Date   
Re: Update Train-op

LenTRaley
 

When extracting the downloaded zip file, my anti-virus program blocks the .exe program citing a threat
from "WS.reputation.1. This did not occur when I downloaded the program a couple of months ago.
Just thought you should know.

Len Raley

Re: MDC 3 Truck shay

Keith Wiseman
 

We do not have any complete kits right now, but will be making a few up the first of next year.  We do have loads of replacement parts available on ebay and Our web site.
 
Thanks,

Keith Wiseman
Wiseman Model Services Inc.
898 Blacks Cross Road
Paris KY 40361
859-484-9573
kwiseman9961@...
www.wisemanmodelservices.com

Re: Update Train-op

Steve Hatch
 

  My mistake on that file.  I had renamed it and forgot to "mention "that.
Sorry.   Just click on the (now replaced) name and the
file will download.
  That file will also download and unzip with the program. So if you have
that train-op zip file just unzip it and the file will be there.
-Steve

Re: Update Train-op

Mike Conder
 

Steve, I got the zip file but getting an error message on the .txt file.  Can you check that link?
www.railwayeng.com/9030railroad/file/train-opinfo.txt

Mike Conder

Re: Frame Windows

Mike Conder
 

All great info guys, I'm saving all of this for future (hopefully soon) use!

Mike Conder

Re: Frame Windows

Kent Hinton
 

Guys,

Mark is correct that UV exposure time affects the final part size, so does exposure time to IPA - greater than 30 seconds can cause the partially cured resin to swell - as well as the intrinsic shrinkage factor of the particular resin.  Try curing in distilled water.  The diffused light cures more evenly and helps reduce warpage on parts with large print layer cross sections, such as happens when printing flat to the plate.

Yes, the Siraya resins are 405nm.  I am having better success with Siraya Fast Grey than I did with Blu; plus it is less expensive.  Both are much more shatter resistant than the Anycubic or Monocure greys.  On my Anycubic Photon, 12 S exposure @ 50 um layer height is working best for my 24’ boxcar prints.

I second the recommendation for ChiTuBox slicer if it supports your printer.  Version 1.6.1 was released earlier this week and expanded the number of printers/file formats supported, as well as improved/activated several features.  The improvements in implementation of supports alone is worth the risk of upgrading.  Just be careful with the edit support tool.  It’s easy to accidentally change the connection point when you were trying to change the connection diameter; if you click off model when trying to move the view it will reattach to the closest point on the model.  

Kent Hinton

On Dec 1, 2019, at 11:08 AM, Mark Rosche via Groups.Io <m_rosche@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,  

1. I have noticed no shrinkage yet (probably has to do with the thin layer height and longer exposure times I use). My dial caliper can measure 0.01mm and I measure the parts after curing.  

2. Absolutely!!! If you do not UV cure your SLA printed parts, they will be a bit soft and their stability cannot be guaranteed.  After printing, you need to wash the print in IPA (not beer) to remove any uncured resin, dry (I use an airbrush to blast away the IPA) and then into the UV curer.  I built my own UV curing contraption consisting of a plastic euro-container with lid, a 5m UV LED strip wound around the inside of the box and a motorized turntable from alibaba.  Got the idea from a youtube video someone else had done...proudly found somewhere else 😁

3. I have used Elgoo and Anycubic so far (both for 405nm wavelength SLA printers)...if Siraya Blu is for 405nm, it should work...you might have to play around with the settings though

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

On 1. Dec 2019, at 19:40, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Thanks Mark.  I was intending to start with the Elegoo from day one but free is free!  Couple of questions:
  • Do you see any shrinkage in the dimensions between the drawing and actual piece?
  • Do you UV cure your parts?
  • What resin are you using ... Elegoo's?   Have you tried the Siraya Blu?
I may need to wait on the resin printer either until it get warmer here (for the garage) or until my boomerangs move out of the basement into their own place.  Meantime, FDM tests will begin shortly.  Not all prints need that super high quality, especially jigs and things.

Mike Conder


On Sun, Dec 1, 2019 at 2:44 AM Mark Rosche via Groups.Io <m_rosche=yahoo.de@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Mike,

I made the switch from FDM to SLA (also the Elgoo Mars) and have not looked back since. I print quite a few window frames (and will be attempting a 3 part Sn3 turntable bridge) and I use a 0.02mm layer height for the very fragile frames (could go to 0.01mm but for printing speed sake chose a bit more...0.01mm would take twice as long) with great results.  I also use Fusion360 for 3D modeling and am very satisfied (SolidWorks being simply way too expensive for private use).

If you decide to go the SLA route, be sure to use ChiTu slicer software. It has presets for the Mars printer that give good results (I still set the layer height manually as well as lengthen the exposure time a bit (opaque resins need a longer exposure time than transparent resins). Tip number two:  when printing „flat“ objects such as window frames, priming the base plate is a must if you wish to remove your prints without damaging them...simply „paint“ a layer of resin on the plate with a brush and expose it to a UV light (which you will need anyway to fully cure the resin prints) for 20-30 seconds...this way when you use the scraper to remove the prints from the base plate, they will not be damaged.

3D printing with resin is a bit messier then FDA but the better results are well worth the extra effort...I would post some pics but my workshop is under renovation at the moment and all my stuff is packed up in moving boxes...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

On 1. Dec 2019, at 02:13, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Your prints look goo, what "Z' setting do you use?

I was looking at an Elegoo Mars resin printer, but I just "inherited" a Bibo FDM printer.  I'll play with that for a while before going resin.  Bibo specs say that the Z can be 0.05 mm, same as the Elegoo, so we'll see how fine it can print.

Right now I'm using SketchUp for the 3D design but just downloaded Fusion 360.

Mike Conder

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 3:23 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?





Re: Frame Windows

Mark Rosche
 

Hi Mike,  

1. I have noticed no shrinkage yet (probably has to do with the thin layer height and longer exposure times I use). My dial caliper can measure 0.01mm and I measure the parts after curing.  

2. Absolutely!!! If you do not UV cure your SLA printed parts, they will be a bit soft and their stability cannot be guaranteed.  After printing, you need to wash the print in IPA (not beer) to remove any uncured resin, dry (I use an airbrush to blast away the IPA) and then into the UV curer.  I built my own UV curing contraption consisting of a plastic euro-container with lid, a 5m UV LED strip wound around the inside of the box and a motorized turntable from alibaba.  Got the idea from a youtube video someone else had done...proudly found somewhere else 😁

3. I have used Elgoo and Anycubic so far (both for 405nm wavelength SLA printers)...if Siraya Blu is for 405nm, it should work...you might have to play around with the settings though

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

On 1. Dec 2019, at 19:40, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Thanks Mark.  I was intending to start with the Elegoo from day one but free is free!  Couple of questions:
  • Do you see any shrinkage in the dimensions between the drawing and actual piece?
  • Do you UV cure your parts?
  • What resin are you using ... Elegoo's?   Have you tried the Siraya Blu?
I may need to wait on the resin printer either until it get warmer here (for the garage) or until my boomerangs move out of the basement into their own place.  Meantime, FDM tests will begin shortly.  Not all prints need that super high quality, especially jigs and things.

Mike Conder


On Sun, Dec 1, 2019 at 2:44 AM Mark Rosche via Groups.Io <m_rosche=yahoo.de@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Mike,

I made the switch from FDM to SLA (also the Elgoo Mars) and have not looked back since. I print quite a few window frames (and will be attempting a 3 part Sn3 turntable bridge) and I use a 0.02mm layer height for the very fragile frames (could go to 0.01mm but for printing speed sake chose a bit more...0.01mm would take twice as long) with great results.  I also use Fusion360 for 3D modeling and am very satisfied (SolidWorks being simply way too expensive for private use).

If you decide to go the SLA route, be sure to use ChiTu slicer software. It has presets for the Mars printer that give good results (I still set the layer height manually as well as lengthen the exposure time a bit (opaque resins need a longer exposure time than transparent resins). Tip number two:  when printing „flat“ objects such as window frames, priming the base plate is a must if you wish to remove your prints without damaging them...simply „paint“ a layer of resin on the plate with a brush and expose it to a UV light (which you will need anyway to fully cure the resin prints) for 20-30 seconds...this way when you use the scraper to remove the prints from the base plate, they will not be damaged.

3D printing with resin is a bit messier then FDA but the better results are well worth the extra effort...I would post some pics but my workshop is under renovation at the moment and all my stuff is packed up in moving boxes...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

On 1. Dec 2019, at 02:13, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Your prints look goo, what "Z' setting do you use?

I was looking at an Elegoo Mars resin printer, but I just "inherited" a Bibo FDM printer.  I'll play with that for a while before going resin.  Bibo specs say that the Z can be 0.05 mm, same as the Elegoo, so we'll see how fine it can print.

Right now I'm using SketchUp for the 3D design but just downloaded Fusion 360.

Mike Conder

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 3:23 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?

Re: Frame Windows

Mike Mackey
 

Thanks Mike. I did the print, but Bob Brendle did the build, paint and weathering. Bob has two articles in the HOn3 annual this year. He does fabulous work. 

Mike

On Dec 1, 2019, at 12:42 PM, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Nicely done Mike Mackey!

Is the PolyPrinter resin or FDM?

Mike Conder

Re: Frame Windows

Mike Mackey
 

FDM

Mike

On Dec 1, 2019, at 12:42 PM, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Nicely done Mike Mackey!

Is the PolyPrinter resin or FDM?

Mike Conder

Re: Frame Windows

Mike Conder
 

Nicely done Mike Mackey!

Is the PolyPrinter resin or FDM?

Mike Conder

Re: Frame Windows

Mike Conder
 

Thanks Mark.  I was intending to start with the Elegoo from day one but free is free!  Couple of questions:
  • Do you see any shrinkage in the dimensions between the drawing and actual piece?
  • Do you UV cure your parts?
  • What resin are you using ... Elegoo's?   Have you tried the Siraya Blu?
I may need to wait on the resin printer either until it get warmer here (for the garage) or until my boomerangs move out of the basement into their own place.  Meantime, FDM tests will begin shortly.  Not all prints need that super high quality, especially jigs and things.

Mike Conder


On Sun, Dec 1, 2019 at 2:44 AM Mark Rosche via Groups.Io <m_rosche=yahoo.de@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Mike,

I made the switch from FDM to SLA (also the Elgoo Mars) and have not looked back since. I print quite a few window frames (and will be attempting a 3 part Sn3 turntable bridge) and I use a 0.02mm layer height for the very fragile frames (could go to 0.01mm but for printing speed sake chose a bit more...0.01mm would take twice as long) with great results.  I also use Fusion360 for 3D modeling and am very satisfied (SolidWorks being simply way too expensive for private use).

If you decide to go the SLA route, be sure to use ChiTu slicer software. It has presets for the Mars printer that give good results (I still set the layer height manually as well as lengthen the exposure time a bit (opaque resins need a longer exposure time than transparent resins). Tip number two:  when printing „flat“ objects such as window frames, priming the base plate is a must if you wish to remove your prints without damaging them...simply „paint“ a layer of resin on the plate with a brush and expose it to a UV light (which you will need anyway to fully cure the resin prints) for 20-30 seconds...this way when you use the scraper to remove the prints from the base plate, they will not be damaged.

3D printing with resin is a bit messier then FDA but the better results are well worth the extra effort...I would post some pics but my workshop is under renovation at the moment and all my stuff is packed up in moving boxes...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

On 1. Dec 2019, at 02:13, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Your prints look goo, what "Z' setting do you use?

I was looking at an Elegoo Mars resin printer, but I just "inherited" a Bibo FDM printer.  I'll play with that for a while before going resin.  Bibo specs say that the Z can be 0.05 mm, same as the Elegoo, so we'll see how fine it can print.

Right now I'm using SketchUp for the 3D design but just downloaded Fusion 360.

Mike Conder

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 3:23 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?

Re: Frame Windows

Mike Mackey
 

Thanks Craig. I printed the building but the painting and weathering was done by my friend Bob Brendle. Bob has two articles in the annul this year. 

I use Kissslicer and Polypronter software. When I draw I use Fusion 360. 

Mike

On Dec 1, 2019, at 9:47 AM, Craig Linn <drgw346@...> wrote:

Mike. That is fantastic!!!

Craig

On Dec 1, 2019, at 8:31 AM, Mike Mackey via Groups.Io <Railroadguy1957@...> wrote:

Hi Mark,

Please contact me offline regarding your 3D printer. 

This building was done on my PolyPrinter 229. 

Mike
Railroadguy1957@...
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>


On Dec 1, 2019, at 3:44 AM, Mark Rosche via Groups.Io <m_rosche@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,

I made the switch from FDM to SLA (also the Elgoo Mars) and have not looked back since. I print quite a few window frames (and will be attempting a 3 part Sn3 turntable bridge) and I use a 0.02mm layer height for the very fragile frames (could go to 0.01mm but for printing speed sake chose a bit more...0.01mm would take twice as long) with great results.  I also use Fusion360 for 3D modeling and am very satisfied (SolidWorks being simply way too expensive for private use).

If you decide to go the SLA route, be sure to use ChiTu slicer software. It has presets for the Mars printer that give good results (I still set the layer height manually as well as lengthen the exposure time a bit (opaque resins need a longer exposure time than transparent resins). Tip number two:  when printing „flat“ objects such as window frames, priming the base plate is a must if you wish to remove your prints without damaging them...simply „paint“ a layer of resin on the plate with a brush and expose it to a UV light (which you will need anyway to fully cure the resin prints) for 20-30 seconds...this way when you use the scraper to remove the prints from the base plate, they will not be damaged.

3D printing with resin is a bit messier then FDA but the better results are well worth the extra effort...I would post some pics but my workshop is under renovation at the moment and all my stuff is packed up in moving boxes...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

On 1. Dec 2019, at 02:13, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Your prints look goo, what "Z' setting do you use?

I was looking at an Elegoo Mars resin printer, but I just "inherited" a Bibo FDM printer.  I'll play with that for a while before going resin.  Bibo specs say that the Z can be 0.05 mm, same as the Elegoo, so we'll see how fine it can print.

Right now I'm using SketchUp for the 3D design but just downloaded Fusion 360.

Mike Conder

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 3:23 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?

Re: Frame Windows

Craig Linn
 

Mike. That is fantastic!!!

Craig

On Dec 1, 2019, at 8:31 AM, Mike Mackey via Groups.Io <Railroadguy1957@...> wrote:

Hi Mark,

Please contact me offline regarding your 3D printer. 

This building was done on my PolyPrinter 229. 

Mike
Railroadguy1957@...
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>


On Dec 1, 2019, at 3:44 AM, Mark Rosche via Groups.Io <m_rosche@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,

I made the switch from FDM to SLA (also the Elgoo Mars) and have not looked back since. I print quite a few window frames (and will be attempting a 3 part Sn3 turntable bridge) and I use a 0.02mm layer height for the very fragile frames (could go to 0.01mm but for printing speed sake chose a bit more...0.01mm would take twice as long) with great results.  I also use Fusion360 for 3D modeling and am very satisfied (SolidWorks being simply way too expensive for private use).

If you decide to go the SLA route, be sure to use ChiTu slicer software. It has presets for the Mars printer that give good results (I still set the layer height manually as well as lengthen the exposure time a bit (opaque resins need a longer exposure time than transparent resins). Tip number two:  when printing „flat“ objects such as window frames, priming the base plate is a must if you wish to remove your prints without damaging them...simply „paint“ a layer of resin on the plate with a brush and expose it to a UV light (which you will need anyway to fully cure the resin prints) for 20-30 seconds...this way when you use the scraper to remove the prints from the base plate, they will not be damaged.

3D printing with resin is a bit messier then FDA but the better results are well worth the extra effort...I would post some pics but my workshop is under renovation at the moment and all my stuff is packed up in moving boxes...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

On 1. Dec 2019, at 02:13, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Your prints look goo, what "Z' setting do you use?

I was looking at an Elegoo Mars resin printer, but I just "inherited" a Bibo FDM printer.  I'll play with that for a while before going resin.  Bibo specs say that the Z can be 0.05 mm, same as the Elegoo, so we'll see how fine it can print.

Right now I'm using SketchUp for the 3D design but just downloaded Fusion 360.

Mike Conder

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 3:23 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?

Re: Frame Windows

Mike Mackey
 

Hi Mark,

Please contact me offline regarding your 3D printer. 

This building was done on my PolyPrinter 229. 

Mike
Railroadguy1957@...


On Dec 1, 2019, at 3:44 AM, Mark Rosche via Groups.Io <m_rosche@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,

I made the switch from FDM to SLA (also the Elgoo Mars) and have not looked back since. I print quite a few window frames (and will be attempting a 3 part Sn3 turntable bridge) and I use a 0.02mm layer height for the very fragile frames (could go to 0.01mm but for printing speed sake chose a bit more...0.01mm would take twice as long) with great results.  I also use Fusion360 for 3D modeling and am very satisfied (SolidWorks being simply way too expensive for private use).

If you decide to go the SLA route, be sure to use ChiTu slicer software. It has presets for the Mars printer that give good results (I still set the layer height manually as well as lengthen the exposure time a bit (opaque resins need a longer exposure time than transparent resins). Tip number two:  when printing „flat“ objects such as window frames, priming the base plate is a must if you wish to remove your prints without damaging them...simply „paint“ a layer of resin on the plate with a brush and expose it to a UV light (which you will need anyway to fully cure the resin prints) for 20-30 seconds...this way when you use the scraper to remove the prints from the base plate, they will not be damaged.

3D printing with resin is a bit messier then FDA but the better results are well worth the extra effort...I would post some pics but my workshop is under renovation at the moment and all my stuff is packed up in moving boxes...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

On 1. Dec 2019, at 02:13, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Your prints look goo, what "Z' setting do you use?

I was looking at an Elegoo Mars resin printer, but I just "inherited" a Bibo FDM printer.  I'll play with that for a while before going resin.  Bibo specs say that the Z can be 0.05 mm, same as the Elegoo, so we'll see how fine it can print.

Right now I'm using SketchUp for the 3D design but just downloaded Fusion 360.

Mike Conder

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 3:23 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?

Re: MDC 3 Truck shay

kevin b
 

On Saturday, November 30, 2019, 3:09:15 PM CST, Gary Crawford <gdm6605@...> wrote:
Still working the rebuild, up to and including the nwsl gear sets, currently building the electrical transfer through the trucks for the motors and possible dcc. It's a pain, but here I go, NWSL provided, I am going to get the kit done, regardless. Thank you, MDC, the kit is a good one, looking forward for more?


well, i'm on your side Gary.
I too wish for more MDC kits.....
such a shame Roundhouse MDC is long gone.
last I knew Atheran had bought 'em up but only kept a few things to run with their stuff and mostly scrapped the molds for all the rest.
there were some folks selling MDC stuff on ebay. from Oregon if i remember right. but it was all plastic, no metal parts, no locos etc.
only car bodies and detail bits etc.
anyway, as for any loco kits etc, I guess EBAY is likely to be the source.
Wiseman bought up a bunch of shay parts and stuff not too long ago, but he ran them on ebay already.
he may still have some parts? but I doubt he'd have any whole kits by now.
maybe if Mr. Wiseman sees this, he'll holler if he's got any goodies left.

i'd like to have a few more myself, but, it ain't like there is a supply of 'em…..
good luck on your search.
Kevin.


Re: MDC 3 Truck shay

Brian Kopp
 

Scott,
as an FYI I have had an order in at NWSL for some MDC shay gear kits since last March. With the change of ownership, it may be a while before they fulfill old orders, let alone a new order of these particular parts......

--
Brian Kopp
Jacksonville, FL

Re: Frame Windows

Mark Rosche
 

Hi Mike,

I made the switch from FDM to SLA (also the Elgoo Mars) and have not looked back since. I print quite a few window frames (and will be attempting a 3 part Sn3 turntable bridge) and I use a 0.02mm layer height for the very fragile frames (could go to 0.01mm but for printing speed sake chose a bit more...0.01mm would take twice as long) with great results.  I also use Fusion360 for 3D modeling and am very satisfied (SolidWorks being simply way too expensive for private use).

If you decide to go the SLA route, be sure to use ChiTu slicer software. It has presets for the Mars printer that give good results (I still set the layer height manually as well as lengthen the exposure time a bit (opaque resins need a longer exposure time than transparent resins). Tip number two:  when printing „flat“ objects such as window frames, priming the base plate is a must if you wish to remove your prints without damaging them...simply „paint“ a layer of resin on the plate with a brush and expose it to a UV light (which you will need anyway to fully cure the resin prints) for 20-30 seconds...this way when you use the scraper to remove the prints from the base plate, they will not be damaged.

3D printing with resin is a bit messier then FDA but the better results are well worth the extra effort...I would post some pics but my workshop is under renovation at the moment and all my stuff is packed up in moving boxes...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

On 1. Dec 2019, at 02:13, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


Your prints look goo, what "Z' setting do you use?

I was looking at an Elegoo Mars resin printer, but I just "inherited" a Bibo FDM printer.  I'll play with that for a while before going resin.  Bibo specs say that the Z can be 0.05 mm, same as the Elegoo, so we'll see how fine it can print.

Right now I'm using SketchUp for the 3D design but just downloaded Fusion 360.

Mike Conder

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 3:23 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?

Re: Frame Windows

Mike Conder
 

Your prints look goo, what "Z' setting do you use?

I was looking at an Elegoo Mars resin printer, but I just "inherited" a Bibo FDM printer.  I'll play with that for a while before going resin.  Bibo specs say that the Z can be 0.05 mm, same as the Elegoo, so we'll see how fine it can print.

Right now I'm using SketchUp for the 3D design but just downloaded Fusion 360.

Mike Conder


On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 3:23 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?

Re: MDC 3 Truck shay

Gary Crawford
 

Still working the rebuild, up to and including the nwsl gear sets, currently building the electrical transfer through the trucks for the motors and possible dcc. It's a pain, but here I go, NWSL provided, I am going to get the kit done, regardless. Thank you, MDC, the kit is a good one, looking forward for more? 


On Sat, Nov 30, 2019, 12:44 Scott <repairman87@...> wrote:
I got an MDC HOn3 3 Truck Shay kit off of Ebay that I would like to get going on.  I have read many a horror story on them already, but I really want to build one for old times sake.  This kit is a newer kit with the white gears on the axles instead of the black ones.  Since it has the newer axle gears would it be worth it to buy the NWSL regear kit for it?  I am going to get the metal bull gear and the drive lines for sure.  While the motor is open frame it is surprisingly quiet so will probably go with that.  It will be Sound decoder equipped eventually.  There are complete replacment trucks on EBay that are pretty tempting too.  Has anybody happened to tried them.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F193191522551

Thanks
Scott McDonald 

MDC 3 Truck shay

Scott
 

I got an MDC HOn3 3 Truck Shay kit off of Ebay that I would like to get going on.  I have read many a horror story on them already, but I really want to build one for old times sake.  This kit is a newer kit with the white gears on the axles instead of the black ones.  Since it has the newer axle gears would it be worth it to buy the NWSL regear kit for it?  I am going to get the metal bull gear and the drive lines for sure.  While the motor is open frame it is surprisingly quiet so will probably go with that.  It will be Sound decoder equipped eventually.  There are complete replacment trucks on EBay that are pretty tempting too.  Has anybody happened to tried them.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F193191522551

Thanks
Scott McDonald