Topics

Modeling for 3D printing

Bill Lugg
 

For those that have produced models for 3D printing, what are your thoughts regarding including rivets in the model vs. applying Archer or Micro Mark rivets after the fact?  If you're in favor of applying rivet detail to the model prior to printing, how do you approach it to minimize model size and maximize the quality of the appearance?

Thanks
Bill Lugg

rick@...
 

Bill,

Resin printers would have no problem with rivets. The filament printers can handle it if the rivets aren't too small. I can do tests if it helps.

Rick

Bruce
 

I have a <$200 FDM printer.  I have had, IMO, some pretty good success printing HO scale items; scale house and tracks, throwbars, bridle straps for stub turnouts and a pretty nice switch stand.

The attached photo shows the switch stand before removing the "raft" used as part of the printing process.

However, it I wanted to add nut/bolt or rivet detail I would need to get a resin printer.  I have been looking at two specific printers, Epax X1 and Elegoo Mars, $400 and $350 respectively.  The Elegoo Mars has been on sale in July and August for $250.

I have held off so I could concentrate on getting my EBT v3.2 layout ready for track.  Can't do it all at the same time.

Bruce Bowie
Huron Ohio

Russ Norris
 

Nice work Bruce.  I love the scale track.

Live and direct from the NNGC in Sacramento!

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 4:46 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
I have a <$200 FDM printer.  I have had, IMO, some pretty good success printing HO scale items; scale house and tracks, throwbars, bridle straps for stub turnouts and a pretty nice switch stand.

The attached photo shows the switch stand before removing the "raft" used as part of the printing process.

However, it I wanted to add nut/bolt or rivet detail I would need to get a resin printer.  I have been looking at two specific printers, Epax X1 and Elegoo Mars, $400 and $350 respectively.  The Elegoo Mars has been on sale in July and August for $250.

I have held off so I could concentrate on getting my EBT v3.2 layout ready for track.  Can't do it all at the same time.

Bruce Bowie
Huron Ohio


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Dale Buxton
 

Here is what I know. 

FDM (filament) printers have a downward limit to how small of a thing they can print. Generally it is the inside diameter of the printer head where molten plastic comes out. The smallest inside bore of an extruder head I've seen is 1/10 of a mm (0.1mm) There is a whole gamut of items to take into consideration when printing at this small of a diameter. Like the temperature at the nozzle, printer axis speed, cooling time required for the type of plastic used. Everything I've read on line and seen on Youtube tells me that these are real bugaboos to dial in at high detail resolutions. FDM printers print in layers. So the second limitation to these printers is the minimum amount of printer thickness that they can produce. The thinner the print layer, the longer the print will take.

Since these machines print flat layers. You can not expect them to produce a dome or cone shape in something as small as an HO Scale rivet head. The absolute best you will get is a set of ever descending little plateaus of disks stacked on top of on another. You will be able to see this without too much magnification! Low cost FDM machines just can't produce ultra-fine resolution in a print.  

This brings us to SLA or Stereo Lithography liquid resin printers. These machines can do much finer details. But, other than the "Elegoo Mars " they are expensive!  The Formlabs "Form3" runs about $3500 and will print raised and recessed surface details down to 25 microns. There at 1000 microns in a millimeter! so that is pretty impressive. The SLA machines also print in layers. Most of them suggest that you tilt your model to help obscure the print layers. The Form3 would have no problems pulling off a dome shaped rivet head in HO Scale

I have an Elegoo Mars. I haven't had much time to learn all of its capabilities yet. (My day job has been keeping me to busy this year) But it is slightly better than the highest resolution low cost FDM printers out there. It will print down to 0.01mm in thickness.
The Elegoo Mars should be able to pull off a more convincing dome shaped rivet head than just about any low cost FDM printer out there. Their resin cost isn't too bad either.

Dale Buxton


On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 5:56 PM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
Nice work Bruce.  I love the scale track.

Live and direct from the NNGC in Sacramento!

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 4:46 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
I have a <$200 FDM printer.  I have had, IMO, some pretty good success printing HO scale items; scale house and tracks, throwbars, bridle straps for stub turnouts and a pretty nice switch stand.

The attached photo shows the switch stand before removing the "raft" used as part of the printing process.

However, it I wanted to add nut/bolt or rivet detail I would need to get a resin printer.  I have been looking at two specific printers, Epax X1 and Elegoo Mars, $400 and $350 respectively.  The Elegoo Mars has been on sale in July and August for $250.

I have held off so I could concentrate on getting my EBT v3.2 layout ready for track.  Can't do it all at the same time.

Bruce Bowie
Huron Ohio

--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Mike Conder
 

I have been using rivets and NBW detail on many of my 3D models but only for resin printing.   Many are about 1" scale items, haven't really tried smaller.

 I don't think most FDM printers have the resolution to print these successfully.  I've tried it once on some roundhouse doors but it failed.

Mike Conder

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 4:56 PM Bill Lugg <luggw1@...> wrote:
For those that have produced models for 3D printing, what are your
thoughts regarding including rivets in the model vs. applying Archer or
Micro Mark rivets after the fact?  If you're in favor of applying rivet
detail to the model prior to printing, how do you approach it to
minimize model size and maximize the quality of the appearance?

Thanks
Bill Lugg



Ric Case
 

Gents we have been working on details for the EBT cars we are printing. We can do it with the resin printer s but the pla printer doesn’t give us the ability to print the tiny rivet details for HON3.

Ric 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:16 PM, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:

I have been using rivets and NBW detail on many of my 3D models but only for resin printing.   Many are about 1" scale items, haven't really tried smaller.

 I don't think most FDM printers have the resolution to print these successfully.  I've tried it once on some roundhouse doors but it failed.

Mike Conder

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 4:56 PM Bill Lugg <luggw1@...> wrote:
For those that have produced models for 3D printing, what are your
thoughts regarding including rivets in the model vs. applying Archer or
Micro Mark rivets after the fact?  If you're in favor of applying rivet
detail to the model prior to printing, how do you approach it to
minimize model size and maximize the quality of the appearance?

Thanks
Bill Lugg



Bill Lugg
 

Well, for right now, I have to send my models to CraftCloud and I would be using the highest quality material they offer (Shapeways calls it Fine Detail Plastic, it's a resin based acrylic).

I'm currently saving up for a printer - from what I'm seeing for the budget I have, it looks like the Elegoo Mars might be in my future.

So, if the rivet was a small cube instead of a hemispherical dome, do you think it would be noticeable at the size they are on an HOn3 tender shell, for example?

Thanks for the info.
Bill Lugg

Ric Case
 

The rivet details are so small on the tender wrapper it will be almost impossible to tell the difference. The details on the EBT steel box car are small but can be seen as a dot on the side of the car!
We started with scale size rivet details but had to upsize them so they were not covered by the paint!
FWIW!
Ric Case
EBT Modeler
Hamilton Ohio
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 2, 2019, at 11:35 PM, Bill Lugg <@luggw1> wrote:

Well, for right now, I have to send my models to CraftCloud and I would be using the highest quality material they offer (Shapeways calls it Fine Detail Plastic, it's a resin based acrylic).

I'm currently saving up for a printer - from what I'm seeing for the budget I have, it looks like the Elegoo Mars might be in my future.

So, if the rivet was a small cube instead of a hemispherical dome, do you think it would be noticeable at the size they are on an HOn3 tender shell, for example?

Thanks for the info.
Bill Lugg


Dale Buxton
 

Let me answer in this way. Virtually all commercially made brass models with rivet detail have used the photo etch process to put those details on a sheet of brass. If those totally flat rivet details are acceptable to you. The resin printed versions should not trouble you either.

Dale Buxton

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 9:35 PM Bill Lugg <luggw1@...> wrote:
Well, for right now, I have to send my models to CraftCloud and I would
be using the highest quality material they offer (Shapeways calls it
Fine Detail Plastic, it's a resin based acrylic).

I'm currently saving up for a printer - from what I'm seeing for the
budget I have, it looks like the Elegoo Mars might be in my future.

So, if the rivet was a small cube instead of a hemispherical dome, do
you think it would be noticeable at the size they are on an HOn3 tender
shell, for example?

Thanks for the info.
Bill Lugg



Russ Norris
 

On the other hand, as I found in using Archer decal rivets on styrene structures, when you spray paint over the rivets it's hard to make out all that fine detail. 

Russ

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 8:25 PM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:
Gents we have been working on details for the EBT cars we are printing. We can do it with the resin printer s but the pla printer doesn’t give us the ability to print the tiny rivet details for HON3.

Ric 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:16 PM, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:

I have been using rivets and NBW detail on many of my 3D models but only for resin printing.   Many are about 1" scale items, haven't really tried smaller.

 I don't think most FDM printers have the resolution to print these successfully.  I've tried it once on some roundhouse doors but it failed.

Mike Conder

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 4:56 PM Bill Lugg <luggw1@...> wrote:
For those that have produced models for 3D printing, what are your
thoughts regarding including rivets in the model vs. applying Archer or
Micro Mark rivets after the fact?  If you're in favor of applying rivet
detail to the model prior to printing, how do you approach it to
minimize model size and maximize the quality of the appearance?

Thanks
Bill Lugg




--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

rick@...
 

Bill,

I am using an Elegoo Mars, and have had no problems with it so far. It can handle the rivets, but not sure if it can fit in the entire tender. The print volume is 4.7 x 2.6 x 6.1 high. You can probably print the tender parts separately. I an in Nn3, and ten feet is 3/4", so people are tiny, but printable on the Elegoo.

My FDM printer is an Ender 3, and it may be possible to orient the model so that the stairstepping isn't so noticealb3e on the rivets. I'd think a quick swipe with a needle file would take care of the steps easily anyway.

The Ender can use a 0.2mm nozzle and print close to the detail of the resin printers, so it is possible to get reasonably good HO scale prints with it. Some tests would show what to expect.

Rick

Ric Case
 

Russ I have found over the years to actually use slightly over size some details so you can still see them after painting! 
I air brush 90plus percent of all my models. That’s how I try to get the feeling of detailing .
Most of my structures are stage prop design. 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 3, 2019, at 7:32 AM, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:

On the other hand, as I found in using Archer decal rivets on styrene structures, when you spray paint over the rivets it's hard to make out all that fine detail. 

Russ

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 8:25 PM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:
Gents we have been working on details for the EBT cars we are printing. We can do it with the resin printer s but the pla printer doesn’t give us the ability to print the tiny rivet details for HON3.

Ric 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:16 PM, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:

I have been using rivets and NBW detail on many of my 3D models but only for resin printing.   Many are about 1" scale items, haven't really tried smaller.

 I don't think most FDM printers have the resolution to print these successfully.  I've tried it once on some roundhouse doors but it failed.

Mike Conder

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 4:56 PM Bill Lugg <luggw1@...> wrote:
For those that have produced models for 3D printing, what are your
thoughts regarding including rivets in the model vs. applying Archer or
Micro Mark rivets after the fact?  If you're in favor of applying rivet
detail to the model prior to printing, how do you approach it to
minimize model size and maximize the quality of the appearance?

Thanks
Bill Lugg




--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Russ Norris
 

I went the quick and dirty route, and used a rattle can of Rustoleum gray primer.  That may have been overkill.  I tend not to use an air brush if I can avoid it.  It's a basic fear of getting the thing set up and working.  I call it peumaphobia.

Russ

On Tue, Sep 3, 2019, 3:23 PM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:
Russ I have found over the years to actually use slightly over size some details so you can still see them after painting! 
I air brush 90plus percent of all my models. That’s how I try to get the feeling of detailing .
Most of my structures are stage prop design. 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 3, 2019, at 7:32 AM, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:

On the other hand, as I found in using Archer decal rivets on styrene structures, when you spray paint over the rivets it's hard to make out all that fine detail. 

Russ

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 8:25 PM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:
Gents we have been working on details for the EBT cars we are printing. We can do it with the resin printer s but the pla printer doesn’t give us the ability to print the tiny rivet details for HON3.

Ric 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:16 PM, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:

I have been using rivets and NBW detail on many of my 3D models but only for resin printing.   Many are about 1" scale items, haven't really tried smaller.

 I don't think most FDM printers have the resolution to print these successfully.  I've tried it once on some roundhouse doors but it failed.

Mike Conder

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 4:56 PM Bill Lugg <luggw1@...> wrote:
For those that have produced models for 3D printing, what are your
thoughts regarding including rivets in the model vs. applying Archer or
Micro Mark rivets after the fact?  If you're in favor of applying rivet
detail to the model prior to printing, how do you approach it to
minimize model size and maximize the quality of the appearance?

Thanks
Bill Lugg




--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Russ Norris
 

That's pneumaphobia!  


On Tue, Sep 3, 2019, 4:07 PM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
I went the quick and dirty route, and used a rattle can of Rustoleum gray primer.  That may have been overkill.  I tend not to use an air brush if I can avoid it.  It's a basic fear of getting the thing set up and working.  I call it peumaphobia.

Russ

On Tue, Sep 3, 2019, 3:23 PM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:
Russ I have found over the years to actually use slightly over size some details so you can still see them after painting! 
I air brush 90plus percent of all my models. That’s how I try to get the feeling of detailing .
Most of my structures are stage prop design. 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 3, 2019, at 7:32 AM, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:

On the other hand, as I found in using Archer decal rivets on styrene structures, when you spray paint over the rivets it's hard to make out all that fine detail. 

Russ

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 8:25 PM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:
Gents we have been working on details for the EBT cars we are printing. We can do it with the resin printer s but the pla printer doesn’t give us the ability to print the tiny rivet details for HON3.

Ric 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:16 PM, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:

I have been using rivets and NBW detail on many of my 3D models but only for resin printing.   Many are about 1" scale items, haven't really tried smaller.

 I don't think most FDM printers have the resolution to print these successfully.  I've tried it once on some roundhouse doors but it failed.

Mike Conder

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 4:56 PM Bill Lugg <luggw1@...> wrote:
For those that have produced models for 3D printing, what are your
thoughts regarding including rivets in the model vs. applying Archer or
Micro Mark rivets after the fact?  If you're in favor of applying rivet
detail to the model prior to printing, how do you approach it to
minimize model size and maximize the quality of the appearance?

Thanks
Bill Lugg




--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Bill Lugg
 

Well, the tender is a SP narrow gauge SC-39-3 tank.  It measures out to a little less than 2.5" long, 1" wide and 0.75 tall, so depending upon how I had to orient the thing in the tank, I think it would fit.  Would you say in general the Elegoo produces better results than the Ender 3 or does it depend on what you're printing?  What about durability of the printed parts - are the parts from one more "workable" than from the other.  In other words, if I had to drill holes or do some other post processing, is one better than the other for that?

Thanks
Bill Lugg

On 9/3/19 3:27 PM, rick@... wrote:
Bill,

I am using an Elegoo Mars, and have had no problems with it so far. It can handle the rivets, but not sure if it can fit in the entire tender. The print volume is 4.7 x 2.6 x 6.1 high. You can probably print the tender parts separately. I an in Nn3, and ten feet is 3/4", so people are tiny, but printable on the Elegoo.

My FDM printer is an Ender 3, and it may be possible to orient the model so that the stairstepping isn't so noticealb3e on the rivets. I'd think a quick swipe with a needle file would take care of the steps easily anyway.

The Ender can use a 0.2mm nozzle and print close to the detail of the resin printers, so it is possible to get reasonably good HO scale prints with it. Some tests would show what to expect.

Rick

Ric Case
 

Gents I have six airbrushes on my spray booth and an air eraser also. 
I have been spraying since the late sixties! Kind of tells my age. The problem is I still nothing but floquil. 
Unfortunately I am slowly running out of some colors. 
Don’t really like the new paints. I will have to use them sometime soon , but right now I have enough (100) plus bottles of floquil to keep me happy! Rattle cans are harder to control layer thickness! 
My resin printed cars Handle the
Petroleum based paint.
Russ keep me posted on how things are going out there.
You can stop by Cincinnati on your way back east lol!

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 3, 2019, at 7:07 PM, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:

I went the quick and dirty route, and used a rattle can of Rustoleum gray primer.  That may have been overkill.  I tend not to use an air brush if I can avoid it.  It's a basic fear of getting the thing set up and working.  I call it peumaphobia.

Russ

On Tue, Sep 3, 2019, 3:23 PM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:
Russ I have found over the years to actually use slightly over size some details so you can still see them after painting! 
I air brush 90plus percent of all my models. That’s how I try to get the feeling of detailing .
Most of my structures are stage prop design. 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 3, 2019, at 7:32 AM, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:

On the other hand, as I found in using Archer decal rivets on styrene structures, when you spray paint over the rivets it's hard to make out all that fine detail. 

Russ

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 8:25 PM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:
Gents we have been working on details for the EBT cars we are printing. We can do it with the resin printer s but the pla printer doesn’t give us the ability to print the tiny rivet details for HON3.

Ric 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:16 PM, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:

I have been using rivets and NBW detail on many of my 3D models but only for resin printing.   Many are about 1" scale items, haven't really tried smaller.

 I don't think most FDM printers have the resolution to print these successfully.  I've tried it once on some roundhouse doors but it failed.

Mike Conder

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 4:56 PM Bill Lugg <luggw1@...> wrote:
For those that have produced models for 3D printing, what are your
thoughts regarding including rivets in the model vs. applying Archer or
Micro Mark rivets after the fact?  If you're in favor of applying rivet
detail to the model prior to printing, how do you approach it to
minimize model size and maximize the quality of the appearance?

Thanks
Bill Lugg




--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Bill Lugg
 

Ric,
Take a look at http://www.narrowgaugemodeling.com/floquil-paint/ if you need to replace some Floquil paint.

Bill Lugg

On 9/3/19 5:38 PM, Ric Case wrote:
Gents I have six airbrushes on my spray booth and an air eraser also.
I have been spraying since the late sixties! Kind of tells my age. The problem is I still nothing but floquil.
Unfortunately I am slowly running out of some colors.
Don’t really like the new paints. I will have to use them sometime soon , but right now I have enough (100) plus bottles of floquil to keep me happy! Rattle cans are harder to control layer thickness!
My resin printed cars Handle the
Petroleum based paint.
Russ keep me posted on how things are going out there.
You can stop by Cincinnati on your way back east lol!

Ric Case
EBT Modeler
Hamilton Ohio
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 3, 2019, at 7:07 PM, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@... <mailto:rbnorrisjr@...>> wrote:

I went the quick and dirty route, and used a rattle can of Rustoleum gray primer.  That may have been overkill.  I tend not to use an air brush if I can avoid it.  It's a basic fear of getting the thing set up and working.  I call it peumaphobia.

Russ

On Tue, Sep 3, 2019, 3:23 PM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@... <mailto:ebtmodeler@...>> wrote:

Russ I have found over the years to actually use slightly over
size some details so you can still see them after painting!
I air brush 90plus percent of all my models. That’s how I try to
get the feeling of detailing .
Most of my structures are stage prop design.

Ric Case
EBT Modeler
Hamilton Ohio
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 3, 2019, at 7:32 AM, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...
<mailto:rbnorrisjr@...>> wrote:

On the other hand, as I found in using Archer decal rivets on
styrene structures, when you spray paint over the rivets it's
hard to make out all that fine detail.

Russ

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 8:25 PM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...
<mailto:ebtmodeler@...>> wrote:

Gents we have been working on details for the EBT cars we
are printing. We can do it with the resin printer s but the
pla printer doesn’t give us the ability to print the tiny
rivet details for HON3.

Ric

Ric Case
EBT Modeler
Hamilton Ohio
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:16 PM, Mike Conder
<vulturenest1@... <mailto:vulturenest1@...>> wrote:

I have been using rivets and NBW detail on many of my 3D
models but only for resin printing.   Many are about 1"
scale items, haven't really tried smaller.

 I don't think most FDM printers have the resolution to
print these successfully.  I've tried it once on some
roundhouse doors but it failed.

Mike Conder

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 4:56 PM Bill Lugg
<@luggw1
<mailto:@luggw1>> wrote:

For those that have produced models for 3D printing,
what are your
thoughts regarding including rivets in the model vs.
applying Archer or
Micro Mark rivets after the fact?  If you're in favor
of applying rivet
detail to the model prior to printing, how do you
approach it to
minimize model size and maximize the quality of the
appearance?

Thanks
Bill Lugg


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Mike Van Hove
 

Russ, 

I’ll be darned.  I thought I was the only one suffering from that disease.

“Peumaphobia”.   My phobia is one of setting it up, getting it going and then, in the blink of an eye, you’re done.  Then the fun begins, cleaning the darn thing.

i find that I can paint something with a good quality brush and be done, long before I would have the Air Brush cleaned out.

“Pneumaphobia”…. I like that and hope I can remember that word.

Thanks for the enlightenment.

Mike Van Hove

Columbia, MO

On Sep 3, 2019, at 6:07 PM, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:

I went the quick and dirty route, and used a rattle can of Rustoleum gray primer.  That may have been overkill.  I tend not to use an air brush if I can avoid it.  It's a basic fear of getting the thing set up and working.  I call it peumaphobia.

Russ

On Tue, Sep 3, 2019, 3:23 PM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:
Russ I have found over the years to actually use slightly over size some details so you can still see them after painting! 
I air brush 90plus percent of all my models. That’s how I try to get the feeling of detailing .
Most of my structures are stage prop design. 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 3, 2019, at 7:32 AM, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:

On the other hand, as I found in using Archer decal rivets on styrene structures, when you spray paint over the rivets it's hard to make out all that fine detail. 

Russ

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 8:25 PM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:
Gents we have been working on details for the EBT cars we are printing. We can do it with the resin printer s but the pla printer doesn’t give us the ability to print the tiny rivet details for HON3.

Ric 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:16 PM, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:

I have been using rivets and NBW detail on many of my 3D models but only for resin printing.   Many are about 1" scale items, haven't really tried smaller.

 I don't think most FDM printers have the resolution to print these successfully.  I've tried it once on some roundhouse doors but it failed.

Mike Conder

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 4:56 PM Bill Lugg <luggw1@...> wrote:
For those that have produced models for 3D printing, what are your
thoughts regarding including rivets in the model vs. applying Archer or
Micro Mark rivets after the fact?  If you're in favor of applying rivet
detail to the model prior to printing, how do you approach it to
minimize model size and maximize the quality of the appearance?

Thanks
Bill Lugg






--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/



--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Russ Norris
 

Ric et al, the 39th National Narrow Gauge Convention is under way.  This morning some of us were treated to a private tour of the historic Central Pacific's Sacramento Locomotive Shops where the California State Railroad Museum stores and restores historic locomotives and cars.  Most of the equipment we saw is standard gauge, but there was some narrow gauge steam and logging equipment as well.  Here are a few of the sights.


On Tue, Sep 3, 2019, 4:38 PM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:
Gents I have six airbrushes on my spray booth and an air eraser also. 
I have been spraying since the late sixties! Kind of tells my age. The problem is I still nothing but floquil. 
Unfortunately I am slowly running out of some colors. 
Don’t really like the new paints. I will have to use them sometime soon , but right now I have enough (100) plus bottles of floquil to keep me happy! Rattle cans are harder to control layer thickness! 
My resin printed cars Handle the
Petroleum based paint.
Russ keep me posted on how things are going out there.
You can stop by Cincinnati on your way back east lol!

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 3, 2019, at 7:07 PM, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:

I went the quick and dirty route, and used a rattle can of Rustoleum gray primer.  That may have been overkill.  I tend not to use an air brush if I can avoid it.  It's a basic fear of getting the thing set up and working.  I call it peumaphobia.

Russ

On Tue, Sep 3, 2019, 3:23 PM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:
Russ I have found over the years to actually use slightly over size some details so you can still see them after painting! 
I air brush 90plus percent of all my models. That’s how I try to get the feeling of detailing .
Most of my structures are stage prop design. 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 3, 2019, at 7:32 AM, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:

On the other hand, as I found in using Archer decal rivets on styrene structures, when you spray paint over the rivets it's hard to make out all that fine detail. 

Russ

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 8:25 PM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:
Gents we have been working on details for the EBT cars we are printing. We can do it with the resin printer s but the pla printer doesn’t give us the ability to print the tiny rivet details for HON3.

Ric 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:16 PM, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:

I have been using rivets and NBW detail on many of my 3D models but only for resin printing.   Many are about 1" scale items, haven't really tried smaller.

 I don't think most FDM printers have the resolution to print these successfully.  I've tried it once on some roundhouse doors but it failed.

Mike Conder

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 4:56 PM Bill Lugg <luggw1@...> wrote:
For those that have produced models for 3D printing, what are your
thoughts regarding including rivets in the model vs. applying Archer or
Micro Mark rivets after the fact?  If you're in favor of applying rivet
detail to the model prior to printing, how do you approach it to
minimize model size and maximize the quality of the appearance?

Thanks
Bill Lugg




--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/