Topics

Frame Windows

Russ Norris
 

I am scratch building an old mill from photos and personal measurements.  I need a source for 4/4 double hung frame windows approximately 3 feet by 6 feet.  Does anyone know of vendors other than Tichy and Grandt Line?  They have a variety of double hung windows, but not in the size I need.
--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Mark Rosche
 

Hi Russ,

I had a similar dilemma when working on a stamp mill in S scale...I finally broke down an purchased a SLA 3D printer (around $300) to make the darn things myself...with Fusion 360 (free for hobbyists) it took me all of 30min to design the window frames and a bit of time (depends on the layer thickness)to print them..it seemed expensive at first for „just a few window frames“ but I have put it through its paces for all sorts of things (working on a turntable bridge at the moment) and the investment was well worth it...

Just my $0.02...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

John
 

I had the same problem for an engine house. I just cut up the Grand windows and sectioned them together to make the size I needed. This was before 3d printers. The next time I need custom sizes, I'm going to just print them.
John Peckham


On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 12:54 PM, Mark Rosche via Groups.Io
<m_rosche@...> wrote:
Hi Russ,

I had a similar dilemma when working on a stamp mill in S scale...I finally broke down an purchased a SLA 3D printer (around $300) to make the darn things myself...with Fusion 360 (free for hobbyists) it took me all of 30min to design the window frames and a bit of time (depends on the layer thickness)to print them..it seemed expensive at first for „just a few window frames“ but I have put it through its paces for all sorts of things (working on a turntable bridge at the moment) and the investment was well worth it...

Just my $0.02...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

lloyd lehrer
 

30x80 is not close enough?

lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019, 12:43 PM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
I am scratch building an old mill from photos and personal measurements.  I need a source for 4/4 double hung frame windows approximately 3 feet by 6 feet.  Does anyone know of vendors other than Tichy and Grandt Line?  They have a variety of double hung windows, but not in the size I need.
--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


--
lloyd lehrer

Jeff Young
 

Some of the white-metal casting folks have windows. SSLtd, B.E.S.T., maybe B.T.S.? I don’t recall any that big, though.

Bruce
 

Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?

Russ Norris
 

I may have to live with it.  It would be narrower and taller by 6-8 inches.  I'll give it some thought.


On Sun, Nov 17, 2019, 4:45 PM lloyd lehrer <lloydlehrer@...> wrote:
30x80 is not close enough?

lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019, 12:43 PM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
I am scratch building an old mill from photos and personal measurements.  I need a source for 4/4 double hung frame windows approximately 3 feet by 6 feet.  Does anyone know of vendors other than Tichy and Grandt Line?  They have a variety of double hung windows, but not in the size I need.
--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

--
lloyd lehrer


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

prichie@...
 

Russ,
Check out the Shapeways site there are a lot of windows in there you can use or adapt Paul R,.

On Mon, Nov 18th, 2019 at 7:43 AM, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:

I am scratch building an old mill from photos and personal measurements. 
I need a source for 4/4 double hung frame windows approximately 3 feet by
6 feet.  Does anyone know of vendors other than Tichy and Grandt Line? 
They have a variety of double hung windows, but not in the size I need.
--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/



Mark Rosche
 

Hi Bruce,

I purchased the Elgoo Mars SLA printer, I use Fusion 360 (hobbyist license) to model and Chitubox as the slicer as I am a Mac user...only tip I can offer that has been hard to find is that you should „prime“ the build plate with a light coat of resin and UV it for a couple of minutes...this allows the flimsy window frames and other fine parts to be removed without damage...sorry I cannot show any pics at the moment as my workshop is all packed up at the moment for renovations...the FDA pics look pretty good though.

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

kevin b
 

Bruce:
am sending you an email off list in reference to this topic.
in case your spam filter kicks it out, please be watching for it.
thanks
Kevin.


On Sunday, November 17, 2019, 4:23:45 PM CST, Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:

I have an inexpensive FDM printer. I have had decent success with windows and doors. However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road. This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

Mike Conder
 

Your prints look goo, what "Z' setting do you use?

I was looking at an Elegoo Mars resin printer, but I just "inherited" a Bibo FDM printer.  I'll play with that for a while before going resin.  Bibo specs say that the Z can be 0.05 mm, same as the Elegoo, so we'll see how fine it can print.

Right now I'm using SketchUp for the 3D design but just downloaded Fusion 360.

Mike Conder


On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 3:23 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?

Mark Rosche
 

Hi Mike,

I made the switch from FDM to SLA (also the Elgoo Mars) and have not looked back since. I print quite a few window frames (and will be attempting a 3 part Sn3 turntable bridge) and I use a 0.02mm layer height for the very fragile frames (could go to 0.01mm but for printing speed sake chose a bit more...0.01mm would take twice as long) with great results.  I also use Fusion360 for 3D modeling and am very satisfied (SolidWorks being simply way too expensive for private use).

If you decide to go the SLA route, be sure to use ChiTu slicer software. It has presets for the Mars printer that give good results (I still set the layer height manually as well as lengthen the exposure time a bit (opaque resins need a longer exposure time than transparent resins). Tip number two:  when printing „flat“ objects such as window frames, priming the base plate is a must if you wish to remove your prints without damaging them...simply „paint“ a layer of resin on the plate with a brush and expose it to a UV light (which you will need anyway to fully cure the resin prints) for 20-30 seconds...this way when you use the scraper to remove the prints from the base plate, they will not be damaged.

3D printing with resin is a bit messier then FDA but the better results are well worth the extra effort...I would post some pics but my workshop is under renovation at the moment and all my stuff is packed up in moving boxes...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

On 1. Dec 2019, at 02:13, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Your prints look goo, what "Z' setting do you use?

I was looking at an Elegoo Mars resin printer, but I just "inherited" a Bibo FDM printer.  I'll play with that for a while before going resin.  Bibo specs say that the Z can be 0.05 mm, same as the Elegoo, so we'll see how fine it can print.

Right now I'm using SketchUp for the 3D design but just downloaded Fusion 360.

Mike Conder

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 3:23 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?

Mike Mackey
 

Hi Mark,

Please contact me offline regarding your 3D printer. 

This building was done on my PolyPrinter 229. 

Mike
Railroadguy1957@...


On Dec 1, 2019, at 3:44 AM, Mark Rosche via Groups.Io <m_rosche@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,

I made the switch from FDM to SLA (also the Elgoo Mars) and have not looked back since. I print quite a few window frames (and will be attempting a 3 part Sn3 turntable bridge) and I use a 0.02mm layer height for the very fragile frames (could go to 0.01mm but for printing speed sake chose a bit more...0.01mm would take twice as long) with great results.  I also use Fusion360 for 3D modeling and am very satisfied (SolidWorks being simply way too expensive for private use).

If you decide to go the SLA route, be sure to use ChiTu slicer software. It has presets for the Mars printer that give good results (I still set the layer height manually as well as lengthen the exposure time a bit (opaque resins need a longer exposure time than transparent resins). Tip number two:  when printing „flat“ objects such as window frames, priming the base plate is a must if you wish to remove your prints without damaging them...simply „paint“ a layer of resin on the plate with a brush and expose it to a UV light (which you will need anyway to fully cure the resin prints) for 20-30 seconds...this way when you use the scraper to remove the prints from the base plate, they will not be damaged.

3D printing with resin is a bit messier then FDA but the better results are well worth the extra effort...I would post some pics but my workshop is under renovation at the moment and all my stuff is packed up in moving boxes...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

On 1. Dec 2019, at 02:13, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Your prints look goo, what "Z' setting do you use?

I was looking at an Elegoo Mars resin printer, but I just "inherited" a Bibo FDM printer.  I'll play with that for a while before going resin.  Bibo specs say that the Z can be 0.05 mm, same as the Elegoo, so we'll see how fine it can print.

Right now I'm using SketchUp for the 3D design but just downloaded Fusion 360.

Mike Conder

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 3:23 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?

Craig Linn
 

Mike. That is fantastic!!!

Craig

On Dec 1, 2019, at 8:31 AM, Mike Mackey via Groups.Io <Railroadguy1957@...> wrote:

Hi Mark,

Please contact me offline regarding your 3D printer. 

This building was done on my PolyPrinter 229. 

Mike
Railroadguy1957@...
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>


On Dec 1, 2019, at 3:44 AM, Mark Rosche via Groups.Io <m_rosche@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,

I made the switch from FDM to SLA (also the Elgoo Mars) and have not looked back since. I print quite a few window frames (and will be attempting a 3 part Sn3 turntable bridge) and I use a 0.02mm layer height for the very fragile frames (could go to 0.01mm but for printing speed sake chose a bit more...0.01mm would take twice as long) with great results.  I also use Fusion360 for 3D modeling and am very satisfied (SolidWorks being simply way too expensive for private use).

If you decide to go the SLA route, be sure to use ChiTu slicer software. It has presets for the Mars printer that give good results (I still set the layer height manually as well as lengthen the exposure time a bit (opaque resins need a longer exposure time than transparent resins). Tip number two:  when printing „flat“ objects such as window frames, priming the base plate is a must if you wish to remove your prints without damaging them...simply „paint“ a layer of resin on the plate with a brush and expose it to a UV light (which you will need anyway to fully cure the resin prints) for 20-30 seconds...this way when you use the scraper to remove the prints from the base plate, they will not be damaged.

3D printing with resin is a bit messier then FDA but the better results are well worth the extra effort...I would post some pics but my workshop is under renovation at the moment and all my stuff is packed up in moving boxes...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

On 1. Dec 2019, at 02:13, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Your prints look goo, what "Z' setting do you use?

I was looking at an Elegoo Mars resin printer, but I just "inherited" a Bibo FDM printer.  I'll play with that for a while before going resin.  Bibo specs say that the Z can be 0.05 mm, same as the Elegoo, so we'll see how fine it can print.

Right now I'm using SketchUp for the 3D design but just downloaded Fusion 360.

Mike Conder

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 3:23 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?

Mike Mackey
 

Thanks Craig. I printed the building but the painting and weathering was done by my friend Bob Brendle. Bob has two articles in the annul this year. 

I use Kissslicer and Polypronter software. When I draw I use Fusion 360. 

Mike

On Dec 1, 2019, at 9:47 AM, Craig Linn <drgw346@...> wrote:

Mike. That is fantastic!!!

Craig

On Dec 1, 2019, at 8:31 AM, Mike Mackey via Groups.Io <Railroadguy1957@...> wrote:

Hi Mark,

Please contact me offline regarding your 3D printer. 

This building was done on my PolyPrinter 229. 

Mike
Railroadguy1957@...
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>


On Dec 1, 2019, at 3:44 AM, Mark Rosche via Groups.Io <m_rosche@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,

I made the switch from FDM to SLA (also the Elgoo Mars) and have not looked back since. I print quite a few window frames (and will be attempting a 3 part Sn3 turntable bridge) and I use a 0.02mm layer height for the very fragile frames (could go to 0.01mm but for printing speed sake chose a bit more...0.01mm would take twice as long) with great results.  I also use Fusion360 for 3D modeling and am very satisfied (SolidWorks being simply way too expensive for private use).

If you decide to go the SLA route, be sure to use ChiTu slicer software. It has presets for the Mars printer that give good results (I still set the layer height manually as well as lengthen the exposure time a bit (opaque resins need a longer exposure time than transparent resins). Tip number two:  when printing „flat“ objects such as window frames, priming the base plate is a must if you wish to remove your prints without damaging them...simply „paint“ a layer of resin on the plate with a brush and expose it to a UV light (which you will need anyway to fully cure the resin prints) for 20-30 seconds...this way when you use the scraper to remove the prints from the base plate, they will not be damaged.

3D printing with resin is a bit messier then FDA but the better results are well worth the extra effort...I would post some pics but my workshop is under renovation at the moment and all my stuff is packed up in moving boxes...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

On 1. Dec 2019, at 02:13, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Your prints look goo, what "Z' setting do you use?

I was looking at an Elegoo Mars resin printer, but I just "inherited" a Bibo FDM printer.  I'll play with that for a while before going resin.  Bibo specs say that the Z can be 0.05 mm, same as the Elegoo, so we'll see how fine it can print.

Right now I'm using SketchUp for the 3D design but just downloaded Fusion 360.

Mike Conder

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 3:23 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?

Mike Conder
 

Thanks Mark.  I was intending to start with the Elegoo from day one but free is free!  Couple of questions:
  • Do you see any shrinkage in the dimensions between the drawing and actual piece?
  • Do you UV cure your parts?
  • What resin are you using ... Elegoo's?   Have you tried the Siraya Blu?
I may need to wait on the resin printer either until it get warmer here (for the garage) or until my boomerangs move out of the basement into their own place.  Meantime, FDM tests will begin shortly.  Not all prints need that super high quality, especially jigs and things.

Mike Conder


On Sun, Dec 1, 2019 at 2:44 AM Mark Rosche via Groups.Io <m_rosche=yahoo.de@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Mike,

I made the switch from FDM to SLA (also the Elgoo Mars) and have not looked back since. I print quite a few window frames (and will be attempting a 3 part Sn3 turntable bridge) and I use a 0.02mm layer height for the very fragile frames (could go to 0.01mm but for printing speed sake chose a bit more...0.01mm would take twice as long) with great results.  I also use Fusion360 for 3D modeling and am very satisfied (SolidWorks being simply way too expensive for private use).

If you decide to go the SLA route, be sure to use ChiTu slicer software. It has presets for the Mars printer that give good results (I still set the layer height manually as well as lengthen the exposure time a bit (opaque resins need a longer exposure time than transparent resins). Tip number two:  when printing „flat“ objects such as window frames, priming the base plate is a must if you wish to remove your prints without damaging them...simply „paint“ a layer of resin on the plate with a brush and expose it to a UV light (which you will need anyway to fully cure the resin prints) for 20-30 seconds...this way when you use the scraper to remove the prints from the base plate, they will not be damaged.

3D printing with resin is a bit messier then FDA but the better results are well worth the extra effort...I would post some pics but my workshop is under renovation at the moment and all my stuff is packed up in moving boxes...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

On 1. Dec 2019, at 02:13, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Your prints look goo, what "Z' setting do you use?

I was looking at an Elegoo Mars resin printer, but I just "inherited" a Bibo FDM printer.  I'll play with that for a while before going resin.  Bibo specs say that the Z can be 0.05 mm, same as the Elegoo, so we'll see how fine it can print.

Right now I'm using SketchUp for the 3D design but just downloaded Fusion 360.

Mike Conder

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 3:23 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?

Mike Conder
 

Nicely done Mike Mackey!

Is the PolyPrinter resin or FDM?

Mike Conder

Mike Mackey
 

FDM

Mike

On Dec 1, 2019, at 12:42 PM, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Nicely done Mike Mackey!

Is the PolyPrinter resin or FDM?

Mike Conder

Mike Mackey
 

Thanks Mike. I did the print, but Bob Brendle did the build, paint and weathering. Bob has two articles in the HOn3 annual this year. He does fabulous work. 

Mike

On Dec 1, 2019, at 12:42 PM, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Nicely done Mike Mackey!

Is the PolyPrinter resin or FDM?

Mike Conder

Mark Rosche
 

Hi Mike,  

1. I have noticed no shrinkage yet (probably has to do with the thin layer height and longer exposure times I use). My dial caliper can measure 0.01mm and I measure the parts after curing.  

2. Absolutely!!! If you do not UV cure your SLA printed parts, they will be a bit soft and their stability cannot be guaranteed.  After printing, you need to wash the print in IPA (not beer) to remove any uncured resin, dry (I use an airbrush to blast away the IPA) and then into the UV curer.  I built my own UV curing contraption consisting of a plastic euro-container with lid, a 5m UV LED strip wound around the inside of the box and a motorized turntable from alibaba.  Got the idea from a youtube video someone else had done...proudly found somewhere else 😁

3. I have used Elgoo and Anycubic so far (both for 405nm wavelength SLA printers)...if Siraya Blu is for 405nm, it should work...you might have to play around with the settings though

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

On 1. Dec 2019, at 19:40, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Thanks Mark.  I was intending to start with the Elegoo from day one but free is free!  Couple of questions:
  • Do you see any shrinkage in the dimensions between the drawing and actual piece?
  • Do you UV cure your parts?
  • What resin are you using ... Elegoo's?   Have you tried the Siraya Blu?
I may need to wait on the resin printer either until it get warmer here (for the garage) or until my boomerangs move out of the basement into their own place.  Meantime, FDM tests will begin shortly.  Not all prints need that super high quality, especially jigs and things.

Mike Conder


On Sun, Dec 1, 2019 at 2:44 AM Mark Rosche via Groups.Io <m_rosche=yahoo.de@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Mike,

I made the switch from FDM to SLA (also the Elgoo Mars) and have not looked back since. I print quite a few window frames (and will be attempting a 3 part Sn3 turntable bridge) and I use a 0.02mm layer height for the very fragile frames (could go to 0.01mm but for printing speed sake chose a bit more...0.01mm would take twice as long) with great results.  I also use Fusion360 for 3D modeling and am very satisfied (SolidWorks being simply way too expensive for private use).

If you decide to go the SLA route, be sure to use ChiTu slicer software. It has presets for the Mars printer that give good results (I still set the layer height manually as well as lengthen the exposure time a bit (opaque resins need a longer exposure time than transparent resins). Tip number two:  when printing „flat“ objects such as window frames, priming the base plate is a must if you wish to remove your prints without damaging them...simply „paint“ a layer of resin on the plate with a brush and expose it to a UV light (which you will need anyway to fully cure the resin prints) for 20-30 seconds...this way when you use the scraper to remove the prints from the base plate, they will not be damaged.

3D printing with resin is a bit messier then FDA but the better results are well worth the extra effort...I would post some pics but my workshop is under renovation at the moment and all my stuff is packed up in moving boxes...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

On 1. Dec 2019, at 02:13, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Your prints look goo, what "Z' setting do you use?

I was looking at an Elegoo Mars resin printer, but I just "inherited" a Bibo FDM printer.  I'll play with that for a while before going resin.  Bibo specs say that the Z can be 0.05 mm, same as the Elegoo, so we'll see how fine it can print.

Right now I'm using SketchUp for the 3D design but just downloaded Fusion 360.

Mike Conder

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 3:23 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?