Topics

Tortoise Power Supply

asandrini
 

Just wondering what power supply people are using to operate their Tortoise machines.

What is the voltage output?
How many amps?
How many machines does your power supply operate? Are you using g more than one power supply.

I am going to have about 40 machines when I am through, unless I convert the ground through turnouts on the lower of three levels. If I did, that would increase the machines bay another 25.

Thanks for the help,

Big Al from Cal



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

lloyd lehrer
 

I used my old DC controller and as I added more I just turned it up a little. 

lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097

On Sun, Aug 18, 2019, 5:04 PM asandrini <asandrini@...> wrote:
Just wondering what power supply people are using to operate their Tortoise machines.

What is the voltage output?
How many amps?
How many machines does your power supply operate? Are you using g more than one power supply.

I am going to have about 40 machines when I am through, unless I convert the ground through turnouts on the lower of three levels. If I did, that would increase the machines bay another 25.

Thanks for the help,

Big Al from Cal



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


--
lloyd lehrer

 

I use wall wart's... old cell phone charger, electric shaver, remote landline phone, kids disc player... anything that gives me 9 volts output dc or better. Amps... all less than 1 amp. I use one for each tortoise. I only have four on my layout... all operated from panels on the fascia with toggle switches.

Gordon Spalty

asandrini
 

Are you setting the throttle at any particular voltage?  More voltage, the faster it throws.  I have seen some videos, where the points move at a realistic slow speed.

I tried mine at 9 volts, with a 5000 mAh power supply, but it is a little slow. Nut j know that the Amps are there to handle the load.  The 12 volt power supply has less Amps, but much quicker throwing.

Just wanting to find out what others are using.

Al



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: lloyd lehrer <lloydlehrer@...>
Date: 8/18/19 5:15 PM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Tortoise Power Supply

I used my old DC controller and as I added more I just turned it up a little. 

lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097

On Sun, Aug 18, 2019, 5:04 PM asandrini <asandrini@...> wrote:
Just wondering what power supply people are using to operate their Tortoise machines.

What is the voltage output?
How many amps?
How many machines does your power supply operate? Are you using g more than one power supply.

I am going to have about 40 machines when I am through, unless I convert the ground through turnouts on the lower of three levels. If I did, that would increase the machines bay another 25.

Thanks for the help,

Big Al from Cal



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


--
lloyd lehrer

Russ Norris
 

I also use wall warts, but in conjunction with Touch Toggle controls that give me a colored LED indicator.  I can run up to 8 Tortoise machines with a set of Touch Toggles operating off a single wall wart.  Right now I have 16 machines hooked up this way, and I am starting to tackle the main dual gauge yard that will run another 16 machines using the same method.  I make a simple control panel from an inexpensive picture frame bought at the local craft store.  I print up a copy of the track plan and press in against the inside of the glass. The Touch Toggles are mounted behind the paper track plan with double sided sticky tape. Then I use cotten batting to hold everything tight against the glass and put screw a wooded back on the frame. The frame mounts on the layout fascia and presto!  To throw the switch I touch the light on the panel and magically it changes color as the switch moves. 



On Sun, Aug 18, 2019 at 9:09 PM Doc Bond <boomer1944@...> wrote:
I use wall wart's... old cell phone charger, electric shaver, remote landline phone, kids disc player... anything that gives me 9 volts output dc or better. Amps... all less than 1 amp. I use one for each tortoise. I only have four on my layout... all operated from panels on the fascia with toggle switches.

Gordon Spalty


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Mike Conder
 

Al, Circuitron says that the Tortoise takes 15 mA per unit at stall (I.e., most of the time) with 12V input.  So a 500 mA wall wart should handle about 30 machines safely.

I assume the current needs may go up at lower voltages, or just slower operation as mentioned above.

BTW, a moving Tortoise only requires 4 mA.

Mike Conder

Bill Lugg
 

I built a power supply using two transformers and bridge rectifiers (there might be some other components in there - my Dad, the electrical guru helped me with that) and I tied the + of one to the - of the other like the Tortoise instructions show in diagram 2. So, I've got a common and a + and a - leg coming out of the power supply.  I then run bus wires around the layout similar to the DCC bus, but not twisted.  When finished, I'll have about 55 machines fed from a 12 VDC, 2 amp (guessing here) power supply.  I connect the machines via 20 AWG wire soldered to the bus run to Molex edge connectors at the Tortoises.  I use liquid electrical tape to cover the connections.

HTH
Bill Lugg

On 8/18/19 6:04 PM, asandrini wrote:
Just wondering what power supply people are using to operate their Tortoise machines.

What is the voltage output?
How many amps?
How many machines does your power supply operate? Are you using g more than one power supply.

I am going to have about 40 machines when I am through, unless I convert the ground through turnouts on the lower of three levels. If I did, that would increase the machines bay another 25.

Thanks for the help,

Big Al from Cal

asandrini
 

Moke,

I have a couple of chargers for old cordless drills.  Amps are plenty, but output is a little high.  Need more than 12 volt output to charge a 12 volt drill. I have a lot of chargers and warts around. 

Have run the switch bus around the railroad and need to check the drop at various positions.  Machines are on two of the three levels, but the run is about 150 feet.

I have an old MRC Control Master X (10), which puts out 5 amps. I could use that, as the railroad is DCC operated.  Might be my best option.


Thanks,

Al



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...>
Date: 8/18/19 7:56 PM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Tortoise Power Supply

Al, Circuitron says that the Tortoise takes 15 mA per unit at stall (I.e., most of the time) with 12V input.  So a 500 mA wall wart should handle about 30 machines safely.

I assume the current needs may go up at lower voltages, or just slower operation as mentioned above.

BTW, a moving Tortoise only requires 4 mA.

Mike Conder

Mike Conder
 

That would work really well, and could handle 300 Tortoises by my calcs.

Mike Conder

On Sun, Aug 18, 2019 at 9:35 PM asandrini <asandrini@...> wrote:
Moke,

I have a couple of chargers for old cordless drills.  Amps are plenty, but output is a little high.  Need more than 12 volt output to charge a 12 volt drill. I have a lot of chargers and warts around. 

Have run the switch bus around the railroad and need to check the drop at various positions.  Machines are on two of the three levels, but the run is about 150 feet.

I have an old MRC Control Master X (10), which puts out 5 amps. I could use that, as the railroad is DCC operated.  Might be my best option.


Thanks,

Al



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...>
Date: 8/18/19 7:56 PM (GMT-08:00)
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Tortoise Power Supply

Al, Circuitron says that the Tortoise takes 15 mA per unit at stall (I.e., most of the time) with 12V input.  So a 500 mA wall wart should handle about 30 machines safely.

I assume the current needs may go up at lower voltages, or just slower operation as mentioned above.

BTW, a moving Tortoise only requires 4 mA.

Mike Conder

Mark Kasprowicz
 

I simply used a one amp 12v - 0v - 12v transformer, a couple of diodes 1N4001 (I think) and wired the outputs as 12volts - 0v - MINUS 12 volts. The 0 v is common and goes to one power terminal all the point motors. The two 12 volt supplies are wired either side of a single pole double throw switch with the output going to the other Tortoise power terminal via a pair of reverse wired LED's which automatically lights up the way the turnouts are pointing and can also be used for signalling. I like it because it only uses one wire from the control panel to the Tortoise and none of that fiddly cross wiring at the back of switches. It's option 4 on the Circuitron instruction sheet.

I have 22 switch motors in circuit. Nothing gets even warm.

Mark K
Oxford England.

Mick Moignard
 

My 43 and their accessory decoders are all powered by the track outputs of my DCC command station.  Track is powered from seperate Boosters.

Mick

________________________________
Mick Moignard
m: +44 7774 652504
Skype: mickmoignard

, so please excuse the typos.

asandrini
 

Mark,

Great way of doing it.  I am not using panels, but have the schematic in the fascia board of the railroad, with the toggles in front if the turnouts.  As you walk along, you throw the turnouts, without reaching into the scenery, structures and telephone lines.

I added LED lighting to the back side of the fascia, which hangs 1" below the bench work framing, to light the levels below each shelf.


Strange layout, 24 feet long, 6 feet wide. 12" shelf on one side, with a 24" wide shelf on the other.  Three levels with stacked helices on o e end of the room.

Thanks 

Al



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Mark Kasprowicz <marowicz@...>
Date: 8/18/19 10:54 PM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Tortoise Power Supply

I simply used a one amp 12v - 0v - 12v transformer, a couple of diodes 1N4001 (I think) and wired the outputs as 12volts - 0v - MINUS 12 volts. The 0 v is common and goes to one power terminal all the point motors. The two 12 volt supplies are wired either side of a single pole double throw switch with the output going to the other Tortoise power terminal via a pair of reverse wired LED's which automatically lights up the way the turnouts are pointing and can also be used for signalling. I like it because it only uses one wire from the control panel to the Tortoise and none of that fiddly cross wiring at the back of switches. It's option 4 on the Circuitron instruction sheet.

I have 22 switch motors in circuit. Nothing gets even warm.

Mark K
Oxford England.

Mark Kasprowicz
 

Al,

Also a great idea, nearly did it myself as it is quite logical. Unusual? Heck this is model railroading- NOTHING makes sense.

Still making great Italian Sausage?

Mark

asandrini
 

Mark,

We usually make sausage at the end of January,  or the first week of February.  We need cold weather, so the meat stays cold.  We make it in my cousin's garage. Not the 3 car garage, but the two car garage that a car has never entered.  It has a 4x10 for table, with a 1" thick seal healing nylon top. It also has a deep sink, stove, refrigerator and a resin coated floor.

When we make the sausage, we leave the garage door open, so it gets very cold.  In fact, you cannot feel your fingers as we cut up the beef and pork for the sausage. 

We did not make it this year, as many had a good supply in their freezers. Hell. We had 50 pounds and were out in October.  

Al



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Mark Kasprowicz <marowicz@...>
Date: 8/19/19 10:28 AM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Tortoise Power Supply

Al,

Also a great idea, nearly did it myself as it is quite logical. Unusual? Heck this is model railroading- NOTHING makes sense.

Still making great Italian Sausage?

Mark

Brian Jansky
 

Very timely thread! I am reaching the point where I am looking at how to do this on my shelf layout. Mark, I hadn't given the method you described much though but I realize it appears to be a nice way to simplify the wiring involved. Any tips on where to find a one amp 12v - 0v - 12v transformer though? I assume, I could also use a pair of identical wall warts with the same setup as shown in option 2 here? Also, do all three lines get a diode? Finally, what LED's do you recommend?

Also, Russ, those touch toggles do look really neat! I will also look into those further.

Thanks,
Brian

Climax@...
 

I am using nce DCC and use two boosters.  One booster is for the HO 7 HOn3 track and the other is dedicated to the 37 Tortoise SM.  So far it has worked out perfectly.
DMB

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Jansky
Sent: Aug 19, 2019 11:32 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Tortoise Power Supply

Very timely thread! I am reaching the point where I am looking at how to do this on my shelf layout. Mark, I hadn't given the method you described much though but I realize it appears to be a nice way to simplify the wiring involved. Any tips on where to find a one amp 12v - 0v - 12v transformer though? I assume, I could also use a pair of identical wall warts with the same setup as shown in option 2 here? Also, do all three lines get a diode? Finally, what LED's do you recommend?

Also, Russ, those touch toggles do look really neat! I will also look into those further.

Thanks,
Brian

Mark Kasprowicz
 

Nothing, but nothing beats good Italian saugage. I didn't know you could freeze it though.
We had a German sausage shop nearby once. It was called
'The Wurst Shop in Town'.

Mark

Mark Kasprowicz
 

Brian,

Yes, diagram 2) shows a pair of wall warts used to feed the diode circuit in 4). Note that these are DC wall warts so no diodes are needed. you just have to connect the 12v output of one to the 0 volt output of the other and that will automatically give you the 12v - 0v - minus 12v you need.

Mark K

Russ Norris
 

Give the touch toggles a look, Brian.  They are made by a company called Berrit Hill (sp?) and the company has recently come out with some new products including controls that can be easily mounted directly in the fascia so you don't have anything projecting into the aisle.  The owner of the company is very helpful about how to install them.  They run about $10 per switch.  They also can provide a wall wart type power source for those who don't have a box of old ones like I do.

Russ

On Mon, Aug 19, 2019, 11:32 PM Brian Jansky <brianj844@...> wrote:
Very timely thread! I am reaching the point where I am looking at how to do this on my shelf layout. Mark, I hadn't given the method you described much though but I realize it appears to be a nice way to simplify the wiring involved. Any tips on where to find a one amp 12v - 0v - 12v transformer though? I assume, I could also use a pair of identical wall warts with the same setup as shown in option 2 here? Also, do all three lines get a diode? Finally, what LED's do you recommend?

Also, Russ, those touch toggles do look really neat! I will also look into those further.

Thanks,
Brian


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Mark Lewis
 

Brian and Russ:

I have used the Beritt(?) Touch Toggles while operating on John Shorts large HOn3 RGS layout and can say that they work great, making turnout control a snap (no pun intended!)

Mark Lewis 
narrow gauge modeling in N.C.

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019, 6:20 AM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
Give the touch toggles a look, Brian.  They are made by a company called Berrit Hill (sp?) and the company has recently come out with some new products including controls that can be easily mounted directly in the fascia so you don't have anything projecting into the aisle.  The owner of the company is very helpful about how to install them.  They run about $10 per switch.  They also can provide a wall wart type power source for those who don't have a box of old ones like I do.

Russ

On Mon, Aug 19, 2019, 11:32 PM Brian Jansky <brianj844@...> wrote:
Very timely thread! I am reaching the point where I am looking at how to do this on my shelf layout. Mark, I hadn't given the method you described much though but I realize it appears to be a nice way to simplify the wiring involved. Any tips on where to find a one amp 12v - 0v - 12v transformer though? I assume, I could also use a pair of identical wall warts with the same setup as shown in option 2 here? Also, do all three lines get a diode? Finally, what LED's do you recommend?

Also, Russ, those touch toggles do look really neat! I will also look into those further.

Thanks,
Brian


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/