some progress
From: Ernst Lobsiger via groups.io <ernst.lobsiger@...>
To: MSG-1@groups.io
Sent: Sun, 19 Jun 2022 13:28
Subject: Re: [MSG-1] some progress
you can either stay with your 'grown tree' theory or still try points below if not already tried.
Most of the advice has been given to you before but I'd like to sum up my two cents here:
1) I *doubt* that "a few centimeters" of grown trees make an SNR difference of 6 versus 14dB
2) An SNR of 6.2dB will give you no useful results as BASIC channels have link margin 0.3dB
while HVS-1 has link margin -3.1dB ! That said you certainly filter out HVS-1 MODCODs ?
3) Regarding 2) maybe you find someone that can check this with an independant TC receiver.
4) There is a rare possibility, that happened to me at least once, that you receive the signal
via a first antenna sidelobe. This can happen if your first azimuth estimate is by compass.
Then you optimize for hours (as I did) your first sidelobe without knowing what's going on.
5) Regarding 4) you should check the antenna azimuth using the sun. For this find someone
that spans a 1/2 inch black plastic tape from the LNB center to the exact top of the antenna.
Then check or photograph the shadow of this tape on the dish at the time when the sun
exactly passes the azimuth that your antenna should have. Needless to say that this shadow
should/must fall on the center of your dish and that you find the sun passing time on the net.
6) At the very time of the next solar outage try to observe or even photograph the sun from
near your antenna. To protect your bare eyes you can use some of these electric welding
filter glasses. The apparent diameter of the sun is 0.53° (32'). So this will allow for
a very exact estimate of your (hopefully?!) remaining gap over the top of the trees.
7) Finally the attached image of your (old) antenna shows a long gutter rather close. If
this gutter is metallic and electrically conducting (as the image seems to show) then
this might deteriorate the antenna position or at least have an influence regarding 4).
8) If you'll ever have your antenna repointed, make sure you have life feedback of SNR from
your TC receiver. Cheap chinese antenna pointing devices cannot handle SNR of VCM signals.
May I add that I have pointed 10+ EUEMETCast dishes myself and know what I'm talking about.
Good luck,
Ernst
TBH I hesitated to post under this subject (that has been discussed elsewhere too) once again. All possible advice and hints for adjusting the antenna and links to useful tools have been given already. The problem is that we still have very limited knowledge of the actual situation. Once we see a totally free antenna, then we see again trees that seem to loom right in front of the antenna including electrical wires where the antenna beam will cross underneath (or was that on a distant hill?). Then Robert posts a sketch with a triangle where atan(4.6/6.15)=36.8° is said to be 29.7°. So this sketch is wrong as well. AFAIK (at least I think I found out) Robert lives in Carmel North Wales which is indeed below the northern side of a hill. I can understand that he cannot climb on ladders anymore (I cannot carry a 25kg Reosal salt package anymore) and that he does not want to publish the coordinates of his house and of these offending trees on MSG-1. He might even (like me!) not have a smart phone that has demonstrated to be a useful tool for pointing dishes (I have recently posted a respective link as well).
But as long as you can move the mouse of your PC you can do a lot with dishpointer and Google Earth. I attach two screenshots below from an assumed Carmel position rather close to the hill in S/SE. IIRC my simplest math then Google says that the horizon in direction of E10A is at an elevation of atan((323-269)/523)=5.9°. Dishpointer shows us the height of the antenna beam at that distance to be h=278.2m (starting from 0m). You can calculate that yourself: For elevation 27.9° it must be h=523*tan(27.9)=277m which is --combined with Google Earth -- 269+277-323=233m over ground (1.2m elevation rounding difference with dishpointer). That said maybe Robert is willing to reveal the exact Google Earth (lat, lon) coordinates of his antenna and the offending trees (including a real world estimate of the size of these trees and his antenna pole height from the ground) to you John and you can discuss that further at the phone or with private e-mails. Thanks for your help.
Best regards,
Ernst
My location is no secret:
53o 16’ 47.7” N 3o 14’ 39.5” W
In decimal
53o 16’.79711 N 3o 14’.66017 W
That is the position of the mast – not the middle of the house (which no longer has a solar panel on the roof)!
I will explore the trees in the next few days, but I suspect they are beech trees, which can grow to 30 to 40 metres, though I doubt that height in this location – we shall see. Some of the trees I know are oak.
Find attached an image of the area with dish pointer line added. my house is at 163 metres ASL (plus 6m for dish), the altitude of the north edge of the red circle is around 175m and the southern edge 200m. To these heights add the height of the trees. Approximate distance from dish 65 and 100 metres to the respective edges of the circle. The arithmetic will be more reliable when I have located and measured the height of the trees.
Robert
Sent: 04 July 2022 17:50
To: MSG-1@groups.io
Subject: Re: [MSG-1] some progress
John,
TBH I hesitated to post under this subject (that has been discussed elsewhere too) once again. All possible advice and hints for adjusting the antenna and links to useful tools have been given already. The problem is that we still have very limited knowledge
of the actual situation. Once we see a totally free antenna, then we see again trees that seem to loom right in front of the antenna including electrical wires where the antenna beam will cross underneath (or was that on a distant hill?). Then Robert posts
a sketch with a triangle where atan(4.6/6.15)=36.8° is said to be 29.7°. So this sketch is wrong as well. AFAIK (at least I think I found out) Robert lives in Carmel North Wales which is indeed below the northern side of a hill. I can understand that he cannot
climb on ladders anymore (I cannot carry a 25kg Reosal salt package anymore) and that he does not want to publish the coordinates of his house and of these offending trees on MSG-1. He might even (like me!) not have a smart phone that has demonstrated to be
a useful tool for pointing dishes (I have recently posted a respective link as well).
But as long as you can move the mouse of your PC you can do a lot with dishpointer and Google Earth. I attach two screenshots below from an assumed Carmel position rather close to the hill in S/SE. IIRC my simplest math then Google says that the horizon in
direction of E10A is at an elevation of atan((323-269)/523)=5.9°. Dishpointer shows us the height of the antenna beam at that distance to be h=278.2m (starting from 0m). You can calculate that yourself: For elevation 27.9° it must be h=523*tan(27.9)=277m which
is --combined with Google Earth -- 269+277-323=233m over ground (1.2m elevation rounding difference with dishpointer). That said maybe Robert is willing to reveal the exact Google Earth (lat, lon) coordinates of his antenna and the offending trees (including
a real world estimate of the size of these trees and his antenna pole height from the ground) to you John and you can discuss that further at the phone or with private e-mails. Thanks for your help.
Best regards,
Ernst
There are reasons I explicitly specified those two transponders (BFBS and AFP):
1. there are no such frequencies on 9°E
2. a sat TV installer tech may end up pointing to 9°E instead of 10°E and with a dish big enough, that 1° off may result in a big loss!
3. both of these TPs are standard DVB ones, no ACM/VCM so any decent sat meter can lock onto these without any issue
Robert,
I checked around your location and what you're saying makes a lot more sense now. Those trees are indeed very close to your dish. I'm not yet sure about the hill behind.
Regards,
George
sorry, Google gave me the wrong Carmel in North Wales also with a hill in SE. So use my two screen shots just as cheat sheets for Google Earth and dishpointer. Your situation at the location you gave us is now indeed very tight and might depend on whether those trees are 20m or actually 30m high. There is also a slight difference if I make the calculation with your numbers or with the digital elevation model Google Earth uses. Please note that dishpointer also gives a consireable skew for your position.
Ernst
Thanks Ernst, off to measure some tree heights tomorrow – weather permitting.
Robert
Sent: 04 July 2022 21:15
To: MSG-1@groups.io
Subject: Re: [MSG-1] some progress
Robert,
sorry, Google gave me the wrong Carmel in North Wales also with a hill in SE. So use my two screen shots just as cheat sheets for Google Earth and dishpointer. Your situation at the location you gave us is now indeed very tight and might depend on whether those
trees are 20m or actually 30m high. There is also a slight difference if I make the calculation with your numbers or with the digital elevation model Google Earth uses. Please note that dishpointer also gives a consireable skew for your position.
Ernst
as you make no secret of your position I took your permission for granted to attach the things below. I may still be wrong but in the first google image I think I spotted your (old) antenna. Then I found the gap in the trees you said all your engineers pointed at for best reception. It seems to me that this notch is rather far left from what your antenna should aim to. On the other hand right of the gap are indeed the biggest trees. You have a very large garden and you have stated that during a discussion in message #10243 exactly in these words. So I'am now almost convinced you can make the image from behind your antenna I asked you for -- even omitting the UK "No trespassing!" problem -- if you go to the northern part of your garden. For an exact azimuth use the sun passing over your antenna mast at times you find on these two links below. For elevation use your inclinometer that should point with 27.9° to the center of your antenna. If possible use a tripod for your camera. Configure it for small angle views and put the antenna in the center of the image. I just hope this works. It's certainly worth a try.
Only dishpointer.eu has the additional sun passing times!
These times are only valid for the day you click the link
(for future passing times use the NOAA solar calculator).
Dishpointer.com says for your antenna position and E10A:
Azimuth 163.6° / Elevation 27.9° / Skew -9.7°
https://www.dishpointer.eu/
https://gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/
I attach two *.kmz files you can play with. Just double click them with your "Google Earth PRO" installed. They should appear left under temporary locations. You can then also right click these entries and display the terrain profiles. Make sure you have terrain switched on. In case of problems Google will tell you step by step how to do that.
From the NOAA solar calculator you see that your next complete outage is October 13th 2022 at 11:00:43 UTC. That's where you can exactly see the sun centered/covered by your antenna from the special point in your garden. There are also a couple of solar outage calculators on the net John might know more about than I do. A last hint: As the offending trees are rather close you see quite sharp shadows on the google images. So one possible check is also to see (during the time of the next outage, or a few days before and after) whether your dish is still illuminated in plain sun or whether the shadow already reached your dish (for this experiment there should be enough leafs left on the trees in October).
Good luck,
Ernst
Thanks Ernst, it looks like you’ve been walking up my road! Spot on for the dish position. I’ve been out amongst the trees this afternoon – I have to sort out my notes first (and cook dinner) but hope to report back later this evening.
Robert
Sent: 05 July 2022 16:10
To: MSG-1@groups.io
Subject: Re: [MSG-1] some progress
Robert,
as you make no secret of your position I took your permission for granted to attach the things below. I may still be wrong but in the first google image I think I spotted your (old) antenna. Then I found the gap in the trees you said all your engineers pointed
at for best reception. It seems to me that this notch is rather far left from what your antenna should aim to. On the other hand right of the gap are indeed the biggest trees. You have a very large garden and you have stated that during a discussion in message
#10243 exactly in these words. So I'am now almost convinced you can make the image from behind your antenna I asked you for -- even omitting the UK "No trespassing!" problem -- if you go to the northern part of your garden. For an exact azimuth use the sun
passing over your antenna mast at times you find on these two links below. For elevation use your inclinometer that should point with 27.9° to the center of your antenna. If possible use a tripod for your camera. Configure it for small angle views and put
the antenna in the center of the image. I just hope this works. It's certainly worth a try.
Only dishpointer.eu has the additional sun passing times!
These times are only valid for the day you click the link
(for future passing times use the NOAA solar calculator).
Dishpointer.com says for your antenna position and E10A:
Azimuth 163.6° / Elevation 27.9° / Skew -9.7°
https://www.dishpointer.eu/
https://gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/
I attach two *.kmz files you can play with. Just double click them with your "Google Earth PRO" installed. They should appear left under temporary locations. You can then also right click these entries and display the terrain profiles. Make sure you have terrain
switched on. In case of problems Google will tell you step by step how to do that.
From the NOAA solar calculator you see that your next complete outage is October 13th 2022 at 11:00:43 UTC. That's where you can exactly see the sun centered/covered by your antenna from the special point in your garden. There are also a couple of solar outage
calculators on the net John might know more about than I do. A last hint: As the offending trees are rather close you see quite sharp shadows on the google images. So one possible check is also to see (during the time of the next outage, or a few days before
and after) whether your dish is still illuminated in plain sun or whether the shadow already reached your dish (for this experiment there should be enough leafs left on the trees in October).
Good luck,
Ernst
Thanks Ernst, it looks like you’ve been walking up my road!Robert,
forgive me, I have also trespassed your garden :-). There is more "Google Earth PRO" can tell us. It can at least in part replace your inclinometer to estimate the height of trees. Let's look at the almost free standing pine accross the street. Drawing a line from the top of the shadow to the top of the tree shows azimuth 162°. There is also a shadow of a telefone pole over the street (west of the pine) that shows an azimuth 167°. So let's take a mean value of 164.5° and *YES* we take that as the azimuth of the sun when the sat image was taken. Now at the bottom of the screen you find the info that this image was taken April 22nd 2015. This is bad news as it means the trees are even bigger now. But it's also good news as we can go to the NOAA solar calculator and find out that the time for this azimuth must have been 11:30 UTC and the elevation of the sun was 48.1°. Now for the height of the pine (2015!) it is as simple as that:
The height (measured from the elevation at the top of the shadow) is just the horizontal length of the shadow in meters (on the map) multiplied with tan(48.1°). In our case:
h = 19.14m * tan(48.1°) = 19.14m * 1.115 = 21.33m
This seems rather big but as I said, it's measured from the elevation of the top of the shadow while the tree stands maybe 4m uphill. I attach one more *.kmz that you can download and open by double click with "Google Earth PRO" installed. This of course is just a blue print for what you can do outside now in summer 2022. Observe the shadows of the trees and where they originate from (protect your eyes and don't look directly in the sun!). You can go a little bit inside the top of the shadow and still see where it originates from. Find out the according horizontal distance and note the time. Go to the NOAA solar calculator and find the elevation of the sun at the time you noted. Double check you use the same time zone. I always use UTC on all my GNU/Linux PCs and try not to mess with MEZ and DST and the like. With the elevation found do the simple math above.
Cheers,
Ernst (the teacher)
P.S.
You can walk a street in "Google Earth PRO" by grabbing and pulling the yellow 'Oscar' top right down to the street with your mouse. Then you can look around and navigate with your mouse (also use the wheel). The images of the street in front of your home date from September 2021 as displayed again at the bottom of the screen. And *YES*, if we look up we see rather big trees :-\ ...
Back from my expedition Ernst – I walked 1.6 km but was never more than 300 metres from the dish (mainly 200 m). At the furthest point five large dogs rushed at me, barking furiously. They wanted to be petted and to play!
See attached screenshot: the white line is the only path through the wood and the trees are too close together to be measure. The arrowed tree was 26 metres tall – everything between would have been impossible to measure but was entirely inaccessible anyhow. I think the arrowed tree may be the right-hand tree of a gap we can see in your picture. Its top elevation would be 227 metres.
For a final resolution I think we’ll have to wait for the engineer to take a picture from dish-level but meanwhile I am going to have one more attempt from near the northern boundary of the garden.
Robert
Sent: 05 July 2022 22:27
To: MSG-1@groups.io
Subject: Re: [MSG-1] some progress
On Tue, Jul 5, 2022 at 10:24 AM, Robert Moore wrote:
Thanks Ernst, it looks like you’ve been walking up my road!
Robert,
forgive me, I have also trespassed your garden :-). There is more "Google Earth PRO" can tell us. It can at least in part replace your inclinometer to estimate the height of trees. Let's look at the almost free standing pine accross the street. Drawing a line
from the top of the shadow to the top of the tree shows azimuth 162°. There is also a shadow of a telefone pole over the street (west of the pine) that shows an azimuth 167°. So let's take a mean value of 164.5° and *YES* we take that as the azimuth of the
sun when the sat image was taken. Now at the bottom of the screen you find the info that this image was taken April 22nd 2015. This is bad news as it means the trees are even bigger now. But it's also good news as we can go to the NOAA solar calculator and
find out that the time for this azimuth must have been 11:30 UTC and the elevation of the sun was 48.1°. Now for the height of the pine (2015!) it is as simple as that:
The height (measured from the elevation at the top of the shadow) is just the horizontal length of the shadow in meters (on the map) multiplied with tan(48.1°). In our case:
h = 19.14m * tan(48.1°) = 19.14m * 1.115 = 21.33m
This seems rather big but as I said, it's measured from the elevation of the top of the shadow while the tree stands maybe 4m uphill. I attach one more *.kmz that you can download and open by double click with "Google Earth PRO" installed. This of course is
just a blue print for what you can do outside now in summer 2022. Observe the shadows of the trees and where they originate from (protect your eyes and don't look directly in the sun!). You can go a little bit inside the top of the shadow and still see where
it originates from. Find out the according horizontal distance and note the time. Go to the NOAA solar calculator and find the elevation of the sun at the time you noted. Double check you use the same time zone. I always use UTC on all my GNU/Linux PCs and
try not to mess with MEZ and DST and the like. With the elevation found do the simple math above.
Cheers,
Ernst (the teacher)
P.S.
You can walk a street in "Google Earth PRO" by grabbing and pulling the yellow 'Oscar' top right down to the street with your mouse. Then you can look around and navigate with your mouse (also use the wheel). The images of the street in front of your home date
from September 2021 as displayed again at the bottom of the screen. And *YES*, if we look up we see rather big trees :-\ ...
I think the arrowed tree may be the right-hand tree of a gap we can see in your picture.Robert,
the arrowed tree does not matter at all. Forget all the trees beyond the end of the red line in Robert_Moore_Antenna.kmz. You *must* also tell your "Google Earth PRO" not to tilt the view if you zoom in. It just makes the image unreadable. You change this setting under: Tools/Options/Navigation/Do not tilt when zooming in (freely translated from my german "Google Earth PRO" version). The (possibly) offending trees are much closer than you seem to think. Maybe the method with the sun elevation and shadow will give more insight if the wood is inaccessible anyway. Meanwhile it's certainly a good thing to try to make that image from the rear of your garden.
Remember: From the point you take the image (with your antenna in the center of the picture):
- The antenna must appear at azimuth 163.6°. Use the sun with passing time or your compass.
- The center of the antenna should be at elevation 27.9° as measured with your inclinometer
- The distance to your antenna does not matter, it is just used to adjust the inclination to 27.9°
If you cannot fullfill any of these points exactly, then make the picture anyway and comment on the problem you had and deviation you expect.
Good luck,
Ernst
From: George Sz <szgydezign@...>
To: MSG-1@groups.io
Sent: Mon, 4 Jul 2022 20:43
Subject: Re: [MSG-1] some progress
There are reasons I explicitly specified those two transponders (BFBS and AFP):
1. there are no such frequencies on 9°E
2. a sat TV installer tech may end up pointing to 9°E instead of 10°E and with a dish big enough, that 1° off may result in a big loss!
3. both of these TPs are standard DVB ones, no ACM/VCM so any decent sat meter can lock onto these without any issue
Robert,
I checked around your location and what you're saying makes a lot more sense now. Those trees are indeed very close to your dish. I'm not yet sure about the hill behind.
Regards,
George
Ernst I’m not sure the whole list is interested in forestry and gardening – do you think we should go off-list? My attempted email to you bounced.
Robert
Sent: 06 July 2022 01:26
To: MSG-1@groups.io
Subject: Re: [MSG-1] some progress
On Tue, Jul 5, 2022 at 04:10 PM, Robert Moore wrote:
I think the arrowed tree may be the right-hand tree of a gap we can see in your picture.
Robert,
the arrowed tree does not matter at all. Forget all the trees beyond the end of the red line in Robert_Moore_Antenna.kmz. You *must* also tell your "Google Earth PRO" not to tilt the view if you zoom in. It just makes the image unreadable. You change this setting
under: Tools/Options/Navigation/Do not tilt when zooming in (freely translated from my german "Google Earth PRO" version). The (possibly) offending trees are much closer than you seem to think. Maybe the method with the sun elevation and shadow will give
more insight if the wood is inaccessible anyway. Meanwhile it's certainly a good thing to try to make that image from the rear of your garden.
Remember: From the point you take the image (with your antenna in the center of the picture):
- The antenna must appear at azimuth 163.6°. Use the sun with passing time or your compass.
- The center of the antenna should be at elevation 27.9° as measured with your inclinometer
- The distance to your antenna does not matter, it is just used to adjust the inclination to 27.9°
If you cannot fullfill any of these points exactly, then make the picture anyway and comment on the problem you had and deviation you expect.
Good luck,
Ernst
Ernst I’m not sure the whole list is interested in forestry and gardening – doIt's a problem which affects many users, and I've had complaints about it being
you think we should go off-list? My attempted email to you bounced.
Robert
a topic for discussion. I suggest continuing on-list.
Cheers,
David
--
SatSignal Software - Quality software for you
Web: https://www.satsignal.eu
Email: david-taylor@...
Twitter: @gm8arv
Robert
From: MSG-1@groups.io <MSG-1@groups.io> On Behalf Of David J Taylor GM8ARV ?????????????? ???? via groups.io
Sent: 06 July 2022 16:29
To: MSG-1@groups.io
Subject: Re: [MSG-1] some progress
On 06/07/2022 15:29, Robert Moore wrote:
Ernst I’m not sure the whole list is interested in forestry andIt's a problem which affects many users, and I've had complaints about it being a topic for discussion. I suggest continuing on-list.
gardening – do you think we should go off-list? My attempted email to you bounced.
Robert
Cheers,
David
--
SatSignal Software - Quality software for you
Web: https://www.satsignal.eu
Email: david-taylor@...
Twitter: @gm8arv
I think this is as good as it will get from ground level Ernst. Tripod set up with inclinometer mounted at my eye height. Checked centre of dish was at 28 degrees (thickness of scale marks used to approximate to 27.99) and on the 163.5 azimuth (closest to 163.63). Inclinometer replaced by camera. Two shots: dish-0 is using a standard four thirds 25 mm lens, dish-1 using a four thirds 75 mm lens. Both shots taken using cable release (bit over overkill really).
Robert
Sent: 06 July 2022 01:26
To: MSG-1@groups.io
Subject: Re: [MSG-1] some progress
On Tue, Jul 5, 2022 at 04:10 PM, Robert Moore wrote:
I think the arrowed tree may be the right-hand tree of a gap we can see in your picture.
Robert,
the arrowed tree does not matter at all. Forget all the trees beyond the end of the red line in Robert_Moore_Antenna.kmz. You *must* also tell your "Google Earth PRO" not to tilt the view if you zoom in. It just makes the image unreadable. You change this setting
under: Tools/Options/Navigation/Do not tilt when zooming in (freely translated from my german "Google Earth PRO" version). The (possibly) offending trees are much closer than you seem to think. Maybe the method with the sun elevation and shadow will give
more insight if the wood is inaccessible anyway. Meanwhile it's certainly a good thing to try to make that image from the rear of your garden.
Remember: From the point you take the image (with your antenna in the center of the picture):
- The antenna must appear at azimuth 163.6°. Use the sun with passing time or your compass.
- The center of the antenna should be at elevation 27.9° as measured with your inclinometer
- The distance to your antenna does not matter, it is just used to adjust the inclination to 27.9°
If you cannot fullfill any of these points exactly, then make the picture anyway and comment on the problem you had and deviation you expect.
Good luck,
Ernst
Provided these pictures have been taken the way you described and you do not have a summer fog that just starts behind your home, then these shots should give us hope:
-- I do not see any trees in the line of sight which means we can probably forget beam blocking from big trees opposite your street alltogether
-- If I zoom into your pictures I do see the dish is turned to the left (too far east). For azimuth 163.6° the LNB arm should be hidden by the mast!
-- Last but not least it appears to me your LNB is turned clockwise (CW) as seen from behind the dish. But for E10A -- east of your location --
we found a considerable Skew = -9.7° which means the LNB should be turned counterclockwise (CCW) by -9.7° as seen from behind the dish.
I suggest you point your next engineer to this thread. It has got a little bit long but don't let him tell you TLDR. For what it is worth I add a picture
from "Google Earth PRO" with a hand tuned *.kml file (*.kml is text, *.kmz is zipped *.kml). It doesn't tell us much, but it's good looking anyway.
Cheers,
Ernst
in addition to what I just said: I cannot see from behind how your dish does handle elevation setting. But it seems to me that, with a little help from Murphy,
you can even fix this mount upside down. Do you have any pointers to some documentation or manual of your dish. Does anybody else know this dish?
Ernst
I think, ‘one thing at a time’, Ernst. So far, with your notes, my picture and a new engineer I have high hopes of reception with the dish right way up. If the current errors are as drastic as you suggest, then when corrected them we might be able to lower the dish to its original position level with the guttering. Just before my troubles started I had excellent reception.
Robert
Sent: 06 July 2022 20:39
To: MSG-1@groups.io
Subject: Re: [MSG-1] some progress
Robert,
in addition to what I just said: I cannot see from behind how your dish does handle elevation setting. But it seems to me that, with a little help from Murphy,
you can even fix this mount upside down. Do you have any pointers to some documentation or manual of your dish. Does anybody else know this dish?
Ernst
I didn't suggest your dish is upside down :-). But when you buy a dish you normally have to assemble it by screwing the mount to it and also the LNB arm. Mecanically it makes sense how it looks on your pictures now and the dish elevation looks about as expected. But the 4 screws that hold the parabola blade seem to allow Murphy to do his job. There are also antennas that have two elevation markings and depending on the elevation range you must use scale one or scale two and maybe even assemble the mount differently. And tuning elevation is as sensitive as azimuth. So all I want to say is: Your next engineer must double check your antenna elevation as well. And for that purpose it's always helpful if you can find the original assembly manual for that dish. We certainly all hope that with 'one thing at a time' you can get back to a far better SNR and receive your GOES16 images again.
Best regards,
Ernst