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drywal

Steve Hatch
 
Edited

 
 

It's taken awhile to get back to "the room" but I finally did.
   The walls and ceiling have their drywall hung.   I got all the sheet rock up and
now it's time to tape and mud the room.    Not looking forward to this.
 I can do it, I've done it many times in the past, but I'm not the best
drywall finisher around.   The best is my friend capt Mac (John McKenzie) of
McKenzie Brothers Timber Co in Vacaville CA
 http://www.mckenziebrotherstimberco.com/
But we live a thousand miles apart now. (my fault I moved)
Any way here's the progress photos of the drywall.
-Steve Hatch

 

 

Robert Bell
 

That's awesome, Steve.  I am like you, I can do drywall - but I hate doing it.  

Rob Bell
Waynesville, NC

Brian Kopp
 

Steve,
HD or Lowes rent drywall lifts for about $37 a day. Or you can buy one on amazon for $130 and resell it.....

Just saying...... =)
-- 
Brian (JEALOUS THAT I DONT HAVE A TRAIN ROOM ADDITION) Kopp
Jacksonville, FL

Matt
 

FWIW 
Use a 4"knife in your corners to tape and a 6" on the bed seams.....let dry completly (condtions dictate) do not try to build on your tape coat........Then 6" knife on corners and start building your bed seams......less is more as thinner coats dry faster and keep you from disturbing what is down.......bed seams should be about 12" wide when your read to sand....screw/nail holes two coats scrap flat between coats and the tie all together in rows with a thin wipe again less is more....

There are four levels to dry wall mud for average results......level five work the whole area is rolled with thinned mud and then sanded lightly but it is an art at that point.....

the rock work looks good btw....if you have any large gaps ceiling to wall wall to wall etc fill with glue liquid nail caulk gun let dry before you tape......filling gaps like that with mud can cause things not to dry and make job more frustrating....

Hope this helps....

Matt