Any chance we can change the subject line to reflect the subject being discussed? Don Peterson

Coupler "bounce" as you describe it only happens on cars with cushioned drawbars (auto racks, lumber racks and some box cars for example) narrow gauge cars of 50's and previous did not have cushioned

One must also understand how the draft (pulling) and buff (pushing) forces act on the prototype. When pulling up hill, the slack is stretched. It is going down grade where it gets interesting. The

Mint condition PFM Hi grade K-27 2-8-2. Runs like a Swiss watch. Has bag with extra screws. A couple small parts need to soldered back on the engine. No driver wear. Box is in mint condition with all

If you go to the HOn3 Narrow Gaugers Facebook group thereare pics of the #705 in Blackstone cars and compared to the #58 and Sergeant Sharon couplets. Also, I posted a reply I received from Kadee

Rob, I wasn’t aware it was called the trailing pilot, makes sense. I emailed PSC earlier this week and they weren’t aware of it either. Said they’d just taken over the business, if I had a

?I hate to burst Kadee's bubble. While the 705 will indeed go anywhere that a 714 will go. There are two problems. I just spent the last hour or so experimenting with this. 1. As I mentioned before,

Alright gents, I have solved this issue. Here's how you install the new 705 couplers in existing draft gear, without major surgery, and actually have them look right and center properly. 1: cut the

Here's the same solution applied to a Blackstone RGS flat.

Drew I saw your post and just did a Rail Line car. This is the ticket!!! I think it may be even easier than what you did. I did step 1 and and only part of step 2. At step 2 I cut the side walls off

Well, at least you heard back from PSC. I sent an email on March 14th, and never heard a word back. The locos were produced in 1992. I wouldn't , kind getting rid of one or both of the trailing

No I wasn’t aware of one on yahoo? I’ve never been there, I’m a big fan. Me and a buddy of mine made a trip to El Centro (US Gypsum Raiway)last year to look at the two motors that never made up

Dale, Re: Shank thickness/droop: Can't you just glue a strip of styrene to the coupler box or lid? I'm not concerned abput losing the automatic centering, which is unprototyipical anyway, as m pluch

Hi Drew, To me this seems like too much work for a supposedly drop-in replacement but that's just me I guess. At that rate you might aw well just remove the entire cast on box and replace it with the

The body isn't sitting quite right in these pictures...ignore that, it has been fixed. IF you are on Facebook look up my layout on www.facebook.com/WARRNC/ Also check out Mike May's incredible layout

Nathan, I agree about self-centering couplers not being prototypical. I use Sergent couplers and they don't self center and they work just fine for me. But, there are people in our HOn3 community

Generally speaking in the real world (prototype) it was the switchman or whoever was doing the switching work who would center the coupler to align it for coupling. I never saw a coupler that would

Kadee HOn3 #705 Coupler ------------------------ My conclusions after many tests The Coupler #705 can only be used with its housing. Any installation in a different housing is almost impossible

YES! Absolutely! I've watched train crews make up trains in Chama doing just this! The switchman puts his brake club in the draft gear area and aligns the coupler and its still being done today.

Hi Dale, I have BS, Rail Line, C&BT, and E&B Valley/MRGS equipment and a couple brass pieces and, AFAIK, they all have cast on, not Kadee, coupler boxes or, in the case of brass; none at all. I