Topics

Railline Box Cars and Grandt Stirrup Steps


Dusty
 

I had ACCed the stirrup steps yesterday and had allowed them to harden overnight. Today I trimmed the protrusions and out of eight one let loose. That sucks. I decided to try to bond the styrene and delrin/celcon/whatever plastics by CAREFULLY melting them with a cautery pen. The process went fast, easy to lineup and hold. No ACC creeping thru the hole but a solid connection. You could use any number of methods to melt the plastics. Some probably better in practise than others.

Time will tell if this was a good idea or a 'what was I thinking' moment.

Dusty Burman 



John G Massura
 

Correct me if I’m wrong, but aren’t both the Grandt Line steps and the Railline boxcar styrene? If so, a drop of MEK or Testors should do the trick.

John

On Apr 22, 2020, at 11:21, Dusty <Dustburm@q.com> wrote:

I had ACCed the stirrup steps yesterday and had allowed them to harden overnight. Today I trimmed the protrusions and out of eight one let loose. That sucks. I decided to try to bond the styrene and delrin/celcon/whatever plastics by CAREFULLY melting them with a cautery pen. The process went fast, easy to lineup and hold. No ACC creeping thru the hole but a solid connection. You could use any number of methods to melt the plastics. Some probably better in practise than others.

Time will tell if this was a good idea or a 'what was I thinking' moment.

Dusty Burman 

<15875722103602635291986481164875.jpg>


Lawrence Wisniewski <lwreno@...>
 

The latest version of grandt stirrups are Delrin and don,t respond to styrene solvents. Occassionally, 
ACC does fail, but if you use the proper drill size, you can keep that problem to a minimum.  There are some ACC's that are advertised as effective with delrin, butI have no experience with them.


-----Original Message-----
From: John G Massura <jmassura@...>
To: HOn3@groups.io
Sent: Wed, Apr 22, 2020 3:09 pm
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Railline Box Cars and Grandt Stirrup Steps

Correct me if I’m wrong, but aren’t both the Grandt Line steps and the Railline boxcar styrene? If so, a drop of MEK or Testors should do the trick.

John

On Apr 22, 2020, at 11:21, Dusty <Dustburm@q.com> wrote:

I had ACCed the stirrup steps yesterday and had allowed them to harden overnight. Today I trimmed the protrusions and out of eight one let loose. That sucks. I decided to try to bond the styrene and delrin/celcon/whatever plastics by CAREFULLY melting them with a cautery pen. The process went fast, easy to lineup and hold. No ACC creeping thru the hole but a solid connection. You could use any number of methods to melt the plastics. Some probably better in practise than others.

Time will tell if this was a good idea or a 'what was I thinking' moment.

Dusty Burman 

<15875722103602635291986481164875.jpg>


Lawrence Wisniewski <lwreno@...>
 

Given the thinness of the bottom edge of Railline box cars, I was never tempted to try melting the pins.  I've also seen melting fail on this type of part too, by the way.  The trick to keeping these pins in place in my experience is to mike the pin diameter and then use the closest drill size that will allow the pin to enter the hole.  Drilling the hole with too large a drill also guarantees that the part will exit sooner or later.  I notice some obviously loose steps on a few of my Railine cars, but have not lost a single step since I learned to us my caliper for drill selection back around 1985.  Friction takes up where ACC left off.


-----Original Message-----
From: Dusty <Dustburm@q.com>
To: HOn3@groups.io
Sent: Wed, Apr 22, 2020 12:21 pm
Subject: [HOn3] Railline Box Cars and Grandt Stirrup Steps

I had ACCed the stirrup steps yesterday and had allowed them to harden overnight. Today I trimmed the protrusions and out of eight one let loose. That sucks. I decided to try to bond the styrene and delrin/celcon/whatever plastics by CAREFULLY melting them with a cautery pen. The process went fast, easy to lineup and hold. No ACC creeping thru the hole but a solid connection. You could use any number of methods to melt the plastics. Some probably better in practise than others.

Time will tell if this was a good idea or a 'what was I thinking' moment.

Dusty Burman 



Dusty
 

This car is a stealth dragger car so the floor has to be removable to maintain the dragger. I've made the Masonite pad as narrow (and long) as possible an still go thru a #4 switch. This enabled me to install the outside truss rods to try to obscure the dragger.

I've gone thru the small, tight hole versus the larger (lets the ACC get more grip) hole exercise in the past. When the hole goes thru the side sill it doesn't really make much difference.

Dusty Burman 


Lawrence Wisniewski <lwreno@...>
 

It's been awhile since I did a railine car but my recollection of the grandt stirrup is a pin size of .016.  Granted that it can be difficult to drill a truly round hole in a thin piece of styrene using a pin vice, but I found that this drill size in combination with my usual wobble gave me a snug but easy fit.  The stirrup would stay in place even when I was doing an open door model and disassembled the body from the floor prior to painting.  I always used the lower grab irons on the car ends to hold the body in place on the finished car by drilling all the way thru the end beams and pushing in extra long legged wire grabs.  I had to scrape the holes for the stirrups flush with the body interior so most of the ACC was lost to begin with.   I'm fairly delicate with my plastic rolling stock and I have basically used the same technique for all my cars(around 150)equipped with Grandt parts.  I haven't lost any stirrups since returning to HOn3 around 2005.  Delrin parts can be very frustrating at times, but at least forgive us when we whack something by accident.   As far as ACC goes, I've used the same brand for roughly 30 years and have the distinct impression that it is no longer as good as it used to be.  Such is my experience, for what it's worth.  

 


-----Original Message-----
From: Dusty <Dustburm@q.com>
To: HOn3@groups.io
Sent: Wed, Apr 22, 2020 4:32 pm
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Railline Box Cars and Grandt Stirrup Steps

This car is a stealth dragger car so the floor has to be removable to maintain the dragger. I've made the Masonite pad as narrow (and long) as possible an still go thru a #4 switch. This enabled me to install the outside truss rods to try to obscure the dragger.

I've gone thru the small, tight hole versus the larger (lets the ACC get more grip) hole exercise in the past. When the hole goes thru the side sill it doesn't really make much difference.

Dusty Burman 


 

Dusty,

What are you using to hold your trucks on?

Bruce Dunlevy


_._,_._,_

 


Dusty
 

For many years I've used 0-80 screws in tapped 2mm brass tubing. Recently in cars that I dont have to test fit trucks and couplers I tap the plastic bolster and floor. I use nylon screws because they are 'self locking' due to the quality of their casting. Pan head or fillester depending on the fit of the truck bolster.

Product-components.com sells 500 for $25 plus shipping. Same company sells 50 for $12 free ship on E-bay.

Dusty Burman 


Mick Moignard
 

I too have a RailLine box car as a dragger, bit I've no need to get inside mine for maintenance.  Most times I drill a RL car right thru after the floor goes in permanently and press in the Grandt stirrips; ACC (and I agree with Lawrence, ACC doesn't seem to be what it used to be) them on the inside.

My dragger has a nug glued to the inside floor and the drag material held with a lage bolt, head recessed into the material. I have pads of different material, MDF, balsa and even one which is a Peco track rubber when stuff gets really hard.  

Mick Moignard


Andrew Thompson
 

You might want to check out Dr Mikes glue (www.drmikesglue.com).  I've had pretty good results with just about anything I've used it on, including delrin.  He's been around for a number of years and, if you're in the mid-Atlantic area, often exhibits at train and model shows.

Andy T


LARRY KLOSE
 

With PBL styrene Cars and their Delrin/Celcon steps I insert the steps and then put several applications of MEK Inside on the hole around the pins. That shrinks the styrene around the pin enough to hold it. I do the same for grab irons. I’ve never lost a step or grab after using this method. A tight fit in the hole works best.

Larry Klose


Dusty
 

This car is my first attempt at constructing a drag type track cleaner that will blend into an operating session. My vision of a 'maintainable' dragger pad is removable, replaceable, variable weighting and attachment method. This first cut uses two threaded 1/4 oz weights on the cleaning pad. Time will tell if this car will be relatively obscure and functional.


lloyd lehrer
 

Jim Vail used masonite dragers on  his reefers. They did not have any extra weight on them as I recall.  His track was about as flawless as ever and the trains just ran and ran.

lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 9:15 AM Dusty <Dustburm@q.com> wrote:
This car is my first attempt at constructing a drag type track cleaner that will blend into an operating session. My vision of a 'maintainable' dragger pad is removable, replaceable, variable weighting and attachment method. This first cut uses two threaded 1/4 oz weights on the cleaning pad. Time will tell if this car will be relatively obscure and functional.


--
lloyd lehrer


Alan Kilby
 

You can put studs on back of pad that slide into tubes mounted in underside of floor.This way pad/Masonite block is removable to be cleaned or exchanged with different block,gravity holds block down so it doesn't need weight.A friend uses these on his large 2 level HO scale layout(90 x50 foot train room).It takes 5 people a weekend to clean all the  track by hand and he only has 2/3 of  the track laid.By running trains with these removable blocks he only cleans track by hand in long unused areas.
Alan


 

Dusty,

What length of screw did you get? Thanks

Bruce Dunlevy


On Apr 23, 2020, at 12:30 AM, Dusty <dustburm@q.com> wrote:

For many years I've used 0-80 screws in tapped 2mm brass tubing. Recently in cars that I dont have to test fit trucks and couplers I tap the plastic bolster and floor. I use nylon screws because they are 'self locking' due to the quality of their casting. Pan head or fillester depending on the fit of the truck bolster.

Product-components.com sells 500 for $25 plus shipping. Same company sells 50 for $12 free ship on E-bay.

Dusty Burman 


Dusty
 

Bruce,
I get the longest I can. 1/2" are good. I made these cutting fixtures in several thicknesses. I cut off the screws with a single edge razor blade or a scalpel.

Dusty Burman 


Mark Kasprowicz
 

Some confusion here. RailLine stirups are styrene, they're part of one of the sprues, mine never included any alternative. Grandt Line were Derlin and a bugger to glue, so my alterntive was PSC brass ones. 

Draggers. Hayden and Frary ran draggers in their consists, so did Peter Bartlett, another fine HOn30 modeler and a good friend, now sadly passed.  Although the pads were quite large, they were not noticable. I don't run draggers in a consist. Instead my track cleaners gut PUSHED around the track before the loco's get to it and pick stuff up on their wheels. Bad days the CRC car gets the outing with pads dampened with Laquer thinner. Windows wide open for this one or you'll end up in the land of the faries.

Fellows in Oz were using something called CRC 2-62 and found they didn't have to track clean as much. Gerry Hopkins was one as I recall. I've got some but am wary of using it, a bit like Wahl clipper oil -  afraid of putting down, it not working and having to clean it all off.

Mark K
Cell 62, Prison (er Lockdown) in the UK. Jeez not only am I running out of projects but the present Mrs K is running out of Honey do's for me as well .What a situation.