then leave jumper JP1 open. You can also omit the fuse F2.
You'll now supply power to the Arduini via its USB port.
I wondered a bit about mixing the 3.3V DDS with the 5 V Arduino, but I haven't smoked anything yet.
As always, caveat molitor  i.e., YMMV
 
Jim, N5IB